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Best 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland (Read 20623 times)

jwi

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For any site using user-created data, be it facebook, instagram or 8a.nu, the platform must allow users to download the data they have added to the platform in a usable format. This is covered by GDPR and is the law.

I have made an habit to download all the information I upload to sites like 27crags or ukclimbing from time to time to have a local back-up. I have been burned before...

I am currently trying to download all my old photos from flickr. They are not responding to my requests which makes me worry that they are about to go...

jwi

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BTW - I'm in no way trying to ram 27Crags through as "the default" I just pine for some kind of open community based thing where we own our own data, but have access to tools (topo making, databases) that makes life easier.

I'd happily go out and spend time documenting stuff for free.

P.S. You can print 27Crags etc. just like a PDF for your analogue tactile paper types....

Could be worth it to check out thecrag.com as well?

Bonjoy

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Ideal scenario would be something like-
Bleau.info/Peakbouldering.info and a UKC rating and logbook library kind of thing with a companion Guidebook{for us oldies} and OCD moderators who constantly update without agenda.


I'd be careful what you wish for! Peakbouldering.info has gone down with little prospect of reappearing it would seem. Therefore all the information that users added to it in good faith, often only recorded there, is potentially lost permanently(as also happened with the similar yorkshiregrit site some year back). This includes details of things that even the folk who wrote it no longer remember.

Is none of that available from the wayback machine?

Nothing useful. Only the upper levels of the site are saved by archiving sites, so typically no problem information is saved. At least that's been the case for every problem I've tried to look up on the archived of peakbouldering.info.

SA Chris

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P.S. You can print 27Crags etc. just like a PDF for your analogue tactile paper types....

More like elderly and poor of eyesight.

teestub

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P.S. You can print 27Crags etc. just like a PDF for your analogue tactile paper types....

Not the printing that’s the issue for me, it’s the centralisation of data as others have said. These paid topo sites sometimes feel a bit like the Internet of Things: trying to solve a problem that doesn’t really exist by making something slightly more convenient, with the aim to make somebody some money. I guess I’m just a Luddite.


Will Hunt

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27crags can suck the biggest available bag of dicks.

The UK has a big problem at the moment because the Rockfax app is becoming the go-to guidebook for younger people and there is nothing to compete with it. With no page count considerations, the app is free to do definitive coverage and I can easily envisage a future where the only variety in guidebooks are a few paper books that come out every now and again, and a few online resources covering new developments/bits that Rockfax haven't got round to yet or can't be bothered with. It makes me really sad to think of that world. As I said to someone working on Northern Rock recently, "you never open up the Rockfax and get a surprise" - perhaps a bit of an exaggeration but not far off.

The UK needs an app that local developers can use to document their stuff, and which can also be used to give coverage to the major areas and crags. I wouldn't trust any commercial platform with this (which might disappear/paywall/completely change direction one day), it would have to be something under the BMC or the clubs.
Therein lies the problem. The BMC have abandoned guidebook making entirely, leaving the future of Cheshire sandstone etc in doubt. There is a Wired database, and there is even a Wired app (which is nothing when compared with the Rockfax offering), but despite lots of badgering development of it hasn't really gone anywhere. The clubs are generally full of people of a certain vintage - many of whom have slaved away for years on various book projects - and most of them just haven't got the enthusiasm for guidebooks-on-a-phone. So we can write our reports with our recommendations and someone will take that back to the committee of noteworthies who will sit in a meeting somewhere and think about it and ultimately not make the Decision That Needs To Be Made (that is, for them to set up a company/not-for-profit-type-thing and employ people who's job it will be to make decisions and Make It Happen).

jwi

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I think that it is very easy to underestimate the amount of work and costs that goes in to the back-end of a database driven site for sharing info.

TCE

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I reckon The Dragon's Eye is Always Watching on Ben Vane in Arrochar is definitely worth a shout. There's also a project (well, it's still a project as far as I know) on the side of Ben Narnain facing The Cobbler that is a future classic at something like 7C+. Can give more details if anyone is interested.

Did a big arete above Tornapress under Beinn Bhan earlier this year called Flight Across the Desert that's about 7B. Ticks most of the boxes, though it maybe eases-off a wee bit too much at the top.

SA Chris

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I think that it is very easy to underestimate the amount of work and costs that goes in to the back-end of a database driven site for sharing info.

This has literally appeared in the last few days, created by an keen individual.

https://boulderingcapetown.co.za/

wonder a) how much cost and time has gone into it and b) how long it will last.

GazM

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Hey TCE, John sent me details of Flight Across the Desert for a wee sandstone update I'm going to write for the Scottishbloc website. It looks superb!
How long does the walk in take? And will I need a few pads or will a single big one be OK?  Really keen to give it a visit this autumn.

Thomnomnom

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I reckon The Dragon's Eye is Always Watching on Ben Vane in Arrochar is definitely worth a shout. There's also a project (well, it's still a project as far as I know) on the side of Ben Narnain facing The Cobbler that is a future classic at something like 7C+. Can give more details if anyone is interested.

Does that differ from Goliath which gets a brief mention in the guide? I got the impression that had been climbed (by you) - or is there a further project up there? I've been meaning to go for a look for a long time.

Didn't know you'd climbed anything on the Dinosaur Egg. I think I stumbled across that block independently but it seemed exceedingly boggy. Does Dragon's Eye have a dry landing & did you take a pad up there?

TCE

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@GazM: roughly 45 mins. Park at the bridge and take the track going north. When you get to the wee wooden footbridge turn left. You can see the boulder from there. Walk straight up the side of the stream. Mats: feels a bit odd making recommendations concerning other people's health and safety -- I'm just some guy on the internet. FWIW, I was happy with one mat. When you're doing the crux your feet are at head height. There are some flat rocks behind you, some of which have lips to them. When I was taking falls off the crux I didn't at first feel sure exactly where I would land, which was a bit disconcerting, but after falling off a few times I got a feel for it. It also helped to go for the right hold, ahem...


GazM

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Grand, thanks Tom. That's really useful. From memory that's not dissimilar from the time it takes to get to the boulders out the back of Coire nan Arr, so seems fine. Especially for such a great looking problem!

TCE

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@Thomnomnom: I did Goliath in 2010, this project is further along to the west. It's a flat 40 degree overhang. Indoor style climbing. 1.5 hour walk in, so f*** the mat off and take a chunky spotter instead, if you have access to such conveniences. It's about 200 metres above the path, just to the left of a scree-run that comes down from the left of Yawning Crag. Aforementioned spotter would be useful for pushing you on to the crux, which is juuuuust too high to pull on to from the ground.

I did The Dragon's Eye is Always Watching in the summer of 2014, and that boggy landing was just the right side of boggy, i.e. a bit springy but not wet. You do start sitting almost in the pool under the boulder, though: tarp, or similar, is useful. I'm always looking for excuses to leave the mat at home, and though the problem's quite high I didn't need much of an excuse in this case. This might be a slightly odd thing to say given its location, but I reckon to get full value on that problem you'd want to take the ride with no mat from the second last move at least once, and be about 5' 10' -ish. I'm 6' 1", and the top was a reach, but pretty manageable.

This completely contradicts what I just said in my reply to GazM, but hey -- you've got to live a little sometimes.  :devangel:

TCE

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@GazM: the boulders at the back of Coire nan Arr are very nice. Been in there a few times with the kids messing about. Drew a topo for John Watson recently, but I have no idea who's done what in there.

Thomnomnom

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Great info, thanks Tom. Looks like I'm in for full value on The Dragon's Eye as I'm 5'10ish exactly. Will try to make the effort to get up to all of this schist stuff, sounds totally worth it!

andy_e

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I think Andy's right that the Morar Monster could fit in - it would give Lochaber a bit of a broader spread.

I was thinking about this, maybe it should also include the Sword, but neither Thom nor I have done it because neither of us could be arsed with the brackeny scree to check it out...

Teddyc

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This is such a good list, can't help but get involved!

Interesting that Malky made it, great move but personally would think Mestizo SS, Consolidated, The Shield or even Nice and Sleazy (part malky whoops) would all nip in before.

I actually stick a vote back on Negative Progression for Rooftown, thought it was well good. Has Reptile had a repeat yet?

scragrock

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Interesting Ted, i thought you weren't that enamoured with Neg Prog.
As for Reptile...that question opens up another can of worms, If a problem has only seen 1 or 2 repeats does it deserve 3 stars or a place on the list?
If you believe that problems need many repeats to get a rounded appraisal on its grade and quality then you automatically remove many of the current problems on the list. Screapadal Prow on Raasay is a perfect example of this, i think it has seen maybe 1 repeat but Dave swears it is one of the best boulders of its type anywhere in the UK.{ or do we just trust Dave cause its Dave? }

Not sure what the best approach on this is but i have certainly Not put any of mine forward as they have seen few or No repeats and i fear my in built bias for certain styles or lines would end badly.

Be interested to see folks thoughts on this :-\ 

Bonjoy

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Interesting Ted, i thought you weren't that enamoured with Neg Prog.
As for Reptile...that question opens up another can of worms, If a problem has only seen 1 or 2 repeats does it deserve 3 stars or a place on the list?
If you believe that problems need many repeats to get a rounded appraisal on its grade and quality then you automatically remove many of the current problems on the list. Screapadal Prow on Raasay is a perfect example of this, i think it has seen maybe 1 repeat but Dave swears it is one of the best boulders of its type anywhere in the UK.{ or do we just trust Dave cause its Dave? }

Not sure what the best approach on this is but i have certainly Not put any of mine forward as they have seen few or No repeats and i fear my in built bias for certain styles or lines would end badly.

Be interested to see folks thoughts on this :-\
There is a massive bias towards ease and convenience in climbing, and that approach would massively favour roadside soft-touches. Giving credit to the rarely or unrepeated helps to counter this bias a little.
From my experience doing new things, it's not the best things that get the most repeats it's those that fit the lowest common denominators.

teestub

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As for Reptile...that question opens up another can of worms, If a problem has only seen 1 or 2 repeats does it deserve 3 stars or a place on the list?
...
Be interested to see folks thoughts on this :-\

If you took this approach with Scotland, all you’d end up with is a list of well travelled areas (Dumby, Glen Nevis, Torridon, etc.) Personally I’d want the list to include all sorts of amazing problems in the Highlands and Islands that I might not have heard of to inspire future holidays.

I think you can be objective about the quality of boulder problems, even if this is more difficult as an FAist: is it non eliminate, is the line good, is the rock good, are the holds nice etc.

SA Chris

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Given the low numbers of boulderers in some areas and the remoteness of some problems I don't think consensus will always be possible.

edit - what they said ^

Stewart

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Absolutely, problems can go on the list if they've not had any repeats. I've got a couple of my own unrepeated problems on there. The Witch at Sandyhills which is genuinely ace.

The low start version is first problem here


And Stew's Wall (should have got a better name for this!) which i swithered on. It is great, but part of my rationale was creating a list to include venues all across the country and this is the only bouldering for miles. I might swap this one.

45 secs in this video which doesn't do it justice.


There is also Carlisle Slapper's Blacker than Black which is unrepeated i believe, but the only thing on that South Ayrshire coast. I've stood under it when it was wet and it certainly looks great!

If you've some suggestions of unrepeated FAs then go ahead, but of course suggest what you'd replace and pics and vids are helpful. This thread is as valuable as the actual list hopefully as even if not on there it's suggested a lot of problems and locations i would like to try.



scragrock

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OK but you have been warned....i have been told off in the past for my choices and widely inaccurate grading :shrug:

Barry Valley

Hissing Sid 7a ish
Butch and Sundance 7a ish

Rooftown

Slot machine extention 7a ish 
BFGeezus probably a 7  {ignore the first 7 minutes of falling off}
Flight of the Phoenix might be a 7 just cause of the grovelling mantle and hand jam 

There are certainly others that deserve 3 stars and a best in Scotland mention in and around Strathnairn its just a shame they are in a lower grade category.

Stewart

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This is such a good list, can't help but get involved!

Interesting that Malky made it, great move but personally would think Mestizo SS, Consolidated, The Shield or even Nice and Sleazy (part malky whoops) would all nip in before.

I actually stick a vote back on Negative Progression for Rooftown, thought it was well good. Has Reptile had a repeat yet?

You should get involved as you've contributed a fair few of these problems i believe.
I thought Negative Progression looked great, the jury is still out on Rooftown then!
Malky is one of my favourite problems anywhere, great moves, good height, very droppable last couple of moves. Mestizo arete, it's good but it's just a couple of moves into the awkward 6A stand, first move is extremely morpho.
Nice and Sleazy is great but it is essentially a link up. The Shield and consolidated....really??

 

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