I had a holiday on Anglesey this Summer, so checked out Fedw Fawr. Lovely spot, but i was quite disappointed with the climbing on the boulders to be honest. Was all quite tidal, which meant the platforms were covered in seaweed (hard to keep feet and pads clean/dry, and slippy...very slippy) and lots of limpets/winkles/barnacles on the rock itself. And some fierce sharp holds!From Benllech you're about 30 mins from Ogwen.... I had a much better day up there.
Had a fun day here last year. Slightly scary rope descent approach to the crag, though for seasoned sea cliff climbers I'm sure it's nothing, but you probably wouldn't want to bring small children. The problems were good fun, typical fierce limestone stuff. Some quite sequency. The 6's seemed a bit desperate, some took us longer than the 7's. Wouldn't recommend for anyone with 6B/C as their usual max grade - lots of sandbags and the easier problems aren't great. For those climbing 7's there is plenty to do, and it's always fun climbing by the sea. Helps to have more than one pad - landings are hard and often stepped.There is one problem not in the guide that we thought was one of the better 7's. The guidebook line of Face Lift is a gnarly pockety 7A, a bit unpleasant... however if you climb just right, using the RH hold as a great LH sidepull/pinch, it's an excellent kneebar and body position puzzle on nice grips. Seems like an obvious line, and from the UKC comments others have done the same. 7A+ ish. Kneepad recommended.
Quoteif you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit. Or if you had a free afternoon at Gogarth but your mates refused and insisted you come to them. To be fair some of it does look good but the bit you took me too was as bad a climbing venue as I've ever visited. Even Doyle said 'Fair play for having a go' as I draped my hands on the wet barnacle slopers of the 'warm-up' traverse. And that's before we mention ethics... Can't believe you're a wild swimmer now too.
if you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit.