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Non Quality Bouldering articles- Strathnairn (Read 3316 times)

scragrock

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Non Quality Bouldering articles- Strathnairn
October 20, 2021, 01:55:35 pm
New articles on John Watson's site Boulder Scotland from Benjy and i

Genuinely interested in folks thoughts as i tend to think writing about my stuff and how i did it always sounds a bit Wankey.

https://sites.google.com/site/boulderscotland/Cairngorms/strathnairn

Cheers  :)


Fiend

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Aye that's nice and down to earth. Issu is a bit tedious tho.

scragrock

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Aye that's nice and down to earth. Issu is a bit tedious tho.
Thanks Fiend.
Sorry..what's Issu?

JJP

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Really enjoyed it, nice pics as well and look forward to the guide coming out  :2thumbsup:

Think issu is the software thats been used to put the article online ? 

scragrock

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Really enjoyed it, nice pics as well and look forward to the guide coming out  :2thumbsup:

Think issu is the software thats been used to put the article online ? 
Thanks

oh i see...that was John's choice it's his site. Personally I don't really mind it. Each to the own i suppose 

Wicamoi

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As usual I'm a bit late to the thread, but I really enjoyed that Scragrock (the original link is now broken, but your piece is easily found on the site). I'm looking forward to your guide very much (only please tell me you are not planning to put Butch & Sundance in at f6C???).

scragrock

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Oh Thanks, its actually a cut down version of an auld Blog i started years ago and gave up on.

i have several more little pieces about Highland Bouldering old and new but there doesn't seem to be much of an appetite for them.

As for Butch....What would you suggest?

Wicamoi

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I'm interested to read what you have to say about Highland bouldering, and I'm sure I'm not alone.

As for the grade of B&S.... I don't know, because I went away empty-handed! But even the stand start version is way harder than, for example, The Hook Assis, and the idea that it might be the same grade as Slippery Slope is comical. Got to be something beginning with 7, surely?

SA Chris

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Always interested too.

scragrock

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oh...oh well i may put somethings together and pop them up here, thanks for the positive feedback.

I would grade Slippery Slope 6b so that doesn't fit for me, i tend to grade things these days a bit stiff so there is wiggle room and space for lines to settle over time.

6c+?

Wicamoi

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Your guide book: your rules  :) ... and I do not consider myself to be any good at grading anyway.

I agree that The Slippery Slope is nearer 6B than 6C, but I think I’d give it 6B+. For your interest here are my views on other nominal Strathnairn 6C+s that I’ve done ….New Boots and Panties = 6C, Hook Assis = low 6C+, Curiosity Becomes A Heavy Load = 6C/+, Excitement in the Buoys = 6C+. I still think Butch & Sundance (stand version) has to be at least a grade higher. Maybe I was just being dim on my first visit, but if so I was being equally dim on my second (all those other "6C+s" done in one session)…. and seemingly I still haven’t even reached the crux! Is it just me? Anyone else got an opinion?

It’s a bloody great line anyway, and if you’re adamant that it’s only three grades harder than Slippery Slope then I’ll need to come back for a third try. Strathnairn is great. Good idea to go with toughish grading - wouldn't want it mobbed.




Fultonius

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Your guide book: your rules  :) ... and I do not consider myself to be any good at grading anyway.

I agree that The Slippery Slope is nearer 6B than 6C, but I think I’d give it 6B+. For your interest here are my views on other nominal Strathnairn 6C+s that I’ve done ….New Boots and Panties = 6C, Hook Assis = low 6C+, Curiosity Becomes A Heavy Load = 6C/+, Excitement in the Buoys = 6C+. I still think Butch & Sundance (stand version) has to be at least a grade higher. Maybe I was just being dim on my first visit, but if so I was being equally dim on my second (all those other "6C+s" done in one session)…. and seemingly I still haven’t even reached the crux! Is it just me? Anyone else got an opinion?

It’s a bloody great line anyway, and if you’re adamant that it’s only three grades harder than Slippery Slope then I’ll need to come back for a third try. Strathnairn is great. Good idea to go with toughish grading - wouldn't want it mobbed.

Not tried Butch and Sundance, but in general the other things we did up there seemed ok for the grades. The one we found a bit easier was Excitement in the Boys, but we finished up the groove on the right? Wish I'd filmed that one. Sloth SS is also saft if you're 183cm with +2 ape, but I'm sure it's right on for those of lesser lank.

Wicamoi

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To be clear, I am not at all questioning Strathnairn grading in general, only that of Butch & Sundance in particular. Not done Sloth SS, but as a fellow 183-er, with a plus 10 ape index (SI units obvs), I shall bear that in mind.

Fultonius

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To be clear, I am not at all questioning Strathnairn grading in general, only that of Butch & Sundance in particular. Not done Sloth SS, but as a fellow 183-er, with a plus 10 ape index (SI units obvs), I shall bear that in mind.

Sloth is totally flashable if you're tall.

scragrock

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 Farr boulder grading- I think Jamie did a pretty good job there so its not really worth arguing over half grades here or there.

Wicamoi- "Strathnairn is great. Good idea to go with toughish grading - wouldn't want it mobbed."  :2thumbsup:

p.s Butch is HARD don't sweat it.

SA Chris

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p.s Butch is HARD don't sweat it.
Still couldn't eat 50 eggs though.

scragrock

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It was Never about the eggs :P

Fiend

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You lot have been ODing on the Buckie enemas if you think Slippery Slope is the other side of 6C. You'd have to regrade 90% of slopey / power problems in Scotland the UK by two full grades in comparison. It's just as hard as Excitement for example.

Also we all know where eggs go these days for maximum keto power.

scragrock

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Yup, this is the rub with grading anything......

If it was up to me Bouldering would get 3 grades- Easy/Int and Hard with the emphasis on stars{or other such system} to highlight best of the best in a specific area.

Just as a side note- i have been following a Ketogenic diet to treat a neurological disorder for years (specialist recommended pills} and despite prolonged and in-depth personal research i have Never encountered any measurable climbing gains from the daily insertion of 1 egg let alone 50.   

peterherd

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I think useful grading is best achieved via consensus of repeats. This makes more sense to me than pre-empting change and erring one way or another. Also takes the weight off for example, Rob.  Doodle polls might help reach those that don't interact with UKC?

Wicamoi - I don't think "your guide your rules" approach is how these things work best. Input from a variety of sources, including yours, is useful. Rob is putting a lot of effort in to that end and I don't think he needs encouraged away from that.. especially not toward an alternative grading scale!

Wicamoi

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 Hi Peter
I guess we broadly agree. But I wasn't trying to encourage scragrock to do anything in particular - just trying to empower him a little in the task he has chosen. From what I've seen of his output and character I have no doubt he'll do a good job. Grading is an invidious task: but not a very important one in the scheme of things, and certainly not one to lose sleep over. The first edition of every climbing guide ever published has surely been riddled with debatable grades.

 

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