[James Malloch]

We’re thinking of going here later today - does anyone know what it’s like with tides?

Low tide isn’t until 18:20 today and with it being north facing I’m wondering what the conditions might be like as we wouldn’t be able to get to the boulders until 2-3 hours before I think (what I’m inferring from the guide).

Also what’s the approach like of we have dogs? Is the gulley sketchy? The guide doesn’t mention it but I found an old post on here talking about in situ hand lines.

[Fiend]

Word from a local guru is:

Rope access for crag no dogs. Boulders one sketch move with dogs but okay. 3hrs before HW fine. Wild braken but dying down now.

[James Malloch]

Word from a local guru is:

Rope access for crag no dogs. Boulders one sketch move with dogs but okay. 3hrs before HW fine. Wild braken but dying down now.

Many thanks for that. Probably one for us to avoid this time then. Keen to go but mainly interested in the crag parts.

Back around to the guide…

[Stabbsy]

Just resurrecting an old topic rather than starting a new one. We've booked a family holiday just north of Benllech in June and I'll be taking the opportunity for a few solo missions to local crags for a bit of bouldering. From a bit of guidebook scanning and UKC trawling, it looks like the options for local stuff are Fedw Fawr, Benllech and Castell Mawr (Red Wharf Bay).

A quick scan of the guide for Fedw Fawr suggests it might not be that suitable for the solo (one-pad) boulder. Is that a fair reflection? Similar for the Main Event roof at Benllech - landing looks a bit "challenging" for a single pad. How about the other local options? Also, how reliable are conditions and will I find that the coastal crags get condensed (or whatever) in the evening as that's likely my best window to get out?

[Fiend]

Fedw Fawr definitely not single pad suitable unless it's a fucking massive pad. Hard rock platform landings, sometimes pitted, some problems quite high. Benllech I expect very similar. Basically if the area has been heavily developed by a combined E8 onsighter / 8B boulderer then it's going to be pretty sketchy for mere mortals, and that is pretty much the whole area. Castle Mawr should be fine on the more traversey stuff but it is just Stoney with less traffic noise. Moelfre (in grimer's Boulder Britain) is more suitable, flat rock landing, mostly mid 6s. Alternatively, message Pantontino and he may have other more suitable gems to reveal.

[teestub]

Yep as Fiend says Main Event roof sketchy rock platform which was not really ok on my own with 2 big pads as lines cover a lot of ground. Despite the guidebook accolades I didn’t think much of it as a venue.

We had a week in Anglesey a similar time last year which was amazing for the beaches, but when I wanted to go climbing I just drove the Orme!

[T_B]

The Ghost Cave at Treaddur Bay is worth checking out (eg Screwball Scramble 7a). It’s a 5 min (awkward with little ones) walk in with pebble beach at the mouth of the cave. Sunny aspect. Rock pools etc. The climbing is nothing special but you could happily spend an hour or so mucking about if it’s dry en famille. You wouldn’t go there on a solo Dad mission - it’s not that good! It does get condensed in the back. Low tide needed. Excellent ice creams at Treaddur Bay.

[tommytwotone]

I went to Anglesey a few years ago and stayed near Red Wharf Bay, but had terrible weather.

The stuff at Moelfre looked good to a limited time window / Dad solo mission. Nothing super-hard, but looked like you could spend a nice evening there and tick the crag.


Nice ice cream place on the beach there too.

[Stabbsy]

Cheers all, sounds like I'd pegged it fairly well. As a closet fan of scruffy shuffles, I'd imagine Castell Mawr might get a visit but the pics on UKC do make it look remarkably underwhelming for the amount of stars thrown at it. Hadn't considered Moelfre, but looks like that's the closest crag to where we're staying so that will also probably get a visit, then Ormes if I get a longer window.

[El Mocho]

I think the info you have on most of the places mentioned is pretty accurate.

Castell Mawr is a bit grotty at the crag (all the other spots are lovely places right by the sea side) but it does benefit from staying pretty dry during rain and being non tidal. There were some stashed pads in a cave when I last went.

Fedw (and general area). This has the highest concentration of problems, some of which are quite good. For a lot of it a couple (or more) pads is better but there are a few problems which are fine with 1. Probably the Monster area (the crag bit, access down the slab with a in situ rope) has the most concentration of problems you can do with 1 pad and although the landing is hard rock it is at least flat. It's tidal but doesn't suffer too much with condensation and is a pretty pleasant venue in the summer time.

White beach itself (the actual pebbly beach, not the sport crag often referred to by the same name) now has 2 little blocks with a bunch of problems on which are fine with 1 pad. This is def a venue where the view is better than the climbing but you can have fun. The swimming is really good. Non tidal (unless massive sea/storm).

If you like shuffles White Beach sport crag has a long trav. If you do the full thing and are strict about avoiding high jugs it is around 8a but there are easier sections and it is completely fine with 1 pad (I don't take any for it). There is a lovely warm up dws trav down the left end of the crag with a few up problems on the far far left. The main crag is non tidal and the dws is better at a mid-high tide but can be done at any state (just less of it). Again the swimming is really good.

These venues are all from the same Fedw car park, which can get full in summer.

There is a bunch more climbing around the area but prob not suited to 1 pad in general.

The conglomerate crag near Penmon point is pretty fine with 1 pad, def fine for some of the problems. It's an ok crag in a lovely spot overlooking the menai straits and Snowdonia hills. There are a few ok up probs and a long shuffle (which might not be fine with 1 pad) It is tidal and you either need to do a 20 min approach from free parking on the road before it heads away from the coast a bit, or continue and park at Penmon which cost something like £5 but the walk is much shorter.

I'm not sure how much info is available on these places but you can dig around and find bits on t'interweb (mostly nwb).

As ever with coastal bouldering on Anglesey if you approach it with the right frame of mind and appreciate the generally lovely locations and have a decent supply of chalk you can have a great time, if you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit.

[Pantontino]

Agree with most of what has been said, especially the bit about enjoying the overall experience rather than expecting to find world class crags. The write up of Castell Mawr on UKC is nuts, but the main bay on the left of the tower does have some really good stuff, and is way better than Stoney. There's a really nice grain to the rock for a start. The left-to-right trav of the crag is ace, really intense and absorbing.

The two chunks of coarse sandstone on the beach below the Fedw Fawr car park (Traeth Gwyn/White Beach) is a good spot for a lone wolf with a selection of 6 +7s. The right hand block suffers a bit from seepage in the winter but will be nice and dry in June. It's a short walk in so it's easy to carry extra pads down if you want them.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Bar%20Tender%201%20569_4983.jpg

Si Jones on Bartender 6C, Traeth Gwyn

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Crib%20Siwgr%204%20569%20crop_6385.jpg

Gwion Llewelyn on Crib Siwgr 6C, Traeth Gwyn

[Pantontino]

I'll post some more pics later when i get back in.

[Johnny Brown]

if you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit.

  Or if you had a free afternoon at Gogarth but your mates refused and insisted you come to them. To be fair some of it does look good but the bit you took me too was as bad a climbing venue as I've ever visited. Even Doyle said 'Fair play for having a go' as I draped my hands on the wet barnacle slopers of the 'warm-up' traverse. And that's before we mention ethics... 

Can't believe you're a wild swimmer now too.

[Fiend]

Oh go on, where was that then?! 

[Pantontino]

He's talking about the roof section at Arfordir Du, where Ben's 8B is.

[Pantontino]

if you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit.

  Or if you had a free afternoon at Gogarth but your mates refused and insisted you come to them. To be fair some of it does look good but the bit you took me too was as bad a climbing venue as I've ever visited. Even Doyle said 'Fair play for having a go' as I draped my hands on the wet barnacle slopers of the 'warm-up' traverse. And that's before we mention ethics... 

Can't believe you're a wild swimmer now too.

And it seemed like you were having such fun that day! :-)

[Fiend]

He's talking about the roof section at Arfordir Du, where Ben's 8B is.

  that was actually my first guess straight away!

[Pantontino]

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Extreme%20Ways%20%203%20%20569_5010(1).jpg

Dan McManus on Extreme Ways (7A+), Castell Mawr

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Mr%20Tickler%20569_5638.jpg

Jon Ratcliffe on Mr Tickler (7C), Castell Mawr

[northern yob]

Can't believe you're a wild swimmer now too.

More info please…… this is what happens to people if they spend too much time in North wales.

[Pantontino]

This is the bit of Yr Arfordir Du that JB was keener on. Not ideal for lone wolves though.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Bois%20Lanci%20569%20crop_3851.jpg

Charlie Panton on the FA of Bois Lanci (6C), Yr Arfordir Du

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Hipnotherapy%201%20569_5486.jpg

Tim Blake on Hipnotherapy (7C+), Yr Arfordir Du

[Pantontino]

And a few shots of the sandstone crag near Trwyn Penmon, on the shore of the Menai Strait.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Superspreader%205%20569_4587.jpg

Pete Robins on Superspreader (7A), Trwyn Penmon

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Margerine%20569_3742.jpg

Matt Perrier on Margerine (7B) Trwyn Penmon

[El Mocho]

if you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit.

...as bad a climbing venue as I've ever visited.

I nearly put "...climbing snob like JB". Such high standards will only lead to a lifetime of disappointment.

Can't believe you're a wild swimmer now too.

More info please…… this is what happens to people if they spend too much time in North wales.

I'll shut that down right away. I am 100% not a wild swimmer. I occasionally go in the sea when I'm too hot but a) I wear a wet suit except on the hottest days b) I don't enjoy it and am not very good at it (heavy bones) and c) I am terrified that some sea creature is going to drag me to the bottom. That last one is the reason I actually do it as having done zero trad routes this last year it's the only adrenaline rush I get and I actually quite like being scared.

I can appreciate that if you are into swimming it's a really nice place to do it.

ps here is a carefully edited (to show as few moves as possible and as many dogs as possible) vid which shows the quality of that roof, on some slightly drier days:

[Johnny Brown]

I see you’ve got your swimmers on.

[El Mocho]

I see you’ve got your swimmers on.

 

[andy popp]

Diabolical dog dab.

[gardinrm]

I had a holiday on Anglesey this Summer, so checked out Fedw Fawr. Lovely spot, but i was quite disappointed with the climbing on the boulders to be honest. Was all quite tidal, which meant the platforms were covered in seaweed (hard to keep feet and pads clean/dry, and slippy...very slippy) and lots of limpets/winkles/barnacles on the rock itself. And some fierce sharp holds!

From Benllech you're about 30 mins from Ogwen.... I had a much better day up there.

[Pantontino]

I had a holiday on Anglesey this Summer, so checked out Fedw Fawr. Lovely spot, but i was quite disappointed with the climbing on the boulders to be honest. Was all quite tidal, which meant the platforms were covered in seaweed (hard to keep feet and pads clean/dry, and slippy...very slippy) and lots of limpets/winkles/barnacles on the rock itself. And some fierce sharp holds!

From Benllech you're about 30 mins from Ogwen.... I had a much better day up there.

The seaweed has got worse in recent years for some reason. Never used to be like it is now.

[Pantontino]

I had a holiday on Anglesey this Summer, so checked out Fedw Fawr. Lovely spot, but i was quite disappointed with the climbing on the boulders to be honest. Was all quite tidal, which meant the platforms were covered in seaweed (hard to keep feet and pads clean/dry, and slippy...very slippy) and lots of limpets/winkles/barnacles on the rock itself. And some fierce sharp holds!

From Benllech you're about 30 mins from Ogwen.... I had a much better day up there.

Forgot to mention my thoughts on the sharpness comment - Fedw Fawr has never struck me as being particularly sharp at all, apart from a few lines on the Wedge wall (opposite side of the huge plinth/wedge to the descent for the crag section). I'm curious to know what it was that was cutting you - anything specific you can point too?

[Stabbsy]

That's great, thanks for all the info chaps. Sounds like there's plenty to be getting on with. I might manage to tag an hour here and there onto days out with the family, but realistically it's going to be evenings on the local stuff with short approaches to maximise climbing time.

[r-man]

Had a fun day here last year. Slightly scary rope descent approach to the crag, though for seasoned sea cliff climbers I'm sure it's nothing, but you probably wouldn't want to bring small children.

The problems were good fun, typical fierce limestone stuff. Some quite sequency. The 6's seemed a bit desperate, some took us longer than the 7's. Wouldn't recommend for anyone with 6B/C as their usual max grade - lots of sandbags and the easier problems aren't great. For those climbing 7's there is plenty to do, and it's always fun climbing by the sea. Helps to have more than one pad - landings are hard and often stepped.

