[Will Hunt]

Gutted for Raboutou, feel like some of the setting didn't suit her being so small tbh.

I actually thought at one point that Seo was getting a rough ride through being much shorter, which prompted me to look at their profiles to compare height. I was surprised to find that most are within an inch or two of each other. Not sure if there's a big span difference.

[SA Chris]

She was out of her depth in the bouldering but I would have thought she'd have a got a little bit further in the lead.

She got to the 4th clip in qualifying so 3rd clip is about right for the final? She obviously didn't expect to get too far herself - she was the only one not to bother bringing out a pair of binoculars.

I was only half watching, seemed a bit earlier, but actually about right.

[Bradders]

Huh, that's quite surprising! They both look tiny compared to the others.

[tc]

Apologies if this has already been asked and answered but how hard are the men's and women's lead routes? I can't find any reference to the exact grades.

[Fultonius]

Apologies if this has already been asked and answered but how hard are the men's and women's lead routes? I can't find any reference to the exact grades.

Yeah that would be interesting. Janja normally says she wishes the routes were harder, but she certainly had to fight for this one. Great to see her pushed beyond her comfort zone, and still take it!

[Fultonius]

    on a very much non  way, just wow. What an inspiration! She's just SO good. 


Also: Anyone know what the hardest outdoor boulders and leads she's done?

[cheque]

Anyone know what the hardest outdoor boulders and leads she's done?

All the Olympic climbing was outdoors so maybe those? 

When I looked up who all the Olympic climbers were I saw that she climbed a few 9as in 2017 but doesn’t appear to have bothered going rock climbing since then. Seems at the top level of comp climbing pursuing goals on rock is wasted effort and vice versa.

[User deactivated.]

Brooke has flashed 8A+ and done a couple of 8B+'s between comps!

I'd love to see Janja burning off Woods and Webb on the next Mellow installment!

[cheque]

Yeah she was the only women’s finalist who I didn’t have to look up.

[Durbs]

Fantastic result - so psyched for Akiyo to end her competitive career with an Olympic medal.

Miho/Brooke equally deserving of a bronze - bouldering scoring can be brutal sometimes, with nothing given for progression past the zone.

Have to say though, found the bouldering a little dull - for non-climbing audience, proper snore-fest - 1 hour of people failing to climbing anything (except Janja). Shame, as the rest of  the setting was fantastic,  but then if you set for "everyone except Janja", not sure it helps anyone.

[duncan]

Speed climbing should be combined with BMX, surfing, skateboarding and breakdancing for a post-modern pentathlon.

[Nibile]

Janja gets the Imperial Death March as her entrance music 🤣

Is there any video of this majestic stroke of genius?

[Aussiegav]

I liked the double ended pamo brush stick. Big brush on 1 end, tooth brush on the other.

[Danny]

Have to say among all the non-medalist Insta posts, Ondra's is standout as veering very close to sour grapes. He's obviously an incredible climber, but on the day he was captain average, despite the speed gift. Disappointing.

[IanP]

Have to say among all the non-medalist Insta posts, Ondra's is standout as veering very close to sour grapes. He's obviously an incredible climber, but on the day he was captain average, despite the speed gift. Disappointing.

Agree with that, despite being poor in the bouldering if he'd won the lead he would have got gold - he got beaent by Schubert topping the route and should have just accepted he just wasn't good enough on the day.

[teestub]

Oh yeah but we have to bear in mind it’s Ondra’s hype team ‘gramming, not him 🤔😏

Janja shows how it worked, just win boulder and lead and then everyone can forget your speed score!

[SamT]

Speed climbing should be combined with BMX, surfing, skateboarding and breakdancing for a post-modern pentathlon.

Include Parkour and mountain biking for a Heptathlon?

[Bradders]

Realised I hadn't actually seen much of the women's bouldering so skimmed through it. How classy was Shauna. Basically thought her way up the first two problems, and had a little sit down halfway through problem 4 before dancing to Always Look on the Bright Side of Life! Great performance especially given it sounds like she was injured.

[edshakey]

She looked thrilled to be there, every moment. Her face when she walked out to the lead route was filled with a massive smile, even though she must have known she'd struggle to make finals, as well as surely feeling some sort of pain from her knee.

Huge amount of respect for her attitude throughout, no wonder she's got a role as an athlete representative - I'm sure many other climbers look up to her, and for good reason. She'll be missed on the comp scene, hopefully she can be just as successful - and happy! - on rock.

[Durbs]

Have to say among all the non-medalist Insta posts, Ondra's is standout as veering very close to sour grapes. He's obviously an incredible climber, but on the day he was captain average, despite the speed gift. Disappointing.

Yeah, this post is a shocker. Not written by Adam, but hopefully he has oversight and should suggest it gets taken down.

It's super-salty, and paints him as a bad loser.

[SA Chris]

Have to say though, found the bouldering a little dull - for non-climbing audience, proper snore-fest - 1 hour of people failing to climbing anything (except Janja). Shame, as the rest of  the setting was fantastic,  but then if you set for "everyone except Janja", not sure it helps anyone.

As I said earlier, i think a bit more "showy" problem setting would have made it a bit more interesting to watch for non-climbers.

Agree about Ondra statement a bit bitter. He was average in the bouldering, beaten in he lead (I think he was sure he had won it) and got a gifted in the speed. His whole message in the run up to the games was how hard he was focusing on winning and how important they were, but the statement seems to contradict this.

[Bradders]

Have to say among all the non-medalist Insta posts, Ondra's is standout as veering very close to sour grapes. He's obviously an incredible climber, but on the day he was captain average, despite the speed gift. Disappointing.

Yeah, this post is a shocker. Not written by Adam, but hopefully he has oversight and should suggest it gets taken down.

It's super-salty, and paints him as a bad loser.

Nah, love a bit of aggro. It's a competition, and all the best competitions involve rivalry and sour grapes. Especially when there is a very clear issue around the scoring and how the "winner and other medalists" were chosen. All the lovely posts on social media about how well everyone did etc. are frankly a bit boring if you ask me!

Not that I disagree that he was a bit average (for Ondra), and wouldn't really have deserved a medal if he'd got one (but then again just as Gines-Lopez, if we're being honest, didn't really deserve the gold).

[petejh]

You don't get as freakishly good as Ondra is if you're OK with not winning. For that reason I wonder if chasing Olympic glory will be his undoing..

[SA Chris]

I don't, not sure how bothered he will be with doing any comps anymore though. I'm guessing he had a bit of pressure from sponsors to succeed on a huge worldwide stage. Now he's failed to do that, I'm guessing they will now want him to just succeed at what he's good at: doing the hardest routes in the world.

I'm guessing he's setting a replica of Burden of Dreams on the woody right now.

[Paul B]

It was pointed out to me on another platform that the idea of a specialist e.g. cyclist entering the triathlon and finishing last (or low down) in two of the disciplines would put them a million miles away from the podium, yet in climbing that wasn't the case.

However, regardless of the scoring (which many others have comment on), I thought there were some really good moments in the climbing (Ondra's speed PB celebrations, the speed record, Jakob on the routes, Janja full stop etc.). Brooke's slip in the bouldering left Nat and I shouting at the TV. I've never paid for a TV subscription for sport and the week ahead of the games I had no intention of doing so, yet I found myself watching almost every moment.

I've generally quite enjoyed watching bouldering comps online but found it the least entertaining discipline by far (was it just me or was the camera work significantly worse than you'd expect at the CWIF?). You could easily point at the setting for this but I'd say that might be a little unfair. It must be damn hard to judge the difficulty of some of the more techy problems and how on earth do you set something compelling to watch in the female field when one athlete is on another level? I thought the routes looked really cool. On that note, I do wish North American setting would become a bit more of the norm for comps. I think it's much better to watch than jumping into toe hooks (but I am a grumpy sod).

Nah, love a bit of aggro. It's a competition, and all the best competitions involve rivalry and sour grapes. Especially when there is a very clear issue around the scoring and how the "winner and other medalists" were chosen. All the lovely posts on social media about how well everyone did etc. are frankly a bit boring if you ask me!

Not that I disagree that he was a bit average (for Ondra), and wouldn't really have deserved a medal if he'd got one (but then again just as Gines-Lopez, if we're being honest, didn't really deserve the gold).

Ondra's post comes across as a bit whiny to me. The scoring etc. was what it was, and he was aware of that when he signed up.