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Best 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland (Read 20619 times)

Wicamoi

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Fine effort at a list, but there clearly remains scope for further honing when, for example, the one-and-not-even-any-good-move-wonder of Reiver's Logic appears for Lednock while the puzzling, aesthetic delight of Afraid of the Wave remains on the bench.

Pushme Poolewe is too good to be absent. Spanking the Monkey is excellent but belongs to a list of 6th grade problems - we've all climbed harder 5A slabs in Font - but Monkey Spanking is good enough, and just about hard enough, to replace it. Meanwhile Slap Happy does not belong on any list at all, but should be stored inside, shame-facedly, next to ones first botched attempt at a campus board.

I don't expect anyone to agree with me though!

PlainCroi$$ant

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Agree with Reiver’s Logic/Afraid of the Wave

tc

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Keep It Unreal is a much better problem than Reiver's Logic. One of the best at Lednock.

JackMcKechnie

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It's maybe worth mentioning that Broadsword at Glen Massan is on the list but I don't think it is really the same as when Dave MacLeod first did it. I went to try it this summer and it looked to me like a lot of it had broken. Maybe I was trying to climb the wrong line but Rapier breaks here:



and Rapier and Broadsword share holds. I reckoned it was still possible to get up what I thought was Broadsword but maybe it’s not as good as it was in the past. Can't see anywhere that anyone's done it after Dave Mac to tell but maybe someone on here knows more.

Stewart

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Good knowledge Jack. I'll remove Broadsword then, looks like an opening for 'If not know when' or 'Pushme Poolewe' as i don't see anything else at Glen Massan to replace it.

Will also swap reviers logic but there's a chance i might head to glen lednock on sat so i'll have a look at the two other contenders!






GazM

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Given that Pushme-Poolewe has had quite a few repeats and there seems seems be a general concensus on its quality it might be a better addition.
However, if If Not Now does get chosen it will need putting on UKC. Or maybe not. It could be like the inclusion of The Scoop in Hard Rock to make it really hard to complete the list. A complete unknown that no-one can ever find.

Fiend

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A complete unknown that no-one can ever find.
Sounds like the general state of play about 90% of Scottish bouldering (and information) when I was exiled up there!!

GazM

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If too many people know where stuff is they'll keep it too clean and I'll have to give up my wire-brushing habit. Can't have that.

unclesomebody

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I've just come across this thread again and was thinking of questing out somewhere for a few days on my own. Where can I get a topo for rooftown? A pm or a pointer would be appreciated.

Fultonius

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Not sure if there's much online. Stone Country guides will have the Strathnairn bit covered (not go it).

SA Chris

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This needs a book like Dave Parry's Grit Blocs. Some amazing aesthetic lines in beautiful locations.

Fiend

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 :agree: , with the same breadth of scope.

scragrock

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The Strathnairn guide has been pushed back, looking at sometime late in 2023, it will have full details/maps/topo's of Rooftown and other new areas :). In the meantime please make do with UKC online guides and my Vimeo.

https://vimeo.com/user17129921

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rooftownruadha_nan_eallachan-25517/#overview

Thomnomnom

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Suggestions:

Replace the Glen Pean Mystery Climb with something from here: . Maybe Line Snatcher 7A (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/glen_pean-30000/line_snatcher-661888).

Stick Vanguard (https://youtu.be/seXTKpkuyYY?t=111) on the list. It's better than Le Toit du Cul de Mouton (I like Lady Sam better than Le Toit for the roadside stuff too).
The Shield SS at St Bride's Wall is another contender for the Central Highlands, arguably better than the Zealot which I found underwhelming. Probably debatable.

Reiterating that If Not Now () should be on the list. It's on UKC too now because I've actually done it. Possibly bumps the Dagger or Reptile Dysfunction?
Seven A,B,C might also sneak in ahead of either of those if you can tolerate the glue?

SA Chris

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(https://youtu.be/seXTKpkuyYY?t=111) on the list. It's better than Le Toit du Cul de Mouton (I like Lady Sam better than Le Toit for the roadside stuff too).


Had a look across at these on the way up to Tolmont / Tom Buidhe with the family, looks like a good cluster. Did you take the detour? Justification for an E-bike?

scragrock

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Suggestions:

Replace the Glen Pean Mystery Climb with something from here: . Maybe Line Snatcher 7A (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/glen_pean-30000/line_snatcher-661888).

