UKBouldering.com

What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a (Read 2441 times)

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2802
  • Karma: +135/-3
What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a
October 05, 2021, 10:48:01 am
Incredible looking new route done by Robbie Phillips:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUpAQAvMVPy/?utm_medium=copy_link

That headwall makes me want to take up trad climbing. Stunning looking thing.

Second ascent immediately after by Dave MacLeod. For some reason I thought Dave had already done it last year, but that must have been just a top rope link.

Cue big debate about the grade and tactics?

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2588
  • Karma: +168/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#1 Re: What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a
October 05, 2021, 10:56:46 am

Second ascent immediately after by Dave MacLeod. For some reason I thought Dave had already done it last year, but that must have been just a top rope link.

Yeah D Mac was waiting very patiently for Robbie to do the FA

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2802
  • Karma: +135/-3
#2 Re: What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a
October 05, 2021, 10:59:55 am
Ah okay. I remember being amazed by how completely piss Dave made it look, whilst Robbie couldn't do some of the moves. Having seen Robbie climb he's not shit!

edshakey

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 540
  • Karma: +29/-0
#3 Re: What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a
October 05, 2021, 12:31:24 pm
That headwall makes me want to take up trad climbing.

No need. Safe fall = sport. Go get it!

GazM

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 535
  • Karma: +29/-0
    • Highland ramblings
#4 Re: What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a
October 05, 2021, 12:43:04 pm
If I recall correctly there had been questions about this part of the crag and whether it would be a suitable location for a sport line or two since it was so steep and (on initial acquaintance) fairly gearless. Very cool to see that this idea was dismissed and they took the more uncertain road of hard but safe trad.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13439
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#5 Re: What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a
October 05, 2021, 12:47:03 pm
What We Do in the Shadows F8c (not R, or R- at most)
Fixed that for you  ::) ::) ::) :sick: :shit:

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5784
  • Karma: +623/-36
#6 Re: What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a
October 05, 2021, 12:54:22 pm
Good to see my E-grade list holding true.. :smart:

scragrock

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 324
  • Karma: +45/-0
#7 Re: What We Do in the Shadows E10 7a
October 08, 2021, 11:57:53 am
I was up at DunT a couple of days later and caught up with Robbie and Dave.

Robbie {with his tongue firmly in his cheek} explained that they had both topped the route but his dramatic Dyno ending was a far better way to complete the route.


It is without question a significant and extraordinary line and a Mega test piece for hard trad in Scotland.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal