[shark]

600 

11.6 dropping to 11.3. Average 159.0  +0.3lbs

M. Early PM FB warm up. Foot on campusing to failure. 6 sets between 34 and 22 secs. Early Eve Systems board laddering on incut edges to failure. 5 sets between 78 and 41secs

T. PM walk with Poppy from Gardoms parking to Birchens down to Robin Hood then back along Gardoms

W. Round trip to Malverns to pick up new (to me) van

T. Lunch FB warm up. Foot on campusing as on Monday. PM/Eve Systems Board as on Monday. Some decent improvements in both routines.

F. Mid PM Dentist for a filling Early Eve A few pulls on the Bachar ladder. Surprised to manage a double on both arms. Archer pull-ups.  5 sets of decent quality double archer pull-ups ie two either side with chin over bar. Glad I trained when I did as anaesthetic wore off afterwards.

S.

S.

Pleased to reverse weight gain following last weekends excesses.

After a 12 day break from the Tor heading there again tomorrow with Nick hoping that the break, foot on campus type training and cooler temps will elicit some progress on the crux section of Cross N’Angry. 🤞

[RobK]

Hope the van works out for you Shark.

M - Rest. Lunchtime mobility (30 mins).

T - TRX Ts, TRX rows, press ups, pull ups.

W - Mobility (30 mins). Evening Boardroom session: fast pull ups, an hour of mid-grade bouldering, 10 or so Moonboard benchmarks (6A+ - 6B+, all flash bar one), 3 reps of the circuit board 6c before calling it a day with sore skin.

T - Rest. Stretching (30 mins).

F - Ruthin after work on me tod. Threw a rope down Sting Like a Bee 7c, an 8 metre 'route'. All the hard climbing is in the lower half so worked out the top moves, pulled the rope, and then did it above a pad. Only two hard moves before you hit jugs, basically a 7A/+ boulder problem. Wet top out made it more exciting than it should have been. Then to the Boardroom: fast pull ups, 30 minutes bouldering, finishing with a good circuit board set. 7a+ to begin with to get the pump levels up then reps of the 6c with 1-2 minutes rest between each lap. Lost count but probably 6-8 laps.

S - Rest. Stretching (30 mins).

S - Outdoor plans were scuppered by forecast rain. Ended up going to explore Blochaus, new centre in Manchester. A monster plastic session, was there for about 4 hours. Broken by the end and skin very thin. Will probably have a good stretch this evening.

Probably more indoor climbing in the past week than I've done for the rest of the year. Psyched to get some training in to hopefully help in finishing off a few projects so renewed my Boardroom pass. Definitely need to work at fitting in more 'in-season' training in future years. My skin is super thin as a result though. Some antihydral arrived in the post yesterday so going to start very cautiously experimenting with that.

[Wellsy]

Monday - pretty sure I went to the Works and did some circuits followed by strength training (bench and rows). Tried a bit harder than usual which was good.

Tuesday - rested

Wednesday - went to Anston. Did a 6C. Started a new 7A+ project; Takashi Sit Start. Actually a bit of a banger! I need to figure out the dynamic move to the high pocket, was trying it by going over with the right, reckon I need to try and go up with the left while keeping my other hand low on the undercut. Feels promisingly close though. Had a few goes on Colt 7A+ and still can't get the left hand slap up but feeling closer. Tbh I'd be happier projecting it if there wasn't horseflies under there, but I'll occasionally go and give it a few burns. Feels stiff though.

Thurs - Works for an hour cos it was rammed. Did some circuits on the route board bit cos nobody else was on em, just trying to develop a bit of endurance in the forearms

Friday - big Works session on the new Murples. Did one(ish) and some others seemed promising. Have decided need to get back to trying hard indoors so had a proper solid effort, nearly three hours of bouldering and then half am hour of strength training.

Saturday - Stanage Far Left. Did a 5+ (can't recall the name) and another 5+ called Seranata Start which is sandbagged to shit and harder than most 6Bs. Attempted Green Room Slap for a laugh; best go in the dozen or so attempts was about 5" below the hold, turns out one move 7A+s on grit are hard, who knew.

Got to the last move on Love Handles 6A and got psyched out; managed to get my psyche back and give it another go but my skin was just fucked. Will be back to do as is a pure head project rather than something where the climbing is actually challenging. Low psyche recently due to the black dog rearing it's head didn't help but will soldier on and all that.

