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Wrights Rock access (Read 25223 times)

spidermonkey09

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#50 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 15, 2022, 08:39:19 pm
I have a lot of sympathy with your views Bradders, in fact I totally agree! Consequently I have no problem, perversely, with under the radar trespass to access crags like eatswood which have been completely banned, or walking around the margins of fields without public rights of way. Done well, such activity retains climbing at a low level, normally the landowners are aware but don't care cause the numbers are low, and everyone ends up broadly OK.

Where it gets trickier is when the landowner is actually being quite reasonable in allowing access and then climbers take the piss. I don't agree that the restrictions have been set up to fail, they just have a different vision for the land as a nature reserve which isn't compatible with pad parties and lamp sessions. Given they've sought to find a middle ground I think climbers being respectful of that is the least we can do.

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#51 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 15, 2022, 09:35:02 pm

if one was to go to Wright's, the best approach would be to park at Peakstone in order to minimise the chance of disturbing/being seen by the landowners. It sounds like you wouldn't see any signs if you approached from there.



It might be useful to remember that landowners are often pretty savvy about access and climbers in general and have been known to check forums such as UKC and UKB for discussions such as this.


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#52 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 15, 2022, 11:38:27 pm

And you are saying you are against others being shown/encouraged into the same thing

I forever rue the formative days of my life when nobody was there to show me and encourage me into ice-hockey/badminton/fishing as life-affirming pastimes. Oh hang on... no that's bullshit I never think about it at all! I couldn't care less about the path not taken. I found my way just fine but perhaps I was just 'lucky'.

Why this strong drive among some people to 'show other people the sport' and to 'grow the sport'? Let people discover it for themselves. If they don't then they'll find something else that gives them joy, or maybe they won't. Beyond a certain level of encouragement it comes across as quite preachy and missionary - what's wrong with snooker and darts? I detect some middle-class missionary zeal.

I suppose the underlying questions are what is 'enough' of an opportunity to climb, and how are we doing in some abstract ideal of giving most kids a look at this world that they might like? How much promotion is too much? Tricky lines to define. Also the age-old question of 'who benefits' should be asked of promoting growth in climbing participation - as in does the BMC benefit or does the typical outdoor climber benefit? If the consensus is that the BMC benefits e.g. from increased stature and funding from growth, but outdoor climbing doesn't, then that can't be the right way. 

Perhaps the best thing that could happen for access issues in climbing would be for a 25% reduction in numbers of people climbing outdoors.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2022, 11:54:10 pm by petejh »

sdm

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#53 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 16, 2022, 07:19:53 am

if one was to go to Wright's, the best approach would be to park at Peakstone in order to minimise the chance of disturbing/being seen by the landowners. It sounds like you wouldn't see any signs if you approached from there.



It might be useful to remember that landowners are often pretty savvy about access and climbers in general and have been known to check forums such as UKC and UKB for discussions such as this.

The intent of parking there would not have been to break any of the rules. It would have been to follow the rules, but to do so less visibly.

Edit: Having read back my post: don't think I made it clear that the discussions about hypothetically approaching from Peakstone took place before the complete ban was announced. I would hope nobody would risk making things worse by going there now.

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#54 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 16, 2022, 12:12:58 pm
Fair point that the Anston argument is poor (and a good point that people have to get approach/parking information from somewhere), but I think that it illustrates something about how there's a divergence in terms of where people get their information from these days. Maybe a better example would be the recent thread on Kidneystone: on the one hand you have dozens of videos on Instagram, YouTube, and Vimeo showing people starting with left hand on the crimp, and on the other you have the first ascensionist matching the jug in the dim and distant past. In that case the confusion seems to come from the fact that the proper start is a) a bit shite and dabby and b) not specified anywhere (hence the thread), but the broader point is that social media has decentralised knowledge; it used to be that guidebooks were the sum total of our codified knowledge, then came magazines, books, websites like UKC...

But with all of this there was a kind of 'top-down' communication - so in the context of bouldering, that meant people establishing problems and writing them up and all repeats using that original write-up (where the problem is, what the start holds are, where the finish holds are for choss). These write-ups then became videos and these videos were necessarily hosted on social media, and then you fast-forward to today and it's nigh-on impossible to figure out whether the video you're watching shows the FA/the same sequence the FA used or is crouch-starting/dab-taking/non-matching degeneracy. The day before Griffs was closed I went down to the Blackout roof inspired by a video I saw on Instagram, only to realise that the line climbed by the guy in the video and the line of the FA were totally different (classic case of all the right-hand holds on the FA were used for the left hand in this vid). I feel like there’s been a bit of a shift, away from a focus on how the problem was originally done (where the FA write-up/footage was a kind of ‘sacred text’, although we still have elements of that with things like heels on Green Traverse and Tsunami) and towards how I can get it done - so easier sequences, knees, etc. That opens the door to a whole tangent on Instagram green ticks, internet democratisation, and 'consumption' in climbing that's even further off-topic than I've already gone though...

I guess my original point with it was that if we can agree that there's a large section of the climbing population that are getting their information from social media rather than what used to be centralised sources of information (i.e. guidebooks, UKC), then that does suggest that it's possible that people have been climbing at Wright's while totally unaware that they were doing anything wrong, because this move away from centralised knowledge and towards discrete bits of content has divorced knowledge of how to climb a specific problem from knowledge regarding the broader area, in terms of things like access issues. I'm mostly playing devil's advocate here - obviously this scenario entails people not just not using certain websites but also managing to miss clearly written signs on the approach to the crag - but I guess am trying to expand on Carliios' point that putting things on UKC/UKB/the RAD may not actually constitute reaching the people that need to be reached on this front, and that being exasperated that people aren’t looking at UKC/UKB/the RAD is less useful than asking why they aren’t and how we can change that.

One thing that does occur is there was that 'Respect the Rock' series that the BMC produced post-lockdown - from memory they mostly featured social-media presences like Louis Parkinson and Jon Partridge, and there was a pretty good one about Cademan that seemed to be an attempt to pre-empt the obviously incoming shitstorm with regard to parking there, but I don't remember one for the Churnet or anything about it generally being good practice to check the RAD. Definitely a better approach than the Catalyst video at Pigeon's Cave that featured ban-flouting where they just edited out those bits and deleted the comments pointing it out... More immediately, getting a big fuck-off (BMC-funded?) sign at the crag itself to remove any excuses seems like a great idea.

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#55 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 16, 2022, 12:26:41 pm
Fair point that the Anston argument is poor (and a good point that people have to get approach/parking information from somewhere), but I think that it illustrates something about how there's a divergence in terms of where people get their information from these days. Maybe a better example would be the recent thread on Kidneystone: on the one hand you have dozens of videos on Instagram, YouTube, and Vimeo showing people starting with left hand on the crimp, and on the other you have the first ascensionist matching the jug in the dim and distant past. In that case the confusion seems to come from the fact that the proper start is a) a bit shite and dabby and b) not specified anywhere (hence the thread), but the broader point is that social media has decentralised knowledge; it used to be that guidebooks were the sum total of our codified knowledge, then came magazines, books, websites like UKC...

But with all of this there was a kind of 'top-down' communication - so in the context of bouldering, that meant people establishing problems and writing them up and all repeats using that original write-up (where the problem is, what the start holds are, where the finish holds are for choss). These write-ups then became videos and these videos were necessarily hosted on social media, and then you fast-forward to today and it's nigh-on impossible to figure out whether the video you're watching shows the FA/the same sequence the FA used or is crouch-starting/dab-taking/non-matching degeneracy. The day before Griffs was closed I went down to the Blackout roof inspired by a video I saw on Instagram, only to realise that the line climbed by the guy in the video and the line of the FA were totally different (classic case of all the right-hand holds on the FA were used for the left hand in this vid). I feel like there’s been a bit of a shift, away from a focus on how the problem was originally done (where the FA write-up/footage was a kind of ‘sacred text’, although we still have elements of that with things like heels on Green Traverse and Tsunami) and towards how I can get it done - so easier sequences, knees, etc. That opens the door to a whole tangent on Instagram green ticks, internet democratisation, and 'consumption' in climbing that's even further off-topic than I've already gone though...

I guess my original point with it was that if we can agree that there's a large section of the climbing population that are getting their information from social media rather than what used to be centralised sources of information (i.e. guidebooks, UKC), then that does suggest that it's possible that people have been climbing at Wright's while totally unaware that they were doing anything wrong, because this move away from centralised knowledge and towards discrete bits of content has divorced knowledge of how to climb a specific problem from knowledge regarding the broader area, in terms of things like access issues. I'm mostly playing devil's advocate here - obviously this scenario entails people not just not using certain websites but also managing to miss clearly written signs on the approach to the crag - but I guess am trying to expand on Carliios' point that putting things on UKC/UKB/the RAD may not actually constitute reaching the people that need to be reached on this front, and that being exasperated that people aren’t looking at UKC/UKB/the RAD is less useful than asking why they aren’t and how we can change that.

One thing that does occur is there was that 'Respect the Rock' series that the BMC produced post-lockdown - from memory they mostly featured social-media presences like Louis Parkinson and Jon Partridge, and there was a pretty good one about Cademan that seemed to be an attempt to pre-empt the obviously incoming shitstorm with regard to parking there, but I don't remember one for the Churnet or anything about it generally being good practice to check the RAD. Definitely a better approach than the Catalyst video at Pigeon's Cave that featured ban-flouting where they just edited out those bits and deleted the comments pointing it out... More immediately, getting a big fuck-off (BMC-funded?) sign at the crag itself to remove any excuses seems like a great idea.

Agreed on all points here. I think we need a multi-pronged approach to disseminating this information to a wider audience. I think the BMC videos with the big personalities was a great approach because they also then share it across their socials bringing the info to that wider audience. I don’t think we need to abandon the old websites I think we just need to expand on it a bit more and I definitely believe that BMC could be less slack when working with land owners like churnet. Happily would create a fund to put up signs, help keep fences and paths in good condition etc.

SA Chris

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#56 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 16, 2022, 12:56:31 pm
Maybe everyone who posts a video on social media should post a notice at the start of the video giving basic outdoor etiquette; "respect the rock; No music, no shit, no litter, check RAD" rather than sticking up a logo to make people think they are a sponsored hero.

sdm

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#57 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 16, 2022, 02:00:04 pm
One thing that does occur is there was that 'Respect the Rock' series that the BMC produced post-lockdown - from memory they mostly featured social-media presences like Louis Parkinson and Jon Partridge, and there was a pretty good one about Cademan that seemed to be an attempt to pre-empt the obviously incoming shitstorm with regard to parking there, but I don't remember one for the Churnet or anything about it generally being good practice to check the RAD.

Lattice did a video about Churnet last year.

They included a quick section on ethics. They mentioned:
- small groups
- the guidebook
- brushing
- not climbing on wet rock

However, given their reach, their target audience (heavily weighted towards indoor climbers) and the sensitivity of Churnet, I would have liked them to go further and include:
- different sectors are owned by different people, with sensitive access/ bans in place for some sectors
- access agreements change. Therefore it's important to check RAD/UKC/UKB/local knowledge for the latest agreements/ advice/ rules for the sector you're visiting
- stress just how fragile Churnet rock is if it's wet and how important it is not to climb on anything that isn't bone dry.
- Parking. Which has been an issue at Churnet like so many places since 2020.

steveri

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#58 Re: Wrights Rock access
June 16, 2022, 04:03:42 pm
Has to be a multi-pronged approach and we can all do a bit, I've nominated myself as Sandstone Ethics Bore at the wall.
BMC RAD isn't yet showing the new restriction - is there a Rob Dyer shaped gap? I've mailed Dave T and Rob (not sure if he's still there).

Edit: that'll learn me to press F5. The RAD IS now updated, should flow through to UKC soon.

JimC

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#59 Re: Wrights Rock access
September 03, 2022, 09:10:11 am

Wrights Rock is to be a wildlife/nature reserve area. It has at least two amber list species trying to establish. Our management plan for the aforementioned does not allow for large footfall. By negotiation, we decided to keep it to six climbers max at any one time on Fri, Sat and Sun. The rest of the time it's reserved for both our paying guests, friends, us and the wildlife. We will be thinning trees, letting in light, reducing bracken and adding to bio diversity. In addition, putting in new tree species.


Costs have been expended to sign up, erect gates and re-fence.


Despite now prominent and detailed access signs, some climbers are willfully ignoring signs. We have even put two signs up at the rock face detailing simple conditions of access after being told numerous times the signs were "not seen".


Since re-opening the rock with new signs etc 1st August were have had a lock forced, a sign removed, people climbing on non climbing days, people staying over the curfew time of 5pm/dusk. One person refused to leave who should not have been there resulting in me threatening to call 911 (they would probably ignored me as a civil matter) and recently we asked two to leave who were climbing by lights.

We are getting wearysome of people thinking it's their right to enter, do what they like, argue it's "their right", be requested to "give the rock to the people", assert the land boundaries are incorrect and state that we don't own the rock. It is a matter of public record that Wood Farm (HM Land Registry) owns the land, the rock, the face and up and behind the rock and there is no right of way. In addition we possess the original deeds/MAP dated 1919 when the Earl of Shrewsbury sold the plot to this farm via the settlement of the Alton Towers Estate.


Most climbers have integrity unfortuately some don't and the ongoing issues are making it tiresome.


I won't be replying to this message.



shark

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#60 Re: Wrights Rock access
September 03, 2022, 09:28:03 am
Sorry for the bother and upset and on behalf of UKB thank you for continuing to allow limited access despite everything. It’s very much appreciated - it’s a wonderful crag to climb on.

Best regards, Simon Lee

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#61 Re: Wrights Rock access
September 03, 2022, 10:58:03 am
Hi Jim, I would like to second what Simon says. It is real shame that you have had to deal with inconsiderate behaviour and people not following the access agreement. As ever, it’s a minority who let down everybody else.

I hope this can be resolved soon.

Jonathan

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#62 Re: Wrights Rock access
September 03, 2022, 03:28:24 pm
Another person who'd like to echo  Simon post. Many thanks for continuing to allow access for climbing alongside your plan for the land. If there's any way climbers can in some way contribute to the nature reserve, eg perhaps through a working group, there are many who would be willing to give up their time.

Cheers

Jim

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#63 Re: Wrights Rock access
September 03, 2022, 11:07:05 pm
Thanks for taking time to come on here and post. I've sent you a private message.

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#64 Re: Wrights Rock access
September 04, 2022, 10:00:26 am
Echo those comments, it feels like you’re trying to do the right think for the land, your family and careful users. Sorry for the upset, there are plenty of considerate climbers out there …and some less so.

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#65 Re: Wrights Rock access
September 04, 2022, 11:20:35 am
Hi Jim thinks for highlighting these problems here, I'd be happy to help out in any way and I'm sure many others would feel the same, as spidermonkey said.

JimC

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#66 Re: Wrights Rock access
April 02, 2023, 06:11:49 pm
We are again closing the rock for a month. We re-open on May 5th 2023.

Being closed due tiresome and persistant rule-breaking.

We may insist no access unless pre-booked by email as "trust" appears to be not working.
« Last Edit: April 02, 2023, 06:33:49 pm by JimC »

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#67 Re: Wrights Rock access
April 02, 2023, 06:40:23 pm
Hi Jim. Have private messaged you.

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#68 Re: Wrights Rock access
May 06, 2023, 10:28:48 am
Seeing as access opens up again this weekend and there's nothing else of interest happening today, I've been thinking about Wright's.

Unless I'm missing something, the RAD and UKC say 'maximum group size 6'. One of my mates has taken this to mean that as long as you go up in a group of 6, everything's ok, even if there's another group already there. My understanding from what Jim said above was that the rule is 6 climbers total, but there's clearly some ambiguity here. Do the RAD and UKC access notes need clarifying, or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

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#69 Re: Wrights Rock access
May 06, 2023, 01:23:07 pm
If that means friend specific groups should not be more than 6 individuals, it follows that they would be ok with six groups of people who don’t know each other at the crag.

Seems improbable that the owners would be okay with 36 people milling around up there when they have clearly attempted to limit the numbers. A bit of common sense is needed.

That said, making online info idiot proof may be wise.

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#70 Re: Wrights Rock access
May 07, 2023, 12:02:18 am
It means a maximum of six people in total at the crag.

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#71 Re: Wrights Rock access
May 13, 2023, 10:12:16 pm
Been open two weekends and access abuse has started again each weekend. For now on, NO access is permitted to any of Wright's Rock until further notice. Tomorrow is open  (14/5/2023) but that's the last day.

This is due to persistent abuse of the access conditions by climbers onto this private land/Site of Special Scientific Interest.

Updates on the access status will be communicated to the “BMC” website.

Sorry but free informal access has proved a mistake. Ramblers, anglers and metal detectorists  we have no issues with on other parts of the land.

Whilst we figure out how we can maintain free access with reciprocal responsibility from climbers, please find other rocks.

I do accept 80% - 85% of climbers are very responsible - unfortunately you do not wear a foolproof ID.


 




« Last Edit: May 13, 2023, 10:22:31 pm by JimC »

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#72 Re: Wrights Rock access
May 14, 2023, 10:44:26 pm
If the BMC set up an online registration system it might help. 6 slots am, 6 slots pm. Check online if no slots available don't go.
I can imagine currently folks driving out there to find it full not wanting to turn around after meningitis the trip. Better to know in advance it's full.

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#73 Re: Wrights Rock access
May 15, 2023, 08:22:00 am
If the BMC set up an online registration system it might help. 6 slots am, 6 slots pm. Check online if no slots available don't go.
I can imagine currently folks driving out there to find it full not wanting to turn around after meningitis the trip. Better to know in advance it's full.

This would require everyone who climbs to know about the registration site, unfortunately I can’t see it working. 

sdm

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#74 Re: Wrights Rock access
May 15, 2023, 08:48:09 am
Including the details for registration clearly on the signs at the entrance would solve that. With a polite notice asking people to go to one of the other buttresses if there are no slots available.

Churnet gets great signal so it would be easy to check the registration site before proceeding.

People might arrive unaware, but they'd know before they got to the rocks and would have no excuse for not complying.

 

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