Same happened to me, abbing off the Cordier pillar on the G Charmoz. Only difference was it had over hand knotted the very end of the rope, so basically the melted crust on end of rope was stopping it pulling through. Still get shivers thinking about it. I'd prussiced up it, I did use the spare 9mm as back up essentially leading on it, but may be stuck 2 cams in on the full rope length. This was all around pitch 16. A little flick when I got to belay and out it came
Having had lesser jams I am in the habit of ensuring I pull the strand nearer the rock as this has less potential to trap the rope between anchor and rock, which is the opposite of how it appears in your picture. This should also make it less likely to impart a twist to the final section of rope which is presumably what incited your knot.
On reaching it the next day they found that only the very end of the rope was stuck in the top of a crack. When you pull the full length of a dynamic rope to try and free it so much of the force of the pull must be lost in the stretch that you can fool yourself into thinking it’s stuck much more securely than it actually is I reckon.
3x so far in my "career"... always on steep abseils where the rope runs through very fast. On 2 occasions, just reclimbed the pitch on one strand. The third time, it was at Wendenstöcke on a separate abseil belay. Fortunately a team was just following behind, else we'd need to call the rescue.
Uncannily similar knots.
Pulled the ropes through a krab we had lowered off at the top and it tied it's self into a single fig 8 about 2 foot from the end
Quote from: macca7 on October 19, 2021, 10:24:34 amPulled the ropes through a krab we had lowered off at the top and it tied it's self into a single fig 8 about 2 foot from the endInteresting that they are not overhands. I wonder if the simpler knot is less likely to form, or less likely to set tight? Research project there for someone!