How many is "several" over how many years of climbing?
Im recovering from a similar injury. The protocol I was provided to sort it was 10 second hangs with 45 seconds off. 4 or 5 sets of 5 hangs.The first 3 or 4 sets are open handed hangs, and are essentially just warming up.The meat of it is the final set, where I go use half crimp.Starting off hanging with feet on floor to redice intensity and slowly increase.Do not push the half crimp, any pain means you have gone too far.I was told big easy outdoor climbiny is also a fine supplement, but not to climb the same day as fingerboarding. Maybe I have misaunderstood and you are looking at injury prevention rather than fixiny a current injury?
I completely disagree that hard fingerboarding is off limits for people who've been injured recently. Like everything, load just needs to be progressively increased - sub-maximal fingerboarding for me has been the mainstay of recovery form a finger injury (where sub-maximal starts off as lessthan-bodyweight)
I was told to have a rest day between sessions, where a session is climbing or fingerboarding.Also that at least 1 session per week should be fingerboarding.
Sorry if this is more teaching to suck eggs
For what it's worth, I personally think intense hangboarding shouldn't be too much of your climbing "diet" if you have had that many pulley injuries in 2 years. Also if you are just running them on 3 fingers, your ring finger is is taking a lot of the load from that "side" of you hand and is going to suffer. Do you do any fingerboard training involving pinkies?
One thing I have come across is that if you are hangong open handed you arent really putting much stress on the pulleys. Its only when you go into a more active grip, such as half crimp, that you actually put much through them. Therefore doing some of this as part of rehab is key to long term pulley strengthening. This should be starting from very light loads and building up to avoid re aggrivating the injury, and if it feels at all bad, you have gone too hard.
I've had 4 finger injuries in past 2.5 years and am finally moving past them. Two partial tears, one lumbrical strain and one full pulley rupture. The thing that has helped me the most is density hangs, 40 second hangs at 20 - 40% of max weight. As directed by my PT, you can do these pretty much every day. I generally do two indoor sessions a week (with max hang fingerboarding), one outdoor session a week and one or two density hang sessions (separate days). I completely disagree that hard fingerboarding is off limits for people who've been injured recently. Like everything, load just needs to be progressively increased - sub-maximal fingerboarding for me has been the mainstay of recovery form a finger injury (where sub-maximal starts off as lessthan-bodyweight)
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