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Best 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland (Read 26556 times)

SA Chris

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Your Roadside Boulder looks like a scaled up version of a wee prob I cleaned up and climbed on lunchtime "runs" in Kingshill Wood near Kingswells. It's not classic and not 7 though!

Stewart

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OK but you have been warned....i have been told off in the past for my choices and widely inaccurate grading :shrug:

Barry Valley

Hissing Sid 7a ish
Butch and Sundance 7a ish

Rooftown

Slot machine extention 7a ish 
BFGeezus probably a 7 
Flight of the Phoenix might be a 7 just cause of the grovelling mantle and hand jam  there are certainly others that deserve 3 stars and a best in Scotland mention in and around Strathnairn its just a shame they are in a lower grade category.

Hissing sid certainly looks excellent.
Which would you propose are better or are as good as the current Barry Valley and Rooftown incumbents on the list though? Barry Span and Reptile Dysfunction. Ted has proposed Negative Prog back on.. obviously there is never going to be consensus and you could easily do a top 200 problems. 

I'll let someone else do the top 100 6th grade problems, i've spent enough time on this. Or maybe just start a new thread and people can contribute for their localities.

andy_e

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I'll let someone else do the top 100 6th grade problems, i've spent enough time on this. Or maybe just start a new thread and people can contribute for their localities.

Too late, I already started one... https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31540.0.html

scragrock

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I would put them all back on then start eliminating when you get consensus over time....Maybe  :shrug:

As far as actually visiting {as i know you might be pushed for time Stew} Barry Span is a must do and is probably the closest bloc to the road in Strathnairn.

With this logic i would forego Rooftown {unless you have a guide  ;) } and stick to the easier to get to venues. you really cant go wrong at Ruthven + the temps are just getting good :2thumbsup:

Stewart

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I will def give Barry S a go, is it the same side of the road as split boulder? (right if you're driving North?). My plan other than that was to try and get to Ruthven Boulder and maybe the Farr boulder. Will give you a shout when i'm allowed out!

scragrock

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Yeah Barry is Northside of the road Big split is Southside but its so close you can do both easily in a quick circuit.

Good stuff :2thumbsup:

Teddyc

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This is such a good list, can't help but get involved!

Interesting that Malky made it, great move but personally would think Mestizo SS, Consolidated, The Shield or even Nice and Sleazy (part malky whoops) would all nip in before.

I actually stick a vote back on Negative Progression for Rooftown, thought it was well good. Has Reptile had a repeat yet?

You should get involved as you've contributed a fair few of these problems i believe.
I thought Negative Progression looked great, the jury is still out on Rooftown then!
Malky is one of my favourite problems anywhere, great moves, good height, very droppable last couple of moves. Mestizo arete, it's good but it's just a couple of moves into the awkward 6A stand, first move is extremely morpho.
Nice and Sleazy is great but it is essentially a link up. The Shield and consolidated....really??

Fair play, sold on Malky then, it is indeed a great problem  ;D

Teddyc

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Interesting Ted, i thought you weren't that enamoured with Neg Prog.
As for Reptile...that question opens up another can of worms, If a problem has only seen 1 or 2 repeats does it deserve 3 stars or a place on the list?
If you believe that problems need many repeats to get a rounded appraisal on its grade and quality then you automatically remove many of the current problems on the list. Screapadal Prow on Raasay is a perfect example of this, i think it has seen maybe 1 repeat but Dave swears it is one of the best boulders of its type anywhere in the UK.{ or do we just trust Dave cause its Dave? }

Not sure what the best approach on this is but i have certainly Not put any of mine forward as they have seen few or No repeats and i fear my in built bias for certain styles or lines would end badly.

Be interested to see folks thoughts on this :-\

Aha nah thought it was great, felt like the natural line of the block for me. Probs gave that impression cos it felt impossible for a few hours.

I forgot about Butch and Sundance, was the best prob in Barry Valley imo

scragrock

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yup i struggled with Neg Prog Too but your right it is a proud line.

Sid is better than Butch imo

Thomnomnom

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A few good problems at the newish Drumore as well - Flow State (7A) and Blood Eagle (7Bishhhh). Expect Flow State will become a classic.

andy moles

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Malky is one of my favourite problems anywhere, great moves, good height, very droppable last couple of moves. Mestizo arete, it's good but it's just a couple of moves into the awkward 6A stand, first move is extremely morpho.

That's funny, I always found Malky equally morpho to Mestizo (I'm average height). And Malky is hardly a king line, isn't it basically a way of making Mugsy harder?

SA Chris

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A few good problems at the newish Drumore as well - Flow State (7A) and Blood Eagle (7Bishhhh). Expect Flow State will become a classic.

Keen to check it out, drive wise it looks about the same to get to as Clova from Aberdeenshire.

Is there much ungraded / easy stuff? Doesn't have to be high, but be good for the kids to have something to try / scramble about on.

Thomnomnom

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I think there's plenty of scope for pottering about on some of the boulders below the main jumble (maybe Bracken Boulder or Warm Up Boulder, looking at UKC) and there are some good, albeit tall, problems in the lows 6s (Neanderfall especially but I wouldn't recommend if for kids!). It's not the easiest terrain for romping about though, because of the rocky/heather hillside and the odd pit - probably awkward for very wee kids but I'm no expert!

Flow State is very good though and could probably replace one of the Weem probs on the list.

SA Chris

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Cheers, they are 9 and 12, but neither are ready for anything in the 6es.

Stewart

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Flow State is very good though and could probably replace one of the Weem probs on the list.

Done!

Stewart

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Malky is one of my favourite problems anywhere, great moves, good height, very droppable last couple of moves. Mestizo arete, it's good but it's just a couple of moves into the awkward 6A stand, first move is extremely morpho.

That's funny, I always found Malky equally morpho to Mestizo (I'm average height). And Malky is hardly a king line, isn't it basically a way of making Mugsy harder?

Well possibly but I'm going to pull rank for the first time and say.. its my list,  Malky is in!

Stewart

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A quick few thoughts from my week in strathnairn.  I was camping with family so limited to quick hits.
First night I had one hour so decided to go for barry span commander.  Arrived just as it was getting dark and was very glad to unexpectedly meet Scragrock. Did it twice (very ungracefully the 1st time) to confirm it is indeed worthy of its inclusion.
Last night I went up to Ruthven after kids were bedded. I'd been once before 8 years ago (climbed slippery slope as everything else was wet) so knew there was a path up but missed it in the pitch black and had an unpleasant stomp up through the grass and bogs.  Decided to warm up trying the moves on the dude and promptly flashed it and had a sketchy scary windy top out in the dark with only light from my dim headtorch as I'd left the lantern off to preserve battery  :badidea:

After that did Dude left hand,  Big lebowski,  cheeky girls,  razors edge,  Barry manilow and finally called it a night when the skin started failing on B Manilower and the lantern started to flicker. 
Brilliant session,  with atmospheric deer rutting noises and great problems. 

Dude is definitely top 100 6th grade.  Cheeky girls was entirely forgetful.
Razors edge is absolutely brilliant,  much better than Big Leb. Not quite sure why the latter enjoys classic status. Barry ManilowER would also be worthy of top 100 status even though slightly eliminate, the crimp is really sharp though!
Hopefully get one more session somewhere tomorrow before heading home.

scragrock

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Well done on getting out Stew and im glad you enjoyed Ruthven.

i do agree that Lebowski is overrated and imo over graded. I still Love Cheeky Girls as its so adaptable if your in a big group and want everyone to have fun on the same problem{ like Egg arete at Cratcliff}

Couldn't agree more re Razor's, it should get a much better rep than it does. I don't even like Razors but that's cause im crap at crimps. Still think its 3***s.

I would agree with Manalower, much like Achilies there is an element of Eliminate about it despite the excellent moves and for this reason Not 3***s

Fingers crossed for tomorrow, i fear a lot of areas will be damp unfortunately 

Fiend

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HaHa im less sold on Razor's edge

Yeah so it looks like this so far-
Ruthven
•   Cheeky girls
•   Builders butt
•   Barry
•   The Dude
•   Lebowski
•   Bitch slap
•   QED
•   Rock n Roll

Couldn't agree more re Razor's, it should get a much better rep than it does. I don't even like Razors but that's cause im crap at crimps. Still think its 3***s.

 :-\ :???: ;D

(just teasin')

scragrock

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HaHa im less sold on Razor's edge

Yeah so it looks like this so far-
Ruthven
•   Cheeky girls
•   Builders butt
•   Barry
•   The Dude
•   Lebowski
•   Bitch slap
•   QED
•   Rock n Roll

Couldn't agree more re Razor's, it should get a much better rep than it does. I don't even like Razors but that's cause im crap at crimps. Still think its 3***s.

 :-\ :???: ;D

(just teasin')

Holy Shit :o Someone who actually pays attention....Well pointed out Mat and apologies. I should have fought harder for Razors despite the fact i don't actually like it.   

Good Accountability Mat....and kudos for sniffing out the shit.....i am scorned :-[   

SA Chris

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I agree with Cheeky Girls being meh. It may be all things to all people, but doesn't make it a good problem.

Plus it's often damp green and mungy in that corner of the boulder.

andy moles

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My logbook tells me I've done Razor's Edge, yet I don't have any strong memory of it, whereas I do remember really enjoying Big Lebowski...

Just for the sake of a different point of view!

Thomnomnom

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Yeah I really liked Big Lebowski. Even though it's a bit traversy the rail is just a beautiful feature made for climbing.

Thought that Gaz's If Not Now could be another contender for the list, always thought it looked amazing and shouldn't get forgotten because it's remote:


Fiend

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It's all good fun Scragrock  :yes: The main thing that's coming out from these 3 threads is the level of quality and diversity of problems scattered all over Scotland, and the level of psyche for them (including from non-Scots)!

Stewart

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I saw that vid just the other day Thom.  Yeah it looks well good.

Got to Duntelchaig today and tried Benjys Cotton block problems.  Can confirm the massive 6B (+!) lip is total class with a sketchy top out.  Tried the 7B which i originally put on the list and failed (tired, skin,  kids,  weakness  :P ) but it does feel well good also. Could easily be on there.   Had a brilliant scramble with the boys in and around the caves under the crags too.
Also anyone bitchin' about closed projects around here should just walk another ten meters and find their own project.  SO Much unclimbed rock.

 

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