Stick Vanguard (https://youtu.be/seXTKpkuyYY?t=111) on the list. It's better than Le Toit du Cul de Mouton (I like Lady Sam better than Le Toit for the roadside stuff too).
The Shield SS at St Bride's Wall is another contender for the Central Highlands, arguably better than the Zealot which I found underwhelming. Probably debatable.

Reiterating that If Not Now () should be on the list. It's on UKC too now because I've actually done it. Possibly bumps the Dagger or Reptile Dysfunction?
Seven A,B,C might also sneak in ahead of either of those if you can tolerate the glue?

Yup, defo take those out and also Span Commander.

Thomnomnom

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Had a look across at these on the way up to Tolmont / Tom Buidhe with the family, looks like a good cluster. Did you take the detour? Justification for an E-bike?

Yeah it's good up there! E-bike would be great if the forestry roads are ever clear, was horrendous with downed trees when I went up though!


Yup, defo take those out and also Span Commander.

Scragrock, I don't know if you're being sarcastic - BSP is one of the best in Strathnairn!

SA Chris

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Yeah it's good up there! E-bike would be great if the forestry roads are ever clear, was horrendous with downed trees when I went up though!


We walked that way end of August and it was fine, in fact we wished we'd taken the kids bikes up as far as the bridge on the diverted route.

scragrock

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Had a look across at these on the way up to Tolmont / Tom Buidhe with the family, looks like a good cluster. Did you take the detour? Justification for an E-bike?

Yeah it's good up there! E-bike would be great if the forestry roads are ever clear, was horrendous with downed trees when I went up though!


Yup, defo take those out and also Span Commander.

Scragrock, I don't know if you're being sarcastic - BSP is one of the best in Strathnairn!

Yeah Stu is a Cunt{take it down ;D}

Sid will NOT dry unless you clean the gutter......

Give me a shout if you need a hand drying the south east east face

 

Stewart

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On holiday at the moment but will do some updates when I get back.  Currently dodging showers to nip up Pagan Uillean which is worthy of the list,  although I thought pagan direct was even better.  Shame its eliminate!

scragrock

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On holiday at the moment but will do some updates when I get back.  Currently dodging showers to nip up Pagan Uillean which is worthy of the list,  although I thought pagan direct was even better.  Shame its eliminate!

Urrrg...Fort Bill aint the best place to be at the moment Stew, Sunday might be an ok day :-\

Have you ventured over to Arisaig Cave before?, its permadry ;D

Alex-the-Alex

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Yeah Ive found it tricky finding dry stuff in glen nevis in this weather.. maybe the picnic block? I hear the left arete is good  ;)

It reminds me, Sine Wave up at the pine Alps is brill in the 7s, but so rarely done it's probably under moss by now.. and getting down off the boulder alone is pretty sketchy, especially when damp!

The coastal bouldering spots on Mull would be good bets in this weather. They dry really fast. As does the Brandy Stone in Oban.

Stewart

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Urrrg...Fort Bill aint the best place to be at the moment Stew, Sunday might be an ok day :-\

Have you ventured over to Arisaig Cave before?, its permadry ;D

Family holiday.  Just sneaking in a few quick sessions while the kids are having pizza and film! Managed an hour on heather hat a few days ago and a quick session on cameron stone today.  That's a decent result for family holiday!

scragrock

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Urrrg...Fort Bill aint the best place to be at the moment Stew, Sunday might be an ok day :-\

Have you ventured over to Arisaig Cave before?, its permadry ;D

Family holiday.  Just sneaking in a few quick sessions while the kids are having pizza and film! Managed an hour on heather hat a few days ago and a quick session on cameron stone today.  That's a decent result for family holiday!

Yeah i thought that, good effort despite the damph :P

As for Top 100 updates, i would scrap all mine and Stu's lines and let the deserving moss and lichens reclaim what is rightfully theirs.

Safe journey home and give me a shout if you want to try some new shite Strathnairn stone.

SA Chris

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Family holiday.  Just sneaking in a few quick sessions while the kids are having pizza and film! Managed an hour on heather hat a few days ago and a quick session on cameron stone today.  That's a decent result for family holiday!

My FW holiday this time last year I struck out totally, didn't touch rock. Boards at 3WM got a hammering. Rafting is fun on a minging day though.

 

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