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Peregrine flying at High Tor (Read 1239 times)

mrjonathanr

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Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 25, 2021, 11:39:41 pm
Saw a young peregrine flying overhead at the foot of Darius today. Did Debauchery and Darius earlier and did not see any evidence of nesting, nor from the ab down Castellan.

Maybe it wasn’t nesting on the crag itself?

Johnny Brown

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#1 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 26, 2021, 08:08:54 am
Probably not. They will have tyoically fledged a few weeks back now so will be pretty mobile. I'm not aware of any reports of a nest on the main crag, and with all the quarries nearby they've got a lot of choice.

mrjonathanr

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#2 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 26, 2021, 02:21:31 pm
Thanks JB.

As an aside, we did Debauchery which I really didn’t think was that good. 1st pitch was decent but 2nd lacked a really clear line with loose rock and average moves. Darius was good though.

Paul B

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#3 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 26, 2021, 02:28:51 pm
I'm surprised you say that. I really like(d) it; the belay is a nice place to be and the second pitch follows a pretty obvious rising R to L line (which used to be adorned by many ageing pegs)? From memory there's a slightly awkward step across a corner/groove.

mrjonathanr

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#4 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 26, 2021, 04:24:28 pm
Perhaps some pegs have gone then. I found myself in the top groove of Fantasia, realised I was off route, came back down, pulled off a flake and tw***ed my ankle on a ledge before enjoying a rather mediocre traversing experience to the abseil tree. Maybe I went too high  :shrug:

Paul B

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#5 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 26, 2021, 04:35:26 pm
YikeS! Sounds like you might've been too high then.

There used to be the odd comment on Rockfax/UKC regarding P2 being a clip up which is a bit  :sick: if you'd seen the pegs.

Will Hunt

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#6 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 26, 2021, 05:05:53 pm
I don't think I went off route on Debauchery but I definitely had to think about where the line went quite carefully. I might have even gone slightly too high/low for a few moves and then reversed. Either way, it didn't live up to the hype "the best E1 in England" etc etc at all. A bit of a non-line without any particularly impressive climbing. Worth a star for historical interest?

mrjonathanr

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#7 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 26, 2021, 09:13:08 pm
Agreed!

cheque

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#8 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 26, 2021, 10:03:37 pm
Worth a star for historical interest?

You can see Black Rocks from the belay ledge so at least another for that.  ;)


Johnny Brown

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#9 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 27, 2021, 12:20:43 pm
I've done Debauchery three times I think, though not for a while, and thought it was fantastic every time.

I can see that it would be easy to get off line if you have several grades in hand. If you're at your limit it is much less likely. Bear in mind it is one of only two mid-grade routes up the face and Original route is something of a polished thrutch. Everything else requires a big step up in ability and stamina.

duncan

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#10 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 27, 2021, 12:41:11 pm
Debauchery is excellent for Peak Limestone and quite good on a national level (just got back from Scafell which puts comments like 'best E1 in England' into sharp focus). Pitch two connects a series of weaknesses rather than follows a line and when you solve the route finding challenges it satisfyingly takes you through impressive territory at a reasonable standard.

danm

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#11 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 27, 2021, 12:54:17 pm
It also spawned this historical gem:

mrjonathanr

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#12 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 27, 2021, 01:50:57 pm
Fascinating, thanks for that, youth! It appears I did not do Debauchery pitch 2. Way too high.

cheque

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#13 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 27, 2021, 06:34:41 pm
Who reckons Debauchery’s the best E1 in England anyway?

remus

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#14 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 27, 2021, 10:21:00 pm
It also spawned this historical gem:

Nice find! Im probably displaying a total lack of knowledge here, but who are the climbers in the film?

kc

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#15 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 28, 2021, 12:00:16 am
It says at the end.  Think they are from the Nottingham area. Chris Plant knows or knew them.

cheque

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#16 Re: Peregrine flying at High Tor
July 28, 2021, 09:42:41 am
“Deg” Bolger (the younger of the two brothers, who leads the first pitch) was one of the owners of the Nottingham Climbing Centre when I first climbed there. A sound bloke who did the first ascents of Curving Aręte  (hardest in the Peak at the time) and Birch Tree Wall Eliminate at Black Rocks.

Pretty sure Ted Wells used to hang around there too but can’t remember seeing Terry. Ted and Terry did a lot of FAs and FFAs on Willersley and (particularly) Wildcat in the 70s.

 

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