UKBouldering.com

What’s an acceptable time to be on a route? (Read 5219 times)

Ballsofcottonwool

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 102
  • Karma: +5/-0
And maybe a story from the (currently) 1 person who voted that they wouldn't belay anyone for more than 15 mins :lol:

that was me, I've never been into working routes and haven't ever done the type of long endurance routes that take that long to climb. + what Wellsy said, if I want to climb on something I can't do I'd much rather go bouldering.

Rocksteady

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Crank
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +45/-0
  • Hotter than the sun!
My favourite belayer comment directed at a mate who took a particularly long shakeout (at least 20 min): 'This is like going fishing'.  :lol:

M1V0

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 145
  • Karma: +7/-0
And maybe a story from the (currently) 1 person who voted that they wouldn't belay anyone for more than 15 mins :lol:

that was me, I've never been into working routes and haven't ever done the type of long endurance routes that take that long to climb. + what Wellsy said, if I want to climb on something I can't do I'd much rather go bouldering.

Is that 15 minutes at a time, or cumulatively? As in a lifetime cap on belaying, you would never belay someone for longer than 15 minutes ever.

Ballsofcottonwool

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 102
  • Karma: +5/-0
With some partners 15 minutes has felt like a lifetime

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1523
  • Karma: +91/-7
You been climbing with Will Hunt?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
He said 15 minutes, not 15 seconds.

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1182
  • Karma: +72/-2
My favourite belayer comment directed at a mate who took a particularly long shakeout (at least 20 min): 'This is like going fishing'.  :lol:

I was dogging a route in Tonsai, which pretty much starts from a cafe veranda, when eventually my belayer calmly said to me “Come on down now, you are embarrassing both me and you”

seankenny

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1014
  • Karma: +116/-12
My favourite belayer comment directed at a mate who took a particularly long shakeout (at least 20 min): 'This is like going fishing'.  :lol:

I was dogging a route in Tonsai, which pretty much starts from a cafe veranda, when eventually my belayer calmly said to me “Come on down now, you are embarrassing both me and you”

It's a beach in Thailand full of hairdressers and hippies throwing firey sticks about!

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3838
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
I was once climbing at the same crag as an American couple, the fella was on an onsight for >1 hour, his belayer suddenly asked very urgently for me to take over belaying while  he was in a knee bar, which I did, whereupon she sprinted full tilt off behind the nearest bush to ahem, deal  with the consequences of having eaten at a cheap taverna the night before.  Fortunately he did onsight it ok, although he was a bit surprised that his belayer had changed nationality and gender.

kingholmesy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 564
  • Karma: +47/-0
Personally I’m getting pretty bored after any more than 45 mins belaying a dogging go on a sports route.

I can’t see how anyone can impose a limit on trad leads though. On big adventure pitches I have frequently been more than 2 hours on the lead - including it getting dark and/or the tide coming in on my belayer.

I think it’s my regular climbing partner’s willingness to put up with this without complaint that is a major factor in us climbing together for several years.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
My favourite belayer comment directed at a mate who took a particularly long shakeout (at least 20 min): 'This is like going fishing'.  :lol:

That is a great one!

Aussiegav

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 687
  • Karma: +30/-10
    • Climberbiker.
A bump. Just to get some more views from folks.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5400
  • Karma: +246/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
Depends on the temperature to some degree. 40 mins belaying before your Redpoint is just about manageable- unless it’s freezing cold, in which case your burn will be ruined. No hard and fast tule really, but you need to be fair to your partner.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal