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Poll

Given just how proper they are....

7C+/8A - the quintessential classic where you don't know if you collect your big ego small dick "8A" trophy
12 (27.9%)
7c+/8a - as above but with added kneebars and bolts extended with multiple slings
4 (9.3%)
7B+/C/C+ - one for the connoisseurs
9 (20.9%)
7A/B - one for the philosophers, a flamboyant leap across two grades
5 (11.6%)
E10/11 - depending whether you get more insta-likes smashed out for overgrading or downgrading
4 (9.3%)
Fsomething (R/X) - perfect trad grading to fit in with centuries of existing trad grading
2 (4.7%)
HVS/E1 - aka Mild Extreme hmmm
7 (16.3%)

Total Members Voted: 42

Favourite slash grades?? (Read 3414 times)

Fiend

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Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 09:50:18 am
 :-\

spidermonkey09

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#1 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 10:14:38 am
Surely the 7A/B example across three grades is the sole preserve of those people who are still labouring under the mistaken belief that + grades are 'half grades' rather than an equal grading band in their own right?

Edit: maybe you're one of them, the example above is a flamboyant leap across 3 grades, namely 7A, 7A+ and 7B surely

jwi

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#2 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 10:37:25 am
At some point I will write a long article on latent variables and gaussian mixing models for practicing climbers. Suffice to say that there is evidence that central measures are better estimated when you require higher precision from the respondents than they could reasonably be able to distinguish.

Dexter

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#3 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 11:18:16 am
How about the 6C/7B (or should it be 6C-7B) for really morpho problems?

nai

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#4 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 11:36:17 am
I'd like to see the Trad / boulder could be a route / could be a problem used a lot more.



abarro81

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#5 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 11:45:05 am
I'd like to see the Trad / boulder could be a route / could be a problem used a lot more.

Or even trad/sport/boulder for super-long cave problems with a highball exit? Who fancies 8c+/9a/8B/8B+/E9/E10?

nai

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#6 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 11:47:30 am
would an r/x be going too far?

Nutty

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#7 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 12:44:10 pm
Not technically a slash grade, but the FRCC-style Mild Very Severe (with either a + or -) has got to be in with a shout for somehow fitting three more grades between HS and VS (or five if you count HS+ and VS-).

Doylo

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#8 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 01:05:03 pm
...

Johnny Brown

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#9 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 01:28:26 pm
At some point I will write a long article on latent variables and gaussian mixing models for practicing climbers. Suffice to say that there is evidence that central measures are better estimated when you require higher precision from the respondents than they could reasonably be able to distinguish.


This, it makes perfect sense even without the idea of asking for too much precision. It's asking people to reliably bin a continuous variable with an imprecise and subjective measure. Like asking people to sort slugs into size categories to millimetre precision with a centimetre ruler.

Hoseyb

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#10 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 11, 2021, 10:34:30 pm
ABO-

Fiend

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#11 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 09:07:09 am
would an r/x be going too far?
It's there, 5th option on the poll. Sadly neglected, I suppose on a primarily bouldering forum people just don't care about having the most exact and appropriate trad grades to fit in with the other hundreds of thousands of trad grades in the UK.


ABO-
ABO/- , surely!


How about the 6C/7B (or should it be 6C-7B) for really morpho problems?
Don't be daft, this is all about precision and accuracy.


Or even trad/sport/boulder for super-long cave problems with a highball exit? Who fancies 8c+/9a/8B/8B+/E9/E10?
You do, assuming you can kneebar it down to 8b+/c/8A+/B/E8/E9  ;) But that is a good line of thinking at least.


I'd like to see the Trad / boulder could be a route / could be a problem used a lot more.
It's used very well throughout the BMC Peak Grit guides!

shark

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#12 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 10:53:10 am
HVS/E1 - aka Mild Extreme hmmm

You mean E0

 :lol:

Fiend

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#13 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 12:09:03 pm
Oh, yes, well I never  :whistle:

iain

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#14 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 12:43:30 pm
HVS/E1 - aka Mild Extreme hmmm

You mean E0

 :lol:

 :clap2:  :lol:


(ahem, I do actually find sport grades beside UK trad routes really helpful)

fatneck

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#15 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 02:55:08 pm
6b/+ deffo my favourite slash grade, particularly in Font...

Rob F

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#16 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 05:46:07 pm
What happens when you've finally entered a state of climbing subconsciousness that transcends the limitations generated by climbing grades???

Fiend

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#17 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 06:01:39 pm
You don't get any fucking likes on Insta that's for sure. And you're barred from YYFY for life.

lagerstarfish

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#18 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 07:40:34 pm
What happens when you've finally entered a state of climbing subconsciousness that transcends the limitations generated by climbing grades???

You keep quiet about it, otherwise everyone thinks you are a weapons grade bellend

steveri

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#19 Re: Favourite slash grades??
October 12, 2021, 09:13:46 pm
Honourable mention for the 6b- at Castle Inn, first A55 guide.

 

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