UKBouldering.com

Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21 (Read 5534 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 17, 2021, 04:04:27 pm

11.4-7 average 159.1 up 0.5lb

M. Home FB warm up. Early AM Tor with Nick. Cold, fresh, almost mint. Dogged to AM headwall. Did it in overlapping halves (moves 1-7 and 5-12). Came down. Second tie in from ground to top in sections almost doing Push Up except I got the pinch wrong at the overlap and doing the AM headwall in two halves. Had some foot popping issues. Tiring. Nick left. Got to watch Rhos F do Mecca Extension then I worked on Bens with worn tips. On crux section managed the first and hardest move at second attempt. Linked second and third at first attempt. Did fourth and last of hard moves at first attempt and carried on to match on THFML. Then tried first section but scarcely pull on.

T.

W.

T. AM Home FB warmup then Tor with Nick. First tie in dogged to AM headwall. Felt good but came to conclusion that shoes had softened too much. Second tie in to the top was similar to Monday except I was much better on the Crucixion section and fairly close to doing it in a oner. Went on Bens again. Did move one and two together of hard section, the third in isolation and fourth all the way to the match on THFML. Tried the start section again and was better on it than Monday but didn’t link it. PM Went to Foundry hoping they’d have a Kataki in my size but unfortunately not so took a gamble on a women’s/LV pair of Otakis.

F. Drove to Devon

S. Train back from Devon

S. PM Systems board. Warm up then benchmarks and a set of 20/10’s as much to wear in the new Otakis as anything

Getting a bit jaded with lack of progress at Tor but think shoes going soft a factor. Got my previous pair of Katakis for resoling at Llanberis Resoles which are due back tomorrow and also now a pair of LV/Women’s Otakis which on paper should be perfect but I tried a borrowed pair of the men’s version the other week and was skating all over the place with them. I have so may shoes now it’s beyond ridiculous.

Last ditch attempts at Tor next week and have loosely arranged to climb with Paul Reeve the following week at LPT subject to weather. Also been plotting an extended trip to Spain in Jan.

Drank and ate too much this weekend

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#1 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 17, 2021, 04:54:48 pm
John - guess I must have seen you at Secret Garden last week, which 8a were you on? We saw a couple of folk on Full Job, looked ace!

M - rest
T - Odyssey, back on Orion. Warmed up putting the draws in, but stupidly got a bit flash pumped attempting to push through. 2 RP attempts, both times held the rh edge and got left hand up, both times too boxed to make the last (easier) move to jugs. Arse. Impressive thunderstorm between redpoints though, lightning was pretty full on! Managed a conciliation flash of the nearby Triton (7b+) after the rain cleared. Also met Duncan Disorderly!
W - rest, was going to be a support day for gf but she decided she'd rather chill.
T - Poets, last day, feeling pretty broken. Couple of lovely 6a's, then OS Hipponax (7a) which gf surprised herself by toproping clean, good to see after a summer of little climbing for her. Then barely managed an OS of Le Regne de Saturne (7a), pleased to recover from misreading the last crux and having to reverse it. Thought I'd empty the tank with a flash attempt on the classic Tufa King Pumped (7b+) as it was free, but this only confirmed I was spent, wilted by halfway.
F - travel
S - took daughter to UCR, no climbing for me.
S - TCA, 2hrs trying new hard set (blues, 7A - 7C). Did ok, but really need to work on the steeper stuff.

71.5kg

Really good trip, especially considering I didn't really get any training in for it. Some amazing tufa routes, and Kalymnos was brilliant fun for me as a first timer. Second week a bit less successful than the first, but still really enjoyed the sessions on Orion even if I left empty handed.

RobK

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 291
  • Karma: +14/-0
#2 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 17, 2021, 05:45:51 pm
M - Boardroom. Warm up on upstairs boulders, tough set. Then an On The Minute Moonboard session. 30 minutes of the most repeated 6A+ to 6B benchmarks. Felt like good training, no failure but working hard by the end. Maybe up the difficulty slightly next time.

T - Rest.

W - Boardroom. Warm up on downstairs boulders, a slightly more ego massaging set. Then circuit board, 5 sets of double 6c laps with a minute rest between laps and 8 minutes between sets. A little pumpy but probably not hard enough.

T - Rest.

F - LPT, back on Mussel Beach. Decent conditions and a good crowd. A really good session, but not good enough. Three RPs with three identical high points of hitting the crimp after the pillar but falling off the move afterwards. Has to be a mental rather than physical thing at this point! Loving the battle but worried I'm going to run out of opportunities this year.

S - Boardroom conditioning. Fast clap pull ups (5 sets of 5). Dips (5 sets of 8 ). Resistance band roll outs (5 sets of 6).

S - Rest.


Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +29/-10
    • Climberbiker.
#3 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 17, 2021, 06:05:09 pm
Spent the week in London on ORSC Fast track course.

Monday/ Tuesday Rest

W: went to the Arch in Bermondsey. Great little gym. Will be back in November when I finish the 2nd half of ORSC.
Project Session on 2017 Moonboard
- Terminator 6b. Didn’t do in 20min time slot
- IronMan 6b. Managed in 20min time slot
Had lunch and then did 4x4s on a 16move V1. Skin sore at the end. 
5x10 push ups and 3x10 16kg kettle bell thrusters to finish.

Thursday/Friday/ Saturday: rest

Sun: at the School
2019 Moonboard warm up circuit

- Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
- Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
- True 6a+. 6a+ 2019 Moonboard
- The Warm Up Problem. 6a+
- Big Sale. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
- Chalk & Blow. 50 Degree

Project Session

- Project 1. Chicken Locks. 6b.
Linked the first 4 moves. Spent 20mins on it. Not done last 3 moves yet.
 
- Project 2. 6b. 50 Board worked out the finish. Then had 5 attempts. Finger Strength powered out
« Last Edit: October 17, 2021, 06:33:15 pm by oldfella »

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#4 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 17, 2021, 09:01:55 pm
Pretty good week; first getting onto a new training cycle. My wife is now well enough for us to be able to share the night shifts with our daughter, which has meant better blocks of sleep for me thankfully.

M - rest

Tu - AM fingerboard session. 6x 10s 26mm edge half crimp, 2.5 mins rest, all +37kg. Then first pad pinch pick ups, x5 15s, x5 10s and x5 15s, 1 min rests.
PM board session with Liam. Great to get some problems set by someone else. Did a few of my benchmarks first go which was good. Tried three hard ones set by Liam, did most of the moves but found them hard! Also tried my three normal projects and did okay. Big session, tried hard.

W - board doubles, 6x 6 move problems. Did both laps on half of them, dropping 2nd lap on the rest. Conditioning after, pull ups, Arnold press, front raise, external rotations.

Th - 6x 1 min on 2 mins off campus ladders on big rungs, then 3x 3 mins on 5 mins off aerocap on jugs.

F - rest

Sa - pick up fingerboard, 5x 15s each on middle 2 and front 2 half crimp, 20mm edge, 1 min rests. Felt strong and upped weights from last time doing similar session. Then same pinch pick ups session as Tuesday. Again felt strong and upped weights a bit. Then conditioning; leg lifts, bicep curls, lateral raises and external rotations.

Su - dreadful conditions. Warmed up at home including doing my board warm ups but on bad feet. Felt hard, few foot pops and sliding around in the humidity. Then out to Almscliff with Liam. Tried Jess' Roof as I'm keen to repeat it, but couldn't do any of the crux moves and my baby soft skin wasn't doing well. Didn't spend long on it. Did the circuit of low 7s on Demon Wall Roof and the Crucifix, then had a few goes at Chiasmata and at least made it to the start of the hard bit. Finished doing all the moves on and nearly linking The Keel, and did C&A Traverse first go.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4315
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#5 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 17, 2021, 09:26:55 pm
STG: drag some fitness together for imminent last minute Spain trip.

Mon: TCA sesh with B. Managed a white I'd been working on a bit, 7A+ ish. Feeling a bit less hindered by the aches and pains. Repeated two whites which get 7B aparently. For me, the easier one is about 6C. Not sure about the other one, it is hard but it only took me 5 goes the first time. Been so long since I was on any benchmark outdoor problems I don't really know where I'm at.
Tue-Sat: NOWT - away in Ukraine for work.
Sun: Ratho sesh in prep for our trip to Margalef/Montserrat in November. 200m of 6c>7a+ onsighting.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2021, 09:33:01 pm by Fultonius »

Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +29/-10
    • Climberbiker.
#6 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 17, 2021, 10:03:50 pm
trip to Margalef/Montserrat in November. 200m of 6c>7a+ onsighting.
What an amazing goal for a trip. :clap2: :clap2: :bow: Best of luck



 Very jealous.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#7 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 17, 2021, 11:29:28 pm
M - F: There was a board session in there somewhere. Set and did a couple of new things.

Su - Unfortunately couldn't get out on Saturday so it was Sunday at Malham - fairly grim conditions. Warm up then put draws in Main Overhang. Fired off a couple of holds with grease. First go (this being the first redpoint go, just seeing where I'd get to) got to the holds just after the banana and looked down at my feet and couldn't recall what I was looking for. Forgot about the high left foot and was tunnel-visioning too low. Would be interesting to know how much farther I'd have got. Second go got my hand on the 'nana and was happily moving my right hand to the gaston pocket when I found myself flying away from the crag having pinged off the hold.

Good session to increase familiarity - it could go next time if the connies are reasonable.

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +40/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#8 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 08:55:59 am
Kalymnos club...

M: Rest
T: Odyssey... Warmup, get on Imia (F6c+) as it shares lower off with The Beast (F7b). Rinse it and put clips in and brush holds on The Beast. Meet Duma  :wave: Go for the flash... Foot slips during crux - Arse! Got some sharp holds that I immediately choose to forget about  :oops:. Belay GF on some stuff. Biblical rainstorm kicks in just as I pull on for RP go - forces retreat to pub leaving clips in route.
W: Odyssey - Warmup then go for the RP on The Beast... Deadpoint for small sharp crimp (see above) that pierces LH middle finger... NNFN!!! Claret all over the place... Game over man!! Go to Arginonta Valley with GF she leads a load and I put a rope up on a few for her. Smash nuff espresso martinis, tequila and margaritas in climbers bar to drown sorrows!
T: Hungover... Staring at finger, sanding finger, moisturising finger... Rest I guess.
F: Staring at finger, sanding finger, moisturising finger... Belay GF
S: Staring at finger, sanding finger, moisturising finger...Do superb F6a (Crystal Line) so GF can TR it...
S: Spartan Wall - Put clips in Leonidas, (F7a+/b depending on if you believe the local guide or UKC) that I flashed on TR but dropped on RP, to warm up (chose this over potentially spannering skin)... Then waited over an hour for a catch and got completely cold. Went for the RP anyway but felt about 2 full grades harder than it had last week... Was completely boxed by the second clip but kept on pushing and managed it by the absolute skin of my teeth - was more akin to falling upwards than climbing! Feet went numb at one point and had to stop mid RP crux (top slab) to remove tape from split tip (pretty much healed)... Probably the hardest fight I've ever had on a redpoint (and definitely the hardest a route has ever felt after flashing it), not sure it's a good or bad thing but it's definitely one I'll not be forgetting in a hurry!

Poor tactics again and a snatch of victory from the jaws of defeat week... Walked the line between failure and success and thankfully ended up on the right side in the end... Successfully managed the finger split tho, which is a plus (did necessitate pretty much 3 days off climbing in paradise - weather wasn't great tho so it could have been worse!) Still in Kaly til Friday so just gonna concentrate on onsighting stuff now. Can't handle the stress  :look:

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#9 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 09:05:38 am
Well done on Leonidas DD. A currently fashionable slash grade too!

