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Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021 (Read 6388 times)

shark

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Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 10, 2021, 05:21:24 pm
11.3-6 average 158.6 down 0.8lb

M. Still ill

T. Still ill

W. Getting properly better at last

T. Early am FB warm up. Tor with Nick. Foggy on the tops. Weirdly warm and muggy at the Tor. Felt chesty. Dogged up to AM headwall. Close to doing it in two halves. Fingers felt good - rest of me less so. Came down and felt woozy and decided a second tie in would be foolish. Nick stripped it and put a rope up Tin Of which was damp but sticky. Did it comfortably in a oner on top rope. Had a play on Bens Without and managed the 4 hardest moves in isolation. Happy with performance all things considered.

F.

S. Systems board. Warm up. Benchmark crusher crimp problem 2x back to back. Oak throw off crusher crimp. 2 sets AeroCap 20/10’s big holds for the 20’s incut edges for the 10’s

S.

Still not totally over this bastard cold. More Tor this week. 

Coops_13

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#1 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 10, 2021, 06:03:44 pm
M: DBC. Training Phase 1, week 4, session 1. Really good session. Warmups involving contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ hard flash). Max hangs 7/53 *9hangs 18mm +40lb. Mini project on some H- boulders, really hard. Moonboard for limit bouldering. 3 7A BM including one from four years ago, 4 6C+ BM and 1 6B+ BM. SST to finish

W: 100 press-ups

T: DBC. Training Phase 1, week 4, session 2. Less good session. Warmups involving contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ hard retroflash). Max hangs 7/53 *9hangs 18mm +40lb. Moonboard for 35 mins, 1 6C BM and 2 6C+ BM. A few laps on a 30 degree board circuit to finish

S: Hiked 3 miles into Camp Dick to finish off Put Some Hair Around It V8. Good forecast but showery when we arrived. Rain turned to hail turned to snow by the time we arrived at the boulder. Too wet. 3 mile hike back out then went to Boulder Canyon for some roadside boulders. Did a V4 then did Acrobatic Overhang, classic John Gill sandbag V5. Did a link-up Acro-Aerial V7 then the sit at V8. Nice session after the disappointment of the morning

duncan

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#2 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 10, 2021, 06:30:41 pm
M - Pull-ups. Shoulders conditioning: side planks focusing on end range stability; end range elevation, in prone; handstands.
T - Shoulders conditioning.
W - Portland with bridbeast. Warmed up and had three goes on Road Rage. Good to get on this after more than a year, however it felt hard after a summer of trad. climbing, minimal fingerboarding, and no bouldering. Managed to get onto the headwall with one rest and this should go in one next time if I can remember the beta. The headwall moves, on little three finger crimps, are a different matter and this will need some specific training and/or several more days of work.
T - Tired fingers. Shoulders conditioning.
F - Drove to Curbar and met up with HG in the evening. The Peak looked glorious. Warmed-up on Left Unconquerable. Desperate! Quashed plans to try anything harder. Did Toy in the semi-dark, the less said about this the better. Forearms still tired from Road Rage.
S - Hiked up through the woods from the Downes’ hut and did a green Downes’ crack (not easy), a greasy Cave Crack Indirect (also not easy), and a damp Brightside (not easy at all) via a gopping Swimmer’s Chimney (the living end). Fortunately Cave Crack proper had a stream running down it so it was easy not to be tempted. Regrouped with a Valkyrie Club inspired brew-up in the cave. Would Nat Allen have approved of a jetboil? The weather improved, crag dried out somewhat, and Three Pebble Slab, Tody’s Wall and CMC Slab were all more conventionally enjoyable. Drove home, tired.
S - Battered. Walked 7km-ish.



Good to be outside. Felt generally unfit and HG noted I’m still getting far more breathless on routes than pre-COVID. Not sure what I can do about this other than keeping at the general conditioning.

Enjoyed trying Road Rage again. It’s not soft and a bit too continuous to be ideally suited. On the other hand it’s great climbing, is in condition for much of the year, and it’s not hard to find people who want to climb in the area.

It’s quite notable how I’ve never managed anything harder than 7b (or 5.12b) although in my early days these were trad. so represent slightly better performance. It seems likely I’ll be mostly confined to training indoors for a couple of months starting shortly, in which case I do a good block of strength training which is probably what I most need to make progress.


Considering spending a month or so in Spain in January/February. Please get in touch if you have any contacts for accommodation (one room or more, ideally something outside more formal AirBnB arrangements) in the Tarragona or Valencia regions (happy to consider alternative suggestions).   

webbo

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#3 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 10, 2021, 07:15:41 pm
How long has Left Unconquerable been at Curbar.

James Malloch

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#4 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 10, 2021, 08:20:32 pm
M. Acro Yoga with my partner. Her friend runs a class in Skipton so I went along to give it a go. Was really good fun and not what I’m used to at all.

T. Shopping/Cooking/Chill

W. I had an invite to Will Hunt’s board and had a great session there. I thought his 40 degree would feel really hard compared to my 25, but I think the steep bouldering at Kilnsey has paid off a lot. Down graded one of his problems with some nice foot beta, flashed Mr Marks’ problem, added a cool problem and quickly climbed the “hardest” problem on the board. All in a days work. :clap2: Was really interesting to climb on someone else’s problems and board. The hard problem I did felt really quite fine for me - I was doing moves of it as part of my warm up. But then some of Will’s other “easier” problems shut me down. Was cool to see some of my strengths/weaknesses being shown up. Keen for some people to come and try stuff on my “slab” and see how it compares.

Some problems from the session: https://www.instagram.com/p/CUs-EH5jeVz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

T. Pub - sat out until fairly late with a beer and some tapas. Really nice evening.

F. Kilnsey after work. Warmed up on the board at home and was feeling really good. My old hardest problems felt the easiest they ever have. At Kilnsey I got back on Launch Control - put the pads out and just pulled on without any additional warm up. Held the pocket for the first time and then dropped going for the finishing jug due to my RH pinging off which has never happened before. Put it down to a bit smeggy conditions. Second go was crap. Third go I got my hand on the finishing jug but RH pinged again! On inspection a tick mark had been put on which wasn’t in the best part of the hold and I’d been aiming for that. Rest of my goes were a bit shit.

S. (Good day = long write up) My partner is in the last month of PhD write up so is now working some Saturdays - good excuse to get out early. I had a quick warm up on the board (felt even stronger than the day before - walked up some projects as part of my warm up) and went back to Kilnsey. Think I got to the pocket on my second go and the holds were feeling awful. But there was no way I was dropping it this time - fuck that. First 7C - Launch Control.  :great:

Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/CU2Oh57DlOX/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Moved onto trying Fingers of Fury (7B+). I tried this a month or so ago and found the first move really really hard, and then doing anything from that hold impossible. This time I pissed the move (didn’t need to consider using the intermediate holds even) and felt super strong on the hold. Next move is a throw to a pocket (if you get that i thing it’s basically over). Held it once with a two finger, one pad drag rather than 3 fingers + 3 pads, but dropped off. Needed too head off so it’s one to come back for. Felt very close in the 20 mins I spent trying it. Got to give some credit to Will here who reminded me on Wednesday that crimping hard is a thing (I’m a serial dragger).

Went for a walk/run after it up on Kilnsey Moor which was nice. Dog met/chased some grouse for the first time. He loved it but still came to the whistle thankfully…

Met a guy at the crag who lived around the corner from me who came around for a board session that evening. Really nice to have a social session with a beer. Climbed some Hard(ish) new problems and have some projects to go at too. Cracking day.

S. Lazy cafe breakfast today and then a chill at home. Did a nice 5/6 mile loop around Sharphaw from Flasby. Thought about a quick Kilnsey hit but think I’ll save that for tomorrow before the rain comes again.


Really nice week - good social things, more varied than normal and hardest problem I’ve done too. Last and only 7B+ was about 3 years ago too. Feeling really good at the moment and Keen to get on some sport again now after a few weeks of bouldering.

Wellsy

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#5 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 10, 2021, 08:25:42 pm
Monday - ill

Tuesday - mostly better. Did some max hangs cos felt lazy, got to doing 30kgs added weight on the BM2000 small edges for over 5 seconds and did three sets of that and the three sets of 3 finger drags on the same edges but with like 12kgs added weight.

Wednesday - went to Cratcliffe did Razor Roof 6C in about 4 goes by the light of a lamp, very happy, only like my 8th 6C of all time tbh so still of significance to me! Tried The Lark 6C+ some more and still struggling with it. Tbh I am not mega enthused. I'd really like to get on RZA roof 7A+ though!

Thursday - went out early to try Conan the Librarian 6B+ which is proving tricky for me, but I got higher on it. I don't hugely love the problem but hopefully will do it one day or another.

Friday - rested up

Saturday - big sessions indoors, depot circuit, works steep board. Felt battered. Some proper training!

Sunday- rested

mark20

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#6 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 10, 2021, 08:35:12 pm
max hangs cos felt lazy, got to doing 30kgs added weight on the BM2000 small edges for over 5 seconds and did three sets of that
......
did Razor Roof 6C in about 4 goes by the light of a lamp, very happy, only like my 8th 6C of all time
That is about 8A finger strength ?!

moose

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#7 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 07:49:12 am
max hangs cos felt lazy, got to doing 30kgs added weight on the BM2000 small edges for over 5 seconds and did three sets of that
......
did Razor Roof 6C in about 4 goes by the light of a lamp, very happy, only like my 8th 6C of all time
That is about 8A finger strength ?!

doubt it, I'm currently doing a max hang regime of 10s hangs off the small BM2000 edges with +34kg (working back from a broken wrist) and I'm a mid-7s punter.
« Last Edit: October 11, 2021, 08:05:50 am by moose »

abarro81

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#8 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 07:58:32 am
You forgot about the +30kgs though...

I'd say that sounds roughly in the 8A zone, though it depends a lot on the individual beastmaker (I remember going to the works and suddenly being able to do repeaters on what was a max hang grip on my home set-up; my joy at my progression was short lived when I tried again at home a few days later  :lol:)

moose

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#9 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 08:06:25 am
You forgot about the +30kgs though...

I'd say that sounds roughly in the 8A zone, though it depends a lot on the individual beastmaker (I remember going to the works and suddenly being able to do repeaters on what was a max hang grip on my home set-up; my joy at my progression was short lived when I tried again at home a few days later  :lol:)

oops.. I forgot to include the +34kg... edited it now.

Wellsy

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#10 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 08:14:16 am
max hangs cos felt lazy, got to doing 30kgs added weight on the BM2000 small edges for over 5 seconds and did three sets of that
......
did Razor Roof 6C in about 4 goes by the light of a lamp, very happy, only like my 8th 6C of all time
That is about 8A finger strength ?!

Apparently my fingers are just quite strong. I don't know why, when I started climbing in the middle of 2019 they were regular piss weak, but somehow in the intervening time they just got there.

I'm not very good at climbing technically and I'm physically not that strong due to inexperience etc. So my max grade ever is still 7A+. It's why I think it's funny when people say that strong fingers alone just propel you up the grades, they really don't. They're just a prereq for everything else.

abarro81

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#11 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 08:55:22 am
oops.. I forgot to include the +34kg... edited it now.

Unsurprisingly, I reckon we can conclude that being strong on 2 arm dangling is not a limiting factor in your climbing!

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#12 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 09:44:13 am
M - am: max hangs in half crimp and open crimp, minimal edge half crimp and full crimp
pm: limit session on the board. Managed to do a 3 move problem that uses 8-10mm edges for the first time.

T - front lever pulls, ring turn out dips, ring muscle ups, iron cross progressions, dragon flags, glute ham raises.

W - Bike track day. Amazing!

T - Struggled through my warm ups on the board and ended the session early. Too tired from riding all day yesterday.

F - rest

S - max hangs in half crimp and 3 finger drag, minimal edge half crimp and full crimp, wrist wrench

S - Church crag. First session on rock in a couple of weeks, and I hadn't been on top of my antihydral use, so unsurprisingly I began to split pretty quickly. Taped up and didn't manage to get much done except hook ups and link ups, and also managed the hard sit moves to it via a brutally shoulder intensive sequence, but no link. Played on a pinch hitter variation for a while that eliminates the pinch (pinch misser?), but couldn't latch the good edge.

one armers and handstand pressups in the evening.

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#13 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 09:51:19 am
James - good work with Launch Control.

M - Rest. Stretching (30 mins).

T - Rest.

W - LPT. Psyche was high after last session but conditions turned out to be awful. Tweaked crux beta on Mussel Beach (again!) and had a couple of redpoints. All matching my high point of going for the crimp off the pillar (even holding it briefly) which I’ll take given the slippiness. Getting my arse absolutely handed to me by this thing but really enjoying it still. Not sure I’ll be able to get it finished off this year though.

T - Rest. Run (30 mins).

F - Boardroom. Campusing, a bit on the campus board itself and then on some easy juggy problems. Dips. Circuit board, 6 x 6b into 6c with 5-8 minutes rest. Pumped out on the last move of the last rep, perfect.

S - Citybloc. Over in Yorkshire seeing the folks so thought I’d revisit the old haunt. It’s been through a bit of a transformation since I was last there. A fun couple of hours playing on yellows/purples and even some of the comp problems. Feeling very tired.

S - Orienteering at Plumpton Rocks. Used to do a lot of this when I was younger so it was good to pick up a map and razz round a very cool little area. A bit like Brimham on the edge of a lake. Would be some good DWS if it wasn’t private land!

Booked to go to Leonidio for a couple of weeks at the end of the month, so hopefully get some pump-inducing sessions in over the next few weeks.

Will Hunt

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#14 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 10:17:39 am
M - board with Sam. Set and climbed Captain Comfort Zone, named in honour of David Warburton. I don't feel like I've been going hell for leather on the board yet. Hoping to remain uninjured.

W - James came over for a board sesh. Played around on old problems. James did very well on the pinches - something of an eye opener into how bad I am on them. Did his new problem.

Su - Went to Langcliffe and found most things had some damp bits on. I expect it would have dried back by the end of the day. Bailed to Malham which we'd tried to avoid due to the sunny forecast. Very hot when we arrived but this did mean that most routes on the left-hand side dried back. Thus ensued a very long warm up of Begozi, Whodunnit, Last Waltz (a great addition to the 7a+ circuit now that the stupid runout has been fixed), and an onsight go on the retroed Seventh Toad. Fucking hell, that's thin! There are monos on it which are 'thank God' holds! By late afternoon it had cooled enough to stick clip up Main Overhang and remind myself of the moves, then a final top rope go. Need to get the start slick and figure out the clips.

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 10:21:15 am
STG - get a bit of fitness back for holiday
MTG - hill running mission, Dava Way Ultra in late Nov
LTG - local projects

M - Walk, some fingerboarding
T - Some weights, physio for ankle
W - Light board session, skin sore
T - fingerboarding, walk
F - drive to East Lothian
S - early start for 50km John Muir Way Ultra. First half went fine, felt OK, mostly flat and nice temp, 2 1/2hrs to midpoint. beach section and steep climb out of N Berwick pretty sapping and got past the Law before rain started. Got pretty grim by Balgone Estate at which point jacket and cap on as was getting cold. Steady downhill felt OK but last section was a narrow muddy path, really sapping mentally and physically. Ankle really sore for last 5 km, but hobbled in for 5:12:42. Glad to have finally got one done after illness and pandemics had stopped me for 2 years.

