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Power Club 590 June 28 - July 4 2021 (Read 3451 times)

duncan

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Power Club 590 June 28 - July 4 2021
July 04, 2021, 05:47:24 pm
M - Stronghold. 6 sets of 5 minutes on / off 5c and 6a circuits. Shoulders: IsYsTs, handstands, side-planks, lock-offs on a bar (170-100 degrees) emphasising shoulder form.
T - Walked 15km. Shoulders as above.
W - Walked 10km. Shoulders as above.
T - Cheedale Cornice with csl. Bumped into some old friends which was lovely. Warmed up bolt-to-bolting Armistice Day but still struggled on the crux over the small roof. Gave it a go and it went surprisingly smoothly, other than huffing and puffing to an inordinate degree. Also had a play on Big Zipper, this was rather harder and I’m not sure I could manage the crux even when fresh.
F - Walked 10km. Fell into a mental black hole, no idea why, not had one of these for a while. Had to attend a social event which was excruciating.
S - Fingerboard: 85kg x10s ie 90-95% max. Staying close to failure by increasing the duration, next time will increase the load. Another ridiculous social obligation in the evening.
S - Shoulders as above; pull-ups. The lad played in a concert, a fun social event.

A good week, mostly. Aches under control. Starting to feel a bit fitter though still running out of puff very quickly. Happy to get Armistice Day done. It’s not a big number but it’s “5.12” (by some measures) which resonates for me, it’s not really my style, I could barely string together three hardish moves a month ago, and I still feel I have very little stamina.

Plan: at least one session of try-hard bouldering or RPing plus one of endurance or volume. Fingerboard if possible. Will be down in Somerset for family reasons most of the week so should be able to grab a couple of days outside.

Duma

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Glad you're starting to get back duncan.

M - eve Cheddar, Remnant. Lap on It's A Kind Of Magic (7a+) to warm up. Wasn't sure what to get on but Ant was keen on The Business (8a) (Wrist Business 7c/+ into all the meat of Try To Remember E5) so ended up on that. First go dogged up Wrist Business, did crux of Try To Remember ok to last thread, then hung around a bit getting a couple of wires in to back it up and tame the runout to the belay, which was not as trivial as I'd assumed. Next go missed crimp on WB crux so came straight down. 5 minutes rest then got through WB but couldn't get much back in kneebar on TTR, off on crux a few moves after. 4th go through WB again but feeling worse, got kneebar much better though and recovered OK, sadly despite feeling better on TTR crux didn't get any further. Busted after. Probably would have got another go with longer rests between attempts but that's evening sessions I guess.
T - nothing, 12hr shift.
W - nothing, 12hr shift.
T - pm TCA, mostly moonboard. Terrible session, attempting 7A and 7A+ benchmarks, managed none.
F - Cheddar, Remnant. Back on The Business. Stupid hot. Dogged up to get clips and gear in, improved sequence on TTR crux and climbed it really smoothly, felt confident it would go. Next 2 attempts couldn't get through WB, not even close - the crux moves were feeling like the living end even individually. Shoulder started to niggle too. Felt like I'd missed my chance on Monday eve, almost decided to sack it and dog up to retrieve the draws, as didn't want to risk my shoulder, but in the end decided to give it a final shot. Switched shoes from muiras to the futuras I was wearing on Monday, not sure why but this seemed to make a massive difference. Got through WB, though barely, and recovered well in kneebar. TTR section went fine, if I'd used one go on Monday to refine beta probably would have done it then. Nevermind, all well that ends well, assuming I've not tweaked my shoulder...
S - nothing, dad duties
S - TCA pm, session cut short so only 40 minutes of desultory bouldering. 2nd jab in the eve.

70.5kg

shark

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Well done on Armistice Day duncan  :clap2:

11.4-7 average 159.5 up 1.5lbs

M.

T. Early AM Tor. Dropped Goat at Griffs. Humid, still, low teens temp but felt warmer. Got hot and greasy. Abbed in and worked Crucifixion headwall. Apart from the bits that are falling apart (the undercut at the end of the crux) it’s all coming together. Two more tie ins doing it in sections from the Prow hole. Pleased to link the section from the hole to the middle of the AM headwall both times in the conditions. Start is still wet. Will glue hold back on next visit.

W.

T.

F. Early AM Tor with Goat. Met Karl Smith there who I haven’t seen for ages. Muggy. No one else today. Put rope up Tin Of with two rests. Bolt to bolted up AM and worked on the moves. Got some useful body position microbeta on the crux. Linked crux to the break. Stayed clipped in whilst Karl got a belay from Goat. Then linked Prow hole to crux then came down. Jugged to Prow hole but tired so bolted to bolted to Crucifixion. Surprised myself by leading Tin Of clean. Abbed in to Crucifixion headwall and glued broken hold back on. Jugged back out and got a cheer from the Monsal Trail when I summited.

S.

S. AM Ewa keen for Chee Dale. I was keen for nothing. Muggy again. Zero motivation. Did Ewa’s sandbag 6b+ warm up with rests. Decided not to climb. Ewa did Aberration first redpoint - her first UK 8a - but says she’s done harder 7c’s. Ummed and aahed and decided I might as well give the 7a+ to the right a whirl and onsighted it surprisingly. Ewa flashed it after as the monsoon started. Got drenched as decamped to Cornice. Too busy there. Chatted shit for 20 minutes and went home.

Mid season malaise. Muggy weather saps my energy and motivation and is obviously not great for climbing at your limit.
Options are:
1. Mid season training top up for strength
2. Drop the grade and do some volume
3. Soldier on regardless with current projects
I’ll probably do 3. Obviously.
Also putting on weight.

« Last Edit: July 05, 2021, 08:56:34 am by shark »

Liamhutch89

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My weight seems to have dropped a little over the last couple weeks; I'm basically a crimp waif now at a svelte 83kg! A bit lower volume this week:

M - max hangs, board, rings

T - rest

W - Went to Goyden and spent a couple of hours working out the moves on Ribtickler. All went down ok with a link from around 5 moves in to the top off stacked pads. Seems promising.

T - rest

F - Return to Goyden. A bit more refinement on Ribtickler but linking from the bottom feels tough (Bradders, you were correct!). I know I could do it given enough time, but I don't think it's going to be a priority as it's an hour and a half drive either way, and i've got plenty on the mag lime to be doing. Enjoyable two sessions regardless of no tick.

S - rest

S - collection of new motorcycle!

RobK

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M – A mate came round for a board session so spent an hour or two playing on that and making up daft problems. Lock offs to finish with.

T – Keen to get back to the Gorge, but the forecast was 50/50 so headed up to Pinfold with a good group instead. I’ve probably been to Dinbren 100+ times but have never been down the valley to here before. Cool spot, but the rock quality doesn’t seem as good and the bolting is … patchy. Anyway, started on Atmopsheres 7a which is obviously the line of the crag. Full sun and no wind in the little bay meant it felt like I was climbing in an oven as I set off on the onsight, I should probably have waited. Came off just before the rest trying to get a draw in. Steady away next go, felt a grade easier with the draws in and some cloud cover. I was probably a little harsh on it at the time, but I didn’t really get the hype. Decent line but relatively short lived and I kicked off a load of loose rock. It wouldn’t be 3* anywhere else. After a lot of umming and arring and admiring the view (that valley is just so beautiful) I had a bolt to bolt on Through the Grapevine 7b. Tough bottom boulder into steady face/slab climbing. No time for an RP unfortunately.

W – I went trad climbing. My sole experience of this before is seconding a couple of routes at Almscliff 4 or 5 years ago. To people who know me, this is sort of the equivalent of the world ending. Took my mate up on an offer to show me the ropes, so to speak, and headed to Pot Hole Quarry for a load of gear placement and anchor building practice. Started with an 8 metre Severe on the right hand side for my first ever trad lead. Topped out to wild applause from the crowd; a feature length film documenting my journey will follow in due course. Jack then said he didn’t want me to get in the mindset of never being able to fall on gear, so worked my way up a HS falling on every piece I placed. Finished with a lead of The Dog HVS 5b which I didn’t actually hate (apart from feeling like my calves were going to explode). A jolly good day out.

T – Rest. Tried to go to the Gorge but it was condensed out. I think this is the first time I’ve ever got the conditions prediction wrong here, my reputation lies in tatters.

F – Lunch, max hangs at +25kg. Hard, failure on the last rep. Getting motivated for projects again so thought I’d start a block of these again. Still frustrating to be down on the +31kg I was at in April but, given the break I’ve had from them and the conditions, I’ll take it. After work had a brief 30 minute play on the board finishing off a problem I’d set on Monday. Finished with lock offs and pull ups.

S – 30 minute run and 100 push ups.

S – A couple of hours bouldering at the Boardroom. Nice to see some friendly faces.

Didn’t manage to get on either of the projects at LPT or the Gorge, but a fun week all the same.

Duma

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S - collection of new motorcycle!

Pics!

Nibile

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Nibile

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Power Club
Mon - 28°. 30' EMOM 50 kg, 5x clean, high pulls, pull ups. Overhead carry 40 kg x 7'. Lattice edge hangs in between -4 +2.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - TBDL 90 kg x5 + 30" farmer's x6. Wow. Press 40 kg x5 + 30" overhead carry x6. Double wow.

tommytwotone

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Goal: new (to me) 7a outdoor somewhere.

Didn't train on Tues as there was some football game on

Thurs: LSD session, new set definitely a level up grade-wise, some good challenges. Managed a V5 by deadpointing through the crux, then got sucked into a V6 which I worked out but could not stick the last move of. Of the current set that makes 3 of the V6s I am in that state for!

Kind of hard to get psyched to go back and close them off though as you know it's going to be loads of frustration till you finally get it.

Sun: Went for a run, at (7 year old) daughter's request (they're doing stuff at school about being active etc). Was pretty impressed, she kept up, didn't really have to cut my pace down much and she happily did a 2.5km circuit.

JohnM

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M - Nowt

T - Nowt

W - Shoulder stability, core + finger boarding

T - Hamstring strengthening + stretching

F - Nowt

S - Running 12km 109m

S - Nowt

In quarantine most of the last week and then at a 40th birthday weekend in France at the weekend so not a lot got done. Motivation is quite low and there is a lot of stuff getting in the way of consistent training at the moment. Hopefully, that will get better. I have got a 105km mountain ultra in Switzerland in a couple of weeks so I at least to do some prep for that!

Duncan Disorderly

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M: Routes @ AW - Still feeling a bit jaded up to F6b+
T: Routes @ Horseshit - Avoided the football and had the crag to ourselves. GF led her first UK outdoor route, good skills!
W: Routes @ AW - Good mileage, found a new F7a+ that I stupidly decided to TR rather than lead and should really have flashed but sabotaged myself by exclaiming "I'll be gutted to flash this on a toppy" mid crux then sliming off a good hold...
T: Shoulders and stretching - good to do this, need to do more!
F: Routes @ Stoney - Opened the account on Virgin King F7b+, bolt to bolt up to the crux to warm up then came down so the GF could do Lowerlands on a TR... She found it minging, took ages and were losing the light so ran up to my highpoint, did all the moves and lowered off a biner in the dark as couldn't see the next bolt (free BD biner - or my gratitude for getting it back to me - for anyone on here who's on the same route)... Good route, think my beta was a bit off for the crux looking at UKC... Went off big pocket with RH to LH longish crimp, RH sharp sidepull, LH crimp (long move), RH to longish crimp to sort feet, RH sidepull with feet on woeful smears LH out to poor crimp used as sidepull, RF up to blackened knobble and throw with RH for undercut... Looking at UKC beta seems to indicate getting RF high on to crimp before going for undercut which makes sense as the way I did it was very low percentage.
S: Hungover mileage @ AW - I was shit!
S: Helped a mate build a platform for a cabin after a night supping whiskey outside, idiots with nail guns and chop saws - lucky I've still got all me fingers - More hungover mileage @ AW - I was also a bit shit!

Did a fair bit - Tired today... Good to find summat hard (for me) but not sure that the GF is psyched to go back... Hoped that Garage Buttress would be a good spot for me to work summat and her have a bit to go at... I'm psyched, her not so much...

Bradders

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Some good weeks folks, nice one.

I had the week off work so made it out a fair bit. Ruined at the end though...

M - Kilnsey with Rich W. Warm and still despite forecast Easterly breeze. Ben Moon belayed me on Directissima. Had decided to try Visitation on the basis it's longer than anything else I've done, with the top third being quite sustained as well. Bolt to bolt up it first. Forgot my brush; unfortunate as the finishing quarter was filthy, but sorted a sequence at least. Next go up felt great all the way to the last bolt where I realised my sequence didn't quite work. Tried to sketch it but this just led to pumping out. Last go made it to the penultimate bolt but again too pumped to continue.

Tu - Kilnsey with Dal. There early so in full sun to start. Warm up go up Directissima and it felt like the living end in the sun, every hold slippery. Felt tired. Fortunately the breeze really picked up thereafter. Dal convinced me to have a go at Face Value on top rope, and I managed to flash it whilst being spoon-fed the beta. Shame it's not bolted imo. First go up Visitation was putting the clips in but climbed the start well and decided to just see how far I could get. Felt great but somehow wrong-handed myself just before the techy final third, and then my foot pinged off a small smear and I was off. Dal being c. 30kg lighter than me I went half the length of the crag! Next go felt tired after the start but recovered well in the rests and managed to just keep on going all the way to the finish, somewhat pumped but still fairly comfortable. Great feeling. Fitness coming on! Shattered in the evening.