Sunday - Went to a wildlife park with a load of goths and ate pizza I.e rested.

Overall head is in a weird place recently but am getting lots of outdoor climbing in and am thinking of ways to try and train a bit more boldness/confidence as well as develop grit skills and just generally enjoy myself.

[Fiend]

600 days on The Oak

[Duma]

Hope you're ok Wellsy.

M - Eve, Cheddar, wave. Some forgettable 6c to warm up, then more failure on the crux move of Slix. Did the link from ground to crux, but that's pretty trivial on a route like this. It was really hot and skin was struggling on the lh crimp, but think in reality it's prob just beyond me. Will prob give it one more session before sacking it. Finished by flashing a pretty crappy 7a (Ritual Slaughter) which was made much more memorable by doing it in the dark by headtorch. Last of the eve sessions here this year, light was gone by just after 8.
T - work, 12hr shift.
W - work, 12hr shift.
T - waited all day for a parcel that didn't arrive
F - TCA, 2 hrs bouldering, trying the new whites (7A - 7C (but the ones I did were mostly high 6's)). Knackered at the end, and could feel forearms next day. Def out of shape for this after pootling on a rope outdoors all summer.
S - work, 12hr shift.
S - work, 12hr shift.

71kg

[Will Hunt]

W - an evening's swim in the Wharfe. Fine to get in but got quite chilly.

Th - board session with #sammarks. We couldn't do the established 6C classics so made up some 5/6A stuff. One went down and the other is close. Psyched to finish off and psyched for more pulling.

Sa - Malham. Dogged up New Dawn and the difference in the conditions was palpable. First time on the traverse that it's felt OK and a sequence came naturally. Later rinsed the boulder problem and left the tufa rest feeling OK. Was flowing through the traverse nicely and got to the move to the backhand when I realised I had forgotten to stop and clip the bolt pre-run out. Grabbed the draw and clipped then dogged to the top. Came down feeling happy that I'd climbed well up to there but dismayed that the whole sequence around the ledge feels really hard when tired. Clipping the post-runout draw feels very hard off the two finger undercut and standing up past there feels tough. Final go got to the same place but a foot slip on the traverse and resulting additional work to recover from it meant I was gassed at the backhand so sat on the rope.

All in all a happy sesh as it's the first time I've been on that route and climbed reasonably well. Psyche's back!

[duncan]

Thanks Simon. Interested to hear how you get on with foot-on campusing. I found it hard on the elbows, I probably needed to ease into it more gently next time. 

Look after yourself Wellsy.

M - Tired from Westway session. 10km walk.
T - Portland with AJM and the impeccably behaved miniAJM. Not a good start as it took 2 hours to get to the start of the M3 despite leaving before 7am. We’re back to ‘normal’ traffic. Baking temperatures but with an easterly breeze off the sea which made Neddyfields tolerable and very pleasant once it came into shade. Onsighted 7 routes from 6a+ to 6b+. Rediscovered some 無心 [mushin] for the first time in a long time. Long drive home.
W - Exhausted. 5km walk, nearly a day off but managed the 30 mins. of “brisk” activity!
T - Westway autobelay: 3 laps (6-7 minutes on) - 6-7 minutes rest with a moderate pump x 8 sets.
F - Shoulders work. 10km walk
S - Fingerboard hangs (bodyweight) and pick-ups (35kg) on 18-19mm edge. Some plastering and painting. Shoulders. 10km walk.
S - Shoulders. Legs: squats and single-leg squats.


A pretty good week: a very enjoyable day at Portland, a decent long endurance session, and I started easing back into fingerboarding. Shoulder still iffy but I’m doing more and it’s not getting any worse.

Hope to get out sometime this week, do more onsighting and long endurance work. Trip to Pembroke at the end of the month and trying to get a bit fitter for this.

[JohnM]

M - Travelling back from the UK.

T - Nothing, feeling knackered.

W - Trail run 13.72km 493m.

T - Climbing at Geisterscmiedwand with Chris S. Warmed up on a 7a+ I had done a couple of weeks back. Any familiarity still didn't make it a good warm up. Boiling hot and I took too long and got pumped. Back on the awesome 8a+ I had tried a couple of weeks back as well. Again, it went really well on the first go bolt to bolt but on the link I didn't get anywhere. I don't like to blame conditions all the time but it was so sweaty and I also climbed badly in the first crux. I am also a little bit hesitant after my fall the week before. Any diagonal run outs or bits where the rope wasn't directly between my legs played on my mind. I was meant to be wearing my helmet for every route but kept forgetting and realising half way up! I have got myself a new lightweight helmet so hopefully I can get into the habit of wearing it. Finished on a 7b that I got completely shut down on and gave up on half way up.

F - Trail running 12.23km 588m

S - Indoor climbing. Shoulder stability, campus progressions, 8c crux replicas and some free bouldering on the coloured circuits. The shoulder stability on the bar was good. One set of scap engagements and then another set releasing an arm and holding engaged on one arm for 5 secs. Felt much better on my right shoulder which usually has a impinged/trapped feeling which I over compensate for as I am stronger down that side of my body. I felt pretty solid campusing despite not doing any for a few weeks. Went backwards on boulder crux replica 1, a big roll over off a left shoulder gaston but big improvements on boulder crux replica 2. Free bouldering was ok but some indoor boulders I get completely shut down on and can't even start. Solid session.

S - Trail running 25.9km 1589m. Was awake nearly all night and something really disagreed with me from the Greek restaurant the night before. After 3km my stomach was sending warning signals and I decided it was safer to run home than to try and make it to the forest! Therefore, I ended up doing an extra 6km on the flat and put in a shift trying to catch my girlfriend up on the first big 1000m climb after heading out again. I felt terrible though and was sweating a lot. I over took a middle aged guy in three quarter length trousers with a beer gut at the bottom of the climb but I just couldn't drop him. The guy was a machine and his coughing and pole click-clacking was a constant presence behind me! This annoyed me (not him personally, just the fact I was so slow) but I finally caught the mrs up at the top of the climb. Did a nice trail contouring the mountain but then bailed on the idea of continuing up and doing a grade 3 alpine ridge traverse due to how tired and negative I felt and ran back down.

A weird week. I felt knackered all week and a bit off and as we subsequently learned that half my family had caught Covid (and loads of other people in their village), and we had spent an hour in the car with my Dad on the way to Manchester airport with him coughing I kind of assumed we probably had caught it too. However, all the tests came back negative including the day 5 PCR test that we had to take. It turns out that we were just tired from a week that included two weddings, loads of drinking but also climbing and running nearly every day! I am happy that the vaccine seems to have worked, for us at least! Can't seem to catch a break with climbing outdoors at the moment. The fundamentals feel good when I climb indoors (campusing, fingers, shoulder stability are as good as ever) but I can't seem to get anything done outdoors. Hopefully, when the weather cools down and conditions get better some stuff will come together!   

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - gym. Snatch DL.
Thu - bar work, loaded carries.
Fri - EMOM weights.
Sat - rest (350 kms of turns!).
Sun - 10 boxing rounds, 20' jog.

[Duncan Disorderly]

STG: Get fighting fit for Portland next week and Kaly in October!

M: Stoney west with the GF - Onsighted up to F6b+, GF rinsed an F6a on toppy... Nice and quiet and decent connies later on.
T: Planned High Tor mission went out the window due to it being hotter than the surface of the sun. Got talked into Willersley.... Fuck me! What a nightmare! Warmed up on Pothole Wall (VS) and have never known anything like it! Condensation on all the low down, uber polished, holds made it probably the slipperiest thing I've ever climbed! Managed to deck on rope stretch (seconding so s'all good!) when all 4 points of contact simultaneously went ping/slurp... Couldn't trust a thing after that, absolute horrorshow! Managed to talk Jus into sacking it off and going bolt clipping but only after a go on PTO (E2 - when dry)... What the actual fuck! The entire roof section (by the threads) was dripping... He somehow managed to levitate up it (bon effort!) and I probably expended enough energy to light up Matlock sliming through the roof crack on the 2nd, only to bin it going over the final roof when I threw for a non-hold pumped out of my mind!! Probably the worst climbing experience of my life but definitely character building 
Finally sacked it off and went to Masson Lees - Warmed up retro flashing an F6b+ (Eye Eye), dropped an F7a (Fuck Your Gods) on the onsight, went pretty easily on the first RP, finished by onsighting a nice F6c+ (Cattle Mutilation Expedition) ... Absolutely destroyed! Ace day out!
W: Rest
T: Rest - still knackered!
F: Routes @ AW - Still tired (wtf!  )... Just about managed to get up some F6b's.
S: Feeling better - 20ish miles on the bike.
S: AW on me tod - Warmed up and felt like a bag of spanners, decided to just have a quick boulder and then go for a pint. Somehow flipped the switch and had a great session. Flashed about 15 blocs around V4/V5 and a few harder ones 2n'd or 3rd go then jumped on the auto-belays, did a new F6c+ second go, F7a first try and 2/3 of an F7b+! Finished with a couple of sets of 4's up to F6b... Surprised myself!

Big week... Feel like it's coming together, fitness wise... Need to top up on the power/PE as definitely felt the crux on the F7b+ sapped a lot of my beans, maybe do some foot on campussing and some steep bouldering along with some general steeper climbing should be on the cards this week???
Shame to miss out on High Tor as it might have been my last chance this season (Portland for a few days next week then back for a week of childcare before Kaly for 3 weeks will probably leave us in the wet season) ahh well... it's not going anywhere... Feeling the Psyche tho so it's all good!

[Wellsy]

Cheers guys. "This too shall pass" as they say.

[mr chaz]

600 days weeks on The Oak

[shark]

T: Planned High Tor mission went out the window due to it being hotter than the surface of the sun being too slack to take up Shark’s offer of an alpine start

[Coops_13]

M: Wild Basin, RMNP. Went to the Riverside area and quickly did Dating Jesus V6 then moved onto Maneater, gets V8 in a lot of places but felt V7 to me. Hard for me in current condition but sent in the end with some fight, psyched! Tried Dating Jesus Direct (V8) but too hard for me.


T: Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl. Squat 165lb X5 *5sets.

W: DBC. Tester session for my new training plan I'm starting next week. Warm-ups involving, contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ flash). Max hangs 7/53 *6hangs 18mm +30lb, felt tough but good intensity. Boulder mini-project H-, spent 20 mins on two boulders. Limit bouldering (30 mins) on the 30 degree board - tough, sent two boulders and failed on a third. M- cool down. Supplemental Strength Training. Three supersets - lock-offs and hollow body holds felt hard

S: Area E, Mt Evans. First time in this area - very undocumented. Psyched to see the huge Cell Block E boulder. Unfortunately stashed pads weren't at the pin we were given so could try some of the amazing high climbs. Started trying Entangled V7 but couldn't pull off the floor (high undercuts) - might be better to wait for some snow and try next year. Something popped in my knee while trying and some pain over the next couple of days but seems to be improving so nothing serious I think. Did a left-hand entrance (around V5) which was good. More exploring on loads of boulders and tried a few before settling on the FA of a low-ish ball boulder in the meadow. Scrittley top and my lack of creativity for names birthed Scrittle Arete V5. What a back drop though...


Start a new training plan today but also in the midst of trying to buy a house so we'll see how successful the next few months are...

[Duncan Disorderly]

T: Planned High Tor mission went out the window due to it being hotter than the surface of the sun being too slack to take up Shark’s offer of an alpine start

[Bradders]

Scheduled rest week this week, no hard climbing whatsoever.

M - went to Lound Hill hoping to try Colour of the Sky but unfortunately the temp spike meant it was soaked with condensation. Dropped a rope down it and Mind Echo for a quick feel of the holds anyway. Cool spot.

Tu - AM wrist exercises including pinch grip pick ups, then half my normal fingerboard session, 4x 10s half crimp 26mm edge, 3 min rests, +35kg. Finished with some 20mm edge pull ups.

W - rest

Th - AM 2.5km easy run followed by 1km walk

F - drive to Peak District for my stag weekend. Fair amount of drinks in the evening and bed after 3am.

Sa - slow start but made it to The Roaches for a couple of hours. Did lots of the easy slabs and the classic Three Pockets Wall, plus Stretch Left. Then played laser tag for 3 hours which was amazing but completely knackering. Pub meal and drinks in the evening. Brilliant day.

Su - grabbed a couple of hours at Cratcliffe to finish the weekend. Easy stuff. Briefly tried Jerry's but too tired to make any impression. Managed The Lark after a few goes which I thought was brilliant, great board style climbing. Escaped just as the rain arrived about 2pm.

[SA Chris]

Cheers guys. "This too shall pass" as they say.

Combination of Wildlife parks, pizza and goths not a bit dangerous? 2 of those 3 would have a bad effect on anyone!

Jokes aside, we are here. 

[Wellsy]

Surprisingly chirpy creatures, goths! In my experience anyway.

But yeah, cheers. Much appreciated