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Power Club 588 14-20 June (Read 4920 times)

IanP

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#25 Re: Power Club 588 14-20 June
June 22, 2021, 06:51:47 pm
I believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.

TPM is hard than original as the start is hard and more pumpy. 7bish? Crux is quite reachy.

I thought the TPM to the rest(ish) below the crux section was 7b+ or even 7c.  Did the crux via holds on the right (not sure if this is how you did it originally?), was a bit reachy I thought but excellent set of moves on nice holds, and I do like a reach.  Really good route I thought with interesting and sustained climbing on pleasent holds for the grade and the odd rattley hold on the lower section didn't detract from the quality. 

Not really qualified to comment on grade but I was climbing well for me when I did it - thought it was signicantly harder than Defcon (whatever grade that is) which I did a few weeks later.

Adam Lincoln

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#26 Re: Power Club 588 14-20 June
June 22, 2021, 07:32:03 pm
I believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.

TPM is hard than original as the start is hard and more pumpy. 7bish? Crux is quite reachy.

I thought the TPM to the rest(ish) below the crux section was 7b+ or even 7c.  Did the crux via holds on the right (not sure if this is how you did it originally?), was a bit reachy I thought but excellent set of moves on nice holds, and I do like a reach.  Really good route I thought with interesting and sustained climbing on pleasent holds for the grade and the odd rattley hold on the lower section didn't detract from the quality. 

Not really qualified to comment on grade but I was climbing well for me when I did it - thought it was signicantly harder than Defcon (whatever grade that is) which I did a few weeks later.

I gave it 8a but most people who have been on it think its harder than original. Not sure it warranted 8a+ though.

Glad you enjoyed.

Andy F

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#27 Re: Power Club 588 14-20 June
June 22, 2021, 09:55:25 pm
I believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.

TPM is hard than original as the start is hard and more pumpy. 7bish? Crux is quite reachy.

I thought the TPM to the rest(ish) below the crux section was 7b+ or even 7c.  Did the crux via holds on the right (not sure if this is how you did it originally?), was a bit reachy I thought but excellent set of moves on nice holds, and I do like a reach.  Really good route I thought with interesting and sustained climbing on pleasent holds for the grade and the odd rattley hold on the lower section didn't detract from the quality. 

Not really qualified to comment on grade but I was climbing well for me when I did it - thought it was signicantly harder than Defcon (whatever grade that is) which I did a few weeks later.

I gave it 8a but most people who have been on it think its harder than original. Not sure it warranted 8a+ though.

Glad you enjoyed.
I need to go back and finish TPM, but it didn't feel 8a+. Quality climbing and positions, an underrated gem fosho.

Stabbsy

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#28 Re: Power Club 588 14-20 June
June 23, 2021, 03:04:15 pm
I need to go back and finish TPM, but it didn't feel 8a+. Quality climbing and positions, an underrated gem fosho.

So 7b+ then Andy?


trad_grade_safe by pratt2005, on Flickr

Andy F

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#29 Re: Power Club 588 14-20 June
June 23, 2021, 03:42:07 pm
I need to go back and finish TPM, but it didn't feel 8a+. Quality climbing and positions, an underrated gem fosho.

So 7b+ then Andy?


trad_grade_safe by pratt2005, on Flickr
Yeah, pretty much  :lol:

 

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