M - Shoulders conditioning: side planks focusing on end range stability; end range elevation, in prone; handstands. Walked 14km.
T - Fingerboarding: added 3 finger drags to the routine along with 4 finger half crimps. Felt hard and tweaky (for the elbows as much as the fingers). Shoulders conditioning.
W - Walked 10km.
T - Walked 10km. Drove to Somerset.
F - Avon Sea Walls with the Real Writer. Tried to try Fast Grip (E2) but mistakenly did Nightmare (S) instead, thought it felt a bit easy... The real Fast Grip start has been consumed by brambles and the real writer didn't fancy a traverse that might have landed her, like Br’er Rabbit, in the middle of the briar patch. Had a look at Padansac instead, which I recalled as unusually well-protected for an Avon E2. Halfway up the grove, with no gear that really convinced me, I thought better of it and hastily down-climbed. To think I soloed this onsight once. Did Ffoegs Folly P1 instead. Drove back to London.
S - Walked 10km. Fingerboarding: as Tuesday.
S - Walked 10km. Shoulders conditioning. Hurt elbow wrestling with the lad.

Great fun climbing at Avon, I really like the Sea Walls style. Revisiting old glories is never a good idea though!

Should be able to squeeze in a day or two (tbc) this week but that will be it for some time. Fingerboarding and bouldering once the elbow settles.

 

Nibile

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#10 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 09:20:30 am
Power Club

Mon - 20' session. Light boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - 20' session. Lattice edge up to +2 kg. Happy. Tested back3 two armed +34 kg for two reps wich is coherent with the one arm hangs.
Thu - bouldering at nearby gym. Had fun despite my knees.
Fri - boxing tabatas.
Sat - weights, loaded carries.
Sun - monster glutes DOMS. Some jogging, boxing bag.


Liamhutch89

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
#11 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 09:26:22 am
T -  Board sesh with Bradders. Struggled on some of his easier problems where they involved narrow moves, twisting, and crossing over (aka moving well), but quite easily despatched of some stuff that climbed front-on, with wide, or locked off moves (burl). Armed with this knowledge, I set a few problems that maxed out the capability of my shoulders, boning down on full crimps and locking off on wide gastons. Felt worked by the end, good session.

T - am: max hangs in half crimp on 27mm edge, 3 finger drag on lattice edge, full crimp on 6mm edges, followed by wrist wrench pick ups. Making progress again by utilising different edge sizes and grip positions after a bit of a plateau, but adding weight on the 6mm edges is dreadful on skin considering I already weigh north of 80kg!

pm: one armers, planche progressions, assisted iron crosses, nordic curls

F - board. Made an effort to set some new narrow problems that involved a bit of twisting.

S - am: same fingerboard routine as on Thursday

pm: Almscliff. It was pretty warm and nearly 100% humidity so I couldn't bring myself to try really hard and risk shredding fingers. Didn't get up anything but pottered around trying various problems: Jess' roof, Stu's roof, chiasmata (possibly my main goal for this season), and dick hymen. They all felt plausible and i'm actually quite psyched for the cliff again when we get some better connies! 

Mike Highbury

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 118
  • Karma: +4/-0
#12 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 09:39:42 am
Great fun climbing at Avon, I really like the Sea Walls style. Revisiting old glories is never a good idea though!

I too repeated Padansac recently and it did look like some useful bits have fallen off.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4315
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#13 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 12:13:38 pm
trip to Margalef/Montserrat in November. 200m of 6c>7a+ onsighting.
What an amazing goal for a trip. :clap2: :clap2: :bow: Best of luck



 Very jealous.

Ha, this was the report of what I did at Ratho, but actually, it is quite a good goal!  Ideally I'd like a F7b onsight, plus maybe a F7c quick redpoint. Not had enough training / consistency in climbing this year to do much more.

