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Bouldering in (North) Pembrokeshire (Read 3038 times)

sdm

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Bouldering in (North) Pembrokeshire
June 29, 2021, 08:21:25 pm
I'm going to be spending a long weekend in Pembrokeshire with family this weekend, staying near Newport on the North coast.

Any suggestions for venues that are worth a visit for a lone boulderer? I'll arrive ahead of everyone else so should have a morning free for some bouldering and may find time for another hit for a few hours. Bonus points for shortish walk ins and flat landings.

Any suggestions of must do boulders up to 7Cish (that are doable without a spotter) or other useful beta will also be gratefully received.

I've never bouldered in Pembrokeshire before, the only place on my radar is Preseli. Is there any coastal bouldering that is worth going to?

teestub

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Preseli and Mynydd Dinas https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/mynydd_dinas_pembrokeshire-8776 (bit closer to Newport but neither are far) are both great, the rock (microgabbro) really is top notch, like an igneous grit stone. There's not a huge amount at either venue. Sam's arete at Dinas is great, didn't check out a lot at Preseli as got stuck into trying The Nowist.

The only beach spot I went to was Newgale, Dolph's boulder was fun, and there's a sandy beach bit literally right in front of the boulder so it's a good family combo spot.


sxrxg

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Just a quick note that there is plenty of other bits and bobs about on the Preseli hills that are not listed on the swbg site so keep your eyes open... I know Pete that is credited on the swbg site and some of the other blocks he has shown me around i would say have even better climbing than those listed, for example the bloc in the below photo goes at about 7b from a sit in the niche and gives some fun 3D climbing to a hard mantle top out.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/photos/share/BDczZa8JEl6SWHVQS23aXPraZg7ybS8PjKQGp5IzVFk

Back in 2017 before the place got popular Pete did add a few videos to Youtube, these can be found at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMIUVK1Rp2hzXsom-azaLOA/videos

Wherever you go can you please also try and brush chalk off the boulders. The area is a site of special scientific interest and whilst low key climbing seems to be tolerated there is a concern that with it getting more popular it has the potential to become an issue.
« Last Edit: June 30, 2021, 11:39:42 am by sxrxg »

Will Hunt

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I've done a little bouldering at Marloes Sands (described in the CC North Pembroke guide - the info in the link Chris provided isn't very good for Marloes). There's some scattered info and photos on UKC which you can probably piece together into a day's exploring.
Also this - the Western Wall of the Big Boulder
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/174111773

But all that is about an hour's drive from where you're staying. Newgale is closer - there's some stuff to do there. Mike Adams' problems are worth seeking out.

If you've a spotter, the DWS at Abercastle harbour looks lowball, especially on a high tide, and a bit of a laugh with an easy haul out. That's covered in the CC North Pembs guide and would probably make a nice evening session.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDwHSHGDg9A/

teestub

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Wherever you go can you please also try and brush chalk off the boulders. The area is a site of special scientific interest and whilst low key climbing seems to be tolerated there is a concern that with it getting more popular it has the potential to become an issue.

Brushing off chalk should be everyone’s default wherever they are bouldering, but definitely good to give a reminder.

The SSSI status itself is not necessarily an indication as to whether climbing would be tolerated or not (Almscliff is a SSSI for example), but I was interested to read in the SAC plan that there are rare lichens on the tors, and preventing damage to these is mentioned specifically https://naturalresources.wales/media/673203/Preseli%20SAC%20management%20plan.pdf
As the area is access land, and there’s a lot of rock that’s not going to get climbed on, I’m not sure access climbing could be restricted in this basis? But obviously this shouldn’t stop people from reducing their impact as much as possible and leaving as little trace of their activities as possible.

The pagan history of the area is strong in those hills, there was what appeared to be a rock altar with some offerings on it not far from one of the boulders at Preseli.

sxrxg

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This report https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lXfs6nMww4nuUIOX65a8NCp2g1U9NTCw/view?usp=drivesdk gives an indication that those assessing the area are aware that climbing takes place and it doesn't seem that they are looking to restrict however it does state in the recreational activities section that large increases in the number of users could cause localised disturbance or erosion scars. When an area is under assessment such as this I think it is always worth taking an extra bit of care to stick to best practice as I am sure we all sometimes get a bit lazy when removing chalk (I know I do sometimes...)

sxrxg

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This link should hopefully now work and the document should be public access...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lXfs6nMww4nuUIOX65a8NCp2g1U9NTCw/view?usp=drivesdk

sdm

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Link works thanks sxrxg.

