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Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson (Read 5007 times)

remus

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Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 07, 2021, 08:28:40 am
This one seems to have gone under the radar. An old Dave Birkett project apparently, weighing in at 8c or so.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/

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#1 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 07, 2021, 08:49:16 am
Exciting! Is that the LGP corner next to Peppered Boursin?

Danny

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#2 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 07, 2021, 09:06:22 am
Done in May this year apparently. Post implies an article about it is in the pipeline.

Duncan campbell

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#3 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 07, 2021, 09:25:00 am
Be interesting to hear more about this. Sounds harder and bolder than lexicon from Franco’s iG post? But also sounds like Franco hasn’t really tried it properly

remus

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#4 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 07, 2021, 02:09:12 pm
This one seems to have gone under the radar. An old John Dunne project apparently, weighing in at 8c or so.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/

Correction.

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#5 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 09, 2021, 09:49:33 pm
Is the grade more valid when it's E10 to Craig M, compared to E11 for Gresh??

Asking for a friend of course.

Also when is this write-up coming?? Is it a FRCC print yearly journal exclusive??

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#6 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 10, 2021, 08:28:48 am
A few snippets and very different to Lexicon.

From what I’ve heard he did it with a small pre-placed wire and was hoping to do it placing the wire (but hasn’t yet) - so was initially holding off reporting - hence the delay.

The wire is the only bit of kit and is at about 7m and then there is just a few more metres climbing above it.

It sounds to be as much a highball as it is a route and required a lot of pads being carried in.

teestub

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#7 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 10, 2021, 09:06:32 am
Fair play carrying a bunch of pads there, looks like it’s up behind Pavey somewhere! Can’t imagine how many ‘funny’ comments you’d have to deal with on the Stickle Tarn path.

Adam Lincoln

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#8 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 10, 2021, 08:09:26 pm
I would imagine they were shuttled in as they have been left in situ at crag for quite a while.

teestub

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#9 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 10, 2021, 08:17:25 pm
I would imagine they were shuttled in as they have been left in situ at crag for quite a while.

He’s lucky that Tom Livingstone didn’t walk past! #cragswag

Adam Lincoln

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#10 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 10, 2021, 09:11:59 pm
I would imagine they were shuttled in as they have been left in situ at crag for quite a while.

He’s lucky that Tom Livingstone didn’t walk past! #cragswag

Pads don't go out of date….

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#12 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 11, 2021, 05:25:21 pm
Looks amazing for an insignificant 40' bit of rock tucked away around the right of Pavey Ark  :w00t:

DAVETHOMAS90

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#13 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 12, 2021, 04:25:09 am
Consistent with the requirements for successful ascents of the hardest of Lake District routes, "Craig had to be on top form mentally and physically but also tactically, using innovative techniques for the most marginal of gains in order to climb the project."  ;)

Some beautiful settings for these Lakes test pieces.
A fine effort.

Worth noting, and in reference to Neil G's route, a lot of the harder pitches in the Lakes are relatively short.

I'm going to say a few things. Pads; still not my thing - and not especially Craig's by the sounds of it (in terms of actually using them)  ;D Pre-placing the RP is what would be criticised on many other ascents - e.g. the question marks around routes like Rodney Mullen, before Sean re-climbed it. However, if it was a preplaced peg - which others would question - I wouldn't have questioned it.

Sounds bloody hard.

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#14 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 12, 2021, 06:42:49 am
Be interesting to see who this draws in terms of repeaters, quite hard to see how high it is as few if the photos show the landing and none show the pad set up at the landing. I wonder whether it will be one for a pad party rather than a lone tradster?

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#15 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 12, 2021, 09:09:51 am
Good lengthy write-up.

Interesting that he waiting until recently to report it because he still kept wanting to do it without pre-placed gear. Fair enough that it gets to the stage where it gets increasingly unfeasible and rather than sitting on the info for another season, it's sensible to put it out as a flawed but still very impressive FA that will maybe be improved on. Gresh get training for placing 1 RP in extremis.

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#16 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 12, 2021, 10:12:48 am
How does one even top rope something this steep without having anything to direct the rope with lower down?

Agree that it would be very interesting to know more about the landing and what pads were/could be used. There's photos of him falling from near the top which is hinted at briefly in the text but not much more than that.

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#17 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 12, 2021, 10:19:32 am
How does one even top rope something this steep without having anything to direct the rope with lower down?

Tensioned ground anchor?

Danny

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#18 Re: Hard Cheese, E10 to Craig Matheson
November 12, 2021, 10:51:21 am
Fantastic effort. Based on injuries sustained from the falls off this and Lexicon, armchair me would rather take my chances on the latter. These short and poorly protected routes are serious business.

More generally, my personal tastes very much lean towards boulders and shorter climbs like this. Obvious, attractive features, preferably with good moves. I think this is one reason why I prefer bouldering over other styles, and why routes like Dreamcatcher are at the top of my "if I was ever anywhere near good enough" list. Long, meandering and discontinuous things that are otherwise considered classic aren't my bag.

Hard Cheese looks to me like one of the best bits of hard climbing in the country. Very cool!

 

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