[Fultonius]

Basically what I need to learn is doing the kind of clever flicks and deadpointing that people who are less strong do in order to easily do things that I use strength to do

People who are less strong. Nail on head. The point of moving dynamically is to use less strength/energy and it is mainly technique. Yoss, your post screams technique too (getting the body moving as a unit). Climbing on the new comp style boulders and some routine mobility training might help? Combined with a conscious effort to move well during your regular climbing.

I've also noticed climbers who use the full crimp a lot tend to move statically. This was me, and despite having the strength to do all sorts of calisthenic feats of strength, my climbing was stiff and static. I think this grip tends to lock the wrist and limits movement.

You're definitely right. I think it's a technique I lack anyway, but at the moment my dynamic movement feels heavily restricted as a result of feeling too heavy. Hence initially trying to cheat that but then becoming resigned to dealing with it properly. Re movement - I always avoid party trick dynes for example, so perhaps I should embrace these?!

I've thought about nthgat sort of movement a lot since watching daughter (10) who was very static and her coaches have paired her up with a little technical wizard who's a bit older but shorter. He ability to fire himself from his feet is quite amazing, and I started to (try to) change how I climb as soon as I first saw it.

I'm gonna wade in as the voice of boring reason here.... Again....

You're no spring chicken, and not a waif. Expecting any kind of quick gains is a recipe for disaster. You need to be focusing on slow wait loss, plenty of general conditioning to prevent the onset of injuries and, well, probably fewer, shorter and heavier sessions. But I'm not expert on the actual best gains for those not endowed with youthful tendons!

Ben, JWI, anyone else got thoughts on this?

[webbo]

Well I suppose I’m possibly in the position of the least youthful tendons of anyone on here. I had a board in my garage in our old house when we moved Jan 2020 It was then a case of dead hanging and weights as we had that much stuff in the garage of the new house I couldn’t build a board. This as well as lockdown meant I didn’t climb that much but when I did I was holding my own.
So forward to Jan 2021 I built a 40 degree board with no kicker,my previous one being 45 degrees with a 6 inch kicker. At first it was a bit of a battle to get going but currently I have repeating problems I did early in the year often doing 4 or 5 sessions worth of old problems in one session. Last week I put on a lot of screw on foot holds whilst these are reasonably positive they are about 3mm. The bolt on foot holds are those moon ones they use on a moon board kicker.
Now I’m working through the problems with these foot holds.
I actually feel I stronger than have been for a few years and I currently have quite a well defined vein on my biceps which hasn’t been seen for a few years.
I’m trying to do weights as well but as usually do this after the board I will often climb a bit more to avoid doing them. However I’ve done two 5 x5 sessions this week.
I’m also riding my bike which rather gets in the way, your ability to hold body tension which isn’t that great when you did 113 miles the day before.
Did I mention I don’t have a job other than cleaning the house and cooking the wife’s tea..
Yes some days my fingers, hands, knee, hip and shoulder ache like fuck. But in five years I might be in a care home.

[webbo]

Actually the care home might sooner than I thought as forgot to say what I tend to do te training I go on the board day on day off with cycling on the other days. I sometimes do two days on if the weather means I can’t go for a ride.
So the last week or so has been last Friday I actually went outside to Blackstone edge which was warm and windy, I may have done a 6c+ but might not. Saturday board session. Sunday shopping and lunch in Harrogate. Monday board. Tuesday board and weights. Wednesday bike 79 miles. Thursday board and weights. Friday bike 28 miles intervals 1 min on 1 off x 12.
I usually have a rest day a week however I have been known to go several weeks with out a day off.

[Fultonius]

 I could most definitely have worded the above a bit better, sounds quite negative on rereading!

Still, I stand by the meaning if not the delivery...

[Yossarian]

I'm gonna wade in as the voice of boring reason here.... Again....

You're no spring chicken, and not a waif. Expecting any kind of quick gains is a recipe for disaster. You need to be focusing on slow wait loss, plenty of general conditioning to prevent the onset of injuries and, well, probably fewer, shorter and heavier sessions. But I'm not expert on the actual best gains for those not endowed with youthful tendons!

Ben, JWI, anyone else got thoughts on this?

I don't disagree with any of that. The original post exhibited a bit of meaningless pleading for a way to avoid the longer and harder path, ie get a bit lighter.

Actually, indirectly, I think I've figured out a way forward for all that stuff, but more on that later.

However, I am still interested in the path to more oomph, and the things that seem to be working currently are longer moves on fairly bad feet on the board. Also more dynamic moves and trying very hard to keep my feet on. I'm having a lot of fun on the board because, despite being heavy, my fingers are so much stronger that they've been in the past that I'm generally using smaller wooden holds and so my skin is getting much less fucked. Coupled with generally shorter sessions - maybe 45mins of trying hard - I can do more other training at home in between wall visits after which, when I'm rested, feels like it has helped when I'm back at the wall.

[jwi]

I don't have a lot to add, but there is no realistic timeframe for me to improve the strength and integrity of my shoulders to the point where it would be safe for me to do a four points off sideways dyno. I just avoid all such problems in the gym and on rock. A good thing with setting in franchise gyms compared to boards is that they generally have big, safe, ergonomic, and finger friendly holds.