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Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021 (Read 3033 times)

shark

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Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 24, 2021, 07:57:07 pm
11.4-7 up 0.4lbs

M. AM Home warm up. Tor with Nick . Damp air, still, felt warmish but holds ok. Up to AM headwall in new Otakis. They felt clumpy but worse still my strength was down. Clearly my light session on the Board the previous afternoon wasn’t light enough. Nearly didn’t tie in a second time but then did. Up to the top in sections wearing whites. After had a go on Bens but gave up after failing to do the the hardest move which I got at first attempt on Friday

T.

W. PM Rainy. Assignation with Duncan. Met at Horseshoe. Surprisingly it was both dry and deserted. Enjoyable session doing 5 routes including Megalithic Man and Legal Prosecution managing to fall off both.

T. AM Home FB warm up. Tor with Duncan.  Great conditions. Usual type of session on Cross NAngry but without Nick the superfast frigger to put the rope up for me. Two tie ins. No progress except for a refined foot sequence at the end of the Crucixion crux

F. AM Home FB warm up. Miserable rainy weather. Tor with Nick. I felt tired especially in my lats so decided just to belay. Nick had a dogging go up C N’A then pulled out all the stops and managed to redpoint it despite some wet holds and had to fight not to come off the jugs at the top. He’d done it before but that was pre-foothold breakage and still his only 8a+ to date. Impressive for someone who’d been laid low by long COVID for a lot of the summer.

S. PM. Systems Board. A few harder pulls then 2 sets of 20/10’s (aerocap)

S.

Had hoped to go to LPT next week but weather and tides not good and Paul bailed. Getting seriously hacked off with lack of tickage this year and so making plans to go to Spain for all of January and may get away for a shorter trip in Dec.

Liamhutch89

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#1 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 24, 2021, 08:43:08 pm
T - board warm ups, max hangs, then back to the board for a limit session that actually ended up not being limit as I did all my problems. Felt strong.

T - Ilkey RV. Spent around 3 hours trying Frank and basically just did the first move once  :wall: It's going to take some time to get moving well on grit.

S - warmed up on the board and was feeling off the pace so switched to hangs. Surprisingly hit new PB's.

S - city block indoor session with a non climber mate. Lots of flash level stuff. Needed the volume.

duncan

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#2 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 09:15:55 am

M - Fingerboard. hangs and pick-ups. Shoulder conditioning. Walked 10km
T - Squats. Shoulder conditioning. Flu’ vaccine. Felt a bit bleurgh after this, or was coming down with a cold.
W - Drove up through torrential rain to meet Simon at Horseshoe Quarry (new crag number 15). We both admitted we’d probably not have bothered were it not a first date. Everyone else must have thought similarly as the place was deserted. Fortunately it had dodged the showers and was almost bone dry. Warmed up on Director’s Cut (which we both agreed never to mention to anyone), Blade Runner and Hardcore! You Know The Score (which went rather more smoothly). Simon did Megalithic Man and I flashed it with a lot of beta and encouragement. Very good and I was pleasantly surprised by that main bit of Horseshoe. Low expectations always help!
T - The mighty Raven Tor (new crag number 16) with Simon. Good scenes. “Can’t believe you’ve never been here before etc.” Could be related to the warm-ups checking in at 7b+. My aim was to manage 3 moves on Tin Of, I think I managed four from the ground on my first go but didn't get any further ‘working’ it. Still cold-y and arms feeling it from previous days, so bagged it after not long. Peak was looking glorious as I drove home. 
F - Walked 10km. Had a chat about RCI training.
S - Weighted fingerboard hangs, weighted pull-ups. Squats. 
S - Squats. Walked 10km.

I'm a single parent again for a bit and the climbing year seems to be fizzling out. Time for some basic training and planning next year’s adventures.

andy popp

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#3 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 09:29:26 am
Good scenes. “Can’t believe you’ve never been here before etc.”

But I genuinely can't believe you'd never been before.

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#4 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 11:30:18 am
LTG: A new (to me) outdoor Font 7a


M: Move house pt. 2 - clearing out the dregs from the rental. Good full body workout lifting and shifting etc.
T: As Monday, inc. solo disassembly and removal from house of double bed plus mattress. Probably good grit offwidth training, proper suffering. LSD evening session, surprised to get through crux of something that had defeated me when fresher, so engaged siege ,mode and eventually ticked it off.
W: Back to work for a rest.
T: Nowt, started feeling sub-par in evening, terrible night's sleep.
F: Awoke with full-on head cold, deteriorated throughout day.
S: Felt terrible, nowt apart from a walk with kids.
S: As Sat






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#5 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 12:03:08 pm
M - Boardroom. Extended warm up on the downstairs boulders. The a bit of a haphazard circuit board session. Didn’t really have a plan/protocol in mind so just got pumped doing various reps of the 7a+/6c.

T - Boardroom. A couple of hours bouldering. Got stuck into some of the harder stuff, starting to remember how to move on plastic again.

W - Rest. 30 minute run.

T - Max hangs at +20kg in chisel grip. Board endurance, 6 x 90 secs on/off on jugs.

F - Boardroom. Didn't have much of a plan. Warm up on downstairs boulders. 20 minutes or so on the Moonboard, did a couple of 7A benchmarks and got close on a 7A+. Then 4 double laps of the circuit board 6c, 30 secs between laps, 5 mins between sets.

S - Rest.

S - Max hangs at +20-22kg in half crimp. Way down on previous scores, but I have found this before when upping the endurance training so not that worried.

Maybe the first week with no climbing outside since March? Off to Leonidio on Friday :bounce: (although my fingers will be crossed until I am actually clipping that first bolt)



iain

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#6 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 12:22:54 pm
After a number of years of health downs and ups I've found some serious love for climbing again over this year, particularly over the last few months and especially trad. It's brilliantly/terrifyingly addictive.
The bonus being I've hit a little peak of physical form (for bouldering anyway), I'm actually injury free and want to stay that way while improving again.

Over the last couple of months I've managed first visits to Sheigra, Craig y Forwyn, Castell Helen and Stoney. Stoney was long overdue given how close it is and was (mostly) good climbing with the polish feeling fine compared to some of the Peak sport crags. Also 2 visits back to High Tor and was a bit stunned when I worked out it had been over 6 years since I was last there.
I'm sure I've lost a few years somewhere.

General goals:  stay injury free, maintain prehab and daily finger care routines

Weight: 70kg at 170cm. This is down 2.5kg from the start of 2020 but is still very heavy for me. I'm not setting a goal weight as I've definitely been too light for where my body has wanted to be in the past but I'm aiming to keep slowly chipping away, at least until I've lost the obvious extra.


STG: as much rope climbing as possible before my fingers can't deal with the cold any more, especially more High Tor visits if the weather allows. Pick up some bouldering projects.

MTG: Be ready to clear unfinished sport projects including Unleashing and Why Me in the spring. And trad, especially mountain and sea cliff trad


M: Shoulder and hip flexibilty/strengthening. Finger care

T: Depot visit, first this year. Surprised myself by managing 7 or 8 of the purple circuit which I've struggled with in the past. Low gravity day

W: Shoulder and hip flexibilty/strengthening

T: Home board session managing a lot of the harder stuff I could remember from last winter in a single session. In 2 minds about whether to steepen the board or get/make some poorer holds. Keeping it at ~30 degrees might be more relevant my goals

F: Shoulder and hip flexibilty/strengthening

S: Felt a little fatigued from Tues and Thurs.
Too cold for partner to get on ropes so wound up at Roche Abbey. Repeated a bunch of stuff and added a couple of new problems with Crystal, felt high and scary, and Faith Left Hand which I'd struggled with in the past. Stopped before I felt too destroyed.

S: Shoulder and hip flexibilty/strengthening

Duncan Disorderly

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#7 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 12:44:28 pm
Kalymnos club... Final week  :'(

M: Rest/Belay GF Day - Put a rope up a 35m F6a for her to TR
T: Ghost Kitchen - Onsighting day... Warmup, onsighted Globus (F6c+/F7a - only route I'd actually planned to do this trip as it looked ace when I was there last year), dropped the last tricky move of Tahar ta Gueule (F7a - no slash!!) and rinsed it easily 1st RP. Tried Pourquoi Paniquer? (F6c+/F7a) but went off route (missed good LH sidepull and went right into no-mans-land) and lobbed... Slammed quite hard and tweaked my ankle (should have taken rather than pushing on when I realised I was in a precarious position as I'd gone over an overhang and there was a bit of a slab below)... Hobbled off the crag licking my wounds.
W: Rest/Belay GF Day... Did scooter tour of the Island too.... Beeped at nuff goats!
T: Telendos - Had wanted to onsight Creation 2010 (F7a) but got lost on the way from Irox to Miltiadis  (seems daft now but at the time it was perplexing/frustrating/infuriating to say the least), ankle was playing up too and managed to trip and slice my shin pretty badly while bushwhacking... Finally found the crag, warmed up and found a party was on the route so just had time to do a 38m, 3 star F6b (Diana, which was fucking amazing!) before getting the boat back.... Frustrating!
F: Last day... Poets - Warmed up then onsighted Hipponax (F7a) and snatched defeat from the jaws of victory by dropping the last move of Omero (F7a) post crux...  :shrug: No time for a RP so had to let it go, next year! Beautiful day so finished off with a swim and snorkel on Mirties beach... Head home.
S: Get in at 5am.... Sleep!
S: Short session @ AW... F6a- F6c.... Vegan roast dinner!

