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Fedw Fawr bouldering (Read 3378 times)

gardinrm

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#25 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 11, 2023, 07:41:54 pm
I had a holiday on Anglesey this Summer, so checked out Fedw Fawr. Lovely spot, but i was quite disappointed with the climbing on the boulders to be honest. Was all quite tidal, which meant the platforms were covered in seaweed (hard to keep feet and pads clean/dry, and slippy...very slippy) and lots of limpets/winkles/barnacles on the rock itself. And some fierce sharp holds!

From Benllech you're about 30 mins from Ogwen.... I had a much better day up there.

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#26 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 11, 2023, 08:22:35 pm
I had a holiday on Anglesey this Summer, so checked out Fedw Fawr. Lovely spot, but i was quite disappointed with the climbing on the boulders to be honest. Was all quite tidal, which meant the platforms were covered in seaweed (hard to keep feet and pads clean/dry, and slippy...very slippy) and lots of limpets/winkles/barnacles on the rock itself. And some fierce sharp holds!

From Benllech you're about 30 mins from Ogwen.... I had a much better day up there.

The seaweed has got worse in recent years for some reason. Never used to be like it is now.

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#27 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 13, 2023, 10:51:27 am
I had a holiday on Anglesey this Summer, so checked out Fedw Fawr. Lovely spot, but i was quite disappointed with the climbing on the boulders to be honest. Was all quite tidal, which meant the platforms were covered in seaweed (hard to keep feet and pads clean/dry, and slippy...very slippy) and lots of limpets/winkles/barnacles on the rock itself. And some fierce sharp holds!

From Benllech you're about 30 mins from Ogwen.... I had a much better day up there.

Forgot to mention my thoughts on the sharpness comment - Fedw Fawr has never struck me as being particularly sharp at all, apart from a few lines on the Wedge wall (opposite side of the huge plinth/wedge to the descent for the crag section). I'm curious to know what it was that was cutting you - anything specific you can point too?

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#28 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 13, 2023, 11:02:44 am
That's great, thanks for all the info chaps. Sounds like there's plenty to be getting on with. I might manage to tag an hour here and there onto days out with the family, but realistically it's going to be evenings on the local stuff with short approaches to maximise climbing time.

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#29 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 13, 2023, 05:46:42 pm
Had a fun day here last year. Slightly scary rope descent approach to the crag, though for seasoned sea cliff climbers I'm sure it's nothing, but you probably wouldn't want to bring small children.

The problems were good fun, typical fierce limestone stuff. Some quite sequency. The 6's seemed a bit desperate, some took us longer than the 7's. Wouldn't recommend for anyone with 6B/C as their usual max grade - lots of sandbags and the easier problems aren't great. For those climbing 7's there is plenty to do, and it's always fun climbing by the sea. Helps to have more than one pad - landings are hard and often stepped.

There is one problem not in the guide that we thought was one of the better 7's. The guidebook line of Face Lift is a gnarly pockety 7A, a bit unpleasant... however if you climb just right, using the RH hold as a great LH sidepull/pinch, it's an excellent kneebar and body position puzzle on nice grips. Seems like an obvious line, and from the UKC comments others have done the same. 7A+ ish. Kneepad recommended.


Pantontino

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#30 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 14, 2023, 12:23:57 am
Had a fun day here last year. Slightly scary rope descent approach to the crag, though for seasoned sea cliff climbers I'm sure it's nothing, but you probably wouldn't want to bring small children.

The problems were good fun, typical fierce limestone stuff. Some quite sequency. The 6's seemed a bit desperate, some took us longer than the 7's. Wouldn't recommend for anyone with 6B/C as their usual max grade - lots of sandbags and the easier problems aren't great. For those climbing 7's there is plenty to do, and it's always fun climbing by the sea. Helps to have more than one pad - landings are hard and often stepped.

There is one problem not in the guide that we thought was one of the better 7's. The guidebook line of Face Lift is a gnarly pockety 7A, a bit unpleasant... however if you climb just right, using the RH hold as a great LH sidepull/pinch, it's an excellent kneebar and body position puzzle on nice grips. Seems like an obvious line, and from the UKC comments others have done the same. 7A+ ish. Kneepad recommended.

The approach to the crag section is fine these days - big ledges for your feet and a handy rope to guide you down. Used to be well sketchy when we first started going there - in fact we used to ab in and jumar out!

I do agree about the grades for the 6s - they are a bit fierce and maybe need nudging up.

As for Facelift, the new description is:

3. Face Lift 7A **
An immaculate beauty. From the break, pull round onto the clean face and slap for the top edge. There are left and right versions. [Pete Robins 14.06.14]

Maybe that needs fleshing out a bit more?

I'll pass on your comments to crag caretaker, Pete. He does occasionally agree to upgrades. :-)

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#31 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 14, 2023, 12:54:29 am
Porth Gwalch (or the made up Sais name 'Llawder' used in route guides) at Rhoscolyn is do-able for a lone wolf, especially if you take a couple of medium sized pads. Obviously better with a spotter but fairly friendly and almost non-tidal.

There's a decent circuit of 6 + 7s hidden amongst the many boulders at the base of the cliff, and it's a nice place to hang out.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Porth%20Gwalch%207A%20569_1992.jpg

Jon Ratcliffe on Porth Gwalch wall (7A) photo: Si Panton

See the Gogarth South/North Wales Rock guide for approach, although it's pretty obvious with a glance at an OS map.

If you've got time you can also go and have a gander at this:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=1028

 http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=1029

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#32 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 14, 2023, 12:58:10 am
There's also a steep 7B trav right of Leviathan which looks friendly for a lone wolf.

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#33 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 20, 2023, 06:06:43 pm
Quote
if you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit.

 :lol: Or if you had a free afternoon at Gogarth but your mates refused and insisted you come to them. To be fair some of it does look good but the bit you took me too was as bad a climbing venue as I've ever visited. Even Doyle said 'Fair play for having a go' as I draped my hands on the wet barnacle slopers of the 'warm-up' traverse. And that's before we mention ethics...  :worms:

Can't believe you're a wild swimmer now too.


You looked like you were enjoying it to me ? :shrug:

picture upload

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#34 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 20, 2023, 11:17:33 pm
The camera never lies.  ;)

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#35 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 20, 2023, 11:47:04 pm
I forgot to mention Pedolau Ė north of Moelfre, but quicker to approach from Traeth Lligwy (20 mins)

Friendly spot with forty 5 + 6 lines, vertical, flat rock landings, some nice flowstone in places.

You also walk past Ogof Moryn which has half a dozen lines up to 7C, but the approach might feel a bit intimidating on your own. Itís okay actually once youíve sussed the best line to descend by.

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#36 Re: Fedw Fawr bouldering
January 20, 2023, 11:50:47 pm

 

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