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Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021 (Read 2144 times)

RobK

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Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 11, 2021, 04:15:31 pm
M - Rest.

T - Max hangs at +25kg, all complete this time.

W - A couple of hours bouldering at the Boardroom. Not feeling bad but not great either. The classic summer state when Iím hardly ever climbing indoors. Skin quite thin/sore afterwards.

T - Had decided on Wednesday that I wasnít going to bother with a planned long Pembroke weekend due to a changeable looking forecast, but then realised if you wait for perfect weather for UK trips, youíll never go on any! So left home at 11pm and drove halfway down and the rest in the morning. I was meeting a big group down there who had decided to head to Carfei Bay near St Davidís for the day. Not my idea of a great venue but a nice spot, fantastic weather and a good chance to consolidate skills in a relaxed setting. A couple of unremarkable HS and HVS leads on the left hand side and followed Jack up a techy E3 on the slab. Armorican looked cool but it was busy all day unfortunately.

F - The forecast showed rain coming in at lunch and we didnít fancy getting stuck down at Mother Careyís in the wet which was sort of the only option. After a bit of dithering, we ended up finding Morfa Bychan in the guide, a sport crag 45 minutes down the coast. Ended up having a good day of mileage in the high 6s. We stayed dry but apparently there was rain back at base so a decent option in the end. Also seems apt that I went all the way to Pembroke and managed to get to a sport crag.

S - St Govanís. An overcast morning gave way to glorious sunshine. Abbed in to an empty crag so Evon lead Army Dreamers while we had the chance. A very pleasant juggy romp. I then did Hangover 77 which felt like the first Ďproperí trad route Iíve lead. Nice to get the E1 tick. We finished off on The Arrow which lived up to its rep, although we agreed it felt easier than Hangover. Probably the only day I got the true Pembroke experience and it was mega. My calves donít half need a rest though.

S - A damp drive back from Pembrokeshire. 30 minute run to stretch the legs.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2021, 04:42:35 pm by RobK »

Duma

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#1 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 11, 2021, 04:34:12 pm
Sounds like a good weekend Rob, def right about having to accept sketchy forecasts!


M - completely wiped out from second jab yesterday, came home from work after a couple of hours. Felt much better by the eve though.
T - Wyndcliffe, couple of showers but never enough to wet the crag. Nice easy day with gf, 10 routes OS, incl 3 x 6c+
W - Brean, had to wait out a couple of showers again, but fine in the end. Couple of 6b link ups to warm up, then dogged up the gf's project to get a tr in for her. Then went for a "flash" go on Global Solutions (7c). This starts up El Chocco and finishes up Bullworker, both of which I've done a few years ago, however all the hard climbing is independent and new to me. Anyway, any ethical grey area soon became moot, as my initial attempt made no real impression on the crux. Managed to work something out after sitting on the rope but it seemed pretty desperate at the grade. Came down not feeling optimistic about a quick send. Had a think while resting and came up with a possible way to shortcut the first hard move via a heel. Couldn't tell from below how realistic it was though. Next go got to rest before the crux not having decided between the two options, the desperate sequence I'd done the moves on (but not linked), or the imagined (possibly) easier heel beta. Ended up trying the heel way, on the basis I'd hopefully be able to reverse back to the rest if I'd misjudged the distance. Thankfully no need, the heel worked really well, felt fairly steady to the top. Done just in time to beat the tide on the walk out, and catch the ice cream shop 5 mins before they shut.
T - nothing, 12hr shift.
F - 8hr shift. Run eve, 6k, flat, pavement, easy pace.
S - nothing, 12hr shift
S - nothing, 12hr shift

70.5kg

shark

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#2 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 11, 2021, 11:45:29 pm

11.6-7 average 159.9 up 0.5lbs

M. AM Discovered van was stolen. Went to dentist. PM Some pull throughs on bachar ladder. Max hangs session. Pissed off.

T.

W.

T. PM/Eve LPT with Simon King - first time climbing with him. Humid and a bit greasy. 4 tie ins mainly working the powerful move up at the end of the traverse. In the end used a left foothold under the bulge Iíd not tried before which was only 2 inches higher than the one I normally used but the body position worked lots better.

F. PM/Eve. Joined by Ted. Still sweaty. Two tie ins again mainly working on the same move. Struggled to do the final snatch maybe because the undercut pinch was greasy Wish I could see what it feels like when my body and the conditions are fresher. Felt broken but managed to retro flash the Pink Pinkie Snuffs It 7a.

S.

S. PM Deposited Goat at Rubicon then had a 3.5hr walk with Poppy.

Thought I had sussed the move at the end of the traverse last time so a bit glum that Iím still stuck on trying to do it reliably though the warm and muggy conditions lately will have made that harder.

There are 7 alternative ways to do the move that Iíve seen. In videos of Ben on it he does it a different way each time!  The way Iím doing it using the rounded pinch/is the most conditions dependent way but I think the most efficient for my lack of span and finger strength. Currently contemplating a solo day trip to ab in just to work the move again.

Overall itís maddening to have had 6 trips over there now and an unimpressive 13 sessions on it yet still not be on redpoint. I suppose I shouldnít be surprised - itís the hardest 8a down there (couple of locals have said they think itís 8a+) and I havenít ticked an 8a for 9 years now.

Weight has been edging up over last few weeks so will start addressing that again.

Liamhutch89

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#3 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 09:56:17 am
Not a very exciting climbing week for me. I forgot to log anything but trained on 5 days: board / max hangs / rings / repeat....

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#4 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 10:17:11 am
Tu - Kilnsey. Stick clipped up Man with a Gun then had a go from the start, getting to the third bolt. Not the best connies. The aim was just to get some more familiarity with the holds and moves.

F - Pot Scar. A beautiful bucolic evening. Beautiful, compact, delightfully-pocketed limestone. Tractors mowing the fields. Still air but not a single midge. Did Sunspot, LSD, Addiction, and Ringing Groove.

Su - Kilnsey. Two tie-ins on MwaG. On the second go I almost linked to the ledge but made an error at the last minute. Need some liquid chalk for this as there's not really much time to chalk-up until you're through it. Made a bit more progress with the top wall. Next session needs to focus on trying to link this but I think I need to get a new pair of shoes broken in for it - feet feel like they're rolling off some of the edges up there.

yetix

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#5 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 10:30:19 am
2 weeks as I missed the last one!

M Griffs. Fell off the last move of Ovine low left so many times. heart breaker.
T Rest
W Hartland Carnage wall. Too fucked from the drive down south. Too Hot. Managed to get the end of Corridors dialed but no link
T Rest
F Hartland Carnage wall. Punted off the last move maybe 3 or 4 times somehow.
S Rest
S Mid 2 and front 2 Max hangs on no hang device. Session on Moonboard working through benchmarks
M Rest
T Mid 2 and front 2 Max hangs on no hang device. Session on Moonboard working through benchmarks
W Rest
T Mid 2 and front 2 Max hangs on no hang device.
F Warton. Went to check out Black wall for GF, Swarming with ticks so bailed back to the Plum Buttress, Managed to get E-Fix done fairly quickly. Psyched to try Poison next time as got all the moves on that one and feeling fairly good at sustained problems atm

S Rest
S Griffs. Managed to finally get Ovine Low Left done after punting off the last move 10+ times in this session and the session before. Psyched. Got all but 1 move dialed on Lovine but felt a little powered out to try that move. Rested a few hours and went the Tor and got on Bens briefly. Too tired to link but got the start and end section dialed for when I turn up fresh sometime soon. 

Also had my finger looked at by huffy, and turns out I broke my finger at some point, I think I'm 2016/7 and the finger has adapted hence me always dragging on my LH. Been given some exercises to do to strengthen the surrounding tissue in the A2 as its much weaker on that finger than others as a result, along with some nervous system work (as my left side seems to have some nerve entrapment too) psyched to know why my fingers a bit of a mess really
« Last Edit: July 12, 2021, 10:38:24 am by yetix »

duncan

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#6 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 10:51:59 am
M - Stronghold. 8 sets of 5 minutes on / off 5c and 6a circuits. Skin stopped play. Shoulders: IsYsTs, handstands, side-planks, lock-offs on a bar (170-100 degrees) emphasising shoulder form.
T - Walked 10km. Shoulders as above.
W - Walked 10km. Shoulders as above.
T - Uphill Quarry with Purple Sue, the artist formerly known as Pylon King, and the hanging Gordon. Sunny weather, good company, but I wasnít really feeling the love for some reason. Warmed up on a new 6a to the right of Uphill Corner. Tried Living Dead which Iíd been on last year but failed to seal the deal as I only had two hours free. Iíd been confident I could finish it off rapidly but couldnít even get up the first wall.
Gordon gardened and drilled, PK explored, and Sue and I tried Proper Job. This has good climbing, is generously bolted (a Ďproper jobí) and is very popular. Itís also squeezed into a 8í strip between a VS on left and an E5 on the right. Many of the bolts look to be clippable from the latter which is disappointing and itís hard to avoid both. I didnít feel very inspired and didn't try properly on the onsight. The RP went without fuss. A lot easier than Living Dead and probably not 7a+.
F - Family stuff. Walked 10km.
S - Bouldering on Knightstone Island at Weston Super Mare. Back in the day when I was temporarily living at my folksí place near Weston I found a neat little wall here, 15í of compact sea-washed limestone. It was fun to revisit. There are two easy cracks and you can fashion around four independent problems - from about 5A to 6A. A decent addition to the Toll Road crags if you fancy some 80s style thin crimps. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRKNtnYDWOb/?utm_medium=copy_link
S - Family stuff. Walked 7km. Drove through torrential rain to Pembroke.

