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Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021 (Read 5060 times)

shark

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Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 07, 2021, 12:13:11 pm
11.4-6 average 159.6 down 0.4lbs

M. Cold, windy and raining with the rain blowing in. Savage. Nick persuaded me to go on C N’A. First go on AM headwall did well managing move 7-12 then from Prow hole moves 1 - 9 including getting my left foot across and feeling loads better on move 4 (the long lock) than last week. Second tie in got through Push Up without drama but the end of the traverse below the Revelatins belay was wet from the rain blowing in so dogged to the Prow Hole. Managed to do moves 1-8 of the headwall including the clip then went from there to falling off going over the Crucixion bulge. Some holds were wet so dogged to belay. Decent session all things considered.

T

W

T Home FB warmup. Autumn colours. Tor with Karl. Cold, still, fresh. Put draws in Cross N’Angry. Second tie in left hand fired off sidepull on crux of Push Up as reaching for gaston over bulge. Led from top of Push Up to Prow hole and clipped in. From there got past clip on AM headwall and fell when right hand fired off the gaston as reaching for pinch. Clipped in then went from there to reaching for boss on Crucixion crux. Then there to top. Felt busted and old back at ground level but had a go at top roping Tin Of taking just one fall at crux.

F. Home Fb warmup. Stunning morning driving over the tops but Tor was in low cloud with some light drizzle. Went on Bens. Throw move took a few attempts but when I got it I managed to climb through to doing the kick to the niche. Then did it from there to the top at first attempt. And after did start into throw at first attempt. So in summary did the whole thing in three sections. Delighted with that second day on and a marked improvement on previous couple of weeks.

S

S

Sucked up to Sonia big style and got the nod to go to Chulilla so off on Friday for 10 days. Been twice before but no particular aims otter than a desire to tick some routes so if anyone can point me at any bangers up to 7c+ that I’ve not already done then I’d be grateful.

Pleased with performance this week at the Tor which I’ve been treating as training. Doing Bens Without in 3 sections on my second day on was encouraging. Did it in overlapping halves on different sessions last winter from start to falling on kick for niche and from holding pocket and crimp to the end so looking forward to trying to do those links again when I get back from Chulilla.
« Last Edit: November 07, 2021, 12:30:33 pm by shark »

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 07, 2021, 08:00:31 pm
Tu - Took the day off work.
Malham. The sacred place. Warmed up on Consenting then ascended to the hallowed hall. Satan's streaks were upon the rock but, mercifully, the Main Overhang was largely unaffected. Old man Crozzle Pock was dry. Put the clips in and dried a couple of footholds. Was feeling feisty so lowered down and rested a little before going up for a burn. A couple of sections took slightly longer than expected due to having to chalk after using a very slightly moist tufa slot. Began the crux rockover and tickled the sidepull but immediately greased off. Absolution would not be granted so easily.
Belayed Josh and I ruminated on my fate. First go is very often the best go I'll get as my recovery ability is rather poor. Asked Josh to increase the extension on the mid-crux clip to get it from the flake.
Then, a visitation. James and Jack Ibbertson arrived while out on pilgrimage. The hour's rest was up and the sun shone bright. We cloud watched, trying to second guess when shade may appear and stick around. The pilgrims grew restless - they had come to the hallowed hall to See. When one climbs at Malham, one seeks their destiny. Destiny cannot be controlled, it is a river into which one leaps to see where it will take them. Despite the sun-drenched rock, I leapt.
The lower wall went smoothly and moving to The Banana was not hindered excessively by the giga-draw. The crux rockover felt good and I clutched the sidepull, wobbled my toe into the gaston pock, and set up for the final flattyslap. The flatty was attained, matched, and final easy moves to megajugs were dispatched. Salvation.
To be in that place and in that time, with the world perched on the fulcrum twixt Lime and Grit. It was truly divine.

Th - enjoyable session on the MallochBoard. After he cruised some tricky things on my board I was nervous, but I feel I put in a decent showing.

Su - Caley in the afternoon with the Orc Lord. Wobbled up most of MBKC Arete but was thwarted by a gungy top. Moved to Crag and did The Prow which I hadn't done before. Then on to Juha's Arete. Thought this might be excessively lanky so the idea was to see if I could make the distance. It will go, I think. Down to Flapjack Traverse which is another low 7 I haven't done before. A traverse which transcends its traversity. Really good moves on some lovely features - well worthwhile (and a complete path at the grade).