Amazing trip! Not setting the world alight by any stretch of the imagination but achieved pretty much all my pre-trip goals (if not the ones I set at the beginning of the year). Looking back at this years Power Club and UKC logs I can see where I've gone wrong and what I've done right... A brief summary goes:
  • Not really doing any redpointing makes you a bit shit at redpointing.
  • Onsighting lots of easy routes makes you good at onsighting easy routes.
  • Onsighting lots of easy routes doesn't make you great at onsighting harder routes.
Hardly any shocking revelations there and looking at the routes I tried in Kalymnos it seems that I knew this already... One of the biggest revelations has been with something not directly relating to MY climbing but my confidence with my belayer (Katie, my GF)... At the beginning of the season she wasn't at all confident with me taking unexpected lobs, which meant that I also wasn't confident at taking them, leading me to continually operate below my limit... This last trip showed how far she's come as she didn't even bat an eyelid at me taking huuuuge lobs and her pinging 5-6ft up the wall... Great!

Super psyched now so it's time to shift the post holiday kgs and actually train rather than just climb stuff, might even follow Fiend's lead and look for a coach/training plan... Any suggestions would be appreciated (did do a plan with Tommy years back - before the Lattice machine - not adverse to a bit of dull aerocap  ;)) Ace!

« Last Edit: October 25, 2021, 01:53:24 pm by Duncan Disorderly »

Nibile

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#8 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 01:07:31 pm
Power Club

Mon - Moonboard, usual disappointment.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Lattice edge two arms: back3 (half crimp) and front 3 (drag) + 28 kg. 5x5". Farmer's 90 kg for a few minutes.
Thu - 20' session, loaded carries.
Fri - rest.
Sat - light weights, loaded carries (stairs) and wheel.
Sun - 3' boxing bag + 3' jog x5.

duncan

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#9 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 02:23:43 pm
Good scenes. “Can’t believe you’ve never been here before etc.”

But I genuinely can't believe you'd never been before.

Not good enough.

Longer version: I stopped climbing in 1984 just as Raven Tor was beginning to become popular. I restarted in 1994 but remained a 70s trad. throwback, attempting to onsight everything, but not good enough to do this at RT. It’s only quite recently I’ve started to embrace redpointing (35 years too late).

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#10 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 02:57:05 pm
T: Central Rock Gym, NYC. Deload session 1, week 6. Warm up then Max hangs 7/53 *6hangs 20mm +40lb. 20 mins bouldering after up to V7/8

T: Moving

F: Moving

S: Moving

S: Boulder Canyon. Went to try Authentic Battle Damage V8. Some say soft but I thought pretty solid at the grade from where and how I started. Took way longer than I'd have liked - very good boulder. The V12 sit looks insanely hard

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#11 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 04:03:41 pm
Monday 30min Peloton ride

Tuesday School session- boulder triples and conditioning

Moonboard Warm Up Circuit
Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
The Warm Up Problem. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
The Limit 6a+. 6a+ 2019 Moonboard
Big Sale. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
Chalk & Blow. 6a 50 Degree

Boulder Triples 6 sets of 3 problems
3min rest between sets.
1min between problems
Chalk & Blow / The Warm Up Problem / LapTop 
✅✅✅
❌✅✅
✅✅❌
❌✅✅
❌✅✅
❌✅✅

Conditioning
Thrusters
1x8 27kg
2x8 33kg✅✅

Chest to Bar dips
4x4 ✅✅✅✅


Wednesday : 30min Peloton Ride

Thursday: cut finger on a tape measure  :oops:

Friday: rest

Saturday: School session

Warm up
Splat Board traverses x3
10s warm up hangs
35mm✅✅
30mm✅✅
25mm✅✅
20mm✅✅
16mm✅✅

4x5 feet on double Campus pulls lock and pull finish

2019 Moonboard warm up circuit
Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
True 6a+. 6a+ 2019 Moonboard
The Warm Up Problem. 6a+
Big Sale. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
The Limit. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard

Project Session
Project 1. On the 50 degree Board.  Spent the session trying this. Worked the crux section for 15 mins then had 6 tries over 45mins with good rests in between.

Conditioning.
8 sets of 5 explosive pull ups. 2min rest between sets.

