[teestub]

but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.

Word.

So many highly starred lip traverses in the N Wales guides!

[User deactivated.]

but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.

Word.

So many highly starred lip traverses in the N Wales guides!

A limestone lip traverse in a quarry in Doncaster is one of the best problems i've ever done! (midnight caller, earth quarry)

[teestub]

Then I feel very sorry for you 😂

[steveri]

Topsy Turvy at Apparent North the other day. Tiny, lip traverse, peters out to nothing, someone had done a crap under the roof. What do I win?

[jwi]

High rockover into precarious mantle top-outs on steep crimpy board style boulders are shit moves imo.

Midnight Lighting?

[Fiend]

Topsy Turvy at Apparent North the other day. Tiny, lip traverse, peters out to nothing, someone had done a crap under the roof. What do I win?

Nothing, unless it was hard enough* to appease the elitist masses.




(The shit moves, not the shit itself)

[remus]

Nothing, unless it was hard enough* to appease the elitist masses.

(The shit moves, not the shit itself)

Damm, V6 max, no way that's gonna get any likes on insta.

[Banana finger]

Shit moves:
Awkward match / hand swap
Multiple "go again" moves
Bunched sitters where arse off the floor is the crux
Anything with a finger jam
Anything with a knee bar
Anything at crag X

[SA Chris]

but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.

I'm so relieved it's not just me.

Agree, more lip disservice from here.

[Johnny Brown]

I guess things with painful holds (although some of us are into that)

I find this very hard to believe. Is it not just that some people find themselves 'better' (lighter) than others on these moves and hence get some oneupmanship out of it? People don't really like painful holds do they?

[User deactivated]

Shit moves:
Awkward match / hand swap
Multiple "go again" moves
Bunched sitters where arse off the floor is the crux
Anything with a finger jam
Anything with a knee bar
Anything at crag X

I think X has some brilliant moves and I've done some excellent moves off kneebars, wherever I lay my hat at Gallt yr Ogof has a well cool move off a knee and Texas hold em at trowbarrow the same.

Maybe replace 'anything' with 'most stuff'.

[cheque]

Is it not just that some people find themselves 'better' (lighter) than others on these moves and hence get some oneupmanship out of it? People don't really like painful holds do they?

I mean, masochism is definitely “a thing” so there must be some people who get a thrill from using painful holds. 

[Bonjoy]

Lip travs are often bland and kneebars often spoil boulder problems, but there are definitely lots of fantastic exceptions to both of those 'rules'.
Sit starts to walls, mono moves, moves on sharp holds, moves on loose/eroding rock, these all tend to be bad, but nothing is worse than the start move on Out of My Tree.

[Fiend]

Monos are ace (assuming they're ergonomic), you uncouth oaf.

Lip traverses are usually terrible but arbitrary sit starts just to get a bigger grade on walls / slabs are the absolute worst.

[Banana finger]

Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?

[Ross Barker]

Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?

I was thinking that myself, at what point does a lip traverse become an arête?

Logically, I feel like 45 degrees would be the point, but like everything with climbing, you can't talk about absolutes because there are too many exceptions.

[Bradders]

Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?

I was thinking that myself, at what point does a lip traverse become an arête?

Logically, I feel like 45 degrees would be the point, but like everything with climbing, you can't talk about absolutes because there are too many exceptions.

In what world is L'Angle Parfait a lip traverse?! Or shit, for that matter.

[AMorris]

Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?

I was thinking that myself, at what point does a lip traverse become an arête?

I would say this happens at the point where you start pressing on the wall to generate opposition and move upwards rather than heel hooking and hanging to udge sideways. The former feels exciting and rewarding when done well and with suitable elegance and confidence, the latter always feels rubbish even after the 5th time you have done this identical move on that problem. Extra points if your hands are lower than your feet and the crux is keeping your heel from slipping off.

[yetix]

So Knight Rider is shit?

[petejh]

Just thought of another one, possibly the shittest of all moves - a dynamic move from a deep pocket, you have to quickly pull out fingers from pocket, finger gets bent backwards if you don't do it right. Happened to me twice in last ten years and makes me wince thinking about it. Should come with strong health warning.

[Fiend]

Unless it's part of getting your #first8A insta-tick in which case it's the most valuable and justifiable move ever 

[Johnny Brown]

Cocoa team special. Such a disappointment.

[36chambers]

Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?

Not only that, but plenty of lip traverses climb as if they were prows. 

[dunnyg]

I love lip shuffles, but only when the only holds are on the lip amd you dont have to eliminate holds further back. The classic one on the keel boulder was a favourite lip bum shuffle when I first bouldered round there 

[SA Chris]

Any moves where the difficulty is not hitting the ground.