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Brecon Beacons bouldering recommendations (or along route back to Leeds) (Read 1758 times)

Liamhutch89

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I'm making a trip to Tredegar, Wales for work on Wednesday / Thursday and on my drive home i'll be able to stop and get a few hours bouldering in.

I don't know any Welsh bouldering (or anything beyond Yorkshire / the peak really) and I'm looking for recommendations in the 7B-7C+ range. This can be in the area that I'm staying or along route back to Leeds. It doesn't necessarily have to be in Wales, as long as it's not within an hour and a half of Leeds. Preferably via the 3'57" route below but I can take the 4'46" route if it's worth it.

Thanks.


SA Chris

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Head via Stoke, and grab some good stuff in Staffs or do half the Wales route and cut across to Nesscliffe.

RobK

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The longer route will take you passed Nesscliffe and close to Devil's Gorge. Not sure how Ness will be after all the recent rain but if it's dry the terrace has some good stuff in the 7A-7C range. Devil's Gorge is your usual limestone cave scene, lots to go at from 7A upwards. Basically perma-dry at this time of year. And if you get lucky the stuff at the mouth of the gorge might be dry too.

The middle route would go within striking distance of Churnet but I've never been so can't off any info there...

petejh

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Churnet all day if it was me, it's 30mins detour off your second quickest route home (or 45 mins off your quickest route) and it's brilliant. Unless you've done loads there and want to go somewhere new.

casa

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AJM

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You go right past Huntsham on the shortest route, there's some stuff there worth looking at.

Paul B

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Churnet all day if it was me, it's 30mins detour off your second quickest route home (or 45 mins off your quickest route) and it's brilliant. Unless you've done loads there and want to go somewhere new.

This.

Liamhutch89

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Churnet is looking like a winner if weather permits. Amazingly, I had zero knowledge of the existence of this climbing area until now.

Paul B

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SA Chris

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Churnet is looking like a winner if weather permits. Amazingly, I had zero knowledge of the existence of this climbing area until now.

Worth having plans A,B & C for what the weather forecast is along the way..

Duma

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If you do want to stay in the beacons, the lonely boulder at langattock has a couple of good problems at the right grade in a lovely place. Only 9 miles from tredegar too
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_lonely_shepherd_area_llangattock-23517/the_lonely_traverse-452999#photos

sdm

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Churnet is looking like a winner if weather permits. Amazingly, I had zero knowledge of the existence of this climbing area until now.

Worth having plans A,B & C for what the weather forecast is along the way..
If the weather is bad, Biblins Cave is about the most weather proof crag in the country and is only a 5-10 minute diversion from your route. It is extremely rare for there to be nothing climbable there, even after multiple days of heavy rain and condensation is generally short lived, making things greasy and a bit harder rather than full on wet.

Has good problems at every grade from 7A upwards. Other than Freshly Squeezed, School of Grrl and Punter Proof Roof, everything else is fine without a spot but it's worth bringing a few pads.

Churnet has a reputation for being a wet weather crag which it is/isn't. Wright's Rock, Gentleman's Rock and some of the problems around Spellbound stay dry in rain due to the overhangs above. But if there is any dampness in the rock, it gets very weak and snappy and a lot of low footholds are getting trashed by people climbing them when they shouldn't. One day's rain is likely fine, even if it's heavy. Consecutive days of rain or misty, claggy weather and churnet is best avoided.

The Witness Block has very fickle conditions and is suffering badly from people climbing it when they should know better and from overbrushing.

Herbert

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www.martincrockerclimbing.com

I came across this recently - lots of esoteric Beacons  bouldering and routes covered along with other equally esoteric venues (largely SW England at first glance).

 

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