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#2 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 07, 2021, 10:02:31 pm
nice work Will

moose

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#3 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 07, 2021, 10:25:01 pm
Aye, good work Will. I'm really happy for you... and a little bit envious.....Main Overhang is unfinished business I feel have with Malham, During Spring a couple of years ago, I fell on the move to the thin side-pull a few times, then it got wet... and then warm... and then Covid19 happened and I haven't climbed a route since (except for the Mandela Training Traverse!).  I feel it's a route that has an undeserved reputation for nastiness - compared to some of the upper tier it's fairly benign.

Liamhutch89

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#4 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 07, 2021, 10:33:51 pm
M - max hangs and limit board sesh

T - rings + other general strength training

T - Caley with lamps. Went straight to vicious streak for a first proper go at it (previously had half an hour in summer). Felt tired and ended up bashing my knee really hard when falling off. Lost psych and decided to go home early, but for some reason drove to Shipley instead to see how red baron roof felt. Still felt tired and not psyched, but at least the cut loose move felt ridiculously easy compared to last year, like I only needed 50% squeeze. Went home after just half an hour and was in bed before 9pm. Expected to wake up ill but was fine in the morning.

S - board, max hangs. Strained a hip abductor in the evening after trying to brute force my way through a 2 month plateau on side splits (i train mobility nearly every day so don't usually bother to record it here). Doesn't feel too bad but might need to go easy on left heel hooks for a while.


Looks like a bad week on paper but it hasn't felt bad really. Continuing to make steady finger strength gains which usually has a direct correlation with me performing better on rock.

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 07, 2021, 10:46:32 pm
I feel it's a route that has an undeserved reputation for nastiness - compared to some of the upper tier it's fairly benign.

Upstairs has a reputation for sharp holds and unpleasantness which isn't really borne out on all the routes. It does have a particular season, drawing the sun for most of the day, and isn't a place to be in poor conditions. However, Main Overhang is basically seep proof, has no uncomfortable holds (two possible exceptions being the tufa gaston and the next hold, old man Crozzle Pock. Tufa gaston is fine really as you're in balance when you move your hand to it so can arrange your fingers to nestle neatly in the tufa; Crozzle Pock is only very slightly sharp).

The climbing on it is very good and, I would imagine, very steady at the grade if you've got a good sequence (some people go to the Banana with their right hand and I've no idea how that works). It's a quick sequence to learn and if it were better known I expect it would be a popular first 8a, especially with boulder botherers.

It can't be three stars because the hard climbing is confined to the first two thirds of the route, but it's got some serious history behind it (Extreme Rock tick; second proper sport route on the crag after New Dawn and before Free and Easy?) and the easy finish is a far grander thing than a chain stuck in the middle of nowhere. I mean, you finish on a ledge that you can sit on. It's the kind of perch that makes your lips involuntarily form the word "Safe!". A logical finish is a much underrated feature in a sport climb.

It's a real beauty.

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#6 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 07, 2021, 10:50:58 pm
Monday rest

Tuesday
School after work

Splat Board traverses x3

10s hangs
35mm x2
30mm x2
25mm x2
20mm x2

4x5 feet on double Campus pulls

Moonboard Warm Up Circuit

Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
True 6a+. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
The Warm Up Problem. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
Big Sale. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
The Limit 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
Échauffement. 6a+. ❌
Try Give them Crumbs ❌

4min rest

Boulder Triples 6 sets of 3 problems
4min rest between sets.
10s between problems (45s to do the problem)
/ the Warm Up Problem/ LapTop  /  The Limit
✅✅✅ much harder on this timing
✅✅✅ extended the rest to 20s
✅✅✅
✅❌✅ getting cramps in my calves
✅✅❌
✅✅❌
✅❌❌


Stopped here. Felt done.

