MTG: Be ready to clear unfinished sport projects including Unleashing and Why Me in the spring. And trad, especially mountain and sea cliff trad...T: Quick evening board session. On a whim tried the problem on a minute I'd read about elsewhere on here, got 25 minutes in before arms/fingers gave in, satisfying.Need some new holds and a reset.Hip flexibility/strengtheningW: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session.
W: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session. Resisted the urge to post asking for new hobbies
Looked at Fairies Chest and Deer Gallows. Some cool looking problems but a dead sheep under the one I’d be most keen for…
General goals: stay injury free, mT: Quick evening board session. On a whim tried the problem on a minute I'd read about elsewhere on here, got 25 minutes in before arms/fingers gave in, satisfying.[...]W: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session. Resisted the urge to post asking for new hobbies
Quote from: iain on November 01, 2021, 09:11:25 amW: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session. Resisted the urge to post asking for new hobbies Haha! Quote from: James Malloch on November 01, 2021, 12:04:26 pmLooked at Fairies Chest and Deer Gallows. Some cool looking problems but a dead sheep under the one I’d be most keen for…Which one out of interest?
I think doing problems 'on the minute' for an hour is good mid-grade trad. training. This is at a commercial wall where you can bash off circuits at a trad. angle. I'm guessing the level of difficult is way below what you're doing.
I’d like to increase the training volume as I have very little in the tank for one day redpointing: there is no second or third go. Unfortunately this seems to result in joints complaining. I need to be more patient with the rate of progression which is tricky when training is all I can do at the moment.
Cold water swimming is v good for reducing the inflammation, though I don't know if I'll be able to stomach it in the winter! You may be more hardcore...
pretty sure you can train some aspects of power endurance (if I'm so pumped I've got pins and needles then surely it's doing something )
I get pins and needles in my legs if I sit on the toilet too long. Never knew I was training!
When I was down south and almost all my training was fingerboard based I found assisted multi-minute repeaters really helpful for recovering from efforts and general volume on climbing days eg. I did 4-5 minutes of 7/3 to nearly failure (with chalking up breaks), rest for 2-3 the set time, 3 sets, lowering the intesity to get the time.If the joints can handle it, way lower intensity than max hangs and a proper forearm burn.
Do they work? I'm pretty sure it's not as good as normal training, but also pretty sure it's significantly better than nothing - so useful tools to have in your arsenal if you're prone to being injured a lot...
W: Density pickups up to 40lb. G1. Squats up to 165lb X5 *5sets. Deadlift 205lb X3 *3sets. GHD back extension X7 *3sets
Quote from: Coops_13 on November 01, 2021, 01:32:15 pmW: Density pickups up to 40lb. G1. Squats up to 165lb X5 *5sets. Deadlift 205lb X3 *3sets. GHD back extension X7 *3setsWhat are density pickups?