Sunday: DIY & 30min Peloton Ride

Fear my chances on getting back out to Embankment in Chee Dale are almost gone for the year.  :shrug:


Bradders

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#12 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 25, 2021, 06:39:37 pm
M - rest

Tu - fingerboard, 6x 10s half crimp 26mm edge, 2.5min rests. Upped weight to +39kg and did all hangs with about right time in reserve. Then first pad pinch pick ups x5 15s, x5 10s and x5 15s, 1 min rests. Same weights as last week. Followed this with board doubles. 6x 6 move medium problems doing each twice back to back. Hard going as super high humidity meant some dampness in the holds, plus fingers were clearly fatigued. Still did about the same as last week success wise which felt decent.

W - rest

Th - great early grit conditions, low humidity and northerly breeze. Managed to get out to Caley for 3hrs or so. Warmed up on Forked Lightening Crack and also did the trav into it, then Breakfast a few times before managing Juju Club 1st go, Secret Seventh 4th go, and Ben's Groove 1st go. Nice to still have these engrained. Then tried Ben's sit for an hour. First time back since spending 15 sessions on it in March / April. Re-did all the moves quickly, then surprised myself on my 3rd go by climbing almost into the stand! Had a 4th go but hadn't rested long and came off before the crux. Briefly went on Zoo York and climbed into the big LH deadpoint move, but couldn't even pull onto the stand, fingers not warmed up for that sort of crimping.

Psyched with Ben's. On my first session on it earlier in the year (which was actually my 10th on it overall) I didn't even do all the moves! So getting that close this time bodes very well.

F - rest. Bad night's sleep meant the day was a bit of a write off

Sa - AM pick ups fingerboard session. 5x each of M2 and F2 half crimp. Upped M2 weight but had to drop F2 slightly versus last week. Followed by the same 15x pinch pick ups as Tuesday.
PM board session. Couple of my later warm ups felt amazing, never been so easy. Project session on 5 problems, including 2 set by Liam last week. Made good links on my 3 earlier projects and did all the moves. 2 moves left to do on each of Liam's ones. Hard! Tried hard all session, spent just over an hour on them all. Did conditioning after; 3x 10 weighted pull ups +5kg, Arnold press, front raise and external rotations.

Also put a load of holds on the roof beams of my shed, at the top of the board. Can't believe I'd not thought to do so before! Extends the climbing upwards by c. 30cm and now means problems can finish on a row of one pad or smaller edges, still on an overhang, which have to be moved to accurately, instead of a row of mainly jugs. Awesome!

Su - feeling it from day before, arms and fingers tired. PM did conditioning; bicep curls, leg raises, lateral raises and external rotations. Then did 8x 1 min on 2 mins off foot on campus ladders on big rungs, followed by 3x 4 mins on 5 mins off aerocap on jugs system board.

nai

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#13 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 26, 2021, 11:34:09 am

T - Raven Tor

Peak was looking glorious as I drove home. 


Often happens that

Fultonius

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#14 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 26, 2021, 04:08:43 pm
Monday: Not sure. Maybe nothing....

Tue: Nowt

Wed TCA Sesh. General trying projects for a bit, then Lattice Board min on, min off. Managed about 7 reps. This seems to target back 3 on me.Then foot on campussing, min on min off. 6 reps or so.Then Gym for some shoulder work

Thu: Nowt

Friday: TCA sesh - felt utter gubbed from Wednesday - forearms almost strained. Mainly just pottered around on easy stuff with GF.

Sat: Not a lot, house pottering.

Sunday: Well....pretty moderate hangover after a late and boozy one. GF even worse. Too late for Ratho, so a rescue session at GCC just doing some routes. Not much training value, and everything felt hard...

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#15 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 26, 2021, 11:39:21 pm
M - Flashpoint, bouldering, intended a board session but got distracted. Lots of problems from their "V5-V6" circuit.
T - work, 12 hrs
W - work, 12 hrs. Sore throat.
T - Ill, negative lft.
F - Ill but improving. Negative pcr. Then work nights 12hrs
S - nights 12 hrs
S - nights 12 hrs

71.5kg

Bit of a write off, lots off work, and ill in between.

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#16 Re: Power Club 605 18-24 Oct 2021
October 28, 2021, 07:29:08 am
M - rest.

T - rest.

W - Indoor bouldering (up to 7A+), routes - 7a+, 7b, 7c+.

T - Indoor bouldering (up to 7a+), routes - 7a+, 7b+, 7c, 7c, 7c.

F - Nowt.

S - 10km road run.

S - Fishing on L'Arroux - blanked.

 

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