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Quality 7B-7C (Read 5964 times)

dunnyg

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#25 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 17, 2021, 11:01:17 pm
Severus snape does look really fun, cheers. Hard to tell with 'four mats wall' as for me wall climbs are a lot harder to judge. I will try and have a fall off when I get up there though. Think I tried hard reign back in the mists of time and got schooled, so it would be good to get schooled on the direct too. Looks like a proper heartbreaker :2thumbsup:

Alex-the-Alex

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#26 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 17, 2021, 11:04:52 pm
Fluide, Pumped up PP, Will's Slopher, that pateley slab (phoenix wall?), tantric traverse, heaven in your hands. All high on my list when I were still in God's County  :wub:

Bradders

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#27 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 18, 2021, 08:37:51 am
Can't belive no one has suggested DWR link ups yet  :spank:!

They're all too hard for you  ;)

Bradders

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#28 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 18, 2021, 08:59:14 am
Yorkshire Is Smeaton a winter venue, or should I wait for next spring?

I was never that inspired with Kojak, not sure what I am missing here?

Belly Porker - can I have E7 for it still on UKC if I use 8 pads? How many friends does a non-brave person require?

Not sure about Smeaton specifically but magnesium limestone is generally much better in winter than summer I've found. Takes far less seepage than Peak lime and less likely to condense in winter than summer.

I agree, Kojak is okay but only one star really. This has nothing to do with my having fallen off the end of it twice.  :-\

There are actually two versions of BPP, both equally excellent but very different in style. The left hand is an overhanging and powerful arete, whereas the right is more of a prow / compression boulder into a tenuous rock over. One big pad and a medium should be okay for both I think.

Whilst you're there you could have a look at all the new stuff Dan T added a couple seasons ago, those look great.

Fiend

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#29 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 18, 2021, 09:09:59 am
Job seekers party boulder is close to my parents, i've never found anyone else keen to go though.
It's fine on your own with a couple of pads, as are all my meagre suggestions.

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#30 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 18, 2021, 11:02:31 am
A few at Brimham have been mentioned so I'll disguise a beta request as a recommendation.

The problem at 3 min 50 into this video looks excellent. Hes called it the black sail (7A+) but I can't find any more info on it. Where is it?



Also, as Goyden has been mentioned, ribtickler stand is very good, and gets 7B but I thought more 7C. The sit is obviously good too but is 7C+ (I haven't done it).

Bradders

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#31 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 18, 2021, 11:09:59 am
Also, as Goyden has been mentioned, ribtickler stand is very good, and gets 7B but I thought more 7C. The sit is obviously good too but is 7C+ (I haven't done it).

I was going to ask where on earth Ribtickler stand gets 7B but see it's down as that on UKC somehow. 7C all day long!

36chambers

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#32 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 19, 2021, 07:34:35 pm
A few at Brimham have been mentioned so I'll disguise a beta request as a recommendation.

The problem at 3 min 50 into this video looks excellent. Hes called it the black sail (7A+) but I can't find any more info on it. Where is it?

If you're stood facing Joker's wall and look leftwards, it's on the opposite side of that huge slabby boulder you'll see.

I think it might be written up in the Cameron Duff book as a V4 or something similar.

Steve R

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#33 Re: Quality 7B-7C
September 19, 2021, 09:30:17 pm
NYM Loads of class looking things to be on with, and often drier than the rest of the country. Are any of these lines particularly fast drying?

All the moors stuff mentioned is exposed and fast drying with the exception of Sleepy Hollow which is hard to get in a fully dry state - ideally visited during a dry spell.   

honroid

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#34 Re: Quality 7B-7C
October 01, 2021, 08:15:52 pm
Kojak has good moves but is quite delicate rock I thought. I guess similar to other Rick on Barden. It's hard to walk all the way up there, find it damp and walk away.. gets plenty of wind and faces West so that helps.
*rock

dunnyg

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#35 Re: Quality 7B-7C
October 01, 2021, 08:26:29 pm
I ran past on wednesday and had a look. There was a dead sheep under it and my trainers were soaked when i descended the approximate approach. Kojak does look better than I half remember from videos. Think Id want a spot as its a little slopey landing, but I am pretty soft when it comes to that sort of thing.
The pocket thing looks cool too fiend, so will head up at some point this season. With wellies....

Bradders

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#36 Re: Quality 7B-7C
October 01, 2021, 09:57:21 pm
I ran past on wednesday and had a look. There was a dead sheep under it and my trainers were soaked when i descended the approximate approach. Kojak does look better than I half remember from videos. Think Id want a spot as its a little slopey landing, but I am pretty soft when it comes to that sort of thing.
The pocket thing looks cool too fiend, so will head up at some point this season. With wellies....

Oh man, Yetix and I went for a look at Kojak in the dark on the way out from a session at Crookrise and Fairies Chest. I think he regretted trainers as a footwear choice, even before he slipped right into a stream  :lol:

Will Hunt

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#37 Re: Quality 7B-7C
October 01, 2021, 10:09:11 pm
I distinctly remember from my only visit in 2010 that the old brick guidebook described the walk in as across a "succulent bog".
I also remember a highlight of hoiking Footwork out of a snowy VD chimney in which he'd become cragfast.

dunnyg

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#38 Re: Quality 7B-7C
October 01, 2021, 10:30:20 pm
Succulent bog is accurate, I very nearly lost a trainer. Such a great little spot though.

Also Im adding "the fly" of crookrise to the list above as it looked impossible when doing the crease.

 

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