Bits and pieces this week and my mind on other things. It will be good to get two or three days in Pembroke when the weather clears.

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#7 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 11:18:35 am
M - Trail running 12.17km 920m

T - Trail running 16.63km 987m

W - Shoulder stability + core. Finger boarding + 25 pull ups on 10mm edge.

T - Hamstring exercises + stretches

F - Trail running 23.11km 1976m

S - Trail running 27.81km 2044m

S - Climbing at Huben. Felt really out of shape. Cool secret/not so secret crag though. Tried an amazing 8a which was a really fun route to have a hard time on. The route culminates in pulling through a roof by going feet first and jamming up into a double knee bar before releasing and following with the hands to get established on a big hanging flake. I had no endurance at all but I think I will try and get back to this crag a few times and build some fitness up this summer as the moves on the 8a were a lot of fun.

This week was mainly about shocking the body into tackling big hills again before a 102km Ultra with 5700m elevation gain in Engadin in Switzerland this coming weekend. It was probably a bit high volume when one should be tapering but after 2 weeks of either being in flat areas or in quarantine I didn't want the race to be a massive shock to the system!

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#8 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 03:07:28 pm
Crazy stuff Yetix, guess downside of being a Beast is not realising you had a broken finger...

T: Density pickup on pinky, 5lb 40s X1, 7lb X2, 8lb X1. DBC. 3 finger hangs, 10s. BW X2, +5lb X2, +10lb X2. RH max hangs -50lb *1set, -55lb *5sets. Climbing up to 10 M-. Squats 185lb X5 *3sets. Chest, Pull-ups, dips *3sets

W: Density pickup on pinky, 5lb 40s X1, 7lb X1, 9lb X1, pain when straightening. Hike up Mt Warren 13,295ft. 1.6 miles, 500ft ascent. Great to be able to summit a 4000m peak after work!

S: Longs Peak, 14,259ft. This thing kicked my unacclimatised ass, felt v tough. 15 miles, 5k ft ascent. Started at 0300, back to car by 1400. Slog up to the Keyhole at 13,200ft then a circuitous ascent up lots of interesting and exposed class 3 terrain to the summit, used crampons and axe for one small bit. Old shoes gave plantar fascitis symptoms for the last 6 miles, v painful. The Diamond looked amazing

S: LH feeling not bad and swelling gone down a lot so tried density pickups HC (pinky open) and got up to 30lb L side 40s X2 (RH I do 40lb)!

So I think the pinky injury I had maybe wasn't a pulley, maybe something to do with the bruised knuckles I got 24th Dec last year - pinky hasn't been the same since. Gonna start hangs again this week.

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#9 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 04:09:04 pm

Overall itís maddening to have had 6 trips over there now and an unimpressive 13 sessions on it yet still not be on redpoint. I suppose I shouldnít be surprised - itís the hardest 8a down there (couple of locals have said they think itís 8a+) and I havenít ticked an 8a for 9 years now.


Iíve always thought of Over the Moon as the hardest and Statement second. Did Statement a fair bit before the others though (along with  Mussel Beach). Funny how back in the day it was always written up as  Ďget fit and itís a good one to flashí even though Iím not sure many did and now people think itís hard.

Nibile

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#10 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 06:04:54 pm
Power Club
Mon - clean 5x5 65/70 kg. Oh yes. Bentover row wide grip 60 kg 5x6. Snatch pulls 5x5. Lattice edge hangs in between sets. Nice session, happy.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights, Lattice edge hangs.
Thu - 1' rope, 1' boxing bag, 1' rest, x10.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights.
Sun - boxing bag.
« Last Edit: July 12, 2021, 06:13:17 pm by Nibile »

shark

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#11 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 06:18:42 pm

Overall itís maddening to have had 6 trips over there now and an unimpressive 13 sessions on it yet still not be on redpoint. I suppose I shouldnít be surprised - itís the hardest 8a down there (couple of locals have said they think itís 8a+) and I havenít ticked an 8a for 9 years now.


Iíve always thought of Over the Moon as the hardest and Statement second. Did Statement a fair bit before the others though (along with  Mussel Beach). Funny how back in the day it was always written up as  Ďget fit and itís a good one to flashí even though Iím not sure many did and now people think itís hard.

Iím just going on what everyone seems to be saying. Over the Moon Direct seems pretty popular now - presumably easier than the original finish which is unpopular I expect.

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#12 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 07:58:41 pm

Overall itís maddening to have had 6 trips over there now and an unimpressive 13 sessions on it yet still not be on redpoint. I suppose I shouldnít be surprised - itís the hardest 8a down there (couple of locals have said they think itís 8a+) and I havenít ticked an 8a for 9 years now.


Iíve always thought of Over the Moon as the hardest and Statement second. Did Statement a fair bit before the others though (along with  Mussel Beach). Funny how back in the day it was always written up as  Ďget fit and itís a good one to flashí even though Iím not sure many did and now people think itís hard.

Iím just going on what everyone seems to be saying. Over the Moon Direct seems pretty popular now - presumably easier than the original finish which is unpopular I expect.

The direct is miles easier than the original yes. The original is a bit dependent on jamming abilities as has 2 bolts of Ďe4 6b Ď fingercrack right at the end but is hard and Pumpy regardless.
Iíd rank them ;
Mussel Beach
Over the Moon Direct
Parasite
Battle of the Little Big Orme
Statement
Over the Moon.

Duncan Disorderly

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#13 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 12, 2021, 11:05:45 pm
M: 20 hilly miles on the bike - hard!
T: Routes @ AW - Crowded and hot, didn't stay long.
W: Routes @ AW - Better, got on F7a+ I dropped last week on lead, dropped last move after daft foot placement - tired.
T: Routes @ Horseshit up to F6a+- Few more stars off the list.
F: 20 odd miles on the bike - hot and wet!
S: Walked up to Stanage to do a few easies with the GF - pissed down after racking up, was still tired so sacked it all off and ate pizza.
S: Routes @ AW - Slow warmup to F6b, got on F7a+ and pissed it - still felt tired but decided to get on F7c+ as it was free - Surprised myself by doing a few links I'd not done before but sweated off the top holds - trashed!

Ramped up the volume this week, trying to up the active rest and drop down to fighting weight (whatever that is - I try not to obsess, just eat well, drink less and exercise more - tends to work,) Good to get a new F7 done even if it's just indoors and make progress on summat hard for me! Did feel tired so going to do a bit less volume and higher intensity this week - hopefully get down to Portland next weekend and see how the onsight fitness is going...

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#14 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 13, 2021, 01:01:49 pm
M - W - nothing, recovering from illness

Th - some assessment work, looking at pinch block pick ups, wrist strength (weak), undercuts strength (poor), scapula strength (improving), etc. Then a chilled board session. Felt clunky after 5 days off / being ill. Warmed up into it though and was pleased to do a couple of medium things. Brief goes on harder problems I've done before which all felt utterly impossible. It was pretty warm, and I was clearly still feeling the effects of illness plus lack of snap from the few days of not doing anything.

F - max hangs benchmarking session. Experimenting with moving to a larger (26mm) edge. Managed 10s +42kg with a good couple of seconds in reserve. Tried +47kg and did 5s with maybe one second in reserve. Considering last week I was struggling at +25kg on a 20mm edge, that doesn't feel too bad.

Sa - first visit to Chee Dale Cornice. Absolutely dreadful session, I don't even want to write about it. Last week I warmed up on a 7a+. This week I completely failed to do Whose Line is it Anyway 7a+, dropping the last move on my best go. I see it's given 7b in the BMC guide which I'd probably agree with. Felt disconnected from what my body was doing, zero fitness, weak as piss, core like jelly and generally miserable. Must take positives...I very nearly did it, and I got better on it each go, climbing more fluently as the session went on. On my best go I tried hard, especially above the last bolt on the run out final section before the top, with no fear. As a result took a pretty big fall as well, with no probs. What a flipping lovely crag too!

Su - 5km run, mix of muddy trails and pavement with some ups and downs. First one in ages but I've been feeling generally unfit lately. Did in about 25mins.

Weird week.

Liamhutch89

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#15 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 13, 2021, 01:51:33 pm
M - W - nothing, recovering from illness

Th - some assessment work, looking at pinch block pick ups, wrist strength (weak), undercuts strength (poor), scapula strength (improving), etc. Then a chilled board session. Felt clunky after 5 days off / being ill. Warmed up into it though and was pleased to do a couple of medium things. Brief goes on harder problems I've done before which all felt utterly impossible. It was pretty warm, and I was clearly still feeling the effects of illness plus lack of snap from the few days of not doing anything.

F - max hangs benchmarking session. Experimenting with moving to a larger (26mm) edge. Managed 10s +42kg with a good couple of seconds in reserve. Tried +47kg and did 5s with maybe one second in reserve. Considering last week I was struggling at +25kg on a 20mm edge, that doesn't feel too bad.

Sa - first visit to Chee Dale Cornice. Absolutely dreadful session, I don't even want to write about it. Last week I warmed up on a 7a+. This week I completely failed to do Whose Line is it Anyway 7a+, dropping the last move on my best go. I see it's given 7b in the BMC guide which I'd probably agree with. Felt disconnected from what my body was doing, zero fitness, weak as piss, core like jelly and generally miserable. Must take positives...I very nearly did it, and I got better on it each go, climbing more fluently as the session went on. On my best go I tried hard, especially above the last bolt on the run out final section before the top, with no fear. As a result took a pretty big fall as well, with no probs. What a flipping lovely crag too!

Su - 5km run, mix of muddy trails and pavement with some ups and downs. First one in ages but I've been feeling generally unfit lately. Did in about 25mins.

Weird week.

Thursday: maximum strength benchmarking followed by high intensity board session after a long break
Friday: more maximum strength benchmarking
Saturday: weak

Why are you surprised?  :lol:

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#16 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 13, 2021, 02:08:56 pm
M - W - nothing, recovering from illness

Th - some assessment workÖ Then a chilled board sessionÖ I was clearly still feeling the effects of illness

F - max hangs benchmarking session.

Sa - first visit to Chee Dale Cornice. Absolutely dreadful session, I don't even want to write about itÖ.

Youíve got at least three factors (recovering from illness, test-based training stuff, going to a new crag without a rest day) that are going to stop you from performing well on Saturday there so I wouldnít beat yourself up about it.  :hug:

Edit: Liam beat me too it but I was nicer.  ;)

I used to find Kilnsey, Malham, Chee Dale & Raven Tor to all have really different styles of climbing and if I climbed on one of them for any length of time I needed to recalibrate a bit for another.

I think the grade of Whoís Line depends on how you go left low down? The original way is the hard one but most people do by it a newer easier method. I canít remember clearly but itís something like that.

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#17 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 13, 2021, 03:51:18 pm
Last week;

Monday: Big bouldering session working on volume and technique at the Works, benched 5x5 at 60kgs. Felt good.

Tuesday: Rested

Wednesday: Short session focusing on quality for an hour, really managed to get a lot out of it and get some high quality work in, managed a red at the Works which felt really good. Then benched 5x5 at 65kgs and did 5x5 with 12kgs added weight pull-ups.

Thursday: Rested

Friday: Did weighted pull-ups, 5x5 at 14kgs

Saturday: Solid bouldering session playing the game of finding a problem and carefully working out the exact easiest technical way to do it (very rewarding) followed by a couple of hard problems, then 5x5 bench at 60kgs. Then went to the Sheaf Boulder in the evenin and worked some hard moves, did a couple of repeats and got up to the same high point on a long running project I put together there.

Sunday: Short session at the Works, technical work, doing laps on stuff I'd already done to try and get the problem exactly right. Skin was feeling it a bit. Psyche is high, planned some outdoor trips for the following week.

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#18 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 13, 2021, 05:09:24 pm
M - W - nothing, recovering from illness

Th - some assessment work, looking at pinch block pick ups, wrist strength (weak), undercuts strength (poor), scapula strength (improving), etc. Then a chilled board session. Felt clunky after 5 days off / being ill. Warmed up into it though and was pleased to do a couple of medium things. Brief goes on harder problems I've done before which all felt utterly impossible. It was pretty warm, and I was clearly still feeling the effects of illness plus lack of snap from the few days of not doing anything.

F - max hangs benchmarking session. Experimenting with moving to a larger (26mm) edge. Managed 10s +42kg with a good couple of seconds in reserve. Tried +47kg and did 5s with maybe one second in reserve. Considering last week I was struggling at +25kg on a 20mm edge, that doesn't feel too bad.

Sa - first visit to Chee Dale Cornice. Absolutely dreadful session, I don't even want to write about it. Last week I warmed up on a 7a+. This week I completely failed to do Whose Line is it Anyway 7a+, dropping the last move on my best go. I see it's given 7b in the BMC guide which I'd probably agree with. Felt disconnected from what my body was doing, zero fitness, weak as piss, core like jelly and generally miserable. Must take positives...I very nearly did it, and I got better on it each go, climbing more fluently as the session went on. On my best go I tried hard, especially above the last bolt on the run out final section before the top, with no fear. As a result took a pretty big fall as well, with no probs. What a flipping lovely crag too!

Su - 5km run, mix of muddy trails and pavement with some ups and downs. First one in ages but I've been feeling generally unfit lately. Did in about 25mins.

Weird week.

Thursday: maximum strength benchmarking followed by high intensity board session after a long break
Friday: more maximum strength benchmarking
Saturday: weak

Why are you surprised?  :lol:

Haha yes I know. Was still disappointing, especially as I'll often go out after I've been training the day before and be fine.

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#19 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 13, 2021, 10:41:46 pm
M - W - nothing, recovering from illness

Th - some assessment work, looking at pinch block pick ups, wrist strength (weak), undercuts strength (poor), scapula strength (improving), etc. Then a chilled board session. Felt clunky after 5 days off / being ill. Warmed up into it though and was pleased to do a couple of medium things. Brief goes on harder problems I've done before which all felt utterly impossible. It was pretty warm, and I was clearly still feeling the effects of illness plus lack of snap from the few days of not doing anything.

F - max hangs benchmarking session. Experimenting with moving to a larger (26mm) edge. Managed 10s +42kg with a good couple of seconds in reserve. Tried +47kg and did 5s with maybe one second in reserve. Considering last week I was struggling at +25kg on a 20mm edge, that doesn't feel too bad.

Sa - first visit to Chee Dale Cornice. Absolutely dreadful session, I don't even want to write about it. Last week I warmed up on a 7a+. This week I completely failed to do Whose Line is it Anyway 7a+, dropping the last move on my best go. I see it's given 7b in the BMC guide which I'd probably agree with. Felt disconnected from what my body was doing, zero fitness, weak as piss, core like jelly and generally miserable. Must take positives...I very nearly did it, and I got better on it each go, climbing more fluently as the session went on. On my best go I tried hard, especially above the last bolt on the run out final section before the top, with no fear. As a result took a pretty big fall as well, with no probs. What a flipping lovely crag too!

Su - 5km run, mix of muddy trails and pavement with some ups and downs. First one in ages but I've been feeling generally unfit lately. Did in about 25mins.

Weird week.

Thursday: maximum strength benchmarking followed by high intensity board session after a long break
Friday: more maximum strength benchmarking
Saturday: weak

Why are you surprised?  :lol:
Mon-Wed: ill
Thurs-Fri: batter myself
Sat: in surprise news I climb like a spanner.

Bradders 🤦🏻‍♂️

Duncan campbell

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#20 Re: Power Club 591 5-11 July 2021
July 15, 2021, 12:29:01 pm
Tu - Kilnsey. Stick clipped up Man with a Gun then had a go from the start, getting to the third bolt. Not the best connies. The aim was just to get some more familiarity with the holds and moves.

F - Pot Scar. A beautiful bucolic evening. Beautiful, compact, delightfully-pocketed limestone. Tractors mowing the fields. Still air but not a single midge. Did Sunspot, LSD, Addiction, and Ringing Groove.

Su - Kilnsey. Two tie-ins on MwaG. On the second go I almost linked to the ledge but made an error at the last minute. Need some liquid chalk for this as there's not really much time to chalk-up until you're through it. Made a bit more progress with the top wall. Next session needs to focus on trying to link this but I think I need to get a new pair of shoes broken in for it - feet feel like they're rolling off some of the edges up there.

I found quite a useful quick shakeíníchalk at the third clip - get bridged wide - left on obvious polished slopey foothold right foot way out right on a little nubbin by some broken bits of rock. Obvs you can chalk left hand but there is a bit of a crimpy sidepull/undercut roughly level with the big pocket (maybe a little below?) that you can use to shake your right hand. I defo felt like my right hand getting gassed was the thing that did me in on that start section. Itís defo a good one for liquid chalk as I donít think I chalked up for the whole of the top wall from the ledge. Such an ace route!

 

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