places to visit > uk and eire

Fedw Fawr bouldering

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teestub:
Yep as Fiend says Main Event roof sketchy rock platform which was not really ok on my own with 2 big pads as lines cover a lot of ground. Despite the guidebook accolades I didn’t think much of it as a venue.

We had a week in Anglesey a similar time last year which was amazing for the beaches, but when I wanted to go climbing I just drove the Orme!

T_B:
The Ghost Cave at Treaddur Bay is worth checking out (eg Screwball Scramble 7a). It’s a 5 min (awkward with little ones) walk in with pebble beach at the mouth of the cave. Sunny aspect. Rock pools etc. The climbing is nothing special but you could happily spend an hour or so mucking about if it’s dry en famille. You wouldn’t go there on a solo Dad mission - it’s not that good! It does get condensed in the back. Low tide needed. Excellent ice creams at Treaddur Bay.

tommytwotone:
I went to Anglesey a few years ago and stayed near Red Wharf Bay, but had terrible weather.

The stuff at Moelfre looked good to a limited time window / Dad solo mission. Nothing super-hard, but looked like you could spend a nice evening there and tick the crag.


Nice ice cream place on the beach there too.

Stabbsy:
Cheers all, sounds like I'd pegged it fairly well. As a closet fan of scruffy shuffles, I'd imagine Castell Mawr might get a visit but the pics on UKC do make it look remarkably underwhelming for the amount of stars thrown at it. Hadn't considered Moelfre, but looks like that's the closest crag to where we're staying so that will also probably get a visit, then Ormes if I get a longer window.

El Mocho:
I think the info you have on most of the places mentioned is pretty accurate.

Castell Mawr is a bit grotty at the crag (all the other spots are lovely places right by the sea side) but it does benefit from staying pretty dry during rain and being non tidal. There were some stashed pads in a cave when I last went.

Fedw (and general area). This has the highest concentration of problems, some of which are quite good. For a lot of it a couple (or more) pads is better but there are a few problems which are fine with 1. Probably the Monster area (the crag bit, access down the slab with a in situ rope) has the most concentration of problems you can do with 1 pad and although the landing is hard rock it is at least flat. It's tidal but doesn't suffer too much with condensation and is a pretty pleasant venue in the summer time.

White beach itself (the actual pebbly beach, not the sport crag often referred to by the same name) now has 2 little blocks with a bunch of problems on which are fine with 1 pad. This is def a venue where the view is better than the climbing but you can have fun. The swimming is really good. Non tidal (unless massive sea/storm).

If you like shuffles White Beach sport crag has a long trav. If you do the full thing and are strict about avoiding high jugs it is around 8a but there are easier sections and it is completely fine with 1 pad (I don't take any for it). There is a lovely warm up dws trav down the left end of the crag with a few up problems on the far far left. The main crag is non tidal and the dws is better at a mid-high tide but can be done at any state (just less of it). Again the swimming is really good.

These venues are all from the same Fedw car park, which can get full in summer.

There is a bunch more climbing around the area but prob not suited to 1 pad in general.

The conglomerate crag near Penmon point is pretty fine with 1 pad, def fine for some of the problems. It's an ok crag in a lovely spot overlooking the menai straits and Snowdonia hills. There are a few ok up probs and a long shuffle (which might not be fine with 1 pad) It is tidal and you either need to do a 20 min approach from free parking on the road before it heads away from the coast a bit, or continue and park at Penmon which cost something like £5 but the walk is much shorter.

I'm not sure how much info is available on these places but you can dig around and find bits on t'interweb (mostly nwb).

As ever with coastal bouldering on Anglesey if you approach it with the right frame of mind and appreciate the generally lovely locations and have a decent supply of chalk you can have a great time, if you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit.

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