There is one problem not in the guide that we thought was one of the better 7's. The guidebook line of Face Lift is a gnarly pockety 7A, a bit unpleasant... however if you climb just right, using the RH hold as a great LH sidepull/pinch, it's an excellent kneebar and body position puzzle on nice grips. Seems like an obvious line, and from the UKC comments others have done the same. 7A+ ish. Kneepad recommended.

[Pantontino]

Had a fun day here last year. Slightly scary rope descent approach to the crag, though for seasoned sea cliff climbers I'm sure it's nothing, but you probably wouldn't want to bring small children.

The problems were good fun, typical fierce limestone stuff. Some quite sequency. The 6's seemed a bit desperate, some took us longer than the 7's. Wouldn't recommend for anyone with 6B/C as their usual max grade - lots of sandbags and the easier problems aren't great. For those climbing 7's there is plenty to do, and it's always fun climbing by the sea. Helps to have more than one pad - landings are hard and often stepped.

There is one problem not in the guide that we thought was one of the better 7's. The guidebook line of Face Lift is a gnarly pockety 7A, a bit unpleasant... however if you climb just right, using the RH hold as a great LH sidepull/pinch, it's an excellent kneebar and body position puzzle on nice grips. Seems like an obvious line, and from the UKC comments others have done the same. 7A+ ish. Kneepad recommended.

The approach to the crag section is fine these days - big ledges for your feet and a handy rope to guide you down. Used to be well sketchy when we first started going there - in fact we used to ab in and jumar out!

I do agree about the grades for the 6s - they are a bit fierce and maybe need nudging up.

As for Facelift, the new description is:

3. Face Lift 7A **
An immaculate beauty. From the break, pull round onto the clean face and slap for the top edge. There are left and right versions. [Pete Robins 14.06.14]

Maybe that needs fleshing out a bit more?

I'll pass on your comments to crag caretaker, Pete. He does occasionally agree to upgrades. :-)

[Pantontino]

Porth Gwalch (or the made up Sais name 'Llawder' used in route guides) at Rhoscolyn is do-able for a lone wolf, especially if you take a couple of medium sized pads. Obviously better with a spotter but fairly friendly and almost non-tidal.

There's a decent circuit of 6 + 7s hidden amongst the many boulders at the base of the cliff, and it's a nice place to hang out.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Porth%20Gwalch%207A%20569_1992.jpg

Jon Ratcliffe on Porth Gwalch wall (7A) photo: Si Panton

See the Gogarth South/North Wales Rock guide for approach, although it's pretty obvious with a glance at an OS map.

If you've got time you can also go and have a gander at this:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=1028

 http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=1029

[Pantontino]

There's also a steep 7B trav right of Leviathan which looks friendly for a lone wolf.

[Doylo]

if you want to find things to complain about and are being a climbing snob then you will think it shit.

  Or if you had a free afternoon at Gogarth but your mates refused and insisted you come to them. To be fair some of it does look good but the bit you took me too was as bad a climbing venue as I've ever visited. Even Doyle said 'Fair play for having a go' as I draped my hands on the wet barnacle slopers of the 'warm-up' traverse. And that's before we mention ethics... 

Can't believe you're a wild swimmer now too.

You looked like you were enjoying it to me ?

picture upload

[Pantontino]

The camera never lies. 

[Pantontino]

I forgot to mention Pedolau – north of Moelfre, but quicker to approach from Traeth Lligwy (20 mins)

Friendly spot with forty 5 + 6 lines, vertical, flat rock landings, some nice flowstone in places.

You also walk past Ogof Moryn which has half a dozen lines up to 7C, but the approach might feel a bit intimidating on your own. It’s okay actually once you’ve sussed the best line to descend by.

[Pantontino]

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Identikit%20569_0872.jpg

Charlie Panton on Identikit (6B), Pedolau

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Everything%201%20569_0817.jpg

Gwion Llewelyn on Everything in its Right Place (6C), Pedolau

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Pollocks%201%20569%20crop_0983.jpg

Pete Robins on Never Mind the Pollocks (7C), Ogof Moryn

[fatneck]

Went to Pedolau last week and can confirm it's excellent. Some great features and Everything in it's Right Place is a great problem and worth the visit in itself...