Wednesday: 45min Peloton ride

Thursday :
Finger board Lactate Curve Test. 8 sets of 7:3 repeaters til failure. 1:1 work rest ratio


Friday:

Raced out to Horseshoe Quarry and dropped a rope down a 6c to find one for the year goal. I’m going to do it more often. The main wall is so easy to set up a line on many routes. Beats climbing on plastic
It was a good route, Private Prosecution, 6c. Interesting moves and not straight forward. Couldn’t work out the groove section though
Climbed on it for and hour and a bit then came back home. It was drizzling a bit. Not the best conditions.
There’s a lot of routes in the 6c to 6c+ range on that wall.

Saturday: School session

Dawn session at the School.
Not feeling like doing a high intensive project session. So I decided to clock in some mileage. Yes the Beta timer function on the Moonboard app.
Set out 8 problems into a list and split in to two groups of 4. That equalled 1 set. Set 30s to do each problem with 3min rests.

Splat Board traverses
10s hangs
35mm x2
30mm x2
25mm x4
Double Campus Pulls

Mileage Circuit.
3min rests between problems
Laptop
True 6a+
Warm Up Problem
Big Sale ❌
Échauffement ❌
Do it for the Scrunch
Tepid
The Limit
True 6a+
Warm Up Problem
Big Sale
Laptop
Échauffement ❌
Do it for the Scrunch
Tepid
The Limit
True 6a+
Warm Up Problem
Big Sale
Laptop
Échauffement ❌
Do it for the Scrunch
Tepid
The Limit

Really enjoyed this session. Came away with a grin after not feeling that positive at the start.

Sunday

Finished the evening with a 30min peloton ride.




Nibile

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#7 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 07:23:39 am
Power Club

Mon - jogging, 35' for the first time in probably 25 years. The heavens opened after 7'. Glorious.
Tue - gym 20' session.
Wed - board climbing. Yay!
Thu - gym 20' session.
Fri - board climbing.
Sat - boxing bag, weights.
Sun - loaded carries like this: farmer's 90 kg 1' + shoulder 50 kg 20" all x9. Brilliant session, one to remember.
Climbed three times in 10 days, are you kidding?

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#8 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 07:40:47 am
Very busy this week with work, getting sorted for going on holiday.

Mon: general bouldering session despite being pretty tired from a weekend of driving and partying... Managed a few new blacks and was feeling noticeably stronger than last few weeks.
Gym after: Dips, face pulls, should ext rot.

Tues-Friday pretty much nothing, few light hangs and pull ups.

Choosing to actively eat more does seem to have helped in the power/strength stakes. It's going to be a tricky balance though as I've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish. Potentially very bad timing to try this just before a sport trip...

Sat: warmed up then on sighted a couple of nice routes on ermita (6c felt path and the 6c+ a little more involved).
Sun: GF on sighted her first 6b outside which was ace to watch and I did various onsights up to 7a. Not quite sure what to aim for this trip as life got in the road for any serious training in the run up.

Got pointed at some potential onsight able 7cs but really not sure I'm on that form, but maybe quick projects would be fine.

Oh, forgot to day - I've always massively struggled with Dips, maxing out at 8 reps. Can now do 12. Pull ups the same, always been relatively shit at about 10. Did 13 this week.

I really do reckon I've been hindering strength gains the last 5 years by chasing an elusive light weight for me. I hit 73kg (maybe even 72kg) when I live in Chamonix and I was climbing loads, and it seemed like my good fighting weight, but thinking back, that happened back then through sheer amounts of exercise (big routes, being out 5 days a week etc.)so I was still eating loads.

Anyone else in the late 30s/early 40s managed to gain strength without gaining too much beef? Reckon I'll need to cycle a bit to lose excess before a trip / project?
« Last Edit: November 08, 2021, 08:05:36 am by Fultonius »

Nibile

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#9 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 08:51:07 am
Anyone else in the late 30s/early 40s managed to gain strength without gaining too much beef?
I did, but can't recall exactly how it happened, besides doing lots of bouldering on very steep walls, and doing lots of core training with straight arms (front levers, front lever pulls, etc.). I also threw in some explosive lifting.
In any case working strength in the right way shouldn't add much beef, if at all.

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#10 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 08:58:35 am

Well done Will.

Also trying the ‘train heavy’ approach!

M - Squats (double, single leg, frog). Shoulder conditioning (supported handstands, side planks, extension in prone, pull-up bar lock-offs). Fingerboard: Both arms - 4 finger half crimp, no added weight; Left arm only - 3 finger drag and 4 finger half crimp, max. hangs with bathroom scales.
T - Squats. Walked 10km.
W - Walked 5km.
T - Fingerboard: 4 finger half crimp and 3 finger drag with no added weight. Squats.
F - Shoulder conditioning. Squats. Walked to the West End to donate blood but was told I couldn’t as I was slightly haemoglobin deficient! (134g/l when it should have been 135!). Bought 5kg of raw liver on the way home*
S - Walked 7km.
S - Fingerboard: one arm at a time 7s on /7s off at 30kg for 90-120s with 90-120s rest x 6 sets. ‘Power-endurance’. Proof-of-concept; at this stage of the year I probably should be either doing something shorter and harder or longer and easier. Walked 10km.


A week of no climbing of any kind. This is not good for my mood, so will try to get to a wall during the day this week.

Duncan Disorderly

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#11 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 09:43:24 am
Effort Will... The name of the week it seems!

Also in the train heavy club - must ditch the red wine and get out on the bike more!

M: Fingerboard Sesh - Finally got the motivation together... Repeaters and max hangs to failure (20mm no added weight)
T: AeroCap @ AW - 3 x 4 routes @ 4 grades under my best recent onsight so F6b(ish)...
W: Shoulders and rest.
T: Bouldering @ AW - 10 x Easy problems (V1-V3),10 mins rest. 10 x Mid Grade (flashable - V3 - V5) problems, 10 mins rest. 5 x harder problems (1 - 5 attempts - V5 - V7) 15 mins rest. 35 mins of limit bouldering on 45 board: 1-5 move max, 10 mins rest. 10 mins or core on board: good hold and moving feet around to failure. Light stretching and circuits to cool down... Trashed!
F: Rest (drink too much)
S: Rest (hungover)
S: Redpoint session @ AW - Warmup then burn on 7a+ that's eluded me... Was tired and still feeling the after effects of Friday so didn't do it (forgot a crucial foot plcement) but got pumped out of my mind working it and linked from below crux to top when completely boxed ( :shrug:)....

Good week... Felt like actual training rather than junk mileage (thanks Lattice for giving the last year of my climbing life an actual term  :whistle:)...

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#12 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 09:45:59 am
Very busy this week with work, getting sorted for going on holiday.

Mon: general bouldering session despite being pretty tired from a weekend of driving and partying... Managed a few new blacks and was feeling noticeably stronger than last few weeks.
Gym after: Dips, face pulls, should ext rot.

Tues-Friday pretty much nothing, few light hangs and pull ups.

Choosing to actively eat more does seem to have helped in the power/strength stakes. It's going to be a tricky balance though as I've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish. Potentially very bad timing to try this just before a sport trip...

Sat: warmed up then on sighted a couple of nice routes on ermita (6c felt path and the 6c+ a little more involved).
Sun: GF on sighted her first 6b outside which was ace to watch and I did various onsights up to 7a. Not quite sure what to aim for this trip as life got in the road for any serious training in the run up.

Got pointed at some potential onsight able 7cs but really not sure I'm on that form, but maybe quick projects would be fine.

Oh, forgot to day - I've always massively struggled with Dips, maxing out at 8 reps. Can now do 12. Pull ups the same, always been relatively shit at about 10. Did 13 this week.

I really do reckon I've been hindering strength gains the last 5 years by chasing an elusive light weight for me. I hit 73kg (maybe even 72kg) when I live in Chamonix and I was climbing loads, and it seemed like my good fighting weight, but thinking back, that happened back then through sheer amounts of exercise (big routes, being out 5 days a week etc.)so I was still eating loads.

Anyone else in the late 30s/early 40s managed to gain strength without gaining too much beef? Reckon I'll need to cycle a bit to lose excess before a trip / project?

I'm still early 30's but the age-old myth that the metabolism 'slows down' after 30 has been shown to be bollocks (https://research.brighton.ac.uk/en/publications/daily-energy-expenditure-through-the-human-life-course). It doesn't decline significantly until a person is in their 60's. People get fat after 30 because they were always getting fat, but a small amount per year isn't noticeable until it's accumulated to 10kg+ over 10 years.

I'm not a dietician and have no relevant credentials, but have had a keen interest in diet for a long time and been experimenting continually since I were 17. Initially this was for boxing and other martial arts, weightlifting and now climbing (losing the excess beef initially but I've been quite stable for a few years now). I'm now at a place where I feel healthy both physically and mentally.

It should come at no surprise to anyone that gaining or losing weight quickly is usually not a good idea. 4kg gained over a short period is quite a lot, and it's certainly not all lean muscle gain (which you'd be lucky to max out at 0.5kg per month), but it's not uncommon to gain weight quickly after being in a deficit as your body has been deprived and clings on to glycogen and water. If your weight continues to rise at the same rate then i'd suggest you are eating more than necessary for optimal strength gain, but if it stays relatively stable after the initial rise, then you are about right and it shows just how depleted you were before!

Would you perform better on your upcoming trip if you were to diet? Maybe, but think long term. Looking at what they do in other sports, a strength block would ideally run for circa 6 months or more to actually make some real gains. Yoyo dieting gets you nowhere. You should be able to gain strength while maintaining weight, or more optimally in a very small energy surplus, and by small this means a surplus where you gain less than 0.5kg per month. When it finally comes to losing any excess weight to hit a peak, the focus should be maintaining strength in order to improve power/weight, which again means not doing anything quickly. I think it's generally accepted that around 0.5kg per week is ideal for protein sparing.

Sorry if this is teaching you to suck eggs. Hopefully useful for someone.

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#13 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 09:47:05 am
M - Drive back from Arco

T - Shoulder stability on the bar (left arm ok, rotating on right arm). One arm hangs on big holds. Campus progressions (felt pretty good after a few weeks off). One arm hangs BM2000 lower middle edge (Not the longest but probably the best form ever). Assisted one arm hangs (-10kg) same edge. Not so good for some reason. Weight - over head shoulder press (15kg), bench press (up to 40kg) and rotator cuff exercises with pulley weight.

W - Shoulder stability and core, rotator cuff and elbow rehab weights. Hamstring stretches and exercises.

T - Trail running 17km 548m.

F - Rest

S - Schleierwasserfall. We ended up in a 3 and the air was bitterly cold which meant it was hard to stay warm. Made worse by one of the 3 having not climbed routes for a year and only getting halfway up various climbs and leaving draws in various routes across the crag! Warmed up on a 7b/+ I had done before. Was hard at first as I was cold and my boot rubber was wooden. However, the rock was like velcro. The top crux has never felt so easy. Later tried a really fun 8a with a cool prow and then some heel above head action. First RP I froze out and second RP I punted the foot sequence. Think this has been my worst year for not being clinical and finishing routes. I now have so many 8a/+s scattered around that I somehow punted in a session. Finished by climbing/down climbing a wet chimney in the dark to retrieve quickdraws!

S - Was meant to do the first ski tour of the year in the morning but felt tired and couldn't be bothered joining. Went to the wall later to do some bouldering and routes. Bouldering was terrible. Did a steep 7b route that felt tough as my shoulders felt tired and my elbow tendon wasn't happy. Did a 7c onsight on the vert and then failed on another 7c. Tried the moves on 8a+ but it was desperate. Someone fell and hit their wrist/hand on a big hold and I think one of their bones burst through the skin. It was a blood bath and pretty grim but the guy seemed ok and the ambulance arrived in around 10 minutes. Finished with bench press up to 50kg and rotator cuff exercises on the weighted pulley.         

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#14 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 09:50:41 am
Sucked up to Sonia big style and got the nod to go to Chulilla so off on Friday for 10 days. Been twice before but no particular aims otter than a desire to tick some routes so if anyone can point me at any bangers up to 7c+ that I’ve not already done then I’d be grateful.

The obvious ones that I have in my logbook that are not in yours are Hipotermia (7c), Nibelungalos (7c), Moon Safari (7c+) and Tequila Sunrise (7c+/8a). All amazing classics if I remember correctly!

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#15 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 09:51:45 am
Nice one, Will! Hadn’t realised that MO was an 8a the other day!

Quiet week for me again. Mainly doing some density pulls each day for my finger.

