[Wellsy]

As I've started to climb on the grit I've noticed more and more a kind of move I just feel like you don't really see indoors or on lime, so I'm not used to it so much, and I'm talking about when you're on problems like Little Roof 6B+ or the Beagle has Landed 7A where you're on two handholds with not great feet (or you're going to have to jump and cut maybe) and you're doing like this tense up and then an udge up to a break you slap at dynamically.

Am I the only person who had found this kind of move 1) common on grit and 2) feel like it's quite weird and unusual? Every time I try those moves I feel outside my comfort zone. I was wondering how you train for them as well, short of doing them loads outdoors I guess.

[Fiend]

Pretty sure they exist, yes 

Definitely part of the grit game when holds are too bad to hold statically, particularly when you move up past them and the angle of your fingers on the holds can change (esp slopers). Or coversely with poor footholds where a change in angle or pressure can cause them to ping off. Thus dynamically makes sense.

A few things I try to do:

Play around with different body positions and hold combinations on the problems. Sometimes the largest holds are not the easiest ones to spring from.

Carefully check out the target hold, clean it well, mark where the good bit is.

Remember to push with the feet.

Occasionally cutting loose might be a good option. On mid-grade problems it can often be relatively easy to hold the target hold, and jumping with the feet might be more efficient than fighting harder to stay attached and doing a move slower.

Hip flexibility can be useful to get in closer to the wall to maximise adhesion on handholds.

Training-wise....not so sure, other than finding problems with poor footholds, training dynamic moves, training leg power.

[cheque]

Co-ordination of your whole body is the key to a lot of moves on grit because, as Fiend says, you’re usually dealing with holds that are unpositive and thus intolerant of being held from more than one specific direction.

At the point where you’d fight through by bearing the fuck down on more positive holds you’ll just get spat off grit ones so you need to get the knack of making the move with a kind of co-ordinated “flick” to stick the move without that point occurring. Hopefully that makes sense. 

Basically you need to climb on grit loads. Obviously there’s the interplay between strength and technique that’s part of all climbing but broadly speaking I’d say if you can climb at a given grade on lime but not grit then it’s technique rather than strength that needs training to match them up.

[Wellsy]

Yeah I'm definitely trying to learn to climb more dynamically with flicks and deadpointing as it's more efficient and applicable to all styles, largely by setting board moves I can't do statically etc.

In terms of the element of angles on non positive holds and especially when you're up "high" on them so they're even worse as you both say, I think that's definitely where I'm finding the issues to be. Like where holds are positive and hard pulling is needed I've been able to do all the moves on a problem and link it WAY faster than ones where they aren't, even if they're 3-4 grades harder (I find the moves on The Lark 6C+ and Gorilla Warfare 7A to all be way easier than like, one move slapping up on whatever 6B/+ I'm trying). I think I probably do just need to try it a lot to get used to it, it's just quite frustrating in that it shuts me down a lot right now!

It's basically those coordinated flicks while having the right body position I guess, which is just hard to learn.

[Fultonius]

If you can, go wander about until you see someone good doing these types of problems, then just copy!