[Ged]

Who is Sean Bailey then?  I've never heard the name.  Does he have form for this sort of thing?  I find it amazing that only the 4th person to climb a possible 9c is so unheard of

[shark]

I had to look him up. On the US team and good track record in comps. Did Biographie 5 years ago

[abarro81]

He's hardly unknown - multiple hard things at Ceuse, Oliana.. multiple 8C+ IIRC.. world cup victories (in both lead and boulder I think?)...

[teestub]

Yeah two 8C+ boulders and several >9a routes between comp training. Goes by ‘Steezy’ a lot of the time it seems which may be why his name is unfamiliar.

One of the new US comp wad generation with Coleman, Raboutou, Grossman etc.

[jwi]

Yeah, he won the bouldering in Salt Lake and Chamonix and Villars in lead this year. Also got 2nd overall in the world cup in lead and 4th overall in bouldering. Not shit.

As HaeMeS pointed out in the Significant Repeats thread, the Pizzeria in Sigoyer already broke the news half a week ago...

Bibliographie by Sean Bailey:

https://www.facebook.com/310104132349325/posts/5061076433918714/

Will the grade survive a possible French repeat?

[remus]

Little bit of info on the man himself https://climbing-history.org/climber/980/sean-bailey

Interestingly nothing harder than 9a+ from what I can find (though he did suggest 9a+/b for Grand Illusion, a long boulder problem). Big old jump that!

[jwi]

And Miho Nonaka jumped from 7c+ to 8c+ 🤷🏼‍♂️

[remus]

And Miho Nonaka jumped from 7c+ to 8c+ 🤷🏼‍♂️

I bet she won't jump again to 9a+ though.

In other news, sounds like Seb is getting close. Great to see a hard route getting this much attention.

[SA Chris]

Seb Grieve?

[Wood FT]

Seb Grieve?

God loves a trier

[Bradders]

Remember when there was speculation as to which would get repeated first; Silence or Bibliography?

I'd be willing to bet that Bibliography will have ascents approaching double figures before Silence gets a repeat!

[Rocksteady]

Remember when there was speculation as to which would get repeated first; Silence or Bibliography?

I'd be willing to bet that Bibliography will have ascents approaching double figures before Silence gets a repeat!

I wouldn't bet against you!
Looking at Bibliographie of course it looks incredibly hard but it looks recognisable, it looks like climbing that I understand. Just at a much more rarified level. It looks good!
Silence is a whole different world, the body positions are crazy, horrendous positions where you're hanging most of your weight on shouldery gastons, weird footwork, leg positions Ondra had to use a physio to help him get into. I can't imagine what it would feel like to climb. It looks horrible!

[teestub]

It looks horrible!

Yep, also seems to finish at a somewhat arbitrary point in the cave whereas Bibliographie looks to take the full height of the cliff like Biographie.

[remus]

Horses for courses I guess. The climbing on silence looks way more fun to me.

[Bonjoy]

It's the hardest route in the world, it's not supposed to be fun

[honroid]

It's the hardest route in the world, it's not supposed to be fun

 ;