[Fiend]

Discuss.

Cheers to Doylo for the catchphrase.


Bonus points if the value is something other than "muscular stress and therefore training" which surely could be done far better on a board/fingerboard rather than doing shit moves.


P.S. I don't really know as I don't do shit moves...

[Rob F]

If you approach climbing with the mindset of a Flamenco Dancer then there will never be any shit moves...

[Wellsy]

Volume of easier shit mixed in with hard moves is the way. You get plenty of time in while also pushing yourself, but without overdoing it.

[Fultonius]

Discuss.

Cheers to Doylo for the catchphrase.


Bonus points if the value is something other than "muscular stress and therefore training" which surely could be done far better on a board/fingerboard rather than doing shit moves.


P.S. I don't really know as I don't do shit moves...

Easy-but-shit moves may have a harder, but more elegant solution. Hard-but-shit might be the only feasible way, so it still takes skill, timing, strength etc.

Good example: Sufferance. Apparently there's a shit but potentially easier way across manky crimps, or a beautiful but slightly technically harder footwork way across the sloping rail.
. 

[Dexter]

I think it comes down to measurement and visualisation of what peak human performance looks like. No matter how shit the move is you can still appreciate the level of skill/strength needed to get to the point of being able to do it.

[Will Hunt]

If the first part of the statement wasn't true then limestone bouldering in the UK would not exist.

When eyeing up scratty caves in the Dales and wondering whether they could produce decent bouldering venues I always remember the old adage: limestone doesn't have to be good to be the next big thing, it just has to be hard.

[abarro81]

Lime boulders have plenty of good moves, just usually are shit lines with non-finishes

[mr chaz]

Anyone got examples of what you consider particularly shit moves? Shit lines are a plenty but struggling to think of specific shit moves, excluding dynos of course!

[cheque]

Anyone got examples of what you consider particularly shit moves?

I’m struggling with the concept of a“shit” move too. To quote Bolehillbilly “It’s all climbing and climbing’s better than virtually everything else”.

I guess things with painful holds (although some of us are into that), loose rock, perma-filth etc. would be in the category. I’d call a route or problem shit for being eliminate or very unbalanced in difficulty but I can’t ever recall thinking a single move that wasn’t afflicted with the above was shit. Certainly not an easy one. 

[Ross Barker]

All the moves that I can't do are shit moves, in my book.

It's how I protect the fragile little ego of mine.

[mr chaz]

I suppose the final move of rock atrocity would get a few people's vote.

[RobK]

I suppose the final move of rock atrocity would get a few people's vote.

Until you do it on the link, at which point it rapidly becomes an all time great.

[petejh]

I suppose the final move of rock atrocity would get a few people's vote.

What, scumming your knee/thigh against the rock to give better purchase while moving your hand? That's most of the hard stuff in the cave (and in Barrows' career)!

[petejh]

High rockover into precarious mantle top-outs on steep crimpy board style boulders are shit moves imo.

[Fiend]

P.S. I don't really know as I don't do shit moves...

"But Fiend, you don't do any hard moves either!!

FFS you lot. Is the heat addling your little brains??


P.S. Edge Problem at the Cromlech and Cenotaph Corner crux at the Cromlech are genuinely objectively irredeemably shit moves.

[AMorris]

P.S. Edge Problem at the Cromlech and Cenotaph Corner crux at the Cromlech are genuinely objectively irredeemably shit moves.

I really don't feel like my daily browse of ukb is complete without seeing you slag off the edge problem My mate hates it too, because he has fingers like shrek.

Any lip traverse where I have to throw my heel 2ft over the lip to heelhook the good hold way above my head is dead shit in my book, but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.

[User deactivated.]

bunched up moves are shit. However, a ginormous lank past the crux is glorious. I'm not biased at all. 

[36chambers]

High rockover into precarious mantle top-outs on steep crimpy board style boulders are shit moves imo.

ooft, you've just described a 5 star finish to a 4 star climb. That's the stuff of dreams.

[AMorris]

actually I am going to adjust my answer to any move in a boulder which requires you to use your mates chalk because you forgot yours/ran out, only to find out he has that horrendous super ultra fine stuff which feels like flour and cakes onto your hands like goo what pervert likes that stuff

[Bradders]

One that springs to mind is the top section of Alpha at Anston Stones. The original method, which thankfully can be avoided, is to take an utterly God awful pocket with your left hand and lurch upwards with your right in a snatchy sort of manner. Usual practice once the top is reached is to then take 1-12 weeks off climbing to allow the injury you just picked up to heal.

It's only 7B though so depends on your definition of what's hard 

[Fiend]

It's only 7B though so depends on your definition of what's hard 

It's almost like "hard" is all relative so the original quote is complete nonsense 

[36chambers]

One that springs to mind is the top section of Alpha at Anston Stones. The original method, which thankfully can be avoided, is to take an utterly God awful pocket with your left hand and lurch upwards with your right in a snatchy sort of manner. Usual practice once the top is reached is to then take 1-12 weeks off climbing to allow the injury you just picked up to heal.

It's only 7B though so depends on your definition of what's hard 

There is a position, with a high left heel and low right foot, which allows all the movement to come from your legs and you barely have to pull on the pocket. The entire problem is still pretty log though imo

[36chambers]

Anyone got examples of what you consider particularly shit moves?

Relocating from Yorkshire to London?

[Dexter]

Anyone got examples of what you consider particularly shit moves?

Relocating from Yorkshire to London?

Does that class as a hard shit move, where say moving from Sheffield countryside to city centre is an easy shit move?

[andy popp]

but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.

I'm so relieved it's not just me.