Quote from: Liamhutch89 on August 18, 2021, 08:18:02 amQuote from: Wellsy on August 17, 2021, 08:33:31 pmBasically what I need to learn is doing the kind of clever flicks and deadpointing that people who are less strong do in order to easily do things that I use strength to doPeople who are less strong. Nail on head. The point of moving dynamically is to use less strength/energy and it is mainly technique. Yoss, your post screams technique too (getting the body moving as a unit). Climbing on the new comp style boulders and some routine mobility training might help? Combined with a conscious effort to move well during your regular climbing. I've also noticed climbers who use the full crimp a lot tend to move statically. This was me, and despite having the strength to do all sorts of calisthenic feats of strength, my climbing was stiff and static. I think this grip tends to lock the wrist and limits movement.You're definitely right. I think it's a technique I lack anyway, but at the moment my dynamic movement feels heavily restricted as a result of feeling too heavy. Hence initially trying to cheat that but then becoming resigned to dealing with it properly. Re movement - I always avoid party trick dynes for example, so perhaps I should embrace these?!I've thought about nthgat sort of movement a lot since watching daughter (10) who was very static and her coaches have paired her up with a little technical wizard who's a bit older but shorter. He ability to fire himself from his feet is quite amazing, and I started to (try to) change how I climb as soon as I first saw it.
Quote from: Wellsy on August 17, 2021, 08:33:31 pmBasically what I need to learn is doing the kind of clever flicks and deadpointing that people who are less strong do in order to easily do things that I use strength to doPeople who are less strong. Nail on head. The point of moving dynamically is to use less strength/energy and it is mainly technique. Yoss, your post screams technique too (getting the body moving as a unit). Climbing on the new comp style boulders and some routine mobility training might help? Combined with a conscious effort to move well during your regular climbing. I've also noticed climbers who use the full crimp a lot tend to move statically. This was me, and despite having the strength to do all sorts of calisthenic feats of strength, my climbing was stiff and static. I think this grip tends to lock the wrist and limits movement.
Basically what I need to learn is doing the kind of clever flicks and deadpointing that people who are less strong do in order to easily do things that I use strength to do
I'm gonna wade in as the voice of boring reason here.... Again....You're no spring chicken, and not a waif. Expecting any kind of quick gains is a recipe for disaster. You need to be focusing on slow wait loss, plenty of general conditioning to prevent the onset of injuries and, well, probably fewer, shorter and heavier sessions. But I'm not expert on the actual best gains for those not endowed with youthful tendons!Ben, JWI, anyone else got thoughts on this?