W - rest

Th - short max hangs session. Pretty crap tbh, managed 3x 10s +25kg Lattice edge, 2 min rests but last rep was very close to failure so dropped it down to +20kg for last two sets. Weighed myself after; 78kg, heaviest I've ever been and a full 10kg heavier than Jan / Feb 2020. Hoping it's mostly muscle.

F - Kilnsey with Steve R. Did Directissima and Alternative Extra Option to warm up. Then a bit of project shopping. Tried Subculture first. Did all the moves first go up but no real links, other than the top traverse which I've done before on Slab Culture. Second go up made a good few links, including from after the second move through the move to the  edge that people seem to say is the crux. I found the next move harder though, dropping in and then going up to an undercut. Did it in isolation but struggled linking any climbing into it. Promising anyway. Afterwards had a go up The Thumb and felt pretty cruisy on it, although only got to about half height before coming down as people were waiting to redpoint. Finished with a bolt to bolt up Sticky Wicket, knackered by this point.

Sa - booked to go to Kilnsey again but picked up a stomach bug / food poisoning, with everything that goes with it. In bed all day.

Su - slightly better but still in bed all day and very little food. Least the weather was crap.

Will Hunt

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Tu - took a day off and headed to Yew Cogar. Warmed up by clipsticking up Staying Power. Went up for a bolt to bolt but had it in the back of my mind to go for it. Arrived at the resting flakes in good condition so had a quick shake and carried on to the top. Very satisfying to get up it so unexpectedly. The sun was snapping at the base of the crag so there was time to clipstick up Devil's Grip - unfortunately I found it quite unpleasant so won't be rushing back. Finished off with the 6c+ at the left-end of the crag - dirty, loose, unobvious. It ended up being a fight with some power yelps.
Finished off with a swim in the pools about 15mins walk upstream of the crag. Magical.

Th - Lunchtime dip in the Wharfe. Surprisingly warm.

Su - Kilnsey. Busy busy busy. Warmed up on Allakazam and Achilles Heel. Two bolt to bolts up Man with a Gun which felt feasible. Also had a retro-flash burn on Ground Effect, almost getting through the second crux. Finished with a little burn on The Truth Drug for pump. Quite unpleasant conditions but good to find a project worth further investigation.

spidermonkey09

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Rested Monday through Wednesday after wiping myself out at the weekend. Not a lot else to report other than

T - Kilnsey. Had a go on Urgent after warming up but struggled to shake the flash pump. Made it to top kneebar, recovered a bit before doing the top crux and briefly holding the jump to the jug before falling. Annoying as if I’d warmed up a bit better I’d have done it for sure. Long rest before another go, got to knee again but decided to commit to nailing my core and hanging hands off for 20 seconds. This is not risk free as I have fallen out of the knee before! Recovered well and did crux and held the jump before resting a bit and doing the nervy and techy next sequence. Rested for ages at the jugs on the shelf before committing to the upper groove, skipping a clip on the way as I didn’t want to stop. Very pleased to get this done, had to really work for it. Quick go on Dead Calm to finish after flashing WYSYWYG.

F - last day of work, drinks in the evening.

S- hungover. Delighted to see a text from Bradders bailing as I felt awful, although obviously I didn’t envy his situation! Went socialising instead and watched the football. Much the same on Sunday.

Decent week despite only one climbing day. A quiet week this week as visiting parents, which also allows time for a painful flapper on the crease of my finger to heal.

36chambers

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...after flashing WYSYWYG.

:-\

I'm assuming you didn't weight the rope when you tried it way back when? ;)

dunnyg

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I heard anyone who climbs wysiwyg flashes it, independent of how many times they have been on it.

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...after flashing WYSYWYG.

:-\

I'm assuming you didn't weight the rope when you tried it way back when? ;)
Was that when he was downclimbing to the ground to preserve / blow the flash??

36chambers

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I heard anyone who climbs wysiwyg flashes it, independent of how many times they have been on it.

#HuwFlash

Will Hunt

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Quote from: dunnyg's UKC logbook for WYSIWYG
26/8/2009   Top Rope (dnf)   Got to the big jug, before it goes off left, puddle in it, pinged off. Good up until then.

30/5/2012   Lead dog      Bolt to bolt to start. Got it wired. One tricky move! 3 lead attempts.

1/6/2012   Lead flash   yay. felt like poo. clipsticked up, then lead it. Easy for 7b.


It's the "easy for 7b" bit that gets me every time  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

dunnyg

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Still the hardest thing i've clipped the chains on. :boohoo:

 

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