[mr chaz]

Having been researching them for weeks now  looked clearly like a full rupture of the distal biceps tendon to me. I can't imagine anyone being able to compete, let alone climb, with that.

[Oldmanmatt]

Having been researching them for weeks now  looked clearly like a full rupture of the distal biceps tendon to me. I can't imagine anyone being able to compete, let alone climb, with that.

This.
That clip looked pretty grim.

[GraemeA]

Will he have to prove he is fit to compete Graeme?

IFSC officials can ask an athlete to pass some basic tests in front of a doctor but I don't know whether this type of injury falls into that area. The tests are such things as hopping on each leg.

[Ged]

Anyone know the best chance of seeing some highlights? I'm guessing the coverage on the BBC highlights show is going to be fairly limited...

[petekitso]

Not highlights but the discovery+ coverage seems to have the whole thing available until September. A month was £7 I think.

I was hoping that Megos would get in if Mawem had to withdraw - double bah.

[User deactivated.]

Depending on your moral compass you can quite easily avoid paying by simply Googling '(insert desired channel) free live stream'.

[mrjonathanr]

Having been researching them for weeks now  looked clearly like a full rupture of the distal biceps tendon to me. I can't imagine anyone being able to compete, let alone climb, with that.

Agreed, surely that would be game over. Except the prime mover at he elbow is brachialis, not the biceps, so if the tendon has fully ruptured would it make no difference to the repair to continue climbing? Maybe very painful- or as it’s detached, not at all??

[Fiend]

Just started watching lead qualis on catch up on disc+.

If anyone wants me to make up a thoroughly ear-cleansing playlist after listening to that fucking commentator, just let me know. Personally I'm not dipping below 250bpm until it's erased all memory of his drivel.

[moose]

If anyone wants me to make up a thoroughly ear-cleansing playlist after listening to that fucking commentator, just let me know.

"... the wall is 25 degrees,  a treadmill on its max setting is only 12.5 degrees, imagine climbing something twice as steep as the steepest treadmill!"

[lukeyboy]

Looks like some decent length coverage is now on iplayer "Day 11: Red Button - sport climbing & handball"

[webbo]

Get the Eurosport app for the cycling and you get the Olympics for free.

[Paul B]

Looks like some decent length coverage is now on iplayer "Day 11: Red Button - sport climbing & handball"

I've managed to watch some speed and lead but no bouldering via iPlayer.

[cheque]

Highlights from that incredible commentary (mainly from the lead as that’s when I wasn’t on work calls and could turn it up fully)-

“Jakob Schubert’s sister’s a climber too- I dread to think what they get up to at weekends”

“The way they clip the carabiner, through the hole as it’s known, is different every time”

Somehow neither of them was aware of the term “pinch”.

“Departed the wall”

“Deep into the route”

The general vibe was like when you climb at a busy touristy place like Brimham and overhear dads giving step-by-step descriptions of the process to their families except it’s all completely wrong. As both guys are British I assumed it was just for us but I learnt through social media that the entire English-speaking world gets them too. 

Can’t wait for tomorrow when the classic patronisation of female athletes is chucked into the mix too. 

[Will Hunt]

Can’t wait for tomorrow when the classic patronisation of female athletes is chucked into the mix too. 

I've got £10 that says that someone's breasts are going to push them out from the wall at some point.

[hongkongstuey]

Having been researching them for weeks now  looked clearly like a full rupture of the distal biceps tendon to me. I can't imagine anyone being able to compete, let alone climb, with that.

Agreed, surely that would be game over. Except the prime mover at he elbow is brachialis, not the biceps, so if the tendon has fully ruptured would it make no difference to the repair to continue climbing? Maybe very painful- or as it’s detached, not at all??

I picked up a complete rupture of the longhead attachment a few years back (from wakeboarding during my non-climbing years - tip: let go of that handle if you take a big slam whilst moving really fast rather than trying to save the trick). As i wasn't climbing back then i opted to leave it be and forgo surgical repair.

All my research suggested potential for about 5-10% loss of strength but the biggest issue I had (only notable issue other than the mother of all bruises from elbow to shoulder) was shoulder instability afterwards as i'd lost one of the major stabilisers. Took about 6-months work to get the shoulder stable again.

