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Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021 (Read 4105 times)

Duma

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Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 01, 2021, 08:08:34 pm
M - TCA, bouldering on blacks (7's). Was too hot but need to do some hard pulling to keep power topped up. Decent session despite the temps, managed 4 and progress on 3 others.
T - nothing, 12hr shift.
W - nothing, 12hr shift.
T - Cheddar, partner wanted roadside so just went to arch rock. Did All Hands To The Pump 7b and Playboys 7b+, both second go, then nipped round to stepped wall and did Bluepoint 7a+ second go as well. Guess I would hope to have OS at least one of these, but this sort of vert techy stuff is pretty hard to read so not too bothered.
F - nothing, rest.
S - Witches Point, couple of 6's then OS Liassic Lark 7a, great fun through steepness on huge holds. Stuck clips in and tried a few moves on Help Help Me Rhondda 7c on the way down. Really like this, yarding on good crimps through slightly leaning lower wall, bit of a shake on undercuts, then fun boulder through the steep on crimps and a toehook. Feeling pretty confident after my first attempt, but second go ended powered out at first move of boulder. Third go better, had found a decent kneebar, but still only got halfway through the boulder. Others were done by then and we needed to be back for the pub so bailed. Shame not to get it in a session but psyched to come back. Masada looks to be drying out too so will have a look soon to see if it's a suitable project.
S - TCA afternoon, not much energy but managed a bunch of the new blues (high 6's?) mostly limiting myself to flash attempts.

70.5kg

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#1 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 01, 2021, 11:39:35 pm
M: Density pickups up to 40lb.

T: In NY for work, Cliffs at LIC. TA MH on BM1k bottom 18mm edge up to +40lb. Bouldered but setting was dire. Setters seemed to want to make pretty patterns on the wall rather than good problems. Even hard problems had upwards of 15 or 20 holds for one (normal-sized) boulder, bonkers. Weighted muscle-ups on rings up to +35lb. Failed on the dip of +40lb (old PR). Weighted pull-ups +70lb X3 *3sets. Weighted dips +40lb X5 *3sets

S: DBC. TA MH 20mm up to +50lb. Bouldering up to M+.

S: DBC. Weighted Pull-up testing up to 90lb 2RM. Did one set of the 5 rep 85% which felt about right. Bench press 165lb X5 *5sets. Shoulder press, bicep curl, weighted dips *3sets

duncan

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#2 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 09:20:01 am
Rest week.

M - Mickledore Grooves (VS) and a long drive home; see last week.
T - 7km walk
W - Shoulder stuff: IsYsTs, supported handstands, planks.
T - 14km walk
F - Shoulder stuff
S - Shoulder stuff
S - Shoulder stuff. Finger testing: a new PB of 119% bw, previous was 116%. This is gratifying though much of it might be due to 6 days of proper rest. Lattice think I am much weaker than expected for an occasional 7b climber, not a surprise, so I guess I should aim to get a bit stronger if I want to climb a 7b+.

School holidays and family stuff will constrain climbing for a bit but I should manage the odd day trip. Back on the strength and long endurance this week.

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#3 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 09:39:26 am
S - Witches Point

I was the random who turned up and asked to look at your guidebook  :wave: . Sounds like you guys had a good day. I may have mentioned that I've recently moved to Cardiff and don't know a great deal of climbers in the area. If you're ever short of a partner for climbing in the area, please get in touch. I'd be really keen.

Liamhutch89

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#4 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 09:48:46 am
M - rest

T - board, max hangs

W - rings

T - 1 hour morning session at Lound hill before work before the rain. Figured out the moves on Colour of the Sky. Keen to do this one.

F - max hangs

S - Lound Hill. Top half of the crag was wet, which I found out pinging off from 5m up colour of the sky and went tumbling down the hill. Worked out the bottom roof sections to all the other problems.

S - rest

RobK

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#5 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 10:03:02 am
M - Rest.

T - Tried to go to the Gorge but got a report it had condensed. Went to the Boardroom instead for a play on the boulders. Bumped into a couple of mates and had a good first hour or so but then re-aggravated an old left bicep injury that cut the session short. Apparently the Gorge was actually fairly dry, karma!

W - Gorge after work. Bicep not entirely better but with the way conditions are at this place and knowing I was having the rest of the week off I took the risk. Decent connies. One go to put the draws in Cerberus and I managed to find a new resting position just before it breaks out of GC. Then a massive enforced rest before my next RP due to two other climbers being a bit awkward with their tying in times. A decent effort but totally misjudged the big jump move and came off, frustrating as I was feeling relatively fresh. A shortish rest before another RP matching my previous high point of falling off going for the shothole in the roof. Critically though I had a bit of a play around and think I found some new beta to make that move more secure. Psyched for a rematch.

T - S - Rest, some time off with my girlfriend before she starts a new job. Somewhere in there was a very easy gym visit, a 30 minute run and a couple of long walks. Probably the longest climbing/training break I’ve had in a while, hoping it has done me some good.

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#6 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 10:45:41 am
Stuck in a rut at the moment. Nothing all week. Struggling for motivation in work and life. Looking forward to holiday.

Su - Chapel Head. Planning to meet Penny in the early afternoon. Arrived at the crag at about 11 and tagged onto a couple of friends who were there. Warmed up on Moonchild which was excellent, and some pedestrian 6b+ on the far left. Then dogged up Wargames to put the clips in. Have actually been on this on top-rope some years ago but didn't remember anything but getting horribly flash pumped and really struggling with the top wall. Turns out the top wall is fairly steady, albeit with a couple of cheeky thin moves and some fairly spaced bolting. Penny rocked up at 3pm. Redpointed Wargames. Didn't do the steep traverse too well so arrived on the top wall a little over-tired. The sun came out, I sweated a lot, I questioned what I was doing there. I plodded on, stoically ignoring the runouts. Backclipped at one point and had to sort that out. Eventually got to the very top and just about clipped the belay. Phew.
Belayed Penny on War Hero which I then flashed, but fucking hell it was hard. There were two moves which I just got through by the skin of my teeth. Surely this is 7a+, surely!
Finished at about 9 o'clock.

Wellsy

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#7 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 10:59:49 am
Initial year's goals: 7A on grit and lime (done both)

New goals: Get multiple 7As on grit under my belt this season. Ideally Mermaid, The Nose and Tracksides.

Monday: Went to the Works and did some stuff. Started my session off with a bit of campusing. Starting easy so I can get used to it physically and neuralogically, basically 1-3-5 on the 20mm edge, 10 reps with right hand going up first, 10 reps with left hand going first. Basically then mooched around doing all the yellows. The game of "try to make sure you flash" is a good one though, it makes me actually think and climb intelligently.

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: Bit harder session indoors. Campused, same as before. Warmed up on easier stuff. Hopped on some harder stuff to drive myself a bit. Then cooled down. Was a good session.

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Went to Raven Tor for the first time. Polished to fuck! Did a few good problems (including a 6A+ that felt a little high, which I was pretty happy with as I am not great with heights). Got stuck on a 6C that I felt like I could 100% do if my foot didn't keep coming off, which seems to be life there. Enjoyed it though. Warmed down at the Works after and then was absolutely knackered; home, bed. Annoying I ripped my finger open at the Tor at some point so spent a bit of time cleaning that up.

Saturday: Rested

Sunday: We were going to go out but I felt realistically still pretty knackered from friday as did my mate from his session on Saturday, so we just went indoors and had a 50-60% effort day. Which can actually be pretty good as you end up trying to do everything as cleverly as you can to stop yourself from having to try hard. Was pretty tired afterwards. Finger split was alright due to plenty of tape.

General feeling: physically quite tired? And neurologically a bit spent. I think I need plenty of sleep, plenty of healthy but filling food, and a week of taking it easy, so that next week I am ready to push myself harder. Will keep up the campusing though as I actually find it much less boring than fingerboarding.

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#8 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 11:17:18 am
M - Trail running 9.41km 351m

T - Trail running 13.83km 430m. NG PE session on Lattice rung - 3 sets.

W - Indoor climbing for the first time in 9 months. I was dreading this but it wasn't too bad at all. Somehow I felt pretty bouncy on the boulders (although I still failed on anything close to approaching a coordination style boulder) and onsighted some routes 7a+ to 7b+. My skin became too sore before my arms or fingers gave in.

T - Trail running 16.33km 1187m. Flow trails along the Kalkoegel from Axamer Lizum. Some of the best trails I have run. A must for anyone who is ever in the area and into trail running.

F - Mountain biking 27.88km 945m.

S - Climbing at Huben. Finished an 8a second go. Steep, big holds, double knee bar in a roof, just pure fun! Tried the neighbouring 8b which my much stronger climbing partner was getting shut down on in the top roof. I didn't have high hopes but I did the move through the roof quite quickly which involved doing the splits, reaching the lip of the roof/arete and holding the violent swing after releasing the left leg from the back of the roof by compressing the lip and a terrible undercut in the roof. It turns out it was a span issue for my partner and surprisingly I had over a hands length span more than him. A cool move and one to come back for.   

S - Training indoors. Started with some campus progressions that went better than I expected considering I haven't campussed for over a year. Then I made up two boulders specific to the cruxes on the 8c I am trying and finished with some free weights which I am embarrassingly weak at (junior girl level according to my international climbing coach partner). I had to be rescued from a below body weight bench press! Anyway, it felt good to do weights as it feels good for all the stabilizing muscles and the good news is that I have a lot of room for improvement so can hopefully milk that! 

A solid week and nice to finally get a route outside done after a couple of months in the climbing wilderness!



 

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#9 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 11:19:23 am
Got stuck on a 6C that I felt like I could 100% do if my foot didn't keep coming off, which seems to be life there.

There’s one of those weaknesses that you’re hoping to spot.

Will keep up the campusing though

 :slap:

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#10 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 11:23:35 am
^ this.

Core, good foot placement discipline, applying pressure through feet (I know nothing of the actual moves, but this is often the case with slippery or polished rock).

Wellsy

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#11 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 11:44:52 am
Got stuck on a 6C that I felt like I could 100% do if my foot didn't keep coming off, which seems to be life there.

There’s one of those weaknesses that you’re hoping to spot.

Will keep up the campusing though

 :slap:

Hahaha well those are for two things really. The campusing is basically because I think I am notably bad at generating power coming from my forearms with bad feet; I struggle with lower grade stuff compared to when I can generate power in other ways and when I can get something out of my feet. It's power and explosiveness training, which I think is a good thing anyway.

Usually I am pretty good at keeping my feet on! I train both, typically. Board problems with crap slopey polished feet where it's just all about doing the move without it popping :)

In the case of this problem I suspect that the trick is to find the exact right way to stay on the foothold.

Bradders

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#12 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 12:47:01 pm
Just my two cents Wellsy and feel free to take this with a massive pinch of salt, but you really don't need to be campussing at your current level, in order to improve.

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#13 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 12:55:01 pm
Goal - new (to me) Font 7a outdoors, without having to do any campus training

Tues: LSD after work, managed a 3(!) hour session on and off. Walked away with a few V5s, which this set around seem notably harder (probably fairly so), so happy with that ROI

Sat: Walked the Spen Valley Greenway with the kids (4 and 7) - turns out it was 8.5 miles, which I'm pretty impressed they managed. My legs were feeling it a bit in the final stretch!

Sun: Spur of the moment Freek Lime session with the kids - managed a few V5ish things inbetween spotting duties. Son did well in the kid's area and daughter (7) merrily ticked off about 5 or 6 of the V1-V2s. She's snapping at my heels already.

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#14 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 01:17:54 pm
Power Club
Mon - regular weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - snatch singles up to 54 kg, PB. Clean x5 60 kg + DL x5 90 kg x5. Good rests. Weights. Beautiful.
Thu - weights.
Fri - light boxing bag, loaded carries.
Sat - weights.
Sun - boxing bag 6 rounds, loaded stairs, jog+stairs combo. Strangely on fire after a big party the night before.

Liamhutch89

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#15 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 01:36:21 pm
Wellsy,

I agree with Bradders. You recently did 7A+ in a session right? and have only been climbing for a couple of years? That's way ahead of the norm, so whatever you've been doing is working well. If it ain't broke don't fix it! 7A+ in a session means you could probably climb a couple of grades higher over multiple sessions too!

I note you also mentioned 'I am not great with heights', so doing more high stuff will probably be beneficial - even on not so high stuff where the moves are a bit insecure or it has a dodgy landing so you'd currently climb a bit stiff. Heart of Darkness on the Hueco boulder could be a good shout - not too far from Anston, high (to the top!), bottom end 7A+ for the stand, and quite powerful on big holds (this is what campussing is for right?). White rabbit just to the left is also a high and excellent 6C from a stand or 7B from a sit (guide says 7A+ but its not).

« Last Edit: August 02, 2021, 01:54:33 pm by Liamhutch89 »

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#16 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 02:31:47 pm
M: quick session at woodwell, did turbulence 3rd go. Then went to check out shucks lair, holds felt like they'd fuck my skin in this heat so sacked it.

T: rest
W: am 3xfront 2 half crim max hangs and 3x mid 2 half crimp max hangs as part of some rehab work. Briefly tested 1 arm hangs on bm2k bottom edge, managed 5s on rh at bodyweight and 2s on the left hand, not bad for basically just climbing on rock and doing rehab work for aeons. Pm griffs on lovine, managed to get to the last move twice and the 2nd to last move maybe 3 or 4 more times
T: rest
F: am 3xfront 2 half crim max hangs and 3x mid 2 half crimp max hangs as part of some rehab work.
S: griffs getting to the 2nd to last or last move on every attempt of lovine now, maybe 10 attempts where I managed this in this session so all good training hut no send. Did a few laps of ovine for training too, think it's much easier physically to use the heel for the 2nd to last move but there's more chance the foot will ping, so will likely try this going forwards. For the last move I've always gone left hand first but find my skin is super greesey for this move which seems to feel easier actually going rh to the top now... But fuck knows maybe just need better skin as my index is pretty trash atm
S: felt fresh still so went to check out red devil at nearcliffe, moves are nice enough but it was pretty spoogy to be honest, managed to get all the moves and very much overlapping halves only falling off due to the spooge of the top holds I think. Didn't help me tactically that I was offered weed and coke on a couple of occasions during this session and had quite a few large dogs running at me... (also definitely didn't help my anxiety issues I've been having lately!) went and checked out midnight caller after, looked very my style, may try that this week if I can find the time.

Physically I feel pretty strong atm, and when falling off lovine I don't even feel boxed really, just my skin sends me off really which is annoying, just need to find some other things I'm psyched to try that can keep me in shape until I can get on some other rock types

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#17 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 04:11:10 pm
Dan your recent posts remind me why UK summer bouldering is so hard. Credit for sticking with it. I presume you didn't partake in any of the coke?  :lol:

M - physio appointment to check on tweaky wrists. Turns out they are hyper-mobile. Strengthening exercises on the way! Chee Dale Cornice late afternoon. Lovely day. Warmed up flashing War Memorial. Had got psyched for This is the Sea. First go up wasn't really warmed up enough but did each of the moves first go and felt good on it. First RP messed up my foot sequence just before the crux and stopped by the third bolt. Came down for a 10 min rest and then boshed it out. First 7c+. Couldn't have suited me more really, given its difficulty is all in a punchy boulder problem straight off the ground. I reckon a couple of months ago I'd have pumped out before the finish though! Warmed down with a repeat lap on Up the River Without a Paddle.

Tu - rest

W - deadlift pick ups, 6x false grip, 6x half crimp front 2, 6x half crimp middle 2. Plus conditioning; Arnold press, dumbbell isometric locks and rotator cuff work.

Th - booked to go to Chee Dale with Fiend but had to bail last minute as wife unwell. Did a board session late on instead, mainly trying 3 hard problems I've done a handful of times before but can't usually repeat without some work. Didn't do any of them but managed all the moves and some good links. Finished with 6x easy - easier mediums with a 3.3kg weight belt.

F - rest

Sa - Kilnsey. Warm up lap on Alternative Extra Option. On to Subculture. Clips were already in so despite really not being warmed up, having had a longer than ideal wait, I went for it on first go and just missed the hold on move 15/17 of the hard bit (to a good edge). Next go my foot popped on the same move having got the hold (tactical error switching to a different pair of shoes which turned out to be worse). Next go similar, just missed it. Next go the same. Last go fell off in the traverse around move 12. Linked through from the last couple of moves of the hard bit to near the top then called it a day. Disappointed not to match my high point but great to be so consistent; last two sessions I had one good go and was then spent!

Su - unwell with another stomach bug, thankfully much more minor than last one. Still built a fence with my neighbour but couldn't do planned training or run.

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#18 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 04:18:21 pm
no run, just runs!

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#20 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 04:43:10 pm

Belayed Penny on War Hero which I then flashed, but fucking hell it was hard. There were two moves which I just got through by the skin of my teeth. Surely this is 7a+, surely!


Won't get any arguments from me there, definately 7a+ for me.  Reckon it was missed when they sorted the old grades out at Chapel Head (Wargames 7a+, Super Duper Dupont 7b+!!)

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#21 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 05:16:38 pm
Wellsy,

I agree with Bradders. You recently did 7A+ in a session right? and have only been climbing for a couple of years? That's way ahead of the norm, so whatever you've been doing is working well. If it ain't broke don't fix it! 7A+ in a session means you could probably climb a couple of grades higher over multiple sessions too!

I note you also mentioned 'I am not great with heights', so doing more high stuff will probably be beneficial - even on not so high stuff where the moves are a bit insecure or it has a dodgy landing so you'd currently climb a bit stiff. Heart of Darkness on the Hueco boulder could be a good shout - not too far from Anston, high (to the top!), bottom end 7A+ for the stand, and quite powerful on big holds (this is what campussing is for right?). White rabbit just to the left is also a high and excellent 6C from a stand or 7B from a sit (guide says 7A+ but its not).

That sounds like a good little crag, I'll check it out!

I'll probably do the campusing for a bit. See how it goes. But good advice, I'll think on it guys. The way I saw it was that generally just trying to be strong as possible has done me well so far, and all that. Campusing gets one strong. I like being strong, cos it's a novelty for me personally. But worth thinking about.

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#22 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 06:57:39 pm
Wellsy,

I agree with Bradders. You recently did 7A+ in a session right? and have only been climbing for a couple of years? That's way ahead of the norm, so whatever you've been doing is working well. If it ain't broke don't fix it! 7A+ in a session means you could probably climb a couple of grades higher over multiple sessions too!

I note you also mentioned 'I am not great with heights', so doing more high stuff will probably be beneficial - even on not so high stuff where the moves are a bit insecure or it has a dodgy landing so you'd currently climb a bit stiff. Heart of Darkness on the Hueco boulder could be a good shout - not too far from Anston, high (to the top!), bottom end 7A+ for the stand, and quite powerful on big holds (this is what campussing is for right?). White rabbit just to the left is also a high and excellent 6C from a stand or 7B from a sit (guide says 7A+ but its not).

That sounds like a good little crag, I'll check it out!

I'll probably do the campusing for a bit. See how it goes. But good advice, I'll think on it guys. The way I saw it was that generally just trying to be strong as possible has done me well so far, and all that. Campusing gets one strong. I like being strong, cos it's a novelty for me personally. But worth thinking about.

I don't often read power club, but just dipped in this week. Duuuude, you're getting good, similar advice from lots of guys who've learned the hard way that jumping into intense, non-movement-specific training, when your tendons and other connective tissue haven't had the necessary years of training cycles to cope, is a recipe for disaster. It's blatantly clear your technique is lacking if you can't stick footholds. No amount of campussing is going to get weight on your feet. You generate movement from the lower body, rarely (are rarely solely) from the forearms.

Keep sticking your fingers in your ears all you want, but it'll be hard not to say "we told you so" when you're on the injuries an rehab thread in 6-8 months.  Who knows, you may get lucky and skip the near guaranteed injury phase. God luck.

A suggestion - why not take a few basic phone videos of you trying stuff, and post up here for critique? Everyone loves to give advice, so I'm sure you'll pick up a few golden nuggets. I doubt campussing will be in the list of advice.


Sorry if that sounds at all harsh.

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#23 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 08:31:53 pm
You've actually made me cry

Nah I do get what you are saying. I wouldn't post if I didn't think people with more experience had good and useful advice to give. I can definitely appreciate why campusing is maybe not the best use of my time, I guess I just feel like I only just started it... I'd probably be better off just doing steep board climbing though. Or just climbing loads generally. Probably that. I did find that taking the time to actually train single moves on the board with the worst feet, and keeping the foot on, really paid dividends for me.

I don't have a lot of videos of me climbing actually. There's one of me doing a repeat of Apprentice Prow (which I posted recently anyway) but it's not too good. If people have advice on improvements in technique on it, then I'd be only too happy to hear it; https://www.instagram.com/p/CRhmjP0Ap4V/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

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#24 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 08:56:39 pm
Well apart from the foot dab as you start it’s not too bad. Given your feet come off a couple of times, you would be better as you say on a steep board with poor feet.

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#25 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 09:52:15 pm
 :sorry:

Thanks for the video, useful. I would hazard that posterior chain core strength, and loads... loads... and loads of time on rock when you can will be your quickest route to high grades. Can't go wrong with steep board.

Now, on the campussing. People more well versed on it than me might be better placed to give advice, but if you want to do some - keep it to once a week MAX for now.

I reckon you're on to a solid start for someone with your amount of mileage, and with your psyche you'll have no shortage of drive to train.

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#26 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 11:18:23 pm
11.3-5 Average 158.6 down 0.6lbs

M.

T. AM. Tor for 7.40 to meet Karl. Cloudy but sweaty. Again. Cross N’Angry. Three tie ins mainly concentrating on Anger Management headwall this time (whole route feels like four routes stacked on top of each other). Felt tired and clunky first go up but better thereafter. Hard work pulling on the crimps in these conditions and nearly wore through my tips. Did ok though and made some refinements and will aim to link this whole section next visit. Hopefully it will feel like a path if good conditions bless us with their presence ever again.

W.

T.

F. AM Tor for 7.40am to meet Nick. Raining. 3 tie ins on Anger Management. First go jugging to the hole. Better conditions and felt stronger on the moves. Tried to link the headwall but unsuccessful. Probably overcooked myself. Second go from ground dogged up to hole but much more tired. Last go had a flail around on Push Up. Overall a bit tired and jaded.

S.

S.

Decided to have some downtime - not had more than 3 days off all year

tommytwotone

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#27 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 03, 2021, 09:42:07 am
:sorry:

Thanks for the video, useful. I would hazard that posterior chain core strength, and loads... loads... and loads of time on rock when you can will be your quickest route to high grades. Can't go wrong with steep board.

Now, on the campussing. People more well versed on it than me might be better placed to give advice, but if you want to do some - keep it to once a week MAX for now.

I reckon you're on to a solid start for someone with your amount of mileage, and with your psyche you'll have no shortage of drive to train.

Good advice this Wellsy - I've watched the video a couple of times and the things that jump out for me are

a) you are "leaving your feet behind" a bit - for me this is a footwork / technique thing, you can address that weakness with more time actually climbing. I would trade some of your campussing time for this.

A good mate of mine once said "crimp the f*** out of it and push really hard with your feet" - looks like you have 50% of this sorted, time to focus on the other half.

b) ditto core / posterior chain - you'll probably get this for free by doing a), but it'll help maintain the tension you need to keep your feet on.

Sure there's loads of Insta-friendly core exercises you could do to get shredded and build an iron core, but you're probably best to focus on climbing steep stuff, but as controlled / slowly as possible.

Note all of the above is very much "do as I say not as I do", and from a "7a on a good day" 43 year old Dad of two with a good (ahem) "Covid stone" of weight to cart around at the moment!
« Last Edit: August 03, 2021, 10:06:36 am by tommytwotone »

Duncan Disorderly

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#28 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 04, 2021, 09:51:45 am
Late entry, was in t'Lakes...

M: Routes @ Harpur Hill, found shade! Did some pretty good stuff up to F6b+ and GF flashed a F6a on TR and led a F5... The force is getting stronger in this one!
T: Routes @ AW - Warmed up then repeated the F7A+ I did the other week, felt harder than before but rinsed it with plenty in the tank...
W: Rest - Shoulder stuff.
T: Routes @ AW - Good long warmup then played on the moves on an F7a and did it first go - Nice!
F: Rest
S: Routes @ AW - Vertical walls & small holds onsighting mission up to F6c+, felt steady and was surprised as had been planning to go to the Lakes but held off as we were both shattered and couldint be arsed with the drive...
S: Drove to the Lakes - stopped at Bramcrag Quarry for some sport up to F6b... Really enjoyable little tick-fest, did loads in a short space of time including one of the best F6a+'s I think I've ever done - GF TR'd it clean too, ace!

Good week - been upping the difficulty slowly but trying to onsight (or first try at the very least) as much as possible as Cloggy is looming (10 days and counting) so feel that rock reading skills, time on small holds and just staving off the pump will probably be more beneficial than owt else (apart from also placing some bloody gear - that'll be part of next week's entry  :smartass:)...

 

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