the shizzle > new routes

[Cornwall] [Willapark] [Morgana's Mead] [XS, 5c]

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kingholmesy:
After retreating from an earlier attempt a couple of years ago (see write-up here https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30390.msg596370.html#msg596370), I am made up to have returned and completed a new route on Willapark (which is the massive cliff on the opposite side of the bay from the Tintagel bouldering).

Obviously I'm biased, but I think this is one of the best adventure routes in the South West.

It's four pitches of proper good climbing, and although pegs and warthogs are essential it actually climbs mostly good rock, and the positions are outrageous.

Rather than repeat the (lengthy) route description, for anyone interested it can be found in the UKC logbooks here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/willapark_cliff-18330/morganas_mead-635001.  I'll try to add a photo topo to UKC when I can.

Duma:
as I said last time:


--- Quote from: Duma on December 31, 2019, 08:32:35 am ---I've often looked over at that cliff and wondered at quite how deranged you'd have to be to attempt to climb it...

--- End quote ---

glad you got up safely you loon.

dunnyg:
Can you draw a topo version on UKC? I'm unlikely to repeat it, but the cliff looks wild. Good effort  :punk:

SA Chris:

--- Quote from: Duma on September 01, 2021, 10:49:48 pm ---I've often looked over at that cliff and wondered at quite how deranged you'd have to be to attempt to climb it...

--- End quote ---

Just looked at the photo, nope! Expect to be demonised you nutter. Well done.

duncan:



--- Quote from: Duma on December 31, 2019, 08:32:35 am ---I've often looked over at that cliff and wondered at quite how deranged you'd have to be to attempt to climb it...

--- End quote ---

Once looked across at that cliff shortly after doing Il Duce and on the way to check out Bird Brain on Lye Rock, in other words I was going well on that kind of territory. It looked mad.

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