UKBouldering.com

Bruised finger pulp (Read 4167 times)

ducko

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 748
  • Karma: +39/-6
Bruised finger pulp
September 03, 2021, 11:20:05 pm
Ola Gringos,

 I’ve got quiet chunky fingers and when clinbing on edges I get bruised pulp under my fingertips regular, it’s a pain in the hoop as my skin is fine but to climb is painful

I was wondering if anyone has the same issue and has found any work around for this issue?

Cheers fellas

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#1 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 04, 2021, 08:22:06 am
I get the same when I manage to stick small holds I'm slapping for. I have not found any workarounds other than to accept the pain. It is just pain after all.

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 496
  • Karma: +64/-1
#2 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 04, 2021, 09:03:11 am
I have a similar issue and am currently trying to resolve it by doing longer duration hangs on micros. For me this currently means 15s reps on the BM 8mm - hoping it will help build tolerance in the longer term!

ducko

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 748
  • Karma: +39/-6
#3 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 04, 2021, 07:58:31 pm
I have a similar issue and am currently trying to resolve it by doing longer duration hangs on micros. For me this currently means 15s reps on the BM 8mm - hoping it will help build tolerance in the longer term!

I’d be interested in hearing how this works for you, I don’t find it as bad in the winter when it’s cold

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#4 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 04, 2021, 09:02:10 pm
Isn't this what antihydral is supposed to help with? Not tried it myself other than the similar Rhino Skin products.

Otherwise as Micha says I think it's something you can condition, so same principle as anything else build up gradually. 

ducko

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 748
  • Karma: +39/-6
#5 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 04, 2021, 11:40:51 pm
Isn't this what antihydral is supposed to help with? Not tried it myself other than the similar Rhino Skin products.

Otherwise as Micha says I think it's something you can condition, so same principle as anything else build up gradually.
I think antihydral just drys the outer layers of skin the issue is the fleshy bits getting bruised rather than skin being thin
I’m definitely interested in the conditioning though, cheers

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 496
  • Karma: +64/-1
#6 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 09:16:33 am
Isn't this what antihydral is supposed to help with? Not tried it myself other than the similar Rhino Skin products.

Antihydral does the same thing as Rhino but with a more intense effect due to a higher quantity of the active ingredient Methanamine. It does help quite a bit as it hardens up the outer layers of skin - for me the difference is so significant that I can currently only hang the BM 6mm if I've been using antihydral for several days - hence why I'm trying to improve the general state of things!

As mentioned by ducko though, it's apparently possible to condition the fleshy bit of the fingertip to be more dense so this is what I'm trying with the 15s hangs. Headed to Siurana in a few weeks so hoping to feel a little less crap on the small crimps by then!

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#7 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 09:39:09 am
When you say bruising, do you mean just pain, or actual visible bruises under the skin? 

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#8 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 09:54:26 am
I cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2574
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#9 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 09:58:08 am
I cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.

Same, like the outer skin is stronger than the flesh underneath!

I saw some Euros applying some sort of topical pain killer (maybe lidocaine?) to their tips in Switzerland, seemed like a bad idea on a few levels!

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1258
  • Karma: +87/-1
#10 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 10:38:10 am
I cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.

Same, like the outer skin is stronger than the flesh underneath!

I saw some Euros applying some sort of topical pain killer (maybe lidocaine?) to their tips in Switzerland, seemed like a bad idea on a few levels!

Might as well just try the more common Saturday night blend of lidocaine and cocaine for a few extra horsepower

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 496
  • Karma: +64/-1
#11 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 10:39:08 am
I cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.

Same, like the outer skin is stronger than the flesh underneath!

I saw some Euros applying some sort of topical pain killer (maybe lidocaine?) to their tips in Switzerland, seemed like a bad idea on a few levels!

Seem to remember a video of Steph Davies where she talks about taking painkillers before going crack climbing to reduce the discomfort  :blink:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#12 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 10:57:06 am
I cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.

Yeah, me too, hence the question. slapping for sharp crimps seems to do it for me.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#13 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 11:33:16 am
I cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.

Same, like the outer skin is stronger than the flesh underneath!

I saw some Euros applying some sort of topical pain killer (maybe lidocaine?) to their tips in Switzerland, seemed like a bad idea on a few levels!

Seem to remember a video of Steph Davies where she talks about taking painkillers before going crack climbing to reduce the discomfort  :blink:

On very painful finger sized splitters the trick is apparently to climb up a bit, lower down, take a paracetamol, wait for the double whammy of painkillers and adrenaline to kick in and then send the crack. Another trick is to avoid doing early repeats of fingersplitters in Indian Creek and wait until they have gotten more rounded edges. Or getting strong enough to climb in total control.

nic mullin

Online
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 225
  • Karma: +20/-0
#14 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 11:38:31 am
I suffer with this too, the thing that makes the biggest difference for me is warming up thoroughly on comfy holds of varying sizes.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#15 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 12:45:17 pm
i.e. indoors :)

ducko

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 748
  • Karma: +39/-6
#16 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 06, 2021, 10:02:00 pm
When you say bruising, do you mean just pain, or actual visible bruises under the skin?
Visible damage - I don’t know the exact technical name but it shows as a line across the tip almost like loads of little bloody vessels have popped.
Living in Wales (CrimpsVille) it’s a pain in the hoop!

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#17 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 07, 2021, 08:28:07 am
I think haematoma is the correct word,

unless when jwi says

Quote
visible haematomata

he means his fingers look like squashed tomatas :)

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +72/-1
#18 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 07, 2021, 09:32:21 am
Ola Gringos,

 I’ve got quiet chunky fingers and when clinbing on edges I get bruised pulp under my fingertips regular, it’s a pain in the hoop as my skin is fine but to climb is painful

I was wondering if anyone has the same issue and has found any work around for this issue?

Cheers fellas

One way I got over this is by toughening and trying to desensitise the affected area.
I found simply just massaging and pushing my thumb nail into the tip was a good starting point, gradually building up pain tolerance.  This was a tip I was given when I started playing the guitar but it seems to apply to crimpers as well.

Another thing I used was heat. After making my morning coffee in the moka pot I would put my tips on the hot base for a few seconds. This worked really well over time, just don't do it on serious climbing days if you are not used to it.

You may already do these things but I thought it worth mentioning..

ducko

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 748
  • Karma: +39/-6
#19 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 07, 2021, 09:33:57 am
Ola Gringos,

 I’ve got quiet chunky fingers and when clinbing on edges I get bruised pulp under my fingertips regular, it’s a pain in the hoop as my skin is fine but to climb is painful

I was wondering if anyone has the same issue and has found any work around for this issue?

Cheers fellas

One way I got over this is by toughening and trying to desensitise the affected area.
I found simply just massaging and pushing my thumb nail into the tip was a good starting point, gradually building up pain tolerance.  This was a tip I was given when I started playing the guitar but it seems to apply to crimpers as well.

Another thing I used was heat. After making my morning coffee in the moka pot I would put my tips on the hot base for a few seconds. This worked really well over time, just don't do it on serious climbing days if you are not used to it.

You may already do these things but I thought it worth mentioning..
Nice one I’ll give them a try

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#20 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 07, 2021, 09:45:44 am
I think haematoma is the correct word,

unless when jwi says

Quote
visible haematomata

he means his fingers look like squashed tomatas :)

potato–potata, tomato–tomata

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#21 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 07, 2021, 09:49:37 am
Let's call the whole thing off.

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 496
  • Karma: +64/-1
#22 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 07, 2021, 10:29:42 am
Something that has surprised me since deliberately trying to improve is how long the finger pulp seems to take to recover after the skin feels well healed.

Yesterday went to do another micros session but felt really weak on the 8mm compared to last session. Almost called it a day but decided to just get on the 45 and see how bouldering went; actually ended up having one of the best sessions for weeks getting loads done and ticking a new hard boulder. Recruitment and power was way up compared to last session.

Whilst being a bit confusing I actually view this as a good thing as it suggests that pulp condition does have a really big influence on what is possible with the small edges. My fingertips still felt noticeably softer/malleable where I'd been hanging on the small crimps on Saturday. Funnily I didn't notice these differences when doing shorter (5-7s) hangs on micros before so presumably more time hanging is more effective?

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1258
  • Karma: +87/-1
#23 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 07, 2021, 11:17:47 am
Hopefully still on topic, but does anyone notice a massive and seemingly disproportionate drop off in performance when a particular edge size is used?

I find my performance drops off a cliff on the 6mm micros in comparison to the 8mm. E.g. I can add quite a bit of weight on the 8's and hang for over 10 seconds, but can barely complete a 5 second bodyweight hang on the 6's! Likewise the skin damage goes from none at all at 8mm (even weighted), to cutting into the skin on every tip at 6mm!

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#24 Re: Bruised finger pulp
September 07, 2021, 10:03:40 pm
Hopefully still on topic, but does anyone notice a massive and seemingly disproportionate drop off in performance when a particular edge size is used?

I find my performance drops off a cliff on the 6mm micros in comparison to the 8mm. E.g. I can add quite a bit of weight on the 8's and hang for over 10 seconds, but can barely complete a 5 second bodyweight hang on the 6's! Likewise the skin damage goes from none at all at 8mm (even weighted), to cutting into the skin on every tip at 6mm!

Think of it this way, going down from 8mm to 6mm you lose 25% of the starting hold, so it would seem reasonable if the 6mm were 25% harder...

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal