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Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021 (Read 2115 times)

Fultonius

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#25 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 09:52:15 pm
 :sorry:

Thanks for the video, useful. I would hazard that posterior chain core strength, and loads... loads... and loads of time on rock when you can will be your quickest route to high grades. Can't go wrong with steep board.

Now, on the campussing. People more well versed on it than me might be better placed to give advice, but if you want to do some - keep it to once a week MAX for now.

I reckon you're on to a solid start for someone with your amount of mileage, and with your psyche you'll have no shortage of drive to train.

shark

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#26 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 02, 2021, 11:18:23 pm
11.3-5 Average 158.6 down 0.6lbs

M.

T. AM. Tor for 7.40 to meet Karl. Cloudy but sweaty. Again. Cross N’Angry. Three tie ins mainly concentrating on Anger Management headwall this time (whole route feels like four routes stacked on top of each other). Felt tired and clunky first go up but better thereafter. Hard work pulling on the crimps in these conditions and nearly wore through my tips. Did ok though and made some refinements and will aim to link this whole section next visit. Hopefully it will feel like a path if good conditions bless us with their presence ever again.

W.

T.

F. AM Tor for 7.40am to meet Nick. Raining. 3 tie ins on Anger Management. First go jugging to the hole. Better conditions and felt stronger on the moves. Tried to link the headwall but unsuccessful. Probably overcooked myself. Second go from ground dogged up to hole but much more tired. Last go had a flail around on Push Up. Overall a bit tired and jaded.

S.

S.

Decided to have some downtime - not had more than 3 days off all year

tommytwotone

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#27 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 03, 2021, 09:42:07 am
:sorry:

Thanks for the video, useful. I would hazard that posterior chain core strength, and loads... loads... and loads of time on rock when you can will be your quickest route to high grades. Can't go wrong with steep board.

Now, on the campussing. People more well versed on it than me might be better placed to give advice, but if you want to do some - keep it to once a week MAX for now.

I reckon you're on to a solid start for someone with your amount of mileage, and with your psyche you'll have no shortage of drive to train.

Good advice this Wellsy - I've watched the video a couple of times and the things that jump out for me are

a) you are "leaving your feet behind" a bit - for me this is a footwork / technique thing, you can address that weakness with more time actually climbing. I would trade some of your campussing time for this.

A good mate of mine once said "crimp the f*** out of it and push really hard with your feet" - looks like you have 50% of this sorted, time to focus on the other half.

b) ditto core / posterior chain - you'll probably get this for free by doing a), but it'll help maintain the tension you need to keep your feet on.

Sure there's loads of Insta-friendly core exercises you could do to get shredded and build an iron core, but you're probably best to focus on climbing steep stuff, but as controlled / slowly as possible.

Note all of the above is very much "do as I say not as I do", and from a "7a on a good day" 43 year old Dad of two with a good (ahem) "Covid stone" of weight to cart around at the moment!
« Last Edit: August 03, 2021, 10:06:36 am by tommytwotone »

Duncan Disorderly

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#28 Re: Power Club 594 26 July - 1 Aug 2021
August 04, 2021, 09:51:45 am
Late entry, was in t'Lakes...

M: Routes @ Harpur Hill, found shade! Did some pretty good stuff up to F6b+ and GF flashed a F6a on TR and led a F5... The force is getting stronger in this one!
T: Routes @ AW - Warmed up then repeated the F7A+ I did the other week, felt harder than before but rinsed it with plenty in the tank...
W: Rest - Shoulder stuff.
T: Routes @ AW - Good long warmup then played on the moves on an F7a and did it first go - Nice!
F: Rest
S: Routes @ AW - Vertical walls & small holds onsighting mission up to F6c+, felt steady and was surprised as had been planning to go to the Lakes but held off as we were both shattered and couldint be arsed with the drive...
S: Drove to the Lakes - stopped at Bramcrag Quarry for some sport up to F6b... Really enjoyable little tick-fest, did loads in a short space of time including one of the best F6a+'s I think I've ever done - GF TR'd it clean too, ace!

Good week - been upping the difficulty slowly but trying to onsight (or first try at the very least) as much as possible as Cloggy is looming (10 days and counting) so feel that rock reading skills, time on small holds and just staving off the pump will probably be more beneficial than owt else (apart from also placing some bloody gear - that'll be part of next week's entry  :smartass:)...

 

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