I just checked what the state of play on climbing-history.org was. Is there any reason to still exclude Liquid Ambar and Hubble? We have a belayer who says he's done it and the belayer is vouched for by Doyle.
Quote from: Will Hunt on October 28, 2021, 01:23:00 pmThe point is that people expect board or fingerboard strength to translate consistently to any style of climbing and it is never ever that simple.Iím not sure anyone expects that!
The point is that people expect board or fingerboard strength to translate consistently to any style of climbing and it is never ever that simple.
I'm a bit surprised this is still being discussed but I guess there remains so much mystery. This post won't help resolve any of it.
Quote from: Nike Air on October 27, 2021, 05:56:09 pmAnyone know where he is nowadays?Nice one, you hope he may have come out of the other side of it with a better perspective and new motives. Turns out I do. He now frequents a wall near me that a few of my friends go to on the regular. Seems he wants to keep a low profile now, but from what I can gather he's still fairly strong but not wad strong.
Anyone know where he is nowadays?
The story that keeps giving. Who was her?
D****e from Conwy.
He's definitely not shit on rock. But doing some hard things doesn't make you great at all the easy things, like grit 6Bs (as per the Rich Simpson example).The point is that people expect board or fingerboard strength to translate consistently to any style of climbing and it is never ever that simple.
I think it translates to limestone boulder problems. I've done several 7As and 7A+s this year on lime, and generally churn through most everything in the 6s, and I think it's basically cos I've got very strong fingers. I've scraped my way desperately up grit 7As at best after very long sieges and often get shut down on mid 6s on grit all the time, because you can't just pull harder with your fingers to get you through. The moves are weird.Daily I lament I am not Swiss or Spanish tbh. But anyway. Boards are good for some stuff way more than others. But they are good for that stuff. I guess there's a reason everyone uses em.
given Rich's history of blatant BS it feels like too much of a coincidence that the one witness is not well known, has given up climbing and moved to thailand. Maybe Im being overly skeptical?
No, but are you American? Or is "most everthing" slipping into the UK Lexicon (E11, 20m fall potential) these days?
Quote from: shurt on October 23, 2021, 06:51:34 pmI loved that wall when I was growing up and the cellar there was something I never ventured down toReminds me, back in the early 00's when we used to go to the monthly comps at St Werburgh's, shurt and I definitely witnessed RS fail on a problem for the nth time, throw a massive paddy, kick his chalk bag, tear up his scorcecard and storm out. Much to our amusement.
I loved that wall when I was growing up and the cellar there was something I never ventured down to
Quote from: remus on October 28, 2021, 02:07:32 pmgiven Rich's history of blatant BS it feels like too much of a coincidence that the one witness is not well known, has given up climbing and moved to thailand. Maybe Im being overly skeptical?My 2p's worth is there is no requirement for a witness to be famous. Whether they have now given up climbing is irrelevant to whether they can remember the event. Their current whereabouts is also irrelevant, people move around all the time and 2005 was a long time ago. Emails can be sent from anywhere. Dan has voluntarily confirmed the ascents of Hubble and LA independently of Rich. Are we seriously suggesting that he may be lying for him years after the event? Seems a bit Machieavellian - why would he lie on Rich's behalf?
On a somewhat related note... Was told last night that apparently Ron Fawcet belated Gaskins when he did Hubble... Can anyone confirm/deny? Or know Ron to ask?
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