[Andy B]

Fencing no longer there and access seems fine.
The original start is really quite dirty again though, the well chalked hold in the photo is grassed over. I tried starting on the sidepulls just left, it's OK for a few moves then there is an utterly desperate move down into the short vertical crack on poor footholds - any beta for this bit Andy / Remus?
Starting from the short vertical crack (where Andy is in the photo) I thought it felt like hard 7B or french 7c+, judging by the chalk/nettles this is where most are climbing it from at the moment. Some nice rock and cool moves

Cheers Mark, the first metre or so took ages to dry out, which is why I also mentioned the start from the high sidepulls in the diagonal crack (visible just left of the overchalked hold in the photo). This is where Remus did it from.
I thought the drop down into the crack where Adam et al started was one of the harder sections, and reachy, but Remus seemed to find it fine, so may have come up with better beta. I can PM you my beta for this if you’d like?

I’m not sure why you think the start is unpleasant Niaomi? Using my beta it adds 31 nice varied moves into the crack where you started.
Even the slow drying bit has a good sequence balancing around a mono, and doesn’t need the whole wall to be dry. I’ll probably be round there soon, so I’ll try and give the start a good scrub.

[SA Chris]

Impressive guardianship, giving it a clean for the benefit of others, when you have clearly done it already...

[Andy B]

I live fairly close by, and it’s nice for people to enjoy problems that you’ve put up.

[NaoB]

Hey Andy, to be fair I didn't even really look at the first part as I had no idea it was part of the climb. I'm well impressed it adds 31 moves!! I'm definitely interested in going back for another play now. My "unpleasant" comment was only based on Mark saying it had a really hard move to drop down into the crack (which might make the difficulty a bit unbalanced compared to the rest?) and the dirtiness of it.  From further comments, it sounds like with decent beta and a scrub this first section is well worth doing.

Good effort developing it, no doubt the whole wall needed a good clean on first inspection - your vision and hard work yielded an excellent bit of climbing.

[remus]

I tried starting on the sidepulls just left, it's OK for a few moves then there is an utterly desperate move down into the short vertical crack on poor footholds - any beta for this bit Andy / Remus?

Sorry, I can't remember my beta for this section. Very unhelpfully I do remember there was a bit of a trick to it, but I can't remember what the trick was!

[SA Chris]

I live fairly close by, and it’s nice for people to enjoy problems that you’ve put up.

Wanna move to NE Scotland?

[mark20]

Cheers Mark, the first metre or so took ages to dry out, which is why I also mentioned the start from the high sidepulls in the diagonal crack (visible just left of the overchalked hold in the photo). This is where Remus did it from.
I thought the drop down into the crack where Adam et al started was one of the harder sections, and reachy, but Remus seemed to find it fine, so may have come up with better beta. I can PM you my beta for this if you’d like?

Yes please that would be great.
I thought the start from the sidepulls actually seemed the more obvious start position, compared to the wide crack on the right which is above an annoying rocky hole/slope and is way dirtier/overgrown, but I can understand why you chose to start there for the FA. I'd definitely head back and try both though armed with the beta!

[Andy B]

I agree, I had to do the whole thing, but if the high sidepulls start makes the problem climbable for more than a few days a year then it makes sense as the standard start.
I’ve sent you my beta, hope it’s helpful.

The rocky hole at the start used to be worse but I filled it with stones from a handy rockfall 😁.