M. 4km run around the woods with the dog then Acro Yoga

T.

W. 10km run around the mood with the dog. Knee was, and still is, a bit sore so going to shorten the runs a bit I think.

T. Board session at mine with Will. First time I’d tried properly on it since injuring my finger 3 weeks previous. Started badly with feet and hands pinging off everything. Skin felt quite glassy - pinging off warm-ups I’ve never fallen off before. Managed the crux’s on a lofty of my old problems at least, but not sure I actually linked any in full. Really encouraging to feel like I can start to try harder again though - finger was a bit more tender than normal the next day but think it should be okay for 2 climbs a week at the moment. Will set a 3 move problem which I didn’t manage but keen to try again soon.

F. Looking after the dog with the fireworks being on - as soon as they started we went to the park and played ball. I figured that full-immersion would be the best tactic. He didn’t care about them which meant by the time we got home he was used to the noise - YYFY - and we could watch a film in peace.

S. Dinner/night at friends place. Not much sleep but really nice to see them.

S. 10km walk around Pendle Hill and my first Roast Dinner in ages after.

Nice week overall. Pleased with how things went with the board session given the recent injury and keen to start having a few a week again.

A special mention to Mr Hunt too who pissed my board problems. What a bastard. I was hoping he’d find it really hard after I’d found some of his board projects easy, but they looked like paths. Funny how we found the contrasting styles so different. Maybe it’s because he crimps and I drag a lot which isn’t ideal on flat edges on a 25 degree board…

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#16 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 10:16:07 am
Goals: Recover bicep tendon, outdoor climbing in the Spring
Mon - Sun: daily rehab exercises including theraband and press-up work.

Mon. Fingerboard session - 30 mins unstructured hanging. Mix of slow pullups with feet on and deadhangs. Confidence is building, psyche is building, steady as she goes...

Thurs. Fingerboard session - c.1 hour. Warmed up slowly and then had a go at one of my previous training staples - attempt to hang every hold on the setup for 20s, 2 min rest time. Current setup has a moon fingerboard, 23 mm and 18 mm campus rungs, 6 - 10 mm micros. Failed on the 10mms and below.

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#17 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 01:07:27 pm
I've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish.

Am I right that you've been eating more just for a couple of weeks or so?

If so, it's impossible to put on that much fat in that time. It'll be a combination of water weight and food weight (literally the weight of the extra food you've eaten). It could even be a little bit of muscle through hypertrophy from your training!

Weight is a really poor metric. Far more important is how you feel, and it sounds like you should be focusing on the strength endurance gains you've made!

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#18 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 01:43:51 pm
Missed power club for a few weeks as I've been low in psyche but not wanting to moan. That's turned around a bit this last week though!

Monday - had an indoor session

Tuesday - rested

Wednesday - rested as was just feeling toss and wanted a good session

Thursday - not a great session. Felt a bit bummed out

Friday - had a potter at Burbage South for some mileage

Saturday - did Conan the Librarian sans the top (got psyched out) which I was nonetheless very pleased about as I've always struggled on it! Will go back and do the traverse properly at some point but yeah. Very happy. Then went and did the Easier Side 6B at Secret Garden, went in a couple of goes, bit stiff for 6B? Nonetheless, then hopped on Beach Ball 7A and managed to get to the final couple of slopers with the right hand and failed to get the left up. It started raining then, but dead positive that'll go soon enough :)

Sunday - had a session at Stanton. First things first... Appliance Friction! Last time I tried that a year ago it was my second time outdoors ever or something and I couldn't get past the first move in like 40-50 goes, totally shut down. This time did it to the top in about 10 goes. Dead pleased, really really happy with that.

Then did the stand of Bumlog Millionaire, so the technical slap from the rail that gets 6C. Was pleased as I had struggled with the move last time. Annoyingly I then did it from the knee bar to the top but then couldn't do it from the sit as the knee bar wouldn't stick. Should also go soon though; when I can get the knee to stick from the bottom the top should fall soon enough.

Basically a weekend of translating work on technical moves into actually overcoming some weaknesses I.e smearing, technical deadpoints and slaps etc. Very pleased. Extremely psyche to get back on the projects soon enough  :)

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#19 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 02:54:47 pm
M: G1. Training phase 2, week 8, session 1. Warmed up on boulders up to V6/7. Small edges 9mm 7/53 *4sets. Brutally painful. Campus 1-3-Max, 1-4-Max, 1-Max *2sets. 28 mins limit bouldering on kilterboard trying 7B+ and 7C boulders - so close to sending a 7B+. Campus touches on small rungs 1-3-1 * 6sets (3 each side). Some failure. FInished cooling down on KB V5->V4->V3

T: G1. Deadlift up to 225lb. Squats up to 165lb X5 *5sets. Bench up to 185lb. GHD back extension.

W: StoneSummit, Atlanta. Warmed up up to V6. Campus 1-3-Max, 1-4-Max, 1-Max *2sets. Volume at V5 - V7 level across multiple angles

S: Satellites, Flatirons. Went to look at Flesh Fest, proud high V9 arete/prow. Couldn't quite get crux - weird movement. Did the V6 stand 3rd go. Went to try Captain Hook V9 and slowly worked out all the moves, almost did it in two parts - v psyched to return!

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#20 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 03:47:46 pm
I've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish.

Am I right that you've been eating more just for a couple of weeks or so?

If so, it's impossible to put on that much fat in that time. It'll be a combination of water weight and food weight (literally the weight of the extra food you've eaten). It could even be a little bit of muscle through hypertrophy from your training!

Weight is a really poor metric. Far more important is how you feel, and it sounds like you should be focusing on the strength endurance gains you've made!

Yeah, I'm generally happy just cautious of swinging too far the other way.

I'm sure I read somewhere you can put on 2kg just from shifting from a low carb to a high carb diet, purely fram the extra amount of water and glycogen in your system. I've probably out on 0.5kg muscle, 1kg of fat and about 2.5kg water/food/  :shit:

I've stabilised now I think, but I'm now in Spain for 2 weeks, so I'll check in after that.


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#21 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 04:50:40 pm
T: AeroCap @ AW - 3 x 4 routes @ 4 grades under my best recent onsight so F6b(ish)...

This seems a bit hard for aero cap as I understand it, were you given the 4 grade difference by a coach? I thought you weren't supposed to get pumped on aero cap, I do it at least a number grade below my onsight level. Am I doing it wrong or am I just horribly unfit?

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#22 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 05:47:50 pm
The 4 grade thing was given to me by Tom @ Lattice (pre-lattice) about 10 years ago so I've just gone with that...

Maybe advances in training methodologies and/or further understanding of the energy systems involved mean that this is moving from AeroCap to AeroPow or some other acronym (???) but IIRC when I was doing it weekly my ability to recover between sequences of harder climbing was better than it's ever been so it seemed like a good aspect to train...

I've also been doing a lot of volume at around F6b and don't find that I'm pumped if I'm moving well doing 4 roues of that grade... However if I do find myself starting to pump out I tend to drop a grade or two for the next route, usually does the trick....

TBH it's all a bit of guesswork right now and I should probably speak to somebody who knows their onions  ;)

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#23 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 08, 2021, 06:28:07 pm
Sounds like you're calling me horribly unfit DD...

:-D

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#24 Re: Power Club 607 1-7 Nov 2021
November 09, 2021, 09:45:48 am
Good effort Will, and the write up!
(and no seepage with not too grim holds has put it on the maybe future list)

Climbed three times in 10 days, are you kidding?
Ha, you feeling alright nibs?

In any case working strength in the right way shouldn't add much beef, if at all.
Question, can you, or anyone I guess, expand on this?
I've been taking it as a given that I'll be putting on muscle mass as I get stronger.

@Fultonius
Not directly answering the question but Tom Herbert (Aidan's nutrition coach) talks about seeing good results from helping people eat more (and macros/food quality etc). They put on a few kgs but then see better strength and performance gains over time even if there's an initial dip.
While I'm coming from a different place than you (ie.obvious weight to lose) I'd been struggling to take off the excess, decided to experiment and am now steadily losing the excess while actually eating more than I have in the past (in simple terms, macros/quality etc)
edit: and to qualify Liamhutch and Bradders are both talking way more knowledgeably than me, just what I've listened to, understood and tried with myself.

 

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