Thanks everyone for all the info, links, and videos. Plenty of options so should be able to find things that fit in with the rest of the itinerary. I'd seen the swbg page before but the others were all new to me. I have the CC guide but hadn't actually checked it. I see Mynydd Dinas is in Boulder Britain too.

The weather doesn't look great this weekend. Lots of showers with some of them looking heavy. Preseli and Mynydd Dinas look exposed so hopefully there will be things dry in between the showers and fingers crossed for a quick hit on a beach day with the little ones.

Is there a rainproof option anywhere in case the weather gets worse?

SA Chris

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I remember playing about in a cave / arch on the far side of Broadhaven Beach, but it was about 20 years ago, can't remember if it was any good or not, probably not worth the travel though.

Surf forecast looks good mind...

teestub

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Is there a rainproof option anywhere in case the weather gets worse?

The caves at the North end of Newgale Beach will be shower proof, but assume will seep after heavy rain

sdm

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Thanks for all the info.

I ended up staying in the area for the week and working from my home from home. Managed to get in a couple of sessions at Mynydd Dinas and a quick hour's hit to Dolph's Boulder at Newgale in between building sandcastles and playing in rockpools.

The variations of Sam's arete (6C) at Mynydd Dinas were fantastic although very airy on my own: the 6C part at the top felt like the crux of Bullet Dodger (7C+) to me! Enjoyed padding my way up Pete's Slab (6A) too. Couldn't even pull off the ground on Freddie's Nightmare (6B), still need to learn to jam.

Great views across the moor to the hills and all along the coast. The rock was super grippy, even on a sunny day in July, although a bit scrittly in places. Not a tickmark to be seen anywhere (barely any chalk at all) and just a few ponies and sheep to keep you company. I actually got to see the views for the second session. For the first session, low clouds came in so you couldn't even see the main crag from Carn Enoch!

Dolph's Boulder was good for a quick play, tide times meant the caves weren't an option. Could just about make it to Dolph's from the beach a few minutes after high tide without getting my feet wet. The pads didn't fit through the higher gap in the cave on the approach so I had to time my dash between waves through the lower exit. Don't know if this is always an option or if it sometimes gets completely cut off. It looked like there had once been a path down from the National Trust car park directly above Dolph's but that this has been a victim to the erosion so I think the only approach now is along the beach?

I have family who have moved to the area so I'll be back again at some point to check out the other recommendations.

Will Hunt

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It looked like there had once been a path down from the National Trust car park directly above Dolph's but that this has been a victim to the erosion so I think the only approach now is along the beach?

Do not approach direct. Do not even think about it.

M - Very quick session at the southern end of Newgale Beach where Mike Adams has done some problems. Did Brute Arete (about Yorkshire 6C or 6C+ in the local currency) and a few others. Had a call from the rest of the family that they were ready to leave. I'd parked in the parking directly above the boulder and was in a hurry and the incoming tide made it look like I couldn't take the normal route back without getting wet feet, so made the unbelievably stupid decision that the direct walk back didn't look so bad. The steep, collapsing shale bank was childs play, but irreversable. The 100m of deep, very spiky, very impenetrable gorse and bramble (not visible from the beach) was not childs play. I was wearing shorts. Fortunately I had a fleece top with me. After a few meters of painful progress I shoved my legs down the arm holes and used them as trousers which helped a bit. The crux was descending into a crevasse thing which was also filled with this super-gorse and then having to climb out which required using my hands to mantel out. Fortunately I had a pair of flip flops so used them on my hands. Arrived at the path a prickled, bleeding shell of a man.

sdm

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I'm glad I wasn't tempted to try it then!

teestub

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Glad you enjoyed your time there, that rock in the tors is so good! I remember feeling the same about that arête after all the ‘hard’ climbing was done! If you’re knocking of the high 7’s then you should deffo check out Nowist at Preseli next visit, I thought that was great.

We approached Dolph’s boulder from the Maidenhall car park Maidenhall, National Trust Car Park
https://goo.gl/maps/iZh2kZneF7MthbLT8  There was an obvious way down to shore level and then a boulder hop/beach walk north. We had good tides though so prob easier due to that.

sdm

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The Nowist looks great, it was on my list of things to try while I was there but the weather didn't play ball when I had a window of opportunity for an evening there. Definitely one to try next time.

 

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