Feeling wiped out today - in hindsight lunch wasn't huge and dinner was 1 x can mackerel, some quinoa and roast squash / mini turnips. I feel the same way I do on a Monday if I've been out on the weekend doing big winter stuff, or a big alpine day. Woke up at 04:30 (after going to bed at 10:30), not hungry but struggled to get back to sleep, but then ended up sleeping until 8.30   I'd always assumed that if I was under-fuelling, I'd:

1. Feel hungry
2. Get skinny

But instead I seem to just feel lethargic / wiped and I guess my body just hits a minimum bodyfat % (relatively high for me, I'm no waif) and just limits output.  Last few weeks when consciously eating more, I've been waking up feeling more refreshed, and actually noticeably hungrier!

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#14 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 01:35:13 pm
John - guess I must have seen you at Secret Garden last week, which 8a were you on? We saw a couple of folk on Full Job, looked ace!

I was on Narcissus at the right hand side which was also amazing!

Kalymnos club cont...

M - Rest + massage.

T - By the time I finished a work call in the morning there was a river running down the street and I had to build a towel dam to stop water flowing into my room from the balcony after a huge storm. Decided not to head out, although it was ok if you were already out there in an overhanging spot by all accounts.

W - E.T. Cave. Both my climbing partner and I had picked up some kind of bug. I was hoping to feel great after 2 days rest but felt pretty weak and terrible. Warmed up on a 7b and then put the clips in Neil Gresham's 8a+ masterpiece "Tyrant". This is mega and definitely the kind of stuff I come to Kalymnos for. My first redpoint was ok and I got quite high but I had no power and my muscles were aching all over. Second try was a non-event.

T - Arginonta Valley - Felt a bit better but still had muscle aches and feeling a bit powered out. Warmed up on a nice 7a overhanging crack and then tried a 7c+ in the cave above. This gets 3 stars in the guide but is actually a bit grim, mainly because I couldn't get up it. Tried the classic 7c which was really good but I dropped the onsight and did it second go. Finished on a nice but sharp 6c+ wall climb.

F - rest.

S - Odyssey - Warmed up on a 7a. Then tried a 7b+ but dropped the crux. Then tried to onsight the classic 7c+ Marci Marc. This was amazing but made me realise I don't have that kind of fitness at the moment. I got really pumped even on jugs and dropped it just after the angle change to less steeper ground. Felt wasted so decided to strip it. Did a 7b+ with a tough crux 1st RP and then onsighted a nice 7b in a huge thunder storm with water pouring over some of the holds and then a shorter 7b on the right of the cave. Great day despite not getting up a few things and definitely more like the days I imagined in Kalymnos.

S - Travelling back with many delays but finally got in at 0140am this morning.

A nice trip to Kalymnos despite not performing as well as I hoped. The trip started of well but after picking up some kind of stomach bug it tailed off and I felt achy and powered out for the rest of the trip in between some bad weather spells. I don't know if it is the water there but I had stomach issues for pretty much the whole time after arriving even before I picked up some kind of bug. It seemed to get better when I stuck to mineral water from the shop but then it is a shame w.r.t generating so much plastic waste on the island. I was ready to not like climbing there again because of the huge crowds of climbers and other things that usually piss me off. However, it is still the ultimate climbing holiday destination and the crowds are not that bad if you are willing to walk longer than 30 minutes or are not set on a particular route. It has definitely inspired me to get some stamina again as it is definitely my favourite style questing up through huge overhangs. I think I will try and get a bit fitter and head to Istria some time over the winter.       

RobK

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 291
  • Karma: +14/-0
#15 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 02:09:20 pm
This gets 3 stars in the guide but is actually a bit grim, mainly because I couldn't get up it.

I think most of us have been here at some point or another!

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#16 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 02:51:31 pm
Can't remember the early week tbh (couple of sessions on Monday and Tuesday that felt Okay I Guess) but there were a few things this week;

Took a two day rest Fri and Sat, went back to Works today, felt fucking incredible. Did some wasps. Felt like, strong, so full of power.

