On the inspiration front, I find Steve Mac's diary of attempts on Rainman very good for the psyche http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articles/131-rainman-sagaI find it incredible that the first time he had the "it's on!" moment after 120 sessions, and the continuous dedication to refining beta is remarkable.
Yes, all true. Basically the point I'm trying to make is that for all the people who climb on such rock colours /styles frequently, onsighting is harder and therefore the gap between their onsight grade and siege grade is likely to be larger. They aren't necessarily shit at that subdiscipline I don't think.
My on-sight grade on Euro-lime (across many areas - El Chorro, Siurana, Ariege, Chullilia, St Leger, Costa Blanca, Leonidio etc.) has always been 2-3 grades higher than in the UK.
In my experience, I think it's important to really siege something for a short window with zero expectations of redpoint. Like 5-7 sessions over a 2-3 week window. This should separate the finicky moves that you just need to learn a little from the actual crux moves. It'll also give you a real idea of how it feels to start linking sections. To start to learn where you'll find the true redpoint crux. After that initial siege, step back and reassess. What will you actually need to get it done, or at least to connect more dots and make progress? Step away from it and spend a dedicated time for another 2-3 weeks doing work to improve that and then come back.
having a child helped me find this sweet spot.