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Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021 (Read 2288 times)

RobK

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Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 08, 2021, 07:56:14 pm
M - Gorge after work. One go up to get the draws in Cerberus and check my new beta still worked then two RPs. Both high-points of getting the shot hole but then not making the subsequent clip, once because I had the draw in the wrong way round (it’s a weird above and behind your head in a roof position) and once because I was too boxed. Felt pretty dreadful (thought I was going to vom at one point) so I’ll take that. Good to see Ally developing some cool looking new ground.

T - Rest.

W - Gorge after work. Cerberus again. The usual warm up to get the draws in, feeling better than Monday. First RP I puntered about entering the crux and took early. Second RP was better and I made the clip I couldn’t on Monday. Proceeded to drop the next move which is only two or three hard moves from the top. Inching the high point higher.

T - Rest.

F - Boardroom session after watching the olympic finals. Four lead routes on steep ground in the 7a/+ region which got me pretty pumped. Pull ups and some easier comp boulders on the outdoor wall to finish.

S - Rest. A very lazy day. Quite a bit of stretching in front of the TV.

S - Chanced a session at the Gorge. Lots of the headwall dripping with run-off and the bottom couple of bolts were pretty greasy, but Cerberus looked in decent enough nick. Felt pretty shoddy warming up on the fingerboard at home beforehand but went up to put the draws in and rinsed the top boulder problem. First RP I felt amazing, barely any pump after the initial Grand Canyon section. Easily did the move I dropped on Wednesday but then managed to get my hand the wrong side of the rope and came off. Was a bit gutted as I thought that was the go. Big rest and another RP. Cold hands for most of the lower part but came into the crux feeling good. Cruised the most of the boulder with a couple of power screams to get me through the last slap to the jug. Clipped the chains and got a nice round of applause from the crowd on the bridge.

Very happy to get Cerberus done. I first had a go on it in 2019 but then didn’t get on it at all last year due to a variety of Covid, conditions and psyche for other crags. Pete may have given it the downgrade in his guide, but it definitely felt like it got into the 8a bracket to me (in my admittedly very limited experience!). Maybe it’s just not my style. Regardless, it’s the best route in the gorge in my opinion and, unlike other projects, never even came close to seeming like a chore. Now to get Mussel Beach finished off so I can give the Diamond a good go this autumn.

yetix

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#1 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 08, 2021, 08:55:48 pm
Nice work Rob!


M: rest
T: Depot. Went round the purple circuit, did all but 3 or 4 I think.
W: rest
T: Griffs, warmed up briefly and managed to finally put Lovine to bed on my 3rd attempt. Briefly went to the Tor and tried Ben's again but too tired for those agro holds.
F: Depot, managed 6 yellows, tried another 8, I think 6 of which I came off on the last or 2nd to last move.
S: rest
S: Forest Rock, first time here, stuff in the cave was condensed so started on lucid interval, managed the first 3 moves, but kept falling off the 2nd RH bump to the small sidepull off a toehook. Next got on enchantress and quickly had in 2 halves. Managed to get to the last move by the 3rd go and then managed to fall off the last move maybe another 5 or 6 times.there to be done.


Bradders

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#2 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 08, 2021, 10:15:13 pm
Good work both, hard work paying off  :weakbench:

M - rest. Still feeling wonky from minor stomach bug on Sunday.

Tu - Chee Dale Two Tier. Still a bit sickly. Lucked out with conditions; constant cloud cover and a cool breeze at times. Rock cold. Mate was keen for Daylight Robbery so got on that with him and managed it 3rd go, having felt like I was going to be sick on 2nd go, and needing to spend some time working out the top section. Cool route. Hard for 7b. Finished with two goes on Blockhead, both goes dropping the 2nd crux by the 4th bolt. Partway through the session a pair of Apache gunships flew down the Dale!

W - Kilnsey. Stomach better but still not great. Warm up lap on Allakazam. Put clips in Subculture. Two redpoints, both times falling at the same move as on Saturday. Second time rested briefly and then went from there to the top. Warmed down on Allakazam trying to get it more refined.

