I feel it's a route that has an undeserved reputation for nastiness - compared to some of the upper tier it's fairly benign.
Anyone else in the late 30s/early 40s managed to gain strength without gaining too much beef?
Very busy this week with work, getting sorted for going on holiday.Mon: general bouldering session despite being pretty tired from a weekend of driving and partying... Managed a few new blacks and was feeling noticeably stronger than last few weeks.Gym after: Dips, face pulls, should ext rot.Tues-Friday pretty much nothing, few light hangs and pull ups.Choosing to actively eat more does seem to have helped in the power/strength stakes. It's going to be a tricky balance though as I've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish. Potentially very bad timing to try this just before a sport trip...Sat: warmed up then on sighted a couple of nice routes on ermita (6c felt path and the 6c+ a little more involved).Sun: GF on sighted her first 6b outside which was ace to watch and I did various onsights up to 7a. Not quite sure what to aim for this trip as life got in the road for any serious training in the run up.Got pointed at some potential onsight able 7cs but really not sure I'm on that form, but maybe quick projects would be fine.Oh, forgot to day - I've always massively struggled with Dips, maxing out at 8 reps. Can now do 12. Pull ups the same, always been relatively shit at about 10. Did 13 this week.I really do reckon I've been hindering strength gains the last 5 years by chasing an elusive light weight for me. I hit 73kg (maybe even 72kg) when I live in Chamonix and I was climbing loads, and it seemed like my good fighting weight, but thinking back, that happened back then through sheer amounts of exercise (big routes, being out 5 days a week etc.)so I was still eating loads.Anyone else in the late 30s/early 40s managed to gain strength without gaining too much beef? Reckon I'll need to cycle a bit to lose excess before a trip / project?
Sucked up to Sonia big style and got the nod to go to Chulilla so off on Friday for 10 days. Been twice before but no particular aims otter than a desire to tick some routes so if anyone can point me at any bangers up to 7c+ that I’ve not already done then I’d be grateful.
I've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish.
Quote from: Fultonius on November 08, 2021, 07:40:47 amI've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish. Am I right that you've been eating more just for a couple of weeks or so? If so, it's impossible to put on that much fat in that time. It'll be a combination of water weight and food weight (literally the weight of the extra food you've eaten). It could even be a little bit of muscle through hypertrophy from your training! Weight is a really poor metric. Far more important is how you feel, and it sounds like you should be focusing on the strength endurance gains you've made!
T: AeroCap @ AW - 3 x 4 routes @ 4 grades under my best recent onsight so F6b(ish)...
Climbed three times in 10 days, are you kidding?
In any case working strength in the right way shouldn't add much beef, if at all.
Sounds like you're calling me horribly unfit DD...:-D
Might be just the difference between "absolute max" and "regular indoor max", e.g. there's 3-4 grades difference there for me. 4 grades off my all-time outdoor PB onsight would be way too hard for aerocap, 4 grades off my regular indoor max onsight would be about right...
People get quite hung up on the intensity of aero cap. A good way of judging this is "how close am I to failure?". Aerocap should never get close to failure. IMO, each rep should finish at around the "I'd really like to stop now" point.BTW, if you are exercising in the "I can do this all day" regime, that's ARC, not aero cap. I'm not sure how useful ARC is; I've not seen any good studies and my personal experience is not positive.
Late entry...M - restTu - Cliff. Third session on Keelhaul; tried it about a year ago and didn't manage one of the moves. Frustratingly still no dice. Everyone else seems to keep their heel/toe cam in for the move, but it just slides out every time for me. Linked into it from the start at least, and nearly linked to the top from after it. Also tried to repeat The Keel and again couldn't quite put it together. Finished off with a quick circuit of the low 7s up around Demon Wall. Picked up a bit of a tweaky knuckle at some point on right middle finger. W - restTh - Caley for Ben's Groove Sit session #17 this year, #26 overall. Bit of a disappointment really, last session a couple of weeks ago was incredibly promising, but despite what looked on paper to be great conditions it just wasn't; sliding all over the place on holds. However, it was still productive as I came up with new beta for the crux section, which works incredibly well. Climbed this consistently. On my best go from the start I got to the double right hand slap but hadn't placed my heel hook correctly and it spat me off. F - restSa - short session, fingerboard first; 3x 10s half crimp 26mm edge +40kg, 2.5min rests. Then tried 3 projects on the board; had my best ever go on one of them and did okay on the others. Su - Caley. Ben's. Given training the day before I set myself the goal of just getting it consistent from 3 hand moves in. Definitely mission accomplished. Linked to the top twice in a row, plus to the lip (i.e. with 2 tricky moves left to do) another 5/6 times before just dropping. I actually didn't feel too tired so did have a couple of goes from the start which didn't really come to anything. Conditions were easily best at the end of the day when I was already tired and skin was thin! Really pleased with this session though, just very consistent on that link and feel like I just need to execute the first 3 moves well and I'll have a great chance.
M - work, 12 hrsT - tired from all the long shifts, couldn't face the wall.W - TCA, can't really remember, think I started by attempting a bit of moonboard, but sacked it off and mostly did whitesT - UCR, circuits 6a+, 3 x 10 mins on/off on, thought I was doing aero cap, but apparently it's ARC (and probably pointless).F - TCA, pretty much no memory of what I did. Maybe tried some blues? Then work nights, 12 hrsS - work nights, 12 hrsS - work nights, 12 hrs
Sounds like you're pretty close mate, keep at it - psyched to see the progress!