Restarted climbing again a few years after the injury and lack of longhead doesn't seem to have had too big an impact - i'm just as pathetically weak now as i was beforehand 

[galpinos]

In the speed you go next to someone but you don't really compete against them so to speak. You get ranked on your time.

(Is my understanding anyway)

((Apparently my understanding is wrong and its a race off? Erm sure okay lol))

In qualifying it's just on speed, in the final it's actually a race. 1st vs 8th, 2nd vs 7th* etc. The first race of the speed round is pretty important as it determines whether you will end up in the top 4 or bottom 4. For Ondra, getting a bye (If he does?) would mean he gets a minimum 4th, compared to his probable 7/8th without a bye.

*In qualifying speed ranking

[User deactivated.]

The speed finals format seems bonkers to me. As much as i'd like to see Ondra win the overall, a gifted 4th place in speed would be the equivalent of an 11 second 100m sprinter (club level?) getting 4th by chance!

[Fiend]

In qualifying it's just on speed, in the final it's actually a race. 1st vs 8th, 2nd vs 7th* etc. The first race of the speed round is pretty important as it determines whether you will end up in the top 4 or bottom 4. For Ondra, getting a bye (If he does?) would mean he gets a minimum 4th, compared to his probable 7/8th without a bye.

*In qualifying speed ranking

it is so vomituously awful. Speed "climbing" is bad enough but the whole idea of it being a comparative race too rather than just time-based is so utterly contrary to anything and everything that defines climbing.

Having this (i.e. the combined, I don't mind the existence of speed on it's own, just as I don't mind volleyball or archery or other unrelated things) interfering with or possibly ruining the results of actual quality climbing makes me pretty disinterested in the actual results - although I'm still obviously very interested in great displays of climbing in boulder / lead.

[teestub]

Hopefully if it is down to 7, they would just re sort the match ups, so it’s the remaining fastest (Tomoa) that gets the first round by rather than the slowest!

[Ru]

I thought that lots of the climbers seemed quite nervy yesterday. Notably, Ondra and Tomoa didn't look to be moving well, especially in the lead.

[fatneck]

Olympic Climbing Commentator Bingo!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CSIB0yiDwyL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

[IanP]

I thought that lots of the climbers seemed quite nervy yesterday. Notably, Ondra and Tomoa didn't look to be moving well, especially in the lead.

Ondra said he was nervous and cautious in lead due to consequences of failure according to UKC report.  Hopefully they can all commit more freely in the final.

Feels like Bassa going out must improve Tomoa's (already good) chance of gold since he is likely to score even better in speed.

[Durbs]

Marathoned all three events yesterday - only now to learn you can mute Johnny "Over-confident bloke who knows nothing about the sport" Bryan?!
FML.

I remember he did a season, or at least part of a season, of the IFSC world-cups and was hated then too. Utter garbage. Aside from being factually wrong most of the time, inability to pronounce names ("Roobatov"?) and general inability to actually not say something (honestly, silence is fine) - in none of the other sports in the Olympics are the commentators saying such inane drivel.

Yes, they train a lot - they're professional athletes, of course they fucking train. No-one's commentating on the sprinting and saying "they train at least 4-6hours a day, every day of the week". This also makes them strong, and muscular. Again - the people commentating on the rings aren't saying "look at his shoulders!".

Yes, it's hard. Course it's hard, it's the fucking Olympics. No one's doing forward rolls and cartwheels in the Floor routines.

As someone else pointed out - BMX is new this year too, and the commentators aren't saying "This is a lot harder than riding your bike to Tesco's". You get informative, and informed, commentary, with occasional explainers to the new viewers.

Muppet.

Anyhoo - interesting results. Me and the Mrs actually found ourselves enjoying the speed, if only for when a specialist came out and floated up it. Gutted for Megos, but he didn't look on great form, Mawem and Tamoa are on fire.

[Ru]

Feels like Bassa going out must improve Tomoa's (already good) chance of gold since he is likely to score even better in speed.

Also, Ondra's used up his hand jam problem get-out-of-jail-free-card. Seems unlikely that there will be another crack in the final and more likely that there will be a crowd-pleaser paddle dyno or parkour thing that will favour Tomoa.

[Durbs]

Forget to add: Nice route-setting? No tops in lead, good split in bouldering - thought they'd overcooked M2 but it saw some action (although we didn't get to see it...)