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Massala Martyr middle section - Kilnsey (Read 2690 times)

Kingy

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Massala Martyr middle section - Kilnsey
August 12, 2021, 08:20:07 pm
I wondered if anybody could shed any light on the moves past directly past the 4th bolt on Massala Martyr. Are they still possible or have holds snapped off and the only way up this bit now is to climb 2 metres to the left to the massive glued jug, stretch right to clip the 4th bolt then trav to the right to rejoin the route?

Seems pretty blank the direct way. Anybody done it this way in the past? Also, the last bit going past the top bolt seems similarly blank and stepping to better holds out right before stepping back left seems the only way now - hold loss again?

Ru

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From what I remember the middle section was the redpoint crux - I think it went right hand on a crimp to undercut something with your left hand, right hand to intermediate crimp, high right foot onto the first crimp you had with your right hand, than do a big deadpoint to an ok something. No idea if any of that has broken off.

The last section did go out right then trav back to the left, or at least that was the received wisdom at the time.

Kingy

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Cheers Ru. I will have a proper look at those direct moves past the 4th. On UKC it describes Smarter Martyr as climbing to the left of the Massala bolts on this section and this is the way I climbed Massala today via this weaving line, will get the tippex out if I missed the RP crux! Seems a bit of a pointless deviation out left if the direct way is still possible so can only assume that whoever wrote it either didn't try going direct or something has snapped off. Will report back!

Incidently, there is a proj going straight up from the big glued jug with a hangar removed.

Stu Littlefair

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I knew Ru would remember. I was struggling to work out how we did this and all I could come up with was “something using an undercut”…

Kingy

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I guess the big glued jug is part of the project to the left. I reckon Massala is 8a+ via this loop out left as its steady climbing. Hopefully the true finish is still possible, TBC...

nik at work

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The direct finish hangerless bolt is mine, feel free to get on it. Seem to remember it’s not any harder than the climbing below, just makes the route more sustained. But also more balanced than going off right to easy ground after the crux IMHO.

Smarter Martyr from memory was just a direct Boulder problem start to Massala Martyr (fa by Crome) unless I’m remembering wrong?? The middle bit of both Madsala and Smarter are the same. Which is as Ru describes I guess?? My memory fails me… I remember giving Stu beta via PM back in the day I think?

Kingy

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Nice one Nik, that all makes sense. I agree Smarter and Massala are the same route apart from the boulder problem starts being different (Joint Enterprise V10 for Smarter). The start of Massala is about V8+ or V9 so both routes going direct at the 4th should be about the same route grade (Smarter would be a bit harder I guess due to the more difficult boulder). To be honest I didn't seriously try the moves past the 4th due to the broken hold rumours so I would imagine the moves as described are still possible but will confirm. Seems wack having a loop out left.

Cheers for the heads up about the project. I will put a hangar back on so it is an open project, hopefully somebody will do it soon!


turnipturned

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I tried the direct a bit last year, it thought it was pretty hard. I had a sequence, but it felt harder than the boulder at the bottom.

Stu Littlefair

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I dug this out from my pm's back in 2006 - thanks Nik.

Quote
The sequence for the top. From first break jugs. Left hand in the good side pull slotty thing in the break, right foot on the jug below the break, left foot on an obvious foothold just left of the pinchy hand hold. Go up with your right to an obvious small crimp to the left of the bolt. It has a sidepully bit you can really get your thumb on. The left hand to a crimpy edge a bit lower and out left. Swap feet. Left foot out to far left foot hold in the break. Left hand up to a not great undercut, really twist your hand upwards and wrap your thumb round a pokey knobble. Right foot up to the obvious place in the break. Drop in a sneaky left facing egyptian. Right up to pinchy sidepull thing, then right up again to slightly higher pinchy sidepull. Left foot next to right foot, right foot moves right along the break a few inches or so. Left foot up to a brushed white smear. Right foot up to the crimpy hold you used for your right hand at the start. Really get stood up on your feet. Pop your right hand up to the good hold (a very fast move). Romp to glory.

Note that Malc climbed the direct finish past the hanger less bolt around 2006, but IIRC Andy Chrome then ripped off the holds he used....

Kingy

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Good knowledge all. Shame the crag is such a moveable feast!

nik at work

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Note that Malc climbed the direct finish past the hanger less bolt around 2006, but IIRC Andy Chrome then ripped off the holds he used....
Can you clarify this Stu? Are you sure this is the same line because I definitely put that bolt in around the time Crome did Smarter Martyr (2010-ish??) before that there was no bolt in that section, meaning that top wall would have been pretty tricky, and quite run out, off that big old peg in the break to a single bolt lower off (I.e. I’d expect someone to have popped a bolt in…). Also don’t think Crome ever really tried that bit of wall, only me (he might have had a quick play at one point but didn’t pull anything off afaik). There is/was a potential line to the left kind of trending left/up from the Boulder problem start of Massala, maybe thinking of that? The bit I put a bolt in is just a Boulder prob type section from the break with the big peg direct up to the lower off, getting rid of the loop out right to easy ground. Which makes Massala (and or Smarter) into a series of three similar-ish Boulder problems with reasonable holds between.
All the above caveated with “not been to Kilnsey for ages, going senile, etc…”

Kingy

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Just to clarify which bolt is hangarless, the bolt on the direct finish to Massala is fine, hangar in place. I will check it out and see if still climable soon.

The bolt stub with the hangar removed is on what Nik describes as the 'potential line to the left kind of trending left/up from the Boulder problem start of Massala'. It is directly above the big glued jug which I used when avoiding the RP crux on Massala yesterday! This is a whole new project really (apart from the start of Massala).

Stu Littlefair

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That’s not what Malc did then…

Kingy

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The moves past the 4th bolt climb exactly like in Nik's PM, thanks for that! Hard stuff... Not linked it yet. All clean and chalked!

uptown

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Anyone know if someone has been trying the lefthand line?
I noticed some chalk, tickmarks and hangers on the top section yesterday.

Kingy

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That was me. I had a brief look at it on Tuesday. I don't think I'm keen to get back on it, seemed hideously hard. It was very dirty and dusty, possibly the holds might clean up a bit and get more grippy. Interesting to investigate it though.

 

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