[kingholmesy]

After retreating from an earlier attempt a couple of years ago (see write-up here https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30390.msg596370.html#msg596370), I am made up to have returned and completed a new route on Willapark (which is the massive cliff on the opposite side of the bay from the Tintagel bouldering).

Obviously I'm biased, but I think this is one of the best adventure routes in the South West.

It's four pitches of proper good climbing, and although pegs and warthogs are essential it actually climbs mostly good rock, and the positions are outrageous.

Rather than repeat the (lengthy) route description, for anyone interested it can be found in the UKC logbooks here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/willapark_cliff-18330/morganas_mead-635001.  I'll try to add a photo topo to UKC when I can.

[Duma]

as I said last time:

I've often looked over at that cliff and wondered at quite how deranged you'd have to be to attempt to climb it...

glad you got up safely you loon.

[dunnyg]

Can you draw a topo version on UKC? I'm unlikely to repeat it, but the cliff looks wild. Good effort 

[SA Chris]

I've often looked over at that cliff and wondered at quite how deranged you'd have to be to attempt to climb it...

Just looked at the photo, nope! Expect to be demonised you nutter. Well done.

[duncan]

I've often looked over at that cliff and wondered at quite how deranged you'd have to be to attempt to climb it...

Once looked across at that cliff shortly after doing Il Duce and on the way to check out Bird Brain on Lye Rock, in other words I was going well on that kind of territory. It looked mad.

[Hoseyb]

 Strong lines on that cliff. Well done.. Keeping it anachronistic in these safety conscious times.

However, from personal experience I found that once I stopped these Errol Flynn type adventures for a period of time I was unable to pick up the skills enough to not run away screaming. So keep going! Or not.
The door shuts hard

[Fiend]

Top effort, am personally quite envious as my SW chossaneering is really quite minimal, sounds very life-affirming.

[duncan]

However, from personal experience I found that once I stopped these Errol Flynn type adventures for a period of time I was unable to pick up the skills enough to not run away screaming. So keep going! Or not.
The door shuts hard

That's an interesting observation (you should write a blog!).

As above, I had a spell when I was into this kind of thing. After five years abstinence, tried a route at Compass Point and found my capacity had vanished completely.

[kingholmesy]

Cheers all. It’s a strong line (I’ll add a topo when I can), great climbing, and very “life affirming”!

@Duncan - Bird Brain is on the list. If you did it, did you abseil back to the boulder choke or walk down the back of the island and traverse around?  I’m currently trying to work out how to juggle tides to both get to the start of the route and get off the island afterwards ….

[andy popp]

@Duncan - Bird Brain is on the list. If you did it, did you abseil back to the boulder choke or walk down the back of the island and traverse around?  I’m currently trying to work out how to juggle tides to both get to the start of the route and get off the island afterwards ….

I've done Bird Brain, I think with Frank Ramsay. I've no recollection of getting off, which suggests we didn't ab, maybe? The route itself was great, not a horrorshow

[kingholmesy]

Cheers Andy. I’ve not got a copy, but I think the Littlejohn south west guide talks about walking down the back side of the island then doing a sea level traverse back around to the front and walking out at low tide - but I suspect this isn’t possible at higher tides.

I’ve got a friend who has a recollection of abbing off, but he was pretty vague.

Ps - not a horrorshow is a good enough recommendation for me!

[kingholmesy]

@Fiend - if you want some inspiration for full on chossteering then Clark Alston’s article on Javu is quite entertaining: https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/RubbleTrubble/index.shtml

Most of the stuff I have done on the coast is a bit more conventional.  Maybe I’ll put together a recommended list another time.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

This is a public forum.
Can someone please moderate what appears to me, to be a flagrant disregard for how others might be influenced.

Please.


Life's precious.


Get on it 

Ahh, Frank Ramsay. Always climbed his best after two weeks away living on sausages with the TA.

[andy popp]

I’ve got a friend who has a recollection of abbing off, but he was pretty vague.

Sorry I can't remember more either - Frank was the local and would have been fully responsible for the logistics. And it was a long time ago.

[Hoseyb]

From South West climbs:
From the summit descend steep grassy ramps and ledges on the west side of the rock and either regain the boulder choke by a difficult sea level traverse or return via the small beach at low tide "

Swc was a Bible until I moved to North Wales

[kingholmesy]

For anyone interested I have added (an admittedly pretty crap quality) photo showing the line of Morgana’s Mead to UKC: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/willapark_cliff-18330/morganas_mead-635001#photos&gid=1&pid=2

Also, I repeated Bird Brain at Lye Rock on Saturday. We walked in at dead low tide from the small beach just to the north.  After topping out we walked along the top of the island until back immediately above the boulder chock and abbed off a couple of wobbly nuts and some manky tat (left in situ for future ascensionists), then waded out at what was almost low tide again - yes it really was nearly 12 hours later. 

Anyway, Bird Brain is great, but I thought it was pretty full on - never too hard, but quite an adventure.

[andy popp]

I repeated Bird Brain at Lye Rock on Saturday ... [it] is great, but I thought it was pretty full on - never too hard, but quite an adventure.

Excellent. But hope you didn't feel too mislead! Obviously, I had just about the best possible partner you could hope for on such a route.