Almost did a ring muscle up. Just a bit of strength in the left trap needed for the turnover. More ring dips! This isn't hugely climbing related just a personal calisthenic strength thing.

Basically think I've been overtraining. I'm going to ensure I rest better in future. Weighed myself and currently at just over 76kgs.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#17 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 02:56:57 pm
Great fun climbing at Avon, I really like the Sea Walls style. Revisiting old glories is never a good idea though!

I too repeated Padansac recently and it did look like some useful bits have fallen off.

Kind of you to say, it was the two absent pegs I missed the most. Peenuts might have compensated but, mainly, it was lack of moral fibre that was the problem.

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1686
  • Karma: +62/-1
#18 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 03:14:41 pm
M. Went for a power hour at Kilnsey after work (last one of the season before the forecast rain and darkness). Warmed up at the crag for a change and promptly hurt my right ring finger A2 whilst crimping on Fingers of Fury. For the first time in my life I stopped climbing straight away and booked to see Andy Mcvittie (process Physiotherapy). Usually I’m an idiot and carry on.
Acro Yoga again in the evening. Fun session standing on people and being stood on.

T. Had to cancel a board session with Will. Was really psyched for someone to come and try my problems  :boohoo:

W. Physio with Andy. Quickly confirmed as a minor A2 injury and density hangs/pulls prescribed to start the healing process. I’m being a guinea pig for something he’s working on for supporting the injury (like tape). Seems like a cool, simple idea. Seems to help a lot.

T. Density pulls (just 30s pull 3-4 times a day)

F. Density pulls

S. Nice long walk with friends and dogs + density pulls

S. Run around skipton moor with the dog. Also had a board session to see how the finger is holding up (tried a few easy circuits earlier in the week). With taping + support I could get through my warm ups (minus 1/2 hard moves on the RH which I subbed for easier holds). But going into controlled drags and even some light half crimp was pain-free. Kept it fairly short and didn’t push that hard and really happy with how it was.





Bit of a bummer injuring myself after a good run of form - especially as id been talking to Andy that day about not overdoing it and injuring myself.

The injury was on a Big dynamic move off a RH crimp with a lot of weight going through it. Given I don’t really crimp the injury isn’t a surprise. I’m keen to work with Andy over winter to try and bring some different grips into my sessions and hopefully emerge stronger on them and avoid this happening again (for a while anyway…)

Thanks to Huw/Liam for the tips on what to work on in last weeks PC too. Though I’ll ignore Fiends suggestion of jamming - definitely not my style (which means I should definitely do some of it  :whistle:)

Liamhutch89

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
#19 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 04:53:56 pm
Feeling wiped out today - in hindsight lunch wasn't huge and dinner was 1 x can mackerel, some quinoa and roast squash / mini turnips. I feel the same way I do on a Monday if I've been out on the weekend doing big winter stuff, or a big alpine day. Woke up at 04:30 (after going to bed at 10:30), not hungry but struggled to get back to sleep, but then ended up sleeping until 8.30   I'd always assumed that if I was under-fuelling, I'd:

1. Feel hungry
2. Get skinny

But instead I seem to just feel lethargic / wiped and I guess my body just hits a minimum bodyfat % (relatively high for me, I'm no waif) and just limits output.  Last few weeks when consciously eating more, I've been waking up feeling more refreshed, and actually noticeably hungrier!

Sounds like a reduction of your metabolic rate from underfuelling, which might not be the exact science, but seems to be more or less what happens in terms of the effect. A couple of years ago I stopped losing weight while eating under 2,000 kcals a day for a long period. My weight plateaued for months, I was freezing all the time, low energy, etc. Slowly reverse dieting (increasing my daily intake by 100 kcals every week) helped me get to a point where I now maintain my weight at just over 3,000 kcals a day, and I'm only a few kg heavier than I was at my lightest. Energy, recovery, strength gains and general resilience seem much improved when eating more food.