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#16 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 10:54:41 am
LTG: New (to me) Font 7a outdoors


M: Still recovering from mad flu thing picked up previous week
T: Nowt - felt better, back to work, and into new company office in Leeds for a meet-up / beers after
W: Regretted overdoing it the night before
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Cracking weather on a pre-arranged pass out - even the fucking lottery etc.


Went to Brimham with Nathaniel to give him a tour of the Dirty Dozen offwidth experience.


Great day out tussling, struggling. Took a while to get back into the offwidth vibe but remembered how to do it eventually. High point was leading Desperation Crack, which I'd seconded years back and always meant to go back on the sharp end for. A proper adventure, and a real fight at the top!

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#17 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 12:24:49 pm
it's funny when people say that strong fingers alone just propel you up the grades, they really don't. They're just a prereq for everything else.

It’s the same reductionist attitude that brought us the film Happy Gilmore. A chilling warning from history.

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#18 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 12:37:07 pm
James - good work with Launch Control.

Seconded, I find Launch Control nails for 7C, good work.

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#19 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 12:38:59 pm
M - rest

Tu - half hour on the board. Did my normal warm up and then a couple of my warm up problems on new bad feet.

W - hour on the board. Did a few of my warm ups on the bad feet again, plus tried one of my harder ones and dropped the last move, then had one go each on my 3 ongoing projects. On the first, had my best go ever, linking the crux move through to the top. Never done that before. Considering it took my c. 4/5 sessions just to do that move I was chuffed. The other two were good as well, very nearly did one of them, and just didn't make the crux move on the other.

Th - rest, shattered from very poor night's sleep.

F - rest

Sa - fingerboard, 4x 10s half crimp 26mm edge, 3 min rests, +37kg.

Su - out to Church Crag with Liam. An inauspicious venue for my first session on rock since becoming a father, but it was quick and easy and sociable at least. After warming up had a few goes at The Shield and was quickly reminded why I haven't been back to it before. Such a knacky move on it. Sacked it and tried, then did, Hook Ups and Link Ups in a few goes, and first time I stuck the crux move of Shield RH. Actually a very good problem with some good movement. Felt great to get to the top of something new too. Had some haphazard attempts at a few other things but I'd really used up all my energy by this point so happily called it early.

James Malloch

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#20 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 12:48:00 pm
James - good work with Launch Control.

Seconded, I find Launch Control nails for 7C, good work.


Cheers! I’ve nothing to compare it to but it definitely took a lot of effort.
Keen to try a few of the other bits around there (gleaming pinch, edge problem and suttys pinch) to compare to.

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#21 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 03:23:51 pm
Good work on Launch Control James!

M - rest
T - Arginonta Valley. Few 6's on the right wall to warm up the went up to the rock and roll cave - most routes busy but one of the classic 7c's free (Teo Arginonta) so got on that. Ok onsight go but realistically not that close, worked it out and went ok first redpoint.
W - Poets, couple of easy slabs first then over to Zeus - mates had the clips in the classic Rocklandis (7b) pleased to onsight this. Did the ace tufa of Pipe Cleaner (7b) OS too, putting the clips in this time. End of the day went round to watch Remus on his project, and was persuaded to try an OS of Themelina (7b+). Very bouldery route, misread the start of the hard section and slipped off. Ok next go.
T - Secret Garden. Great crag! 6's on the left to warm up, then flashed Dirlanda (7b+) putting the clips in. Really chuffed with this, was a good fight through the crux, then amazing sit down rest on a tufa, and bit of a battle onsighting the top half. Big rest then had a flash go on Kaly Diva (7c) good beta got me to the last hard move, but not quite through it. Ok next go.
F - rest
S - Sikati Beach, back for gf to try a lovely flowstone wall, Tomboy, but there was a couple more routes for me too. Sadly made no realistic impression on either of them, managed the (very thin) crux moves of Four Years (7c+) in isolation, but couldn't link anything together in the heat. In the end sacked it to preserve skin. Then couldn't get past the third bolt on Apollo's Miracle (7b+) so threw toys out of the pram and went for a lovely swim instead.
S - Odyssey. Remus had made Orion (7c+) look so casual last week I was keen for a go. Warmed up on Calipso (6c+), maybe a bit hard, got slightly flash pumped in right arm. No clips in Orion so not optimistic on flash, got a couple of moves into the boulder problem but not close. Worked out the moves fine, then two redpoint goes dropping the last rh the move to a poor edge. Pulled back up after 2nd rp and found slight beta tweak which makes the rh move much more controlled at the expense of one extra hand and one extra foot move. Hopefully enough to make the difference if I get back up there this trip. Was a bit knackered but a mate had draws in Alfredo Alfredo (7b+) and wasn't going to try it again that day so got the full spray down from Remus and managed to flash it. Excellent end to the day.

?kg

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#22 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 11, 2021, 03:58:08 pm
Power Club

Mon - gym. EMOM cleans 70/75 kg x25. Weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - 20' weights session.
Thu - 20' weights session.
Fri - PE; boxing bag and 2 tabatas.
Sat - loaded carries.
Sun - BM back and mid2; some PE; hill sprints and stairs.



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#23 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 12, 2021, 10:49:34 am
M - Indoor climbing. Shoulder stability/warm up, one arm hangs, campus progressions. Tried my 4x4 boulder I had set last week. Managed 3 sets of 3s. I guess my power endurance is pretty poor atm.

T - Trail running 13.69km 428m.

W - Travelling to Kalymnos.

T - Secret Garden. Amazing crag and conditions. I must have seen you there Duma!? Warmed up on a 7a+, did a tufa 7c+ onsight that felt 7b+ and tried an amazing 8a. Fluffed the first redpoint high up and then it was time to go.

F - Rest + swimming.

S - Poets. Terrible conditions. Ended up aiding up the 7a warm up after not being able to hold some of the holds as they were so greasy (this may have been a 7b+ apparently but still...). Tried a 7b+ which I fired off violently just above the second bolt. I had heard my belayer flirting outrageously with two Swiss ladies next to us so I assumed I was going to deck. Luckily he can multi-task though and I came to a stop just above the ground! Pulled back on and climbed to the top. Did a 7a and put the draws in the 8a extension. This had tough moves but they were separated by good rests. Managed to get up this 1st RP despite a bit of a fight with the grease.

S - Summertime. Did a 7a and 7a+ to warm up. Then tried a very bouldery 7c+ in a cave (not what I came to Kaly for). Did that 3rd go and finished on a nice 7b+ wall climb that was like climbing soap (1st RP).

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#24 Re: Power Club 604 4-10 Oct 2021
October 12, 2021, 12:56:08 pm
Late, late, late...

M: Travel to Kalymnos
T: Try to rent a scooter and fail - few 6's on Trois Illots with GF in the sun... Phew!
W: Poets - OS up to F6c
T: Symplegades - OS up to F6c+
F: Rest and belay GF - Put rope in an exposed F5c+ for her
S: Spartan Wall - Stick clip up Leonidas (F7a+/b) to warm up (was worried it was wet and that I'd lose the route if I got on summat else), stupidly decided not to try the moves on the way down and opt for a go on a TR after lunch... Only bloody flash it! Sun was coming round so went for a RP without enough rest and droped the last move  :wall: Serious tactical error! Ahh well, next time.....
S: Ghost Kitchen - F6b mileage day... Was tired but had a fucking amazing time just cruising.... Paradise!

Not setting the world alight but having a great time... F7a+ is definitely on for the OS again and should at least get the odd F7b done with a little work... Got my eye on a few F7a's to onsight too and just loving the juggy 6's... Nice!

 

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