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Fedw Fawr bouldering

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James Malloch:
We’re thinking of going here later today - does anyone know what it’s like with tides?

Low tide isn’t until 18:20 today and with it being north facing I’m wondering what the conditions might be like as we wouldn’t be able to get to the boulders until 2-3 hours before I think (what I’m inferring from the guide).

Also what’s the approach like of we have dogs? Is the gulley sketchy? The guide doesn’t mention it but I found an old post on here talking about in situ hand lines.

Fiend:
Word from a local guru is:


--- Quote ---Rope access for crag no dogs. Boulders one sketch move with dogs but okay. 3hrs before HW fine. Wild braken but dying down now.
--- End quote ---

James Malloch:

--- Quote from: Fiend on September 21, 2021, 08:47:52 am ---Word from a local guru is:


--- Quote ---Rope access for crag no dogs. Boulders one sketch move with dogs but okay. 3hrs before HW fine. Wild braken but dying down now.
--- End quote ---

--- End quote ---

Many thanks for that. Probably one for us to avoid this time then. Keen to go but mainly interested in the crag parts.

Back around to the guide…

Stabbsy:
Just resurrecting an old topic rather than starting a new one. We've booked a family holiday just north of Benllech in June and I'll be taking the opportunity for a few solo missions to local crags for a bit of bouldering. From a bit of guidebook scanning and UKC trawling, it looks like the options for local stuff are Fedw Fawr, Benllech and Castell Mawr (Red Wharf Bay).

A quick scan of the guide for Fedw Fawr suggests it might not be that suitable for the solo (one-pad) boulder. Is that a fair reflection? Similar for the Main Event roof at Benllech - landing looks a bit "challenging" for a single pad. How about the other local options? Also, how reliable are conditions and will I find that the coastal crags get condensed (or whatever) in the evening as that's likely my best window to get out?

Fiend:
Fedw Fawr definitely not single pad suitable unless it's a fucking massive pad. Hard rock platform landings, sometimes pitted, some problems quite high. Benllech I expect very similar. Basically if the area has been heavily developed by a combined E8 onsighter / 8B boulderer then it's going to be pretty sketchy for mere mortals, and that is pretty much the whole area. Castle Mawr should be fine on the more traversey stuff but it is just Stoney with less traffic noise. Moelfre (in grimer's Boulder Britain) is more suitable, flat rock landing, mostly mid 6s. Alternatively, message Pantontino and he may have other more suitable gems to reveal.

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