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#20 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 06:24:05 pm
T: DBC. Training Phase 1, week 5, session 1. Good session. Warmups involving contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ hard flash). Max hangs 7/53 *10hangs 18mm +40lb. Felt OK. 15 mins attempting some hard boulders. Moonboard, 2 6C BM, 2 6C+ BM, 3 7A BM. SST to finish, did first superset then finished after some lock-offs as tendons felt not up for it

T: DBC. Training Phase 1, week 5, session 2. Feeling tired, definitely need a deload week. Warmups involving contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ retroflash). Max hangs 7/53 *10hangs 20mm +40lb (BM was busy). Moonboard, 3 6C BM, 2 6C+ BM. 5 max moves on the 30 - managed between 20 and 25 moves each time. Finished with max FL holds

S: Eldorado Canyon. Went to Mitten boulder and warmed up doing Hangover Cure V5. Got on Hungboard V8 and worked out moves fairly quickly. Proceeded to take far too long doing it, including tearing a huge hole in my finger. Really good climb, shame about the dabby top... Went to look at Germ Free Adolescence after a while which is an amazing highball V5 (crux at lip) but bailed due to not enough friends and pads - finally been uninjured for a good period of time and hitting some OK form so being more wary


S: Moving into new house, painting walls etc…

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#21 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 09:36:27 pm
Great fun climbing at Avon, I really like the Sea Walls style. Revisiting old glories is never a good idea though!
I too repeated Padansac recently and it did look like some useful bits have fallen off.
Kind of you to say, it was the two absent pegs I missed the most. Peenuts might have compensated but, mainly, it was lack of moral fibre that was the problem.
Old glories are always a honeytrap.

I did it a few years back and most of the gear seemed to be offset wires / Peenuts! I did enjoy it, although prefer Main Wall style to Sea Walls style.


I'd always assumed that if I was under-fuelling, I'd:

1. Feel hungry
2. Get skinny

But instead I seem to just feel lethargic / wiped and I guess my body just hits a minimum bodyfat % (relatively high for me, I'm no waif) and just limits output.  Last few weeks when consciously eating more, I've been waking up feeling more refreshed, and actually noticeably hungrier!
Interesting. Very similar to me. As part of my digestion-healing diet in recent years, I suspect I've cut down on calories, as well as generally eating a lot lighter and healthier. As a result I've not lost the tiniest bit of weight, and am generally more tired and have noticeably less energy most of the time. Heavy and tired, it's a winning formula for progressing with climbing! I presume part of it is my borked digestion not getting enough energy out of whatever food input too. But it;s still interesting to hear of other's experiences. Unless they're skinny cunts.

Margalef is fucking dire for onsighting. Unless you roll your dice well with the infinite choice of pockets. Or have an excess of stamina to try them all.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4315
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#22 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 10:00:34 pm

I'd always assumed that if I was under-fuelling, I'd:

1. Feel hungry
2. Get skinny

But instead I seem to just feel lethargic / wiped and I guess my body just hits a minimum bodyfat % (relatively high for me, I'm no waif) and just limits output.  Last few weeks when consciously eating more, I've been waking up feeling more refreshed, and actually noticeably hungrier!
Interesting. Very similar to me. As part of my digestion-healing diet in recent years, I suspect I've cut down on calories, as well as generally eating a lot lighter and healthier. As a result I've not lost the tiniest bit of weight, and am generally more tired and have noticeably less energy most of the time. Heavy and tired, it's a winning formula for progressing with climbing! I presume part of it is my borked digestion not getting enough energy out of whatever food input too. But it;s still interesting to hear of other's experiences. Unless they're skinny cunts.

It's seems quite a leap of faith to just start eating more and not just end up like Cartman on the weight gain 4000!

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1521
  • Karma: +91/-7
#23 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 18, 2021, 10:08:01 pm
BEEEEEF CAAAAAKE

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#24 Re: Power Club 604 11-17 Oct 21
October 19, 2021, 09:58:40 am

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal