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Recommended coach for training, Manc / NW area. (Read 14858 times)

Fiend

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Well one of the posters above PMed me to suggest "Get some training coaching now anyway because a good coach should be able to work around injury / rehab, and since you're a fat old crip you're going to be perma-injured from now on so you better be able to fucking deal with it". The latter part might be a vague paraphrase, but I see the logic in what they were saying.

Thus I am about to pull the trigger on an email to Kettle, but if anyone has any other last minute suggestions other than those above, feel free to mention them.

Duncan Disorderly

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Original cause was tweaking it on a purple problem on the comp wall at The Works in spring 2008 with Duncan fucking Disorderly, then not resting / rehabbing nearly enough.
2008!!!!! Sounds like you're still blaming me! I'll be getting the blame for your terrible dress sense, music taste and ever-increasing waistline next  :tease:

Fiend

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Bit of threadcromancy here but I never got around to correcting some posts before....

Have you considered some mental / life coaching to explore your self-inflicted barriers to other forms of training?

"It's not for me" and "I can't stick to X,Y,Z" will clearly be based on your life experience and "knowing thyself", but that doesn't mean there's no room for change.

Perhaps exploring your own inner barriers might be more fruitful? Or help in tandem?
Self-inflicted isn't true, just as your barriers to enjoying gabber aren't "self-inflicted". We all have different psychological make-ups, different things we like and dislike, different things we tolerate and can't tolerate - just look at the broad spectrum of climbers on here, I doubt Barrows vs Johnny Brown 's personal tastes are "self-inflicted". The rest of your post does make slightly more sense, obviously some of those non-self-inflicted barriers are open to change, depending how fundamental to one's personality they are, and how strong one's motivation to change them is (I know in myself that both of these vary are a lot with different issues). Rigid training may be something I can learn to tolerate more, or maybe it's something that can be adapted to fit into my current tolerance.


I find this a very interesting statement. When I have climbed with Fiend or watched him climb on videos, I've sometimes caught myself thinking "huh. This is guy who wobbles up death choss for a laugh?"
You've climbed with me thrice last year. Once on something right at my limit in my anti-style, and once on a baking hot day where the only things I were really motivated for were dressing on the most ridiculous metal garb I own and anally probing you with the entirely reliable and safe dog stake anchor. Equally the other time mostly involved you going up a slab with so much pedalling it could have been a combined Webbo / Paul B bike ride. The videos of me bouldering are yes me bouldering at my limit and that will involved a variety of techniques that are a bit different to trad slabs and death choss.


Sometimes the Fiend is wont to cut loose for no reason. This happened at Witches, I think, and it was also his preferred sequence for swinging his left leg over and up to a high rockover at the end of the hard climbing on Metal Guru (hint: there's ample footholds to step the feet through nicely and do it static which helps if you're tired at that point - which you probably will be on redpoint). It's a really nice, flamboyant thing to watch but it must be crap for performance.

No doubt it's nice to climb like that when you've got lots in reserve, but being good at that sort of thing isn't what's holding him back from whatever his goals might be.
I'll grant you that me and Matt are different climbers, geared in different ways, but I dropped the move on Metal Guru that I'm talking about on redpoint because I was too gassed to do it. I don't know if Fiend ever got to that point but it is definitely possible that he would have been too gassed. The point is that he had no plan to do that top bit efficiently, and ultimately if you want to explore the limits of your body's capabilities on steep limestone you're not going to do it by Dawesing around without your feet on.

Having read John's book, I can tell you that if Fiend goes to him he's going to get told to use his feet more. Maybe not when he's on his best behaviour and locked into death-shuffle mode, but definitely when he's safe and sound on bolts and switches off the part of the brain that tells him to keep his feet on.
What you're missing is that 1. It's not campussing, it's jumping with my feet, it's specifically to use my legs dynamically and get the power through those. Or it's cutting loose to save time holding on mincing around walking my feet daintily over several footholds. 2. It's a style specifically to be efficient and because I don't have anything in reserve - speed and power through the legs to compensate for lack of power-to-weight overall. It might not look perfectly graceful and elegant to outside observers but that's not the point.

Incidentally this style has been commented on positively by two people with good experience of climber analysis recently.

AND I've had very interesting (if unpleasant) experiences having to climb WITHOUT this style. Due to my knee injury I'm not able to get full range of motion through that leg NOR full strength, and especially NO dynamism and spring. I've had to adapt to climbing more "stepping through nice and static", and this is inhibiting me a lot, making many problems noticeably harder, and in fact I'm sure it contributed to how bad my golfer's elbow felt on returning to very easy climbing. Not being able to push, spring, bounce, scamper, and jump from my legs has meant more pulling through my arms when problems can't be done just with fairly static leg movements.


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And mental coaching would probably help The Fiend with the negative self-belief that he has. "I can't follow a training plan. My power to weight is shit. I wish I was good at being skinny. I'm not going well at the moment it's these problems that are soft. I wish I had a longer neck. I wish I had a bigger cock. blah blah blah".
Read what you've written - you're setting out from the start all the stuff you can't do. I found it very inspirational to hear MacLeod say that he just decided one day that he was going to complete his training plan, and that as soon as he did this he realised that he could climb the things he dreamed of climbing if he could only decide to do what was necessary to get there (or words to that effect).
Similar to Puntonious above. All of the first paragraph is nonsense. My OP was just clearing out stuff that will be less helpful to make way for stuff that will be more helpful (which incidentally other respondents got and were capable of suggesting people for). It's not negative self-belief, it's acknowledgment of genuine issues, some of which will be workable, some of which will be best worked around. Maybe I should have listed some stuff I'm good at / suitable for to balance it out

Further Dmac is not me. He runs up Ben Nevis for rest days. He's got the capacity to flick a switch and say "I'm going to complete my training plan", that's great for him. His militant dedication and rigid self-discipline are laudable and extremely effective. For people without that.....maybe it's worth seeking a climbing coach to get something that works for them.


P.S. And yes I know you're online as I've just posted this Will, and may argue back. I'm probably not going to engage much as it's all a bit academic as I am still rehabbing, I will be for a while, and it will be quite a long road back to full fitness. Which, in line with some other posts, I'm hoping to do in a careful and sustainable way to avoid further injuries.
« Last Edit: January 29, 2022, 12:55:40 pm by Fiend »

 

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