Th - rest, drive to cottage for holiday

F - FB pick up session. 6x each of false grip, front 2 half crimp and middle 2 half crimp. Better than previous session. Then conditioning, Arnold press, dumbbell isometric holds and rotator cuff exercises.

Sa - rest.

Su - FB session 8x 10s half crimp 26mm edge +35kg (except last rep dropped to +30kg), 3 min rests. Followed by board session for an hour and a half. Decent one, made and did a good new medium and solid attempts on other things. Finished with 6x easyish problems with 3.3kg weight belt, then some more dumbbell isometric holds, leg lifts, hammer curls and rotator cuff exercises.

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#3 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 12:26:20 am
M: Density pickups up to 40lb. Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamsrting curl. Squat 165lb X5 *5sets. Lower body stretching

T: DBC. TA MH BM 1k 18mm up to +55lb, psyched! Bouldering doing a number of M+s and trying H-, starting to feel good again

W: Density pickups up to 40lb.

T: Guanella Pass. Sent Crap Traverse V6, good to get that done. Went up to Love Matters boulder and did Earth Matters Stand V7 quickly, skin quickly deteriorating. Tried Beyond Matters V8 a few times but not quite up to scratch. Had a few pulls on Dynamic Matters V8 but couldn't get knee bar to work.


F: Density pickups up to 40lb.

S: 2 mile walk round Cherry Creek Dog Park

S: Chief Mountain. Small new area with sharp and a bit chossy rock. Went to try Heavyweight Primate V8 but a bit fingery for me. Ended up getting Salsa Samba V5 as a consolation. DBC. Weighted pull-ups +47.5lb X5 *5sets

tc

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#4 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 12:40:34 am
...

Wellsy

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#5 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 10:20:36 am
After last week's advice I have decided to stop climbing and just campus every day... not.

Actually after last week's advice I have stopped campusing.

Monday: Went to Anston, got on Colt 7A+ which is rapidly becoming The Project for me right now. I managed to stick the left hand up to the good edge once and so basically have linked the entire bottom section, now it's a case of sort feet and go for the jug, which I feel is sort of the crux in a sense, but also that if I can find feet that work for me, it'll go. Probably 1-2 sessions away from that mind you. I then went to try the Last Stand... but I was too boxed. And also just low in psyche and energy. TBH I just wanted to go indoors and pull hard and get loads of training in without fucking about with pads and walk-ins and so on.

Tuesday: Rested.

Wednesday: Went to the Works accordingly. Decided to ease myself in with a big session doing like, loads of volume on somewhat easier stuff, which was good. Lot of carefully trying to improve technique. Felt good to just turn up and climb for a bit with no pressure.

Thursday: Rested and went for a 5k run.

Friday: Felt under the weather and like a couple of my fingers were feeling a bit painful. Decided to have a tactical second day's rest.

Saturday: Felt strong and fresh and went for a BIG session, with a new plan in mind; sack off the campus board, get on the Works Beastmaker Board and put together problems using only the slopey feet, with the rules being that I have to keep the feet on as much as possible. There are lots of moves I can do on that board where my feet cut, but I basically just spent a couple of hours forcing myself to do them over and over until I could do them without cutting and keeping feet on all the way. Felt very productive and like good training. I did a warm-up and cool down on dead easy stuff, and then a conditioning sesh (bench 5x5 at 65kgs plus warmup and cooldown sets, RDLs at about 70kgs for 3 sets of 6, deadlifts at about 90kgs for 3 sets of 6, and three sets of 40kgs barbell rows).

Sunday: Felt nicely blitzed BUT full of psyche. The Olympics plus a really good session the previous day has me mentally back where I should be, went for a short (3k) run in the morning to stretch out a bit and get some cardio in. Excited to be back with a big long training sesh this evening. TBH of late I have been a bit slack when it comes to the S&C and also the focused training so glad I've fucked about less and got back into it this week.

shark

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#6 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 10:43:23 am
Well done with your projects Rob and Yetix

11.4-5 average 158.8 (up 0.2lb)

M. AM Trowbarrow to chauffeur, pad carry and spot Goat. What a nice place! Ben made a beeline for the Vitruvian Man boulder but I was more curious about the quarry. Had just enough signal to check out the UKC logbook. There were off-putting comments about loose rock at the top of Jean Jeanie VS - the only route I’d heard of - but saw that there was a three star VDiff so went back to the car and got my shoes. Did that (Jomo) which was good and surprisingly unpolished with the reward of a good view at the top. Came down and noticed the attractive fluted finishes at the top of Assagai Wall and sussed out that the HVS of the same name finished up the right hand one. Picked my way carefully up the route ensuring I sussed the most stable and reversible method of doing the moves. All went well despite a family turning up at the bottom breaking my concentration and the laces of one of my shoes coming undone. The fluted finish was as good as it looked from the floor. Still really fancied one of the routes on the Jean Jeannie Wall but was suspicious of the rock quality. Thought I’d investigate Hollow Earth HVS which takes an intimidating line up an easyish corner but breaking out left onto the main wall at a stepped roof then following a continuous diagonal crack till it joined and finished up an offwidth. It was a challenging solo as I careful to ensure I was on the most solid footholds (one of the UKC comments mentioned someone had taken flight due to foothold coming off) and because the crack was polished and greasy and didn’t take many jams so had to lay off it quite a lot. Whilst ready to reverse at any point and finding it exciting I felt comfortable enough to do it all ok. Back on the floor I was by this time quite into it and idly contemplated Cracked Actor which looked amazing. Perhaps fortunately our allotted time was running out so packed up and joined the rest of the gang at Cartmell for an excellent pub lunch. Long entry even if physically it only qualifies as active rest but an unusual day for me. Decided a long time ago to limit my soloing to a very occasional treat.

T.

W.

T.

F  Ballache travel back from Llandudno. Eve. Some pulls on Bachar ladder. Tweaked lower lat on right side. Max hangs session

S.

S. PM Did some pulls on bachar ladder. Lat still a bit tweaky. Really rammed home how shit I am at locking off high (basically can’t do it on a ladder ring or bar) . Did some messing around on bar with assisted one armers and some googling and discovered archer pull-ups which seem like they might hit the spot and are quite cool so will give them a whirl for a few weeks and maybe some other pull up variations but will back off if I get tweaky which is what normally happens when I do this sort of stuff.
Eve. Max Hangs session. Some gains on Friday but still 10kg below scores from February.

Tommy tested positive for covid on Friday. He’s only had minor symptoms. I tested negative on lateral flow and then on the PCR test but still in isolation and obviously cancelled going down to Devon where I was looking forward to having a play on Cider Soak.

Using the opportunity to top back up on strength training.

Duncan Disorderly

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#7 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 12:34:06 pm
Biffing club...

M: Trad @ Long Scar - Lovely little crag... Led some stuff from VS to HVS to get some idea of how you actually place gear again... Got fed up with the faff and soloed a couple more... GF wasn't feeling the trad vibe so bailed earlier than I'd hoped.
T: Routes @ Bram Crag Quarry - Did some lovely stuff up to F6b+ and some harrowing slimy choss...
W: 20 miles on the bike - nice!
T: Nowt - school holiday child entertaining
F: Nowt - school holiday child entertaining
S: Nowt
S: Routes @ AW - Flashed stuff up to F6c+

Good to get out and actually place some gear - been a while... Also good to get some slab practice in... Bram is a funny place tho: good climbing interspersed with a load of choss and some harrowing situations where you're not sure what's holding the place up and whether what you're looking at pulling on/standing on will still be there when you get to it... Type 2 fun!
Cloggy on Friday (fingers crossed the weather holds) - feeling psyched!

duncan

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#8 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 01:24:41 pm
Well done Rob and Yetix. Hope you avoid the lurgy and can put the enforced home time to good purpose Simon. Good luck with the weather Duncan (may apply to me).

M - Shoulder conditioning: IsYsTs, supported handstands, planks.
T - Fingers: max. hangs to 90kg. A good session, guess what having a rest week works.!
W - Central Rib, Wintour’s Leap with the lad. We had done a different version of this a couple of years ago with me 'soloing with rope drag'. This time I had a proper belay and took some harder variations. Got a spontaneous "that was cool, can we do it again" at the top. He definitely enjoys climbing routes outside more than in, I don’t think this is entirely projection on my part!
T - Walked 10km around the Lippets Grove Nature Reserve looking at insects and stuff.
F - Fingers: max. hangs to 90kg.
S - Shopping hell. Walked 10km.
S - Fingers: a long endurance aerocap type session. Hung on the 20mm edge, using bathroom scales to give a constant 15kg load, alternating arms with 8-12 seconds on each, for 8 minutes. Felt like shaking-out on a poor hold with a mild-moderate pump, seemed pretty transferable to trad. climbing. I could have done much more but wasn’t sure how I would respond to a new exercise and didn’t want to over-do things as I was planning to climbing on Tuesday. 

A decent week: some fun with the lad, some try hard.

Finally got round to trying a long endurance workout on the fingerboard: very quantifiable, doesn’t trash the skin like a resin circuit board; very much just the forearms being worked and no movement skills tested. It’s so mindless you can completely switch off and watch a video, unlike any other kind of climbing training for me.

Had planned a Pembroke raid this week but, as of an hour ago, it was looking like partner might have to bail.   

Nibile

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#9 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 01:28:04 pm
Power Club

Mon - gym.
Tue - rest.
Wed - gym.
Thu - gym.
Fri - rest.
Sat - boxing bag, some weights, jog/stairs combo.
Sun - weights, loaded carries, jog/stairs.

JohnM

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#10 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 03:20:45 pm
M - Rest

T - Trail running 11.96km 551m.

W - NG PE session on Lattice rung (-13kg, 4 sets)

T - Climbing wall. Campus drills, 8c replica boulders, routes - 7a+, 7c (2 attempts), 7b and 7a+

F - Goetterwandl. 6b+ warm up. 8a+ 2 attempts. I was happy I got though the hard lower section twice fairly easily but then was too pumped to get into the knee bar and do the easier finish up the hanging groove.

S - Trail running 28.19km 1821m.

S - Shoulders stability + core, straight one arm to one armer breaks. Fingerboard (basic hangs). NG PE session on Lattice rung (-13kg, 4 sets). Trail run 9.4km 214m.

Solid week although the PE session on Tuesday destroyed my forearms for nearly the rest of the week. Was annoying that I couldn't finish the 8a+ but I need to focus on my autumn 8c goal even if it means some sessions are compromised now!

Will Hunt

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#11 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 07:20:11 pm
Tu - Earl Crag trad potter. Threw a top rope on Trite Rib at the end, playing the guidebook checking excuse card. Felt hard and committing. Would be interested to know more about this. Am I as soft as I think or is it an old sandbag? Felt like wouldn't be amiss at E4 6a.

Su - Harlech beach body board session. Never done this before. Major struggle getting far enough out to the best waves. Caught a few. Awesome. Knee a bit fucked afterwards.

Duma

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#12 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 09, 2021, 08:47:18 pm
Nice work Yetix and Rob, good to see people getting projects done.
M - TCA, bouldering,got a few more blues (high 6's).
T - hour in the pool.
W - beach with daughter, lots of time in the sea.
T - nothing, driving.
F - nothing, beach with daughter.
S - nothing, hols still.
S - drive home, was planning wall when I got back but knackered so just early night

70kg

tommytwotone

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#13 Re: Power Club 595 2-8 August 2021
August 10, 2021, 08:49:00 am
Goal - Font 7a outdoors I haven't done before


M: LSD session after work, some nice new problems on the territory that's my home turf (i.e. slab / vert / just off-vert). Came away with 4 or 5 V4s, a few V5s and and a V6 which took a fair few goes


Sat: AM - helped brother-in-law clearing his garage out, also weighed myself on some scales we came across - shocked to find I'm now 11.5 stone! Think at the start of 2020 I was 10.5 tops.


Last-minute pass so popped off to Big Depot. Bad choice, warm, busy and I was feeling heavy and not with it


Meh week. Bad weather, to-ing and fro-ing to Leeds as I'm in an office for work, too much booze and too little sleep.


 

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