[Yossarian]

2 weeks

M - Wall. Tweaked LH deltoid warming up on something awkward. Had mini board session but it felt like it was getting worse, so decided to mess around on the fingerboard rather than write the whole evening off. Decided to try my other stronger side unassisted on the BM centre slot. Got extremely excited when I realised I could hang it - for about a second 2-3 times and then slightly less. I realise this is not 5sec, but I was 99.something kg that morning, with a target weight of 80-85, and wasn't expecting to hang it till I got quite a lot skinnier. Definitely feel I've made huge improvements in finger strength since mid 2020. It's just a pity they're attached to a fat inflexible person who lives in Hastings and goes outside about twice a year.
T - 5 mile run. Tried doing pull-up session but arm still sore. Did some stretching which I need to a lot more of.
W- 5 mile run, good stretching, mini core.
T - Wall. Best board session for a while - harder things I'd been trying felt slightly easier. Had some good goes on wooden problems downstairs - still trying to avoid blob pulling. 98.9kg
F - 5 mile run. Good long stretching sesh later.
S - Wall. Felt quite lethargic. Mini board session then some more fun stuff.
S

M - Wall. Worked out some new projects on the board, not sure what else.
T
W - 5 mile run
T
F
S - Wall, mainly fun stuff. Very big boozy night pm.
S - Urgh

Weight was down into the 98s end of 1st week, but much less training and a lot more eating and drinking 2nd week slightly undid that. Need a syke boost.

[cheque]

My experience of deltoid tweaks is that they can be a symptom of tight lats. No idea if that’s the case with yours Yoss but it might help somebody else if not.

[shark]

Definitely feel I've made huge improvements in finger strength since mid 2020. It's just a pity they're attached to a fat inflexible person who lives in Hastings and goes outside about twice a year.

Looking at it another way if you lived in Sheffield and climbed outside 5x a week you probably wouldn’t have made the same gains 

Well done on the hang. Well impressive. Massive buzz doing a benchmark like that.

[User deactivated.]

Definitely feel I've made huge improvements in finger strength since mid 2020. It's just a pity they're attached to a fat inflexible person who lives in Hastings and goes outside about twice a year.

Looking at it another way if you lived in Sheffield and climbed outside 5x a week you probably wouldn’t have made the same gains 

Well done on the hang. Well impressive. Massive buzz doing a benchmark like that.

one arming the BM edge at 100kg is probably about as strong as anyone in terms of absolute strength!

[Bradders]

Looking at it another way if you lived in Sheffield and climbed outside 5x a week you probably wouldn’t have made the same gains 

Well done on the hang. Well impressive. Massive buzz doing a benchmark like that.

Well done on the gainz and all that, but what on earth is the point if you can't deploy it on rock?

[Fiend]

Spoke like someone who is on the slippery slope from gainz to bouldering to sport and it will be ledge shuffling and "soul climbing" in a few years....

Looking at it another way if you lived in Sheffield and climbed outside 5x a week you probably wouldn’t have made the same gains 

You'd be great at lapping grit slabs though.... Or falling off at The Tor.

[Wellsy]

I live in Sheffield and I climb outside loads and I'm both weak and terrible at climbing on grit slabs, do I get a refund?

[cheque]

Did some max hangs cos felt lazy, got to doing 30kgs added weight on the BM2000 small edges for over 5 seconds and did three sets of that and the three sets of 3 finger drags on the same edges but with like 12kgs added weight.

I'm both weak

[Wood FT]

  He's got you there pal, we don't need any more Ste Mac crap going on.

[Bradders]

Spoke like someone who is on the slippery slope from gainz to bouldering to sport and it will be ledge shuffling and "soul climbing" in a few years....

I'm a dad now, making gainz in my shed is all I have!

[James Malloch]

James - good work with Launch Control.

Seconded, I find Launch Control nails for 7C, good work.

Cheers! I’ve nothing to compare it to but it definitely took a lot of effort.
Keen to try a few of the other bits around there (gleaming pinch, edge problem and suttys pinch) to compare to.

Of course I did my usual thing of getting stronger and then injuring myself 

Stopped climbing straight away when I noticed some pain on Monday after a few tries on something at Kilnsey so think I avoided anything too bad, but the diagnosis is a minor Sprain to the ring finger A2.

I’ve been prescribed density hangs by Andy (biscuit) which are feeling better already, and im allowed to go on the board if I take it easy and buddy up my ring and middle finger (though going to wait a bit before doing this).

Though if anyone has any good recommendations of things to work on whilst rehab is going on I’d be interested to hear it. I’ve got rings I never use, and parallet bars. Been for a few runs too.

Not too bothered about the injury, but more that I was enjoying having short sharp sessions lately and it would be good to have something else to focus on whilst I can’t go all out bouldering.

Any things to maybe try and aim to would be welcomed!

[Fiend]

Jamming.

(anything above finger-jamming ofc)

[Wellsy]

He's got you there pal, we don't need any more Ste Mac crap going on.

Called out 

Maybe cos I was training with some wad on the steep beastmaker board on Monday who made me feel like a piece of overcooked spaghetti, must try harder :D

[Fiend]

Maybe cos I was training with some wad on the steep beastmaker board on Monday who made me feel like a piece of overcooked spaghetti, must try harder on Conan The Librarian 

[dunnyg]

If rings or bar work is ok, working on front lever progressions is fairly power based and somewhat relevant for steep bouldering. Working on muscleups would be similar for me too, though if you can already smash loads out then perhaps not. Might help with slopey top outs.
A final suggestion is if (like me) you neglect flexibility, getting a decent stretching routine sorted, which you can carry on post injury, is also a good use of time.

[User deactivated.]

Though if anyone has any good recommendations of things to work on whilst rehab is going on I’d be interested to hear it. I’ve got rings I never use, and parallet bars. Been for a few runs too.

The grit will be called soon, so there's no need for fingers, just a whole lot of squeeze! I find general compound pushing exercises (dips, overhead press, bench press) way better for building strength in this area compared to ring fly's for example, which are usually prescribed for compression gains.

[Aussiegav]

M: climbed at Two Tier. Subterfuge. 2nd go after fluffed the start.
T: bouldering project session
W: 45min Peloton session
Th: rest
Fr: 45min Peloton session
Sat: bouldering project Session
Sun: In London For the next 6days.

[Fultonius]

Woops, missed this with being away.

Mon: TCA sesh, generally being careful for wrist and left hamstring/knee issue.
Tues: some rehab exercises
Weds: struggling to remember...
...
Fri:missed sesh due to working late and mixup over who was making dinner etc...
...
Sunday: Spent the day at Cambusbarron pootling about on a TR on Production Line, an E6 6c. Got all the moves after a few goes, but didn't link it cleanly. Si did, and then led it clean too. Will go back when feeling psyched and with a